the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Guffy · 19-06-2018 11:09pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

how badly rusted? and what will the bike be used for?

Jist to and from work, bout an 8k cycle each way. I think it's at the borderline between save and replace.

19-06-2018 11:28pm

The cassette and chainrings rusted too and is it just rust or have you oily crud build up on there too?

magicbastarder · 20-06-2018 9:59pm

not really a bike maintenance question - but nearly every time i connect my (cheapo) garmin to my phone via bluetooth, my phone informs me that there's a software update available for it, but it's fully up to date. garmin express lists a bunch of language updates, none of which i need. anyone else having this problem?

Macy0161 · 20-06-2018 10:36pm

Well my connect app has been telling me "update available" for my 920xt several times a week recently.

LollipopJimmy · 20-06-2018 10:41pm

Same with my Garmin, I've no idea what garmin I have though, 500 I think. Every time I plug it in there's updates

Macy0161 · 22-06-2018 9:07am

Winter bike has a medium shimano cage which I run 11-32, the other a short cage with which I run 11-28. On the direct drive turbo, I currently use the winter bike, so it has an 11-32.

If I swap that for 11-28, should I be ok using either bike without any adjustments? i.e. can I just mount and ride the bike that's set up for 11-32 on the road without issue?

Paul_Mc1988 · 22-06-2018 2:17pm

You can throw the 11-28 on the bike with the medium cage but would need to swap the chain also. The gearing shouldn't need any adjustments but id put the chain on the big cog at the back and unscrew the b-screw a bit so its spaced a bit better

cython · 22-06-2018 2:41pm

Paul_Mc1988 wrote: »

You can throw the 11-28 on the bike with the medium cage but would need to swap the chain also. The gearing shouldn't need any adjustments but id put the chain on the big cog at the back and unscrew the b-screw a bit so its spaced a bit better

Shouldn't need to change the chain unless there's a difference in wear between the cassettes - the smallest and largest sprockets in 11-28 are within the range of 11-32 (i.e. on 11-32 before you hit the lowest you may be in 11-28 depending on the cassette progression), so the latter chain can work with the same derailleur setup. It will just mean the rear mech never extends as much as it might on 11-32. As you say the b-screw may need some tuning, but that's minor enough.

Macy0161 · 22-06-2018 2:47pm

Thanks, I'm not going to bother now I've thought on it. It was to allow for a crank power meter swapping between bikes*, but that's actually more hassle than putting the 11-28 on the turbo and just taking the good bike on and off for the summer, and then doing the same in the winter with the winter bike! I was just being a bit dumb when I had the thought.

*even though it is handy, on reflection I think a seasonal swap is better all around than trying to do it weekly.

Paul_Mc1988 · 22-06-2018 6:04pm

cython wrote:

Shouldn't need to change the chain unless there's a difference in wear between the cassettes - the smallest and largest sprockets in 11-28 are within the range of 11-32 (i.e. on 11-32 before you hit the lowest you may be in 11-28 depending on the cassette progression), so the latter chain can work with the same derailleur setup. It will just mean the rear mech never extends as much as it might on 11-32. As you say the b-screw may need some tuning, but that's minor enough.

You learn somthing new everyday

. Them few extra links would save a few gram though

Ray Bloody Purchase · 26-06-2018 12:49pm

I got a new phone lately. Huawei P20. It doesn't seem to stay connected to my Garmin 520 at all. I have to pair and unpair it to get it to upload. I usually have to do it a few times before it joins up.

Anyone else have problems with something like this?

Borderfox · 26-06-2018 5:23pm

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

I got a new phone lately. Huawei P20. It doesn't seem to stay connected to my Garmin 520 at all. I have to pair and unpair it to get it to upload. I usually have to do it a few times before it joins up.

Anyone else have problems with something like this?

Usual answer is to factory reset the Garmin unit and start again.

Weepsie · 26-06-2018 6:23pm

Turn off the phone and pair again. It's not enough to turn off bluetooth and have it back again. Happens with the 1030 and my phone sometimes. Turning the phone off and then on sees it pair.

29-06-2018 10:47pm

Can't recall if I asked this before but now that I'm off the bike for a few weeks I've time to sit and look at them and get things done like see to the run around bike and get it all nice and shiny again in it's twilight years.

It's got some badly tattered shimano/brand decals on the chainstays and some other places but paint work is fine over all. I'm of a mind to removes those altogether but how some parts will just peel away but the rest is still stuck on fast? Thinking hair dryer and and something plastic that wont chip the paint?

saccades · 30-06-2018 10:47am

Hair dryer and WD-40 works well.

North of 32 · 01-07-2018 6:14pm

My rear gears are slipping under load. I bought the bike in May and have been only been doing easy road riding - my research suggests this is fairly normal for new bikes after cables stretch.

The shop where I bought the bike is looking for 40-60 euro to inspect/adjust/repair. The bike had its first inspection about 2 weeks ago and they charged me half price; 20 euro because it was the first inspection. I have not done much riding in the last 2 weeks. I'm new to bikes but I reckon they should've picked up on this. I think it's really bad form on their part.

Is there anything I can do myself, straightforwardly, or should I look for a new bike shop? I don't have a problem spending money, but if I'm going to pay I expect a thorough check and not someone to grease my seatpost and tighten my breaks for 40 euro.

07Lapierre · 01-07-2018 6:17pm

North of 32 wrote: »

My rear gears are slipping under load. I bought the bike in May and have been only been doing easy road riding - my research suggests this is fairly normal for new bikes after cables stretch.

The shop where I bought the bike is looking for 40-60 euro to inspect/adjust/repair. The bike had its first inspection about 2 weeks ago and they charged me half price; 20 euro because it was the first inspection. I have not done much riding in the last 2 weeks. I'm new to bikes but I reckon they should've picked up on this. I think it's really bad form on their part.

Is there anything I can do myself, straightforwardly, or should I look for a new bike shop? I don't have a problem spending money, but if I'm going to pay I expect a thorough check and not someone to grease my seatpost and tighten my breaks for 40 euro.

Was it a 2nd hand bike you bought? Surprised that the shop charged you for the first service.

North of 32 · 01-07-2018 6:20pm

07Lapierre wrote: »

Was it a 2nd hand bike you bought? Surprised that the shop charged you for the first service.

I bought it new. I know 1000euro isn't a lot in the world of bikes but I thought they would've thrown in a free service for that amount of money, or at least picked up on the slipping gears after charging me. Surely someone experienced would've sussed it? Maybe I'm being harsh.

07Lapierre · 01-07-2018 6:24pm

Yeah that's very poor service from the shop.

Sounds like your gears just need to be adjusted..Watch this video..itll show you how to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bbk5RcH0bbQ

iwillhtfu · 01-07-2018 6:30pm

07Lapierre wrote: »

Yeah that's very poor service from the shop.

That's piss poor service every bike shop I know always gets the new owner to come back after a 1-200km to do a check over on the bike with no charge.

I wouldn't be going back there OP and I'd be inclined to go back tell them they're a right shower.

As said the gears probably just need to be indexed correctly. You may get away with just using the barrel adjuster.

North of 32 · 01-07-2018 6:37pm

07Lapierre wrote: »

Yeah that's very poor service from the shop.

Sounds like your gears just need to be adjusted..Watch this video..itll show you how to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bbk5RcH0bbQ

iwillhtfu wrote: »

That's piss poor service every bike shop I know always gets the new owner to come back after a 1-200km to do a check over on the bike with no charge.

I wouldn't be going back there OP and I'd be inclined to go back tell them they're a right shower.

As said the gears probably just need to be indexed correctly. You may get away with just using the barrel adjuster.

I won't be going back. After watching that video I reckon a turn or two of the barrel adjuster might be sufficient. I'll give it a go before my next spin.

01-07-2018 11:25pm

iwillhtfu wrote: »

That's piss poor service every bike shop I know always gets the new owner to come back after a 1-200km to do a check over on the bike with no charge.

I wouldn't be going back there OP and I'd be inclined to go back tell them they're a right shower.

As said the gears probably just need to be indexed correctly. You may get away with just using the barrel adjuster.

+1 Any LBS worth their salt will tell someone to come back after 6 weeks or 200km whether it be a 1k road bike or run around that cost 200 euro to make adjustments after bedding in and do it for free. Hell even Halfords do it.

CramCycle · 01-07-2018 11:33pm

I didn't go back to my LBS for the free service (quicker to do myself) but turned up 10months later with another issue that I hadn't the time or skill to do. Owner remembered me, no labour charge and waved the 20euro in parts when he remembered at the till I hadn't been in. Do my best since then to buy bits now and again from them, although they are so busy I doubt they need it. A good LBS is worth their weight in gold IMO.

CramCycle · 03-07-2018 11:00am

What are peoples views on acceptable levels of chain wear on an 11 speed chain. My last one was over .75 before I changed. I got a measure thing and thought I had felt a slip and realised it was well past the 0.75 wear indicator.

Now I have the indicator, my current chain has just passed 0.5. Are 11 speed chains OK upto 0.75 or are you safer changing early.

Final question, what chain do people recommend. I have always found SRAM great and currently use the 1130. I was considering using their X1 chain as its meant to be harder wearing but is that just marketing BS.

magicbastarder · 03-07-2018 11:04am

both times i've changed at .75 - on my third chain now - and it's running fine. i've seen a few comments about changing at 0.5% on an 11 speed though.

Ray Bloody Purchase · 03-07-2018 11:49am

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

I got a new phone lately. Huawei P20. It doesn't seem to stay connected to my Garmin 520 at all. I have to pair and unpair it to get it to upload. I usually have to do it a few times before it joins up.

Anyone else have problems with something like this?

I got this sorted. Sort of. When i open Garmin connect it connects to the phone. It doesn't seem to stay connected once i get out of the app though.

LollipopJimmy · 03-07-2018 1:14pm

I eat through Shimano and Sram chains for some reason. I do meticulously maintain and I have thought that maybe they don't like being cleaned the whole time. I then switched to a KMC Gold chain and I sold the chain with a groupset after about 7k kms with no wear showing on it. On the new bike I've just rolled over 3k kms and the Shimano chain needs replacing so going KMC again. Expensive chain but cheaper in the long run

CramCycle · 03-07-2018 1:42pm

Will try the KMC next

Weepsie · 03-07-2018 1:46pm

I use PG1030 and PG1050 SRAM chains mostly. Wear fairly well even with my soso cleaning regime. I've a few bikes though, so probably only doing a fraction on some that others are doing on chain.

LollipopJimmy · 03-07-2018 2:07pm

Weepsie wrote: »

I use PG1030 and PG1050 SRAM chains mostly. Wear fairly well even with my soso cleaning regime. I've a few bikes though, so probably only doing a fraction on some that others are doing on chain.

I really think soso cleaning for the Sram and Shimano chains is the way to go. My problem is I go out in all weathers and mostly by the coast so picking up bits of sand and I like to get rid of that as soon as I get back. Sand mixed with lube is essentially a grinding paste

dahat · 03-07-2018 2:13pm

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I eat through Shimano and Sram chains for some reason. I do meticulously maintain and I have thought that maybe they don't like being cleaned the whole time. I then switched to a KMC Gold chain and I sold the chain with a groupset after about 7k kms with no wear showing on it. On the new bike I've just rolled over 3k kms and the Shimano chain needs replacing so going KMC again. Expensive chain but cheaper in the long run

I'm the same with chains, go through them like nothing else despite a good cleaning routine.

KMC next for me as well, I just can't be that hard on chains.

coach22 · 03-07-2018 2:18pm

I was trying to remove the front brake caliper on my road bike. Stuck a 5mm allen key into the recessed bolt at the bottom of the fork and seem to have rounded the allen bolt now. Any tips on how to remove it?

LollipopJimmy · 03-07-2018 3:18pm

dahat wrote: »

I'm the same with chains, go through them like nothing else despite a good cleaning routine.

KMC next for me as well, I just can't be that hard on chains.

My mate had the same problem with Shimano chains and no issue since going KMC. Now to add to that he's 105kg and I'm not a million miles off him so I'm sure this adds to the quick wear

Thud · 04-07-2018 9:11am

coach22 wrote: »

I was trying to remove the front brake caliper on my road bike. Stuck a 5mm allen key into the recessed bolt at the bottom of the fork and seem to have rounded the allen bolt now. Any tips on how to remove it?

Try an elastic band between allen key and bolt first if that fails:
https://www.aldi.ie/workzone-damaged-screw-remover-set/p/096188205481300

07Lapierre · 04-07-2018 9:20am

coach22 wrote: »

I was trying to remove the front brake caliper on my road bike. Stuck a 5mm allen key into the recessed bolt at the bottom of the fork and seem to have rounded the allen bolt now. Any tips on how to remove it?

Remove the front wheel.

Put the Allen key into the recessed bolt and apply as much pressure as you can.

With your other hand, turn the brake caliper in an anti-clockwise direction and see if you car unscrew it from the bolt.

CramCycle · 04-07-2018 10:59am

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I eat through Shimano and Sram chains for some reason. I do meticulously maintain and I have thought that maybe they don't like being cleaned the whole time. I then switched to a KMC Gold chain and I sold the chain with a groupset after about 7k kms with no wear showing on it. On the new bike I've just rolled over 3k kms and the Shimano chain needs replacing so going KMC again. Expensive chain but cheaper in the long run

Is it this one : http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/kmc-x11-super-light-11-speed-chain/rp-prod57322

or this one:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/kmc-x11-el-11-speed-chain/rp-prod132778

and I presume there is no difference in the gold / silver versions

LollipopJimmy · 04-07-2018 2:10pm

CramCycle wrote: »

Is it this one : http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/kmc-x11-super-light-11-speed-chain/rp-prod57322

or this one:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/kmc-x11-el-11-speed-chain/rp-prod132778

and I presume there is no difference in the gold / silver versions

I went for the SL version, I got the gold and my buddy got the silver, no difference, well apart from the colour.

Deano12345 · 05-07-2018 11:59am

Edit : hit post by mistake

I’ve recently gotten a new bike and it’s fantastic, not really looking to upgrade with anything particular but I have a query about the brakes. It runs disks and my options for wheels are pretty limited it seems, I’d love to go carbon but I can already feel my wallet crying.

There seems to be quite a good selection of second hand carbon wheels for rim brakes, so is it possible to change the hubs to run disks, or am I starting off down a long expensive path doing that ?

c.p.w.g.w · 05-07-2018 1:46pm

Not mb related but road bike...Looking for advice re chain lubricant? What is the best type and brand for a road bike, typical spins are no longer than 2 hours, no hill climbing yet.

Cheers

magicbastarder · 05-07-2018 3:24pm

c.p.w.g.w wrote: »

Not mb related but road bike

the mb is actually short for magicbastarder...

CramCycle · 05-07-2018 3:25pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

the mb is actually short for magicbastarder...

I damn well knew it

Icyseanfitz · 14-07-2018 4:53pm

well lads, question re chainline here. I have sram eagle gxp on my cube and i am finding the chainline for the largest sprocket is pretty crap, i am trying to figure out how to improve it. My crankset is sram eagle non boost with what i assume is a 6mm offset chainring with a 49mm chainline, should work grand with my 142 rear but is a little out as i have a wheels manufacturing pressfit bb that sticks out past the bb shell on either side a little.
Is the any chainring i can get with a larger offset than 6mm to push the chainline in towards the frame a little? i thought id be able to just stick some spacers behind the chainring but with the cinch system its pretty impossible.

Icyseanfitz · 19-07-2018 4:18pm

Hey guys, trying to fix up a gt sanction 2014 for a friend. I replaced the bushings in the i-drive pivot near the bb as there was play in it, cant find play in any of the other bearings or bushing in the frame.

When the rear brake is locked or used heavily there is a massive vibration up through the frame, regardless of positioning on the bike. it starts at the rear but is so strong it can be felt up through the bars.

The bearings in the rear wheel have no play and ive tightened the axle way up. I tried a different wheel with a different rotor (that i know to be good) and it slightly reduced the vibration, im putting that down to bigger volume tyre though.

I also tried a different brake and that made zero difference, ive clamped the caliper bolts way past recommended torque no difference. I also over tightened the headset (bearings need replacing but theres no play in it) to see if that could be it but no.

I fix up mtb's for a living part time so im not completely clueless (i think Big Grin ) but this is completely throwing me, ive checked everything to the best of my abilities and ive found no solution. Anyone here have any ideas? I would appreciate anything at this stage.

g0g · 21-07-2018 9:05am

Too lazy to read entire thread and when I google I get loads of different answers.

Shimano 105 10 speed front brake bad is rubbing tyre on one side. Fixed it before but can't remember how.
1) Checked wheel looks to be sitting correctly in the fork and spinning straight
2) Tried just "rotating" it slightly around the thingy that mounts it to the fork but no luck
3) Pad looks to be as low as it'll go in the brake unit already

So I'm guessing it's that screw thing at the top of the brake or maybe the twisty yoke at the end of the brake cable?

Type 17 · 21-07-2018 9:22am

The centering screw on top of rhe brake arm is for final tuning, but is often used (in error) for more gross adjustments, which leads to the brake arm on one side becoming too high.

Re-adjust the centering screw until the surcaces ofthe two brake arms around it are roughly level with each other or the screw is roughly level with the brake arm surface (it varies by brake model/generation).

Pull the whole brake assembly around its frame-mount bolt so that the pads are roughly centred over the rim.

Align the pads’ height, placing them as low as possible, to allow for the fact that, on dual-pivot calipers, the pads’ surface tends to creep up towards the tyre as it wears.

g0g · 21-07-2018 9:30am

Type 17 wrote: »

The centering screw on top of rhe brake arm is for final tuning, but is often used (in error) for more gross adjustments, which leads to the brake arm on one side becoming too high.

Re-adjust the centering screw until the surcaces ofthe two brake arms around it are roughly level with each other or the screw is roughly level with the brake arm surface (it varies by brake model/generation).

Pull the whole brake assembly around its frame-mount bolt so that the pads are roughly centred over the rim.

Align the pads’ height, placing them as low as possible, to allow for the fact that, on dual-pivot calipers, the pads’ surface tends to creep up towards the tyre as it wears.

Nice one thanks. Will check centering screw, although it was serviced recently so hopefully that's not the case! Assuming it's not this, your second two points are what I said I did - I rotated it to test if that made a difference plus checked pads was as low as possible. Is that all options then?
(I'm probably missing something obvious here:o)

Type 17 · 21-07-2018 9:37am

Apart from the adjustments above, the only other likely issues are wrong wheel size (700c wheel in a frame meant for 27” wheels) or the wrong caliper (did the bike come from the factory with those calipers?), or a bent front fork (would need to be very bent before this issue arose).

g0g · 21-07-2018 9:41am

Type 17 wrote: »

Apart from the adjustments above, the only other likely issues are wrong wheel size (700c wheel in a frame meant for 27” wheels) or the wrong caliper (did the bike come from the factory with those calipers?), or a bent front fork (would need to be very bent before this issue arose).

Cool thanks. No nothing has changed at all, same wheels since I got the bike (Canyon Roadlite). I fell off it yesterday but I think it was rubbing before that too so don't think that changed anything.

07Lapierre · 22-07-2018 7:56pm

Deano12345 wrote: »

Edit : hit post by mistake

I’ve recently gotten a new bike and it’s fantastic, not really looking to upgrade with anything particular but I have a query about the brakes. It runs disks and my options for wheels are pretty limited it seems, I’d love to go carbon but I can already feel my wallet crying.

There seems to be quite a good selection of second hand carbon wheels for rim brakes, so is it possible to change the hubs to run disks, or am I starting off down a long expensive path doing that ?

A long expensive path I'd say.

Macy0161 · 27-07-2018 9:10am

7 Speed cassette on an 11 Speed Hub - am I right in thinking 4.5mm spacer on top of the 8/9 speed spacer? And then adjust the limit screws? I'm thinking of having the old beater as a permanent turbo bike. It's a smart direct drive turbo, so came with the 8/9/10 speed spacer. Any reason it wouldn't work?

In erg mode, and going on sheldon, I could probably mix and match cassette and chain with the 7 speed chainset and derailuers as I wouldn't have to change gears, but I haven't ruled out a go at zwift, which I think would require having gearing...

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Comments