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There was a thread last week on tz-uk about the cost of certain bracelets, it was quite timely as i had just agreed a deal for an oem IWC bracelet for my 3717.
Even at a generous discount it is eye wateringly expensive .However, I really like this watch and I wanted a bracelet, so rather than sell it and get something else I decided to bite the bullet. Delighted with how it looks, which is good because whilst it was easy enough to put on it looks like it could be a bugger to get off again without scratching something
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Here's a few photos and first impressions/mini review of a IWC Vintage Collection Aquatimer 3231-01 I just picked up. Apologies for all the photos, just got a tripod and got carried away...
As regards the overall design, I love the fact that this is a modern interpretation of the 1967 vintage, rather than a slavish copy. It is more 'nuevo-vintage' than 'vintage', has hard Teutonic lines that make it different than anything else I have seen, and in my opinion fits the Germanic design profile of IWC Schaffhausen as northern Switzerland's only high profile watchmaker.
What you can't see in photos is how light plays on the case, the micro polished chamfer around the bezel and the applied hour markers really sparkle as the watch is moved. It is certainly no shrinking violet. The 3D step of the bezel from the main dial to the timer ring also looks super in the flesh. As with all watches, you really need to see this in person to appreciate it. The inner rotating bezel is actioned via the lower crown.
The movement (80111) is also fully in-house and uses a pelaton movement for bi-directional winding, as I understand this is not a new system but quite unique for modern production. I like the fact that this movement is a work horse and has lot's of thickness/tolerance and a shock proofing system. You can play golf with it should you choose, not usually advisable with an automatic. I want this as a keeper to hand down to one of my sons so it's good to know it's very robust. I have not had a chance to run timing tests yet, but other owners of this movement seem happy. IWC run a +0 to +7 /day tolerance as far as I know.
As regards the finishing of the movement, some people have commented that it is a little plain/unfinished, I couldn't disagree more, I think it's beautiful and it fits in well with what is in effect a tool watch, not a dress watch. Once again it's one that you can really appreciate in person with the play of light on the surfaces as it is handled.
The obligatory wrist shot! I don't have massive wrists (around 6.75'', but flat wrist) and this is a 44mm watch, so it's large. But the lugs are steeply angled and it fits well, I love it.
The lume is also super and really bright, sure there are brighter lumes, but it is perfect for this watch and the green works well on the 'nuevo-vintage' style IMO.
The OEM rubber has a vintage cross hatch style, looks great and is very tool like. But I also picked up a IWC Santoni Dark Brown strap also to dress the watch up a bit and give it more flexibility. (the lugs on the VC AT have a 22mm spacing as per the Portofino 8-day). I have to say it is a wonderful combination, it really transforms the VC AT into a quasi dress watch. The strap is a real work of art and the patina has a wonderful colour shift in the light.
Perfect to use with a casual jeans/jacket combo.
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Thats a really beautiful piece Smartfox.
Hey all, just stumbled upon this tread in the last few days and I have to say, I'm unbelievably envious of all yer beautiful watches.. Makes me wish I had money
I do love a nice watch, but I would be lying if I said I was as big into them as some of you guys on here. For example, my everyday watch is a €30 Nightmare Before Christmas special, all the way from Disneyland Paris
I figured I might aswell throw up a cuple of pics of my good watches, as some of you might appreciate them :pac:
First one is nothing special/rare. Just holds sentimental value at this stage. Its a Sekonda something or other.Was a gift from my nan, all the way from New York.
The second, maybe a little bit more special.
Its a Tonio Lamborghini 2005.22 apparently
My parents gave it to me as a gift for my 21st over 5 years ago, and it supposedly cost a nice bit of wonga. I've only ever worn it a couple of times for fear of doing damage. And i appreciate, it may be a little too flashy for some of you folk on here. But I love it
Also, considering the piece is a few years old now. Is it too late to send away for the official certification??
Hope you enjoyed 0 -
Thats a really beautiful piece Smartfox.
The second, maybe a little bit more special.
Its a Tonio Lamborghini 2005.22 apparently
My parents gave it to me as a gift for my 21st over 5 years ago, and it supposedly cost a nice bit of wonga. I've only ever worn it a couple of times for fear of doing damage. And i appreciate, it may be a little too flashy for some of you folk on here. But I love it
Hope you enjoyed
Only one problem with the Lambo...the Arsenal Mouse Mat its on...:PThe narrower a man’s mind, the broader his statements.
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Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 60,075 Mod ✭✭✭✭
Join Date:Posts: 59004
+1 SmartFox bloody lovely watch with a great history of the compressor type case behind it. I always admired the two crown compressor cases. A very novel way of waterproofing a watch for diving and quite different to how Rolex and those who copied them went about it. No screwdown crowns etc. All based on compressible rubber seals and working with the pressure not agin it(IIRC the new IWC doesn't use the same system. On the originals the upper crown moves the inner bezel and the crystal/glass is much more bulbous and protruding). Many quality marques ran with it at the time, JLC, IWC, Longines(Wittnuaer), Enicar, Lip, Blancpain, Hamilton, Girard Perregaux, Zenith(rare as rocking horse shít) and a host of others. The leather strap looks very good SF. Wouldn't have thought it would but it does. Well may you wear. Great pics too.Thats a really beautiful piece Smartfox.
I hear ya there D.Hey all, just stumbled upon this tread in the last few days and I have to say, I'm unbelievably envious of all yer beautiful watches.. Makes me wish I had money
Unluckily I don't have SmartFox's bank balance, but luckily I've even scrawnier wrists than him soooo... I can go vintage and not too look outa place.
*obligatory wrist shot of pre xmas purchase of late 60's Lip Nautic as used by the Cousteau team*
See? It looks like it's near 40+mm. It aint That said it's a big watch in thickness and funny enough of all my vintage and oddball watches it's the one that garners most interest. I think it's the two winding crowns.
The real killer? Waaay back in the day? I was into WW1/2/pilots watches so turned down an original 60's IWC with an asking price of 200 quid, worse a Longines compressor cased diver for 80. Oh the stuff I said no to in the 80's, before mechanical watches really took off :eek::oRejoice in the awareness of feeling stupid, for that’s how you end up learning new things. If you’re not aware you’re stupid, you probably are.
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...No screwdown crowns etc. All based on compressible rubber seals and working with the pressure not agin it(IIRC the new IWC doesn't use the same system)...
The offset crowns are a nice visual feature. The bottom crown for turning the internal timing bezel is a compressor type so you can rotate it underwater (although not sure at what depth it would lock up), but the main upper crown is a screw down....Many quality marques ran with it at the time, JLC...
The JLC Polaris is a beaut
...obligatory wrist shot of pre xmas purchase of late 60's Lip Nautic as used by the Cousteau team...
Would be nice to see a pic of that, link seems broken?
Cheers0 -
Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 60,075 Mod ✭✭✭✭ Join Date:Posts: 59004
The originals were apparently OK up to 660 feet. Or actually 666 feet, but the US market didn't go for the diabolic elementThe offset crowns are a nice visual feature. The bottom crown for turning the internal timing bezel is a compressor type so you can rotate it underwater (although not sure at what depth it would lock up), but the main upper crown is a screw down.
God yea. Compressor case with an underwater alarm in the original of the species. :eek:The JLC Polaris is a beaut
Hopefully works nowWould be nice to see a pic of that, link seems broken? Rejoice in the awareness of feeling stupid, for that’s how you end up learning new things. If you’re not aware you’re stupid, you probably are.
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Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 60,075 Mod ✭✭✭✭ Join Date:Posts: 59004
I'd agree with Smartfox, you're likely ok for general active stuff. Never thought about the rotor aspect TBH maybe because I've never owned an auto, all handwinds. Still I've worn those handwinds on a daily rotational basis and they just kept on going and the oldest is from 1916 and half of them have no shock protection at all. I've had the crown pop out on a 60's Heuer after a car hit me and I fell hard, still kept going. I've broken crystals and the like with being clumsy and still they kept going. Other than avoiding water I'm fairly confident in their robustness. Indeed of all my watches over the years the quartz ones were the least robust funny enough. Including two us mil spec* issued watches, both less than ten years old, both dead as doorknobs. The only quartz I have still running are an early 80's seiko calculator watch and an old Casio G shock. The latter bloody good watches.
*cheap as chips but just built enough to work Rejoice in the awareness of feeling stupid, for that’s how you end up learning new things. If you’re not aware you’re stupid, you probably are.
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