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A restoration tale (with pics)

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,550 ✭✭✭Slig


    HERE is a link to the rollers I was talking about


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,411 ✭✭✭dnme


    Slig wrote: »
    HERE is a link to the rollers I was talking about

    Yea I have one of them rollers, watch tonights update :) on its way...


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,411 ✭✭✭dnme


    I decided to have a go at filming myself working to try and make this interesting. My apologies for the sound in places. I'm using an old digital camera and it just has a little condenser mic so it seems to pick up the breeze. Also apologies for a rather intrusive in places Radio 1 in the background. You learn as you go eh!

    Filming yourself at this kind of work is tricky to say the least. If you are not covered in toxic dust, then you are covered in acetone or tacky as hell epoxy. Trying to switch on and off the camera, check it's pointing at roughly the right spot, trying to access a mtiny little record button while wearing big sticky gloves that are stuck to you....etc etc etc

    I need a camera man. Anyhow let me know what you think of these and in particular what do you reckon to the floor questions I raise in vid#2.

    Many thanks to everyone for replies and discussions, please keep em coming.


    1. Adding a new layer to glass fibre to the deck floor



    2. The finished product and some questions.



    3. Different types of glass fibre cloth


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,182 ✭✭✭alexlyons


    I've followed this from the start and look forward to your updates. You're probably going to hate me now, but believe it or not I actually prefer reading the updates rather than watching the clips. Having said that, seeing how you're doing it is quite interesting.

    Just my 2c.

    Oh, and I just hit the first page again by accident, you've come a hell of along way when you look a what it was. well done


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,411 ✭✭✭dnme


    alexlyons wrote: »
    I've followed this from the start and look forward to your updates. You're probably going to hate me now, but believe it or not I actually prefer reading the updates rather than watching the clips. Having said that, seeing how you're doing it is quite interesting.

    Just my 2c.

    Oh, and I just hit the first page again by accident, you've come a hell of along way when you look a what it was. well done

    You're right, I hate you! :o
    What do others think? Are the videos crap?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,270 ✭✭✭tin79


    I like them. you can get a lot of information from them in a short amount of time.

    Pics and words are great too but the videos give a nice shot into the process IMO.


  • Registered Users Posts: 18,394 ✭✭✭✭kippy


    dnme wrote: »
    You're right, I hate you! :o
    What do others think? Are the videos crap?

    I like the vids and purely from your own point of view, they should be much faster for you to get through *once you get used to the camera etc, you wont have to spend a few minutes every evening documenting everything.


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    A picture speaks a thousand words and a video a thousand more :D keep them coming. A wise man once said.

    “It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly; who errs and comes short again and again; because there is not effort without error and shortcomings; but who does actually strive to do the deed; who knows the great enthusiasm, the great devotion, who spends himself in a worthy cause, who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement and who at the worst, if he fails, at least he fails while daring greatly. So that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who know neither victory nor defeat.”

    - Theodore Roosevelt


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,167 ✭✭✭TopTec


    Like a child I want them both! The vids put the project in perspective, but your written descriptions are first class. I also find it easier to re-read certain parts that may contain a query, request or your opinion on life in general rather than trying to find the relevent part on a vid.

    You are a better author than cameraman though!!!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 219 ✭✭ScabbyLeg


    I'm also a fan of both! The vids are great and I like the Radio 1 :D I hope you're getting a few bob from your local MACE for the product placement :p

    However you decide to combine vid, pictures and text in your thread, I still find the whole thing fascinating. You have a real talent for it indeed. Fibreglassing made interesting - who'd have thought it!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 135 ✭✭Johnny Favourite


    Big Big fan of both the written description and the videos.... Keep them coming.

    You should defo throw a launch party... by the time its ready half the country will be there!!!! Myself included.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,411 ✭✭✭dnme


    Ho ho would ya look at that, feedback! (yeah ke ke ke ke ke:D)

    I think it's nice to mix it up a little. I'm definately not pla,nning on turning this into a video blog, I don't have the equipment nor the patience for it. As to which takes more work, the video definately takes a lot of time and effort. Firstly trying to place and operate the camera, then editing and finally posting to YT which takes ages. But I think a mix is nice, I know myself that i love watching vids of others especially at woodwork, boats, tools, por.......I've said too much again


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,533 ✭✭✭the keen edge


    Firstly regarding photo/text verses video, I myself would agree that a mix of the two forms of media is the best all round.

    I'm sure that this thread has many followers: some may follow to get technical knowledge of say the materials used in the restoration: some who need to see the manual application of the materials and others for the sheer entertainment of seeing the recreation of the craft.

    Using the mix of photo/text/video, the various different readers of this thread are all catered for.



    Secondly, with regard to which method of floor construction, I myself would side with the removable floor, or at least incorporating a removable access panel which gives access to all hull compartments.

    I have only limited knowledge of the robustness of the epoxy joint creating the seal, but will there a degree of flex in this region of the hull, possibly on launching/recovery?.

    I would like to have full confidence that the joint would never fail.

    If you do go the route of a sealed unit, presumably further construction around and above the floor would continue under the premise that this sealed unit will never fail.
    And with this in mind, if the joint was to fail due to normal stress, or even due to some type of collision, restoring the integrity of that joint would be a nightmare of a job.

    Just my two cents!.

    Keep up the good work, we're all rooting for ya!.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,411 ✭✭✭dnme


    Day 34

    I often loose track of time as in the date. I tend to live life alternating between the hard shoulder and the central verge, it sometimes seems as though everyone is whizzing by in traffic lanes but I am faffing about sightseeing. I often judge the time of year by best before dates. Tonight I picked up a quart of milk, on it was printed "use by 12/8/11". Sweet Jesus H. Willoughby Christ!!! Where has the year gone? What happened to time? I put the boat in my garden in March, I spent a few hours cleaning it out, took a break to make a cuppa and my milk says "use by 12/8/11". In the words of my great great grandmother...."sweet fcuk!"

    From midday, the sun started shining slowly but surely. You should be here this evening. It's like a mediterranean vista. There's a bold blue sky, the sun is brilliant, the fishing boats are out on the lake, up in the village, all the tables outside the Mayfly are busy with suppers. The weather is so dam important. It's a driver and contributes to everything.

    I looked at my new deck floor today. My fears were somewhat realised in that the 600gsm woven roving glass fibre created a sort of matrix pattern with lots of little pin holes in the weave crossover gap. The cure though is a simple one. I mixed up epoxy, white pigment and a small amount of colloidal silica to thicken the mix to the consistency of treacle. I was then able to paint this onto my new floor. It does two things; (a) makes it even whiter and (b) fills all the little pinhole gaps. As you can see, my lack of experience continues to be a great source of extra work for me but who knew?

    The floor now looks like a really serious job, beautiful, robust, strong. There is now three coats of epoxy sandwiching a layer of 600gsm cloth. I notice too that the floor has stiffened up somewhat with the new stringers and the above. This is what I am after. Up until now, it creaked, cracked and flexed when I walked on it, always making me feel nervous. I still wanna get the hell up off it completely with a nice marine ply flat floor but I just knowing that the deck hull is now decent makes me feel so much better about the boat.

    I spent the rest of the afternoon sanding down areas that I have been filling with Hempel. These areas include both side keel seats on the hull underside. Another sanding and filling and they will be ready for paint. I have also been going around the boat and going over all the old fixture and fitting holes thast I have filled previously. My method of choice was to tape up these on the gelcoat external side, and pack them with epoxy paste from the interior. Today I used a dremmel with a bore stone attachment to burr these filled areas making a slight keyed depression ready for filling; And fill I did. Tonight the entire boat looks like it spent the day shaving and cutting itself, in that it's all patchy with filler - so much so that it has to spend the night with no cover. Rain don't you even think about it.....I swear to god!!!

    And finally, back to our Boat restoration recipies section:cool:
    One thing that drives me insane when trying to work on the boat, is having to stop and take care of dinner. I never want to stop once I get going. When it comes to food, I cook batches. Today I had a nice tray of roasties ready and back to our olf friends at LIDL for a couple of lamb shanks. Oh yeah baby these puppies are yummy. 2 in a box for a fiver. They come pre-cooked and all you gotta do is heat them by boiling for a few minutes. Be great on a boat.

    1. New deck floor after painting a thickened epoxy mix onto the woven roving. Fills the gaps beautifully and whitenes the floor up. Although I guess epoxy tends to discolour and suffers from the sun so lets see what happens here.
    168529.jpg


    2. The sky has turned a weird colour today. All the animals have stopped howling and the local witch says it's something to do with a phenomenon known as summertime.
    168530.jpg


    3. Burring out filled holes rgetting them ready for epoxy filler.
    168531.jpg


    4. Time to look at the side keel timbers. Here they are fully dried, sanded and you can see where I routed out the rot in one of them. I will fill this with epoxy. Who can tell me what timber these are? I am guessing they are hard wood 'cos they are very heavy.
    168532.jpg


    5. Go down to LIDL and pick up a pair of these. Shanks for the tip!:cool:
    168533.jpg


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Looking and smelling good, I know you don't want to cut groves into the stringers but could you drill some 10mm holes in them to let the water flow out and keep it from filling up to the underside of the plywood floor.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,411 ✭✭✭dnme


    fergal.b wrote: »
    Looking and smelling good, I know you don't want to cut groves into the stringers but could you drill some 10mm holes in them to let the water flow out and keep it from filling up to the underside of the plywood floor.

    I'd have to get a 10mm bit flush to the floor, impossible. What about filling the compartments (areas created by the stringers) with something? is that a possibility?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,182 ✭✭✭alexlyons


    If it was me, I'd make use of the dremel tool and cut grooves into the stringers and re-glass them.
    If you do this, do way more than the groove you want to allow for the thickness of the glass/epoxy and try get them flush with the floor.

    You're doing so well with it, even if this one job sets you back by a full day, which I doubt it will, it would be well worth it. You have plenty of time and have the ability to do it. There is no point in leading yourself to a situation months down the line where you're out in the boat saying "its perfect, except I wish I had done the 'bilge' right". Face the fact that your human and forgot it, fix it, and really make a massive difference to the boat. If its one thing a boat needs, it's proper drainage.


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    No matter what you put in there it will still hold water. How about just grinding a few nicks in the top of the stringer not right down to the wood just enough to keep water away from the floor or if you do go down to the wood just give it a coat of epoxy to seal it back up.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,411 ✭✭✭dnme


    here's the thing. the floor is flat, it's doesn't even slope in to the central stringer. So adding drainage channels might only attract some water. Then............where is the water to go? I have no bilge! I have absolutely no bilge, there is no area where the floor even dips. Would cutting drainage into the stringers not weaken them?

    What if I cut a channel into each stringer right where it meets the central stringer, lay down a small plastic tube and then epoxy back over it?

    Then what about a pump? a bilge pump is no use to me because they are all submersible and need an actual bilge to sit into, I just have a flat floor. What I need is a pump that allows a suction tube to lay on the floor and sucks water up through that. Does such a pump exist?

    EDIT: Also bear in mind my raised floor will not be sitting on the stringers you are currently looking at, I will be adding new stringers to hold that floor about 4-5" up.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,182 ✭✭✭alexlyons


    Test the floor with a few cap fulls of water and see how it drains while sitting up. Then bare in mind it will ly diifferently when in the water with an engine hanging off the back.

    Cutting a small groove in the stringer shouldn't weaken it by any considerable amount at all.


    My brain is telling me that it may be possible to rig up a bung that you could remove when im the boat, through a small hatch maybe. Remove the bung, put the power on a bit, lift the bow and let the water drain. It definitely works, you'd just have to figure a way of working it into your specific boat.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 384 ✭✭hatetherain!


    Oh my good god I've been reading your story for the last 1 1/2 hours....it's now 1am!
    It's fascinating and you've done such a great job so far, havent people been so generous with their advice and offers of help!
    I'm not a boat person, can't even swim but love the way you describe everything and how ur emotions, both good bad and funny, come through!
    I prefer the pics to the video but must admit I checked out a few if the videos and you live in a beautiful place!
    Best of luck with the rest of the project!

    Ps your dog is lovely, bet she can't wait to get out on the lake with you


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,550 ✭✭✭Slig


    alexlyons wrote: »
    Test the floor with a few cap fulls of water and see how it drains while sitting up. Then bare in mind it will ly diifferently when in the water with an engine hanging off the back.

    Cutting a small groove in the stringer shouldn't weaken it by any considerable amount at all.


    My brain is telling me that it may be possible to rig up a bung that you could remove when im the boat, through a small hatch maybe. Remove the bung, put the power on a bit, lift the bow and let the water drain. It definitely works, you'd just have to figure a way of working it into your specific boat.


    From experience with this system (involuntarily!! but thats a story for the launch party:D) you would have to be going very very fast, even Ribs need a lenght of flexible hose to create a sort of valve. The system is called an elephants trunk I think.

    I would definately reccomend putting in a bung if there is no chance of a bilge pump. With a boat that size I can imagine you will be taking it out of the water after use. if you then tilt up the draw bar of the trailer you should be able to let all the water out, even the protrusions of the stringers shouldnt be a problem with enough gravity.

    Normally I wouldnt be an advocate of drilling holes in the hull, especially below the waterline, but remember every drop of water adds up(rain, spray from the engine, the dog getting back in the boat after a swim.) If it cant evaporate due to being floored over a damp musty environment is the perfect recipe for mould growth and in that area even fibreglass will eventually rot.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,411 ✭✭✭dnme


    What about cutting a 1cm trench cut down into in each stringer, bedding down a small plastic tube, epoxying back over that. Then a sump plug cut into the lowest point of the transom where it meets the full.

    How am I doing so far?????

    Then what about a 12v pump with an intake hose attached to the floor at lowest point ?

    If enough people ok this, I'll do it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,182 ✭✭✭alexlyons


    Slig wrote: »
    From experience with this system (involuntarily!! but thats a story for the launch party:D) you would have to be going very very fast, even Ribs need a lenght of flexible hose to create a sort of valve. The system is called an elephants trunk I think.

    Not trying to deliberately disagree with you here, but working with ribs and other boats every day, the system works well and you don't need to be going very very fast. You need to be doing 8 knots, which is quick for some boats, but this one should be fine if it is correctly powered. If you aren't doing 8 knots, water does start to come in, which isn't an idle outcome ;) Obviously if the plan is for a small engine (nothing wrong with under powering the boat, just don't over power it) then this system won't work.

    Just to add to your knowledge slig, which I've been learning from through your advice; Ribs don't "need" the hose/flexible tubes to create a valve. The reason they are used is purely for convenience. With a piece of rope attached to the outside end of it, you can quickly pull the end of the "sock" out of the water to prevent water entering the boat when you slow down.
    These holes could be designed with socks in mind but not in place and then blocked with bungs, as is the case in some zodiac ribs. Or in the case of smaller ribs such as 3.5m avons and caribes, they have a 6x4x1 inch well at the stern with a bung that you can easily pull out and put back when you want to drain the water. These ribs are not designed for socks and a bung is easy to use as they can only take tiller engines so you just need to reach down to use it.
    I find bungs in bigger ribs are a pain as they are capable of taking socks and making it a much quicker and easier process when on your own. Obviously with these type of boats socks don't really work so a bung is what is needed.

    While its not all relevant to this project, it can be handy to know :)
    dnme wrote: »
    What about cutting a 1cm trench cut down into in each stringer, bedding down a small plastic tube, epoxying back over that. Then a sump plug cut into the lowest point of the transom where it meets the full.

    How am I doing so far?????

    Then what about a 12v pump with an intake hose attached to the floor at lowest point ?

    If enough people ok this, I'll do it.

    even without the bit in bold it sounds good.

    I'm guessing what you mean is that you'd put a bung in the lowest possible place of the transom, which would be in addition to the pump? If so then my opinion would be a yes this sounds perfect :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,411 ✭✭✭dnme


    This is a rough sketch, the central stringer runs all the way back, so which side to place the bung? or perhaos two bungs, if not, then at the very least I need notches in the central stringer to allow water through it as well as the branch stringers.

    168597.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,182 ✭✭✭alexlyons


    I'd do this...


    168601.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,182 ✭✭✭alexlyons


    or if you want less work and you're confident it'll be strong enough, you could just let the main stinger down the middle end about 2 inches from the transom and stick the bung in there. you wouldn't need to do the lateral notches either if you did this...


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    I would go with alexlyons you only need one cut in the center stringer at the transom. You can also get low profile pumps that I think would fit under your floor.

    SS3612_w_tnsupersub.jpg

    356790733.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,182 ✭✭✭alexlyons


    just a note of caution: I've stripped numerous bilge pumps, generally resembling the second picture that have been clogged up with hair. no animals have been on the boats in question, so be very careful with those pumps if the dog is going to be on board! keep it clean and it'll be fine. The motors burn out pretty quickly if they get clogged up.

    If you put one in, check the flow of it at the very start so you can see what its like unblocked etc so if you notice a change of flow then its a good sign to check it, but don't just rely on the flow as an indicator.
    We have 3 launches in work, all with the same pump, and when brand new, each boats outflow of water looked completely different. Don't expect it to be a solid stream, one of ours comes out of the hole and runs down the boat, the other actually pumps is half a foot out of the boat.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,182 ✭✭✭alexlyons


    just a note of caution: I've stripped numerous bilge pumps, generally resembling the second picture that have been clogged up with hair. no animals have been on the boats in question, so be very careful with those pumps if the dog is going to be on board! keep it clean and it'll be fine. The motors burn out pretty quickly if they get clogged up.

    If you put one in, check the flow of it at the very start so you can see what its like unblocked etc so if you notice a change of flow then its a good sign to check it, but don't just rely on the flow as an indicator.
    We have 3 launches in work, all with the same pump, and when brand new, each boats outflow of water looked completely different. Don't expect it to be a solid stream, one of ours comes out of the hole and runs down the boat, the other actually pumps is half a foot out of the boat.


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