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Detailing chat

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  • Registered Users Posts: 9,983 ✭✭✭cena




  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Bpmull wrote: »
    I have mastered using autoglym srp however I'm struggling with the EGP how much should I put on and how long do I leave it before buffing it I have heard people saying an hour but surly that's way too long and would damage the paint.

    It has to be put on as thinly as possible - I find its best if its used via a sprayer, mist onto the panel and work in with a microfiber applicator. Lashing it on doesnt work well.

    About 30mins is enough if its not humid.


  • Registered Users Posts: 314 ✭✭Darraghmh91.


    With EGP I put it on fairly thin but I did leave the product set for an hour and thought it was perfect
    If you read the instructions you will see how much to put on and it will state between 30 to 60 minutes
    I find that after using "proper" polish that srp is pure crap man it's rocks in a bottle and never thought it till I got good chemical guys polish off curran along with an orange hex logic pad and got WAY WAY better results and found the chemical guys was so much easier to apply and buff off with little dust where SRP I found my cloths being clogged and even tho I was putting it on very thin and didn't let it dry for too long
    Id never ever go near auto glym again it's not worth the funds id rather pay the extra money on good polish the results are amazing
    Instead of the EGP I just wax the car after polishing and my wax is colllinite845


  • Registered Users Posts: 893 ✭✭✭mhackett102


    Was just on the CarPro website and was about to buy an iron remover (Iron X) & a tar remover (Tar X)
    But when I was about to check out, this came up for me.
    Has anyone ever used it? Or think it would be as good as the two?

    Im removing tar from the body of the car, and removing iron from the alloys.


  • Registered Users Posts: 314 ✭✭Darraghmh91.


    Lookin to really get a good lot of car detailing products and stuff for 2015 so lookin for Recommendations on what makes and rough prices on what to pay for a good quality one .. Not buying something at cheap budget .. If I'm gonna buy it I wanna buy a good one that will do a great job with good durability so lookin dorvthe following

    Steam cleaner (will this remove fungal bud up in a car i have sitting up for about 4 months)
    Wet vac
    Kink free hose
    Pressure washer
    Glass polish
    I have a hex logic orange hand pad but am I better off morning down to a white or black pad after my first coat of polish and will I use the same polish for each cost (chemical guys p40 polish)
    I have a chemical guys ufo pad for my wax


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,845 ✭✭✭Noccy_Mondy


    Wet vac has gotta be the george numatic fella. Green lad with the face on him.

    Pressure washer, nilfisk c120.5 or point something. I have one and can't fault it!


  • Registered Users Posts: 314 ✭✭Darraghmh91.


    What kinda price is on these and funny you should say that wet vac cause I was only lookin at it yesterday online as Iv heard its a pretty good one

    Thanks man


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,845 ✭✭✭Noccy_Mondy


    Nearly postive the george is at least 230 anyway.

    I got m6 nilfisk in argos last year reduced to 125.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    But when I was about to check out, this came up for me.
    Has anyone ever used it? Or think it would be as good as the two?

    I will be a grand product if you have done both processes recently and the paint/wheels arent heavily contaminated.

    The two separate products will do a far better job.


  • Registered Users Posts: 893 ✭✭✭mhackett102


    Curran wrote: »
    I will be a grand product if you have done both processes recently and the paint/wheels arent heavily contaminated.

    The two separate products will do a far better job.

    I might go for the two seperate products, or check does my local place have anything equivelant to it..

    The car has quiet a bit of tar on the body, but only a small bit of iron on the alloys..
    The jeep is the complete opposite, they may aswell be black with the amount of iron on them!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    You dont always see the iron contamination - when its very bad, your wheels will show signs of it. But more often than not, they'll have some sort of contamination; as will your paintwork.


  • Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    The quote at the bottom is quite relevant to those in Detailing! :)

    av216g.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,756 ✭✭✭ianobrien


    Bpmull wrote: »
    I have mastered using autoglym srp however I'm struggling with the EGP how much should I put on and how long do I leave it before buffing it I have heard people saying an hour but surly that's way too long and would damage the paint.

    I've used Autoglym SRP and always got reasonable results. I put small amounts, adjust the pressure where needed and never had problems with residue. I sealed with Autoglym EGP and put on two thin layers. I left it for about an hour on one car as it was misting when applied (I had the car under cover). It was all hand done but was buffed with a lambswool mit on a cheapo Lidl polisher.

    I did it to my and Da's car last September and have used Autoglym Rapid Detailer since. You can see the results in my last posts on the "Today I did some detailing" thread.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,756 ✭✭✭ianobrien


    Lads, what snowfoam would you recommend. I tried the Autoglym Pressure Washer but it wasn't great. It was quite watery, even with the lance turned up as much as possible and didn't loosen much. (Its bloody brilliant on house windows and conservatories).

    I have a proper adjustable lance so I'm looking for recommendations for snowfoam. The requirements are for one with good staying power, ability to loosen dirt, suitable for modern cars, vintage car with old paint and a vinyl roof and motorhome bodies. The vintage car and Motorhome body comparability isn't too high as we have "alternative" methods for them (two bucket method mainly)


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    ianobrien wrote: »
    Lads, what snowfoam would you recommend. I tried the Autoglym Pressure Washer but it wasn't great. It was quite watery, even with the lance turned up as much as possible and didn't loosen much. (Its bloody brilliant on house windows and conservatories).

    I have a proper adjustable lance so I'm looking for recommendations for snowfoam. The requirements are for one with good staying power, ability to loosen dirt, suitable for modern cars, vintage car with old paint and a vinyl roof and motorhome bodies. The vintage car and Motorhome body comparability isn't too high as we have "alternative" methods for them (two bucket method mainly)


    I bought 50cal snowfoam off detailing shed just waiting on lance but that snowfoam is meant to be great.

    I am getting excited about using it:pac::pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,442 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    When it comes to the DA I'm completely a noob. Where do I start. I'm thinking the process would be

    -Strip all existing protection
    -Wash
    -Polish with DA
    -Seal
    Etc
    Etc

    So, best way to strip? Which polish(es)?

    Recommend a DA and what accessories do I need?

    Any other guidance would be appreciated for a novice. I have a panel to practice on first


  • Registered Users Posts: 314 ✭✭Darraghmh91.


    Wash wheels
    Wash car
    Dry
    De tar
    De iron
    Rinse
    Claybar
    Rinse
    Dry
    Machine polish maybe use orange and blue pad
    Buff off polish
    Wax it
    Buff off wax

    Should be good then


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,442 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Wash wheels
    Wash car
    Dry
    De tar
    De iron
    Rinse
    Claybar
    Rinse
    Dry
    Machine polish maybe use orange and blue pad
    Buff off polish
    Wax it
    Buff off wax

    Should be good then
    Thanks. I think I'm good on what to do for prep. I've deterred, de ironed, clay barred the car last week but I will do each again before I start. Would that be enough in terms of stripping the current protection?
    The paint is very smooth now to the touch but the swirls are bothering me

    Eager to try a different wax too, used the AG HD wax which is very good and ill be giving a coat of glossworx glaze too, I do like glazes. Any recommendations on a wax to try.

    It's a jazz blue VW btw


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Thanks. I think I'm good on what to do for prep. I've deterred, de ironed, clay barred the car last week but I will do each again before I start. Would that be enough in terms of stripping the current protection?
    The paint is very smooth now to the touch but the swirls are bothering me

    You will need to use the likes of all purpose cleaner(household) and or washing up liquid.

    This will strip any protection left.


  • Registered Users Posts: 314 ✭✭Darraghmh91.


    Don't clay your car again that is good now for another 6 months or so

    Iv heard great things about meguires m105 and m 205 with Orange and White pads and maybe a blue or black to finish it

    I thought de tar and iron will remove all old polidh but curran will quote you on that

    I use colllinite845 wax and love the stuff it's only like 30 quid and gives great results and protection for a long time Detailing shed have it in stock

    Do you do the 2bm to wash your car and use a proper wash mitt compared to a sponge as the sponge will cause swirls along with cheap MF cloths


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Eager to try a different wax too, used the AG HD wax which is very good and ill be giving a coat of glossworx glaze too, I do like glazes. Any recommendations on a wax to try.

    It's a jazz blue VW btw

    AG HD Wax is one of the good AG products; if made by another manufacturer, it would probably be more expensive.

    If you are intent on stripping away the fairly fresh wax, you will need to use strong All Purpose Cleaner as it wont have begun to deteriorate and will need something strong to lift it...even a bit of tar remover will do the job, and a light wash down with APC.

    Glazes will help the swirl situation, but as ever, only a temporary solution.

    Chemical Guys Blacklight and Chemical Guys Pete's53 would be a very nice combo - both are designed to look best on darker colours!


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    How often a car needs to be clayed depends on the kind of roads it's on every day. A car on country roads that gets filthy every week will need to be clayed more often that a car on good roads over the same period.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    But, but, but....what if the car never moves, is parked up for the 4 weeks, and for 1 week of amazing sunshine (that we sometimes get) and is parked under a tree, not far from BBQ's and near a train station!! :P


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,442 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Don't clay your car again that is good now for another 6 months or so

    Iv heard great things about meguires m105 and m 205 with Orange and White pads and maybe a blue or black to finish it

    I thought de tar and iron will remove all old polidh but curran will quote you on that

    I use colllinite845 wax and love the stuff it's only like 30 quid and gives great results and protection for a long time Detailing shed have it in stock

    Do you do the 2bm to wash your car and use a proper wash mitt compared to a sponge as the sponge will cause swirls along with cheap MF cloths

    Ya 2bm with decent mitt. Unfortunately the previous owner used to wash it with rocks and nails
    Curran wrote: »
    AG HD Wax is one of the good AG products; if made by another manufacturer, it would probably be more expensive.

    If you are intent on stripping away the fairly fresh wax, you will need to use strong All Purpose Cleaner as it wont have begun to deteriorate and will need something strong to lift it...even a bit of tar remover will do the job, and a light wash down with APC.

    Glazes will help the swirl situation, but as ever, only a temporary solution.

    Chemical Guys Blacklight and Chemical Guys Pete's53 would be a very nice combo - both are designed to look best on darker colours!

    I'm going to buy a DA in the next couple of days. Might get a bottle of black light and pass the glossworx on to one of the lads :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,442 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Curran wrote: »
    But, but, but....what if the car never moves, is parked up for the 4 weeks, and for 1 week of amazing sunshine (that we sometimes get) and is parked under a tree, not far from BBQ's and near a train station!! :P

    Ah then you just need to burn it and claim the insurance.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,077 ✭✭✭markc1184


    Can someone recommend a good wax for a black car with a gold metallic fleck through it. Something to really make the gold pop. I have used AutoGlym HD upto now but that's running low and fancy a change.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,442 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    markc1184 wrote: »
    Can someone recommend a good wax for a black car with a gold metallic fleck through it. Something to really make the gold pop. I have used AutoGlym HD upto now but that's running low and fancy a change.

    I'm in the same boat regarding the HD wax but from asking about it really seems like on eof the better waxes in the price range.

    I've been recommended to try Chemical Guys Pete's53 which is supposed to be good on darker cars. I'll be giving it a Blacklight glaze beforehand too


  • Registered Users Posts: 314 ✭✭Darraghmh91.


    Iv been also lookin up another wax .. Recently bought collinite845 but I'd like something else to have and I have my head set on the chemical guys jet seal then follow it up with chemical guys butter wet wax


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Iv been also lookin up another wax .. Recently bought collinite845 but I'd like something else to have and I have my head set on the chemical guys jet seal then follow it up with chemical guys butter wet wax

    Did you look up tips on how to apply.

    Always before applying get the wax warm/hot by placing in bucket of water as it will be so much easier to apply.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,442 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    I mentioned yesterday I wasn't 100% happy with the car but today in the sunshine and parked next to my neighbours car which was 'valeted' this morning it looks unreal. It has a wet look which I love.
    My other neighbour asked to borrow my power hose, she's out there now cleaning the car with fairy and one of those sponges with the green scourer thing on them... nearly new saab


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