Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

toastedpickles

Cheensbo wrote: »

Finished off the mother's c4's nct jobs today,

Changed a few bulbs,
Fit new track rod end
Tracked it. - used a relations old school tracking kit - mirrors and stuff. Was interesting to do, and a piece of cake.



Also went at the pajero, freed the slider bolts on the caliper, took it off, took off the disc and tightened the handbrake mechanism (drum type) all that's left now is to get the fcukin piston moving, it comes out but by-jaysus it doesn't want to go back in :pac: need g-clamps.

Bitta wd40 would set that straight!

Cheensbo

toastedpickles wrote: »

Bitta wd40 would set that straight!

Would wd not eat away at the rubber seal around the piston though??

Cheensbo

Cheensbo wrote: »

Would wd not eat away at the rubber seal around the piston though??

Bit of copper grease?

toastedpickles

Cheensbo wrote: »

Would wd not eat away at the rubber seal around the piston though??

Snotaul Goodman wrote: »

Bit of copper grease?

Copper would eat away at the rubber, or so ive been told, any siezed calipers Ive come across I've used wd40 and the people are still here!

Cheensbo

toastedpickles wrote: »

Copper would eat away at the rubber, or so ive been told, any siezed calipers Ive come across I've used wd40 and the people are still here!

Ive often been told to put neither on them but don't know how important it is, red high temp grease is whats recommended, but I aint got any

It's proper fcuked anyway, after breaking the g-clamp trying to force it back in, lost cause. Waiting on a call back from whelans in laois to see if they have a good one for me.

Hal1

Well forcing a calliper piston back in without opening the bleed valve can be a bad thing. As it can damage the master cylinder. Fluid isn't meant to travel back up to there only air when bleeding.

If the calliper is well and truly seized then no amount of fanessing will send it back in. It will need to be refurbed or replaced.

Cheensbo

Hal1 wrote: »

Well forcing a calliper piston back in without opening the bleed valve can be a bad thing. As it can damage the master cylinder. Fluid isn't meant to travel back up to there only air when bleeding.

Yea it's been open when required, I'd imagine its quite difficult to push one back without it open... its about the only thing that wasn't siezed on the whole vehicle :pac:

Thing is, the piston moves, it goes out to full extent, but only goes back about half way.

Funny thing about it all though, both pads are fine, fcuk all wear on either side

Hal1

I wonder if it's seized at all then. As there should be evidence if it's sticking like a grinding or braking imbalance (a pull) under braking. I would bleed the brakes to make sure there's no trapped air in the system.

Cheensbo

Hal1 wrote: »

I wonder if it's seized at all then. As there should be evidence if it's sticking like a grinding or braking imbalance (a pull) under braking. I would bleed the brakes to make sure there's no trapped air in the system.

It barely allows the wheel to turn, and when it does, it gets ridiculously hot in a very short time.

Annoyingly it's binding a hell of a lot more now than it did before I got my hands on it..

Had only myself at it today, there'll be 2 of us at it friday so we'll give it a good bleed, think ive a few bottles of fluid there so might give it a replenish while I'm at it.

Interslice

Sound like the piston is moving ok until the dirty outer part hits the seal. Have a look at the second pic below. You could go and get a cheap one from a breakers and refurb your own one.

Interslice

Some pics of the mirage rear calipers being serviced. Sent them off to a lad of irishmoc to do them. Bit of a longwinded job witout the right tools. Takes alot of patience. A dremel and compressed air make it handy enough.

nd

I've never tried refurb one myself but this vid. doesn't make it look too hard (well, getting the piston out anyway).

jump to about 2.45.

joujoujou

There's easier way to take piston off, very simple, but hard to explain though.

Will make a video soon to show how. No tools required.

Speaking about pushing pistons back (on brake pads changeover) - some cars require special tools to push them in and screw-in simultaneously.

Interslice

nd wrote: »

I've never tried refurb one myself but this vid. doesn't make it look too hard (well, getting the piston out anyway).

jump to about 2.45.

Getting piston in and out is handy. Its cleaning the slot where the square seal sits that takes ages. Dirt gets embedded behind it. I was using a piece of green pot scrubber cut into strips and a drop of diesel though. The piston has to be brought back to a mirror finish too, or replaced.

Cheensbo

Ended up picking up a 2nd hand caliper today, whacked it on, changed fluid & bled it all round, no pics unfortunately it's too cold & my phone was dead.

Gonna have a go of refurbishing the old one just for the craic. Thanks for the advice etc folks

nd

joujoujou wrote: »

There's easier way to take piston off, very simple, but hard to explain though.

Will make a video soon to show how. No tools required.

Speaking about pushing pistons back (on brake pads changeover) - some cars require special tools to push them in and screw-in simultaneously.

I guess you could just remove the caliper off the disc and keep pressing the brake pedal until the piston pops out (keeping the fluid topped up).

joujoujou

nd wrote: »

I guess you could just remove the caliper off the disc and keep pressing the brake pedal until the piston pops out (keeping the fluid topped up).

Well, yes.

But it won't work if caliper is already disconnected - and that case scenario will be filmed.

Interslice

Cheensbo wrote: »

Gonna have a go of refurbishing the old one just for the craic. Thanks for the advice etc folks

Give me a shout if you get it cleaned up and want a loan of a wind back tool. You have to push the piston back into the seal really square on or it just gets stuck.

bennyx_o

Test fitted new wheels to the Lupo







Rear pokes a little too much I think, but should be easily solved

Hal1

They will looks nice once on there. Is this the look you're after?

bennyx_o

Somewhat, yea. I don't want to run massively stretched tyres, but I think some stretch will be needed. But hopefully it'll look good when it's all sitting right

Cheensbo

Today I decided to change the diff oil in the pajero, with castrol axle z lsd oil, first you open the filler plug, then the drain plug, taking care to mind the copper washers & they should be replaced with new ones:


The magnetic drain plug had been doing its work (probably the same oil for the last 23 years, it was fcuking manky & stinking. :rolleyes: Threaded the plug in and out about 10 times and every time it kept bringing out more crap. Flushed about 500ml through the diff to try bring out as much as possible. Ideally I should change it again in a few 000 kms... we'll see :pac:



It was a bit of a pain in the arse to get the new oil in as the panhard rod gets in the way of pouring it in, tried using different funnels & hoses etc but in the end just suspended the bottles upside down and let it slowly drip in, took a while.
The aftermath:


Very surprised the diff actually still works after having that sh1te in it, feels a little smoother now on slow hard turns, and on the loose stuff it seems to engage a little smoother now than before

Special Circumstances

In the past I've transferred the fluid to a "squirt bottle" with a nozzle that comes up then out at a right angle. Squeeze the bottle and it goes in diff with no mess. All well and good when the bottles were hanging around at work but not much good to Joe soap I suppose!

Mackas_view

Hi I really need to know if I'm being ripped off here I just got the brake pipes on my vw Passat b5.5 model 130bhp changed. The car failed the test because the brake pipes were pitted. I was told that all brake pipes in the rear on both sides were completely replaced today with copper pipe and that it would never have to be done again,
The cost was 250 euro including labour is this very expensive or how much would the parts themselves work out at?

mayota

Mackas_view wrote: »

Hi I really need to know if I'm being ripped off here I just got the brake pipes on my vw Passat b5.5 model 130bhp changed. The car failed the test because the brake pipes were pitted. I was told that all brake pipes in the rear on both sides were completely replaced today with copper pipe and that it would never have to be done again,
The cost was 250 euro including labour is this very expensive or how much would the parts themselves work out at?

Prob about €20 parts.

Mackas_view

mayota wrote: »

Prob about €20 parts.

Can you think of anything else to do with the brake pipes at the rear that coul bring it to even close to this price,?

Thanks for the reply

renofan

I have a '00 Audi A4 and ever since I got it in summer '13 I've been meaning to sort the woeful lights on it. When Audi brought out the facelift B5 they decided to be really smart and instead of carrying over the Xenons to go with the projector in the lights as they were on the RS version they just stuck a H7 bulb in it.

Anyways got myself a HID kit and fitted it today. The passenger side was straightforward enough, I was able to use the cover over the power-steering fluid reservoir as the mounting point for the ballast etc.





But on the driver's side I didn't have anything like that to use plus I'd very little space. So I took out the air box, cut off the fins and mounted it there.

You can see how tight I was for space below!









Everything back together



And a quick shot of the difference when I'd put the passenger side in!




Happy with them as they are a big improvement, I can see now :pac:

wotzgoingon

Mackas_view wrote: »

Hi I really need to know if I'm being ripped off here I just got the brake pipes on my vw Passat b5.5 model 130bhp changed. The car failed the test because the brake pipes were pitted. I was told that all brake pipes in the rear on both sides were completely replaced today with copper pipe and that it would never have to be done again,
The cost was 250 euro including labour is this very expensive or how much would the parts themselves work out at?

mayota wrote: »

Prob about €20 parts.

Mackas_view wrote: »

Can you think of anything else to do with the brake pipes at the rear that coul bring it to even close to this price,?

Thanks for the reply

I reckon it would be more than €20. They would have to buy some type of clips to hold the copper pipe down. Did they replace the rubber pipe that connects to the caliper? Maybe they replaced it with solid lines.

whizbang

Changing Rear Brake lines is a complete B*t*h of a job. I don't know how more difficult it is on a Passat, but I don't think you got done.

joujoujou

New project begins!

Thanks to Mr. dgt (a very, very BIG THANKS!), I got two full sets of leather seats. One of them will be put into my 'rolla.

Ms. jou's car's fully packed:





Door cards and seats off alfa:







Seats set off W210:





More than likely I'd go alfa seats.

It will take some time alright, as I have to do all the works outdoors, so strictly weather dependant. And it's quite cold at this time of the year, so will wait a while anyway.