STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

k123456 wrote: »

It will always open (when the stove is lit , approx 30 mins later, the heat builds up, and the zone opens) , the default zone, can be any zone, you prefer , when the plumber installs. Ours is the main living room, the norm according to plumber is HW zone

So a motorised valve opens then is that it?

Dtp1979 wrote: »

This default zone, is it always open or will it always open? As in is there a pump or valve on the default circuit?

It will always open (when the stove is lit , approx 30 mins later, the heat builds up, and the zone opens) , the default zone, can be any zone, you prefer , when the plumber installs. Ours is the main living room, the norm according to plumber is HW zone

k123456 wrote: »

One zone, the default will always open, once the stove heats up. The stove water heats, there is some kinda thermo on /off switch linked to the pipes
behind stove

This default zone, is it always open or will it always open? As in is there a pump or valve on the default circuit?

Dtp1979 wrote: »

What happens if the zones don't open ?

One zone, the default will always open, once the stove heats up. The stove water heats, there is some kinda thermo on /off switch linked to the pipes
behind stove

k123456 wrote: »

All set up by plumber, think the "systemlink" is the hub of the system

we have five zones, three would suffice , ie upstairs , downstairs and hw
winter : Stove used 95% of time, gas 5%
after 30 mins , the water jacket around the stoves heats up, and the default zone auto kicks in, our our case default is the living kitchen (stove Boru boiler stove carraig mor)

We can of course switch on the other zones, on, timer-activated or a boost (1hr, 2hr, 3 hr)

outside winter, gas boiler, connected to five zone, used for hw, can be timed, boost etc,

Re safety, once the stove heats up, the hot water, must go somewhere, that is the job of the default zone

When one zone heats up, another zone kicks in

What happens if the zones don't open ?

Caher123 wrote: »

Hi,

Just wondering how does the zoning with your stove work? Is it on an electronic controller or manual valves? Is there a safety override in case one zone over heats or is it not possible for all zones to be all off at the same time?

Also when you upgraded your plumbing was there much involved in setting up the zones?

Thanks

All set up by plumber, think the "systemlink" is the hub of the system

we have five zones, three would suffice , ie upstairs , downstairs and hw
winter : Stove used 95% of time, gas 5%
after 30 mins , the water jacket around the stoves heats up, and the default zone auto kicks in, our our case default is the living kitchen (stove Boru boiler stove carraig mor)

We can of course switch on the other zones, on, timer-activated or a boost (1hr, 2hr, 3 hr)

outside winter, gas boiler, connected to five zone, used for hw, can be timed, boost etc,

Re safety, once the stove heats up, the hot water, must go somewhere, that is the job of the default zone

When one zone heats up, another zone kicks in

rarnes1 wrote: »

How much is a zoned heating system as a matter of interest?

You have very few options zoning when it comes to solid fuel as there should always be an open circuit. You say you have a big system but 9 radiators on a system isn't big at all

Caher123

k123456 wrote: »

Difficult to give you a price, as as was part of plumbing upgrade
but we have 5 zones, all heated by the stove
most of the time, we only have 1 or 2 zone in use, so great energy saver

In practice, we fire up the stove, it heats one large room, approx 6 big rads there, and HW

on hour or so before hitting the hay, heats up a third zone, (50% of the bed rooms)

Hi,

Just wondering how does the zoning with your stove work? Is it on an electronic controller or manual valves? Is there a safety override in case one zone over heats or is it not possible for all zones to be all off at the same time?

Also when you upgraded your plumbing was there much involved in setting up the zones?

Thanks

dm1979

any idea on a rough price, on stove + all plumbing work etc, stove to heat rads and water.

rarnes1 wrote: »

How much is a zoned heating system as a matter of interest?

Difficult to give you a price, as as was part of plumbing upgrade
but we have 5 zones, all heated by the stove
most of the time, we only have 1 or 2 zone in use, so great energy saver

In practice, we fire up the stove, it heats one large room, approx 6 big rads there, and HW

on hour or so before hitting the hay, heats up a third zone, (50% of the bed rooms)

themainman2010

Question on Stove design : Efficiency!

All stoves seem to have the much the same efficiency but some are simple a square box and others have complex design.

Surely the Efficiency ratings don't mean anything then? The box designs can't be as efficienent?

I noticed most the stove you find on german websites have complex design and one's on Irish websites are square boxed!

[Deleted User]

k123456 wrote: »

It might also be worth getting a zoned heating system in, if you are doing this

How much is a zoned heating system as a matter of interest?

dm1979 wrote: »

hi all, me and the OH were just talking about getting a stove to heat the house, were currently on the oil and would like to switch to a stove to heat the rads. Its a bigish house with 9 radiatiors and we were just wandering about the cost involved?

It might also be worth getting a zoned heating system in, if you are doing this

dm1979

hi all, me and the OH were just talking about getting a stove to heat the house, were currently on the oil and would like to switch to a stove to heat the rads. Its a bigish house with 9 radiatiors and we were just wandering about the cost involved?

j timber

Hi guys
we are in the process of getting a stove.we went to look at a stanley tara in our local stockist today but unfortunately fell in love with the new range of stoves.the one which is roughly same output but new design is the ardmore.
the problem is its a boiler and does not come in non boiler.does anyone know of any other makes in the same sort of modern look??
on the other hand i could try and integrate into current heating system but not sure.it is a four zoned oil system. There is a manifold in the storage room above this room but not sure if u can tie into system here of if u have to go back to cylinder first?
Any info really appreciated

anthony4335 wrote: »

I got a stove installed earlier this year but haven't really used it much but I have noticed that when it is going full tilt the room gets a little smokey. The issue seems to be with the fireplace surround, which is wooden. It gets very hot and I noticed that directly above the stove the varnish seems to be sweating. I was wondering if anyone has experienced this and found a solution other than replacing the surround. If I do have to replace the surround what is the best type to install. Please note that I have a tv above the fireplace and would like to keep it there.

If the wood surround is difficult to remove , you could clad the wood in stone
which will repel most of the heat

http://www.stonepanels.ie/stone_products/index.html

The stone comes in panels , , very easy to attach to wood, you squeeze some bonding agent on the wood, u use one or two discreet screws, which pulls the panels tight on to the wood/bonding agent

80s Child

Hi folks,

My dad just bought the Contura i4 for a room 5m × 6m x 2.4m

Our room is 8m x 4.5m x 2.4m. From the calculators it says that we need 4.5kw stove.

What would you recommend?

Budget: €1000 - €1500.

Thanks

dermur wrote: »

I suspect the convected air may be getting drawn up the flue since I literally just slid the pieces together. I'm guessing these sections need to be completely airtight so that the convected air has no way of getting into the flue. So I think/hope that when I seal up the joints with fire cement then I'll be getting the full benefits of the convection box.

Confirmed that this was the issue - was able to shine a torch in through the top grill and could see that the collar wasn't seated properly. In fact there was a good centimeter clearance on one side of the collar which was drawing up both convected air and air in front of the stove!

oppenheimer1

anthony4335 wrote: »

I got a stove installed earlier this year but haven't really used it much but I have noticed that when it is going full tilt the room gets a little smokey. The issue seems to be with the fireplace surround, which is wooden. It gets very hot and I noticed that directly above the stove the varnish seems to be sweating. I was wondering if anyone has experienced this and found a solution other than replacing the surround. If I do have to replace the surround what is the best type to install. Please note that I have a tv above the fireplace and would like to keep it there.

You shouldn't surround a stove with combustible materials as it is a genuine fire risk. Many installers won't allow them to go in in those circumstances. I wouldn't put a TV over it either

Zane97

So I got a guy to take my fire place out with a view to sitting the stove in a little bit. I don't intend to sit it right in. But now I'm worried about clearance to the sides. The gas pipe was already blanked by an RGI last year at the side. Looking now I have 80 mm both sides. Advice needed before I get it fitted .

dermur wrote: »

Would draught up the flue affect convection performance?

I might be able to answer my own question here - I did a poor man's smoke test (with an incense burner!) and I can see plenty of air intake at the bottom but nothing coming out the top. Another test with a single-ply tissue paper shows airflow actually getting sucked in the top grill instead of blown out...

I suspect the convected air may be getting drawn up the flue since I literally just slid the pieces together. I'm guessing these sections need to be completely airtight so that the convected air has no way of getting into the flue. So I think/hope that when I seal up the joints with fire cement then I'll be getting the full benefits of the convection box.

In the meantime, if anyone can either confirm or shoot down this theory I'll be happy either way!

Iamhere wrote: »

those stove calculators are telling us we need 3.8kwh, i am wondering if we should get a more than 3.8kwh?

I'm becoming more and more convinced that there can be fairly large margins for error here...many room calculators don't take into account specifics such as the number of external walls, area covered by windows, temperature of adjoining rooms, etc.

Add to that the fact that it seems stoves have their own margin when it comes to stated KW values (type of fuel being burned) and I think you're better off being over-spec'ed (and use less fuel) than under (and unable to heat your room adequately). I've seen 17kw and 21kw stoves on offer with the same size log box...how does that work?

I think possibly more important is the log box size. A log box for a 3.8kw stove is likely to be so small that you'll be popping fuel into it every hour at least!

That's just based on my own experiences so far...I defer to the experts!