Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

cletus

Pops_20 wrote: »

Today I changed the plugs and air filter in the Glanza. Info on the correct plug gap is hard to find on the net but I've them set to 0.8 mm and the car feels ok. The old ones that came out were set to 1.1 mm, so now I'm confused. Plug gapping is such a tedious business!

Also attempted to change the oil. I can't get access to the filter! Anyone have any ideas on this? The screw on band that works for most cars won't fit.

I thought the days of gapping your own plus were long gone

toastedpickles

I'd say you'd need a cup wrench like this guy

Galway K9

Got a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter to read error codes from on board computer....Cool app on phone .I like toys!

OldMrBrennan83

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corkgsxr

Pops_20 wrote: »

Today I changed the plugs and air filter in the Glanza. Info on the correct plug gap is hard to find on the net but I've them set to 0.8 mm and the car feels ok. The old ones that came out were set to 1.1 mm, so now I'm confused. Plug gapping is such a tedious business!

Also attempted to change the oil. I can't get access to the filter! Anyone have any ideas on this? The screw on band that works for most cars won't fit.

You can get a cup type to fit over it. I'd say any motor factors

cletus wrote: »

I thought the days of gapping your own plus were long gone

Iv never gapped any plugs. I don't think there's a need.

Pops_20

cletus wrote: »

I thought the days of gapping your own plus were long gone

That's what most people say. Then you check your plugs and the gap is often wrong, for me anyway. Unless my feeler gauge is wrong :P

keano25

Big screwdriver and hammer for the oil filter!

pablo128

If you were able to take that shield from around the filter you would have loads of room. Failing that, careful use of a 3 prong type of filter tool would get it.

Galway K9

Patww79 wrote: »

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Yerp!

joujoujou

corkgsxr wrote: »

[...]

Iv never gapped any plugs. I don't think there's a need.

^^ This. ^^

Pops_20 wrote: »

That's what most people say. Then you check your plugs and the gap is often wrong, for me anyway. Unless my feeler gauge is wrong :P

Quite often happens when a plug's ended it's lifetime or there's something wrong with the engine.

Speaking about gapping - there are some plugs you'd damage them rather than set a gap. Like this:



0.4mm thick electrode! :eek:

OldMrBrennan83

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Galway K9

Patww79 wrote: »

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I got the cheap chinese one, for 5.99 and i was using it today and works perfect and very accurate. Just look on ebay. OBD Bluetooth android.

I also got a free app on android called OBD Car doctor and works great too, obviously not as good as Torque but does the job.

OldMrBrennan83

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Special Circumstances

I've found Carista android app good when you just want to scan for faults and clear them. Torque on the same phone (htc desire) didn't want to connect to the dongle at all.

toastedpickles

Changed the rad on this other 9-5 im pulling together for another boardsie, this is halfways through, a new set of vac lines and a coolant bypass valve are yet to go into it

Cheensbo

Not mine,

Front right spring decided to give up on mother-goose's c4, 2 days before the nct..

Only noticed as she started to reverse out of the yard, would have been curtains for the tyre if she had been driving forwards!



Pain in the hoop to get at the top mount. All 14,16,18mm stuff on these, it's nice to use clean sockets & spanners every now and then :pac:


New spring on, was hard to get the tophat back on even with the clamps wound fully down, (fcukin hate spring clamps anyway)The drop link wasn't the best so slapped in a new one, test is tomorrow, hopefully nothing more will be needed.


Cost: €53 for spring, €10 for drop link.

Next job is to sort out a siezed caliper on the pajero, ignoring it hasn't worked, shouting at it didn't work, and spraying water at it just created a lot of steam. :pac:

Flood

Cheensbo wrote: »

Next job is to sort out a siezed caliper on the pajero, ignoring it hasn't worked, shouting at it didn't work, and spraying water at it just created a lot of steam. :pac:

Good possibility its caused by the rubber grommet on the bottom sliding bolt, take it off if present and throw it as far away as possible.

GvidoR

The Bora had 'issues' with the boot ever since I got it. The latch would work about 25% of the time, but would always open with the remote control button (aftermarket one) so I never looked into it, since I could always open it. On Monday, when I opened it, the motor made a slightly different noise than usual and the boot wouldn't open with the remote or the latch anymore (so I had to take out my gym bag and hockey stick through the back door).

Today I jumped in the back to have a look at it, through the back ofcourse.


Had to take off the carpet cover and then I was able to open it from inside.


I'm pretty sure someone has done something to it before, judging by that questionable tape and the fact that the key doesn't work in the lock.


I don't really know what's going on there, but I wiggled the wire and checked all the joints and then it magically opened with the remote too. It's not 100% sorted though.

On the bright side... weight reduction :pac:

Hal1

There is some build up of condensation on the inside of the boot or is that from rain? if it was condensation I would spray some wd40 on the lock.

GvidoR

That's condensation. You mean spray it in from the key hole?

Hal1

Well the locking mechanism part as moisture would be likely to get in there. It would cause rust eventually and a repeat of it not opening.

toastedpickles

By pass valve is done on the other saab, the previous owner made an arse of it and bypassed the bypass valve

Anyways, it's being picked up saturday, apart from a good clean and a few bulbs, its tight as a drum

Hal1

Top mount on OSF shock got changed as it was creaking and knocking like a mofo. It took me 3 hrs plus tae breaks as it was balltic. No pics as I just wanted to get it done. Test drive tomorrow...

Voodoomelon

Found the coolant leak on my 740 after 2 weeks of hunting and head scratching. Turns out it only leaks when the car is cold, not hot. It's gotten worse so it's now actually dripping from the car making it finally detectable.

It's the central coolant transfer pipe in the middle of the block, the worst leak of them all.

Fantastic news!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UoCED1jyfL4

Now the decision of whether to do the job myself or get someone else to do it.

toastedpickles

Do you Think you could do it yourself? Like would you have the time to?

Voodoomelon

It would be the biggest job i've done yet, but it seems quite straight forward. Most say it's a 5-6 hour job. Suppose it's down to cost versus headache; i'd also like to be able to say I managed it myself, but would need a solid day at it. Will get it priced tomorrow!

toastedpickles

Voodoomelon wrote: »

It would be the biggest job i've done yet, but it seems quite straight forward. Most say it's a 5-6 hour job. Suppose it's down to cost versus headache; i'd also like to be able to say I managed it myself, but would need a solid day at it. Will get it priced tomorrow!

Well if you think you'd be able to manage it, then by all means go for it id say!

Hal1

I test drove the car on saturday a vast improvement since changing the top mount bearing, but she still knocking about on uneven road. So I now need to replace the front arb bushings as that's the only other part that hasn't been changed on the front end.

advertsfox

Pushing aside the cost... feels good man!

Cheensbo

Finished off the mother's c4's nct jobs today,

Changed a few bulbs,
Fit new track rod end
Tracked it. - used a relations old school tracking kit - mirrors and stuff. Was interesting to do, and a piece of cake.



Also went at the pajero, freed the slider bolts on the caliper, took it off, took off the disc and tightened the handbrake mechanism (drum type) all that's left now is to get the fcukin piston moving, it comes out but by-jaysus it doesn't want to go back in :pac: need g-clamps.