Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.
https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
Today I did something to my car (volume 2)
Options
Comments
-
-
-
-
Interslice wrote: »Good work there! Should run better with a blanking plate as you can adjust the af ratio yourself. Stop it blocking up again most importantly.
FMIC and a decat next if it were me.
The intercooler on it is fairly big as is to be fair, and I dont think the benefits of a front mount would really be seen on this engine, I'd like to put a short side exit on it alright, might have a chat with my pipe-fabbing friend
Downside to the increased power is I've now got a bit of clutch slip at full bore, so that's gotta be the next task, I'm looking forward to wrestling with the 250kg gearbox on my first ever clutch change :pac:0 -
-
Advertisement
-
Herself's car popped up with an engine malfunction the other day while she was driving and down on power... So I ran the code reader and it gave fault code P010F.
So inspected engine bay and found a crack in the inter-cooler pipe, taped up as best I could while I waited for the replacement to arrive.. below are a few pics of install of new part.
0 -
-
So today this happened, i done my first headgasket!
Most of this was done with 10/12 and 17 sockets and various extensions
Lettuce start!
Disconnect the battery on the negative side
Take off the bonnet cos its just gona be in the way
Drain the oil and coolant, take off the lower rad hose for the coolant, oil is a 17 mm nut
Bonnet off!
Then go for the air box and resonator which gives you loads of room and disconnect this pipe from it
Disconnect these two lads next, along with your plug leads and any other bits around the distributor
Off with your heat shield, drown the manifold nuts in wd40 or similar and carry on
Take the drivers side headlight off, three screws are hidden behind the trim, so with a phillips head i took that off
un do all the light connections and take the headlight out, come back to your exhaust manifold and get those nuts off without snapping them! Take off your coolant bottle, this sits in a bracket and just comes out, undo the pipes, next take off your distributor, draw a line on it so you can line it up again
Undo the nuts and pull it out! put it aside for safe keeping, drop down the exhaust manifold and stick the nuts back on the studs so you wont loose them, take off the rocker cover
At this point jack up the car and take off the drivers wheel, its time to do the timing belt! to get the belt theres a cover on it and a bracket going fromt he front of the engine to the rear at the alternator, this is the hardest part, due to 0 space, so this is the fun part, an impact gun is verrrry useful here, otherwise you need to lock the crank with a prybar through a hole in the block beside the flexi in the exhaust, anyways, take off the top mount
There's one nut thats a bit awkward to get to on the underside of the mount so attack this from the wheel well
And the first part of the awkward bracket
At this stage disconnect the fuel injectors and fuel lines, then say hello to half an hour or swearing and cursing, the rear bracket is connected to the alternator and the rear of the engine. A 12mm spanner is your friend here, anyway, the alternator bracket requires some an engineering approach, get a large spanner and fix it to the ratchet and that should work
Then take off the alternator and power steering belts, both the laternator and power steering pump need to be undone slightly and moved to get the belts off, this give you a clear whack at the rear bracket bolts, take the crank pulley off and set the crank to top dead centre, there's little triangles that line up, its fairly simple to do!
The rear bracket should be either gone or able to be moved, giving you access to the lower timing cover, undo that and undo the tensioner, 12mm nut in the middle and its secured by a spring, so untension it just push it towards the front of the car, slip the belt off and take the spring off its clip
Then undo your headbolts! six in total! And don't forget your throttle cable!
Next post ahoy!0 -
So once everything is disconnected, Off with its head!! :pac:
Headgasket wasnt too pleasant to look at either
So the head is being sent off for skimming and pressure testing, obviously it needs to be stripped of its remaining parts, fortunately 90% of this is the inttake manifold as everything is built around it, so 6 nuts and off it comes!
When taking off the cam pulley, theres a little slot to have it correctly in position, which is handy!
And your left with this!
So i cant do much till the head comes back and the parts come in but thats the general jist! car currently looks like this!
0 -
-
Advertisement
-
-
-
-
The intercooler on it is fairly big as is to be fair, and I dont think the benefits of a front mount would really be seen on this engine, I'd like to put a short side exit on it alright, might have a chat with my pipe-fabbing friend
Downside to the increased power is I've now got a bit of clutch slip at full bore, so that's gotta be the next task, I'm looking forward to wrestling with the 250kg gearbox on my first ever clutch change :pac:
Feck thats heavy. Hope the clearance is good! Only took the box out of the asti last night. Weighs about 40 at most. Handy enough.0 -
few little jobs around the celica today, in between the showers
the wiper arms were very pale and chalky so i whipped them off and gave them a fresh coat of matte black. I also replaced the number plates which were gone fairly yellow, this really freshened up the car imo
weathered old arm:
newly painted arms:
old vs. new plates:
fresh front end:
0 -
-
-
-
-
-
Advertisement
-
-
-
-
-
-
Testing custom 5 metre long wires and plugs just made up by me for BMW E39, E38, Range Rover, E46, E53, E83 in order to install 2014-2015 BMW iDrive NBT in the trunk. All good. Steering wheel buttons, OBC etc working and all. Fully functional F series iDrive for the old E series chassis :-)
0 -
-
-
-
Advertisement
-
Advertisement