the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

ec18

Type 17 wrote: »

Crank arm is toast (threads stripped)

would there be anyway to salvage the pedals?

Type 17

ec18 wrote: »

Type 17 wrote: »

Crank arm is toast (threads stripped)

would there be anyway to salvage the pedals?

Hold the crank steady (asisstant or bench vice) and unscrew the pedal spindle whilst pulling hard on the pedal body, to get the spindle to engage with the wreckage of the crank arm’s threads and actually unscrew.
If that doesn’t work, cut/grind away the crank arm to release the pedal.

Macy0161

Looking at power meter options, and specifically crank options (probably the watteam). Both bikes are shimano bottom brackets, compact 11 speed cranksets (one lower end shimano, one ultegra). Moving the cranksets between bikes - would it be as simple as a straight swap. One bike is a BB71 the other BB86?

I've tried working out the Bottom bracket standards myself, but just confusing myself and just need a straight answer which google isn't giving me! I'm learning the maintenance side, but bottom bracket differences looks beyond me at this point!

Macy0161

Just giving this a bit of a bump for help...

If I'm right about it being a straight swap between RS500 and 6800 cranksets (both compact, and I think the bb match), am I missing something in thinking that if I was swapping left only cranks between bikes (say for a stages/ 4iii left only), there isn't a whole extra to just swapping the entire crankset (for dual leg options)?

More wear on the crankset that's used most, but am I creating anymore trouble for myself down the line?

ec18

If I want do I need to get a new set of cranks do i need to get a set that are compatible with the bottom bracket or or bottom bracket and cranks?

and a second question what considerations do I need to look at if I wanted to upgrade the brakes with larger disc rotors?

seamus

The bottom bracket stuff is annoying alright. If you want to keep your current bottom bracket, then your cranks need to be compatible with it.

There's a lot of cross-compatibility, especially between Shimano and SRAM, but they won't really tell you about it and will "officially" say that you should only use SRAM/Shimano parts together.

Bottom brackets are fairly cheap though, so if you like a particular pair of cranks, then just get the bottom bracket that goes with them.

Of course, you then need to get the correct bottom bracket for your frame...

magicbastarder

sounds easier just to buy a new bike if you ask me.

ec18

magicbastarder wrote: »

sounds easier just to buy a new bike if you ask me.

Yup it would be but I'm using the bike in question as a learning bike to upgrade myself to learn and try things on. My main bike is a different one

Milk_Tray

Can someone explain Tyres -- I see alot of people talking tubulars etc on TT bikes.. I dont see the advantage though? No inner tube but if you get a flat your goosed?

And do Carbon deep rims have a shelf life with the braking contact area wearing down over time?

magicbastarder

Milk_Tray wrote: »

And do Carbon deep rims have a shelf life with the braking contact area wearing down over time?

Metal rims do too though.

dahat

If my winter bike is running 11 speed 11 25 and my turbo has an 11 28 on it can I use the same bike on the turbo or will it need indexing and/or damage the new chain?

magicbastarder

possibly need indexing, i guess? i think a similar question came up in one of those ask gcn tech videos in the last week or two.

edit: 2:08 in:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAIasoSdjEw

Type 17

Another issue with two cassettes/one chain might be uneven wear:

New chains skip on excessively worn cassettes.
Worn chains wear down new cassettes quickly.

With those points in mind, it's a good idea to change the chain early enough to be able to keep the cassette(s) going with the new chain.

In your case, you should keep a particular eye on your chain wear and change your chain regularly, as you'll have two (relatively expensive, 11-speed) cassettes on the go.

Type 17

Sounds like the pads are wearing, and are creeping down the rim (normal), causing the formation of a lip along their bottom edge, which is getting stuck under the rim. This can also happen if the rim has a deep enough wear-line on the brake track.

Is the straddle cable a single piece of cable with a triangular yoke, or is the yoke a round shape with half of the straddle cable attached to it? If it's the first type, you can alter the angle of the straddle cable (lower gives more power, but too low fouls the mudguards, etc).

I doubt that 5mm in the axle spacing will affect the brakes, but if the newer (130mm hub) wheel rim is a lot wider, it could mean the straddle cable is now too low, as the arms would be swung back further.

Type 17

Weepsie wrote: »

I think I could cut a few mm off the cable housing to get the straddle yoke higher. I can live with lower stopping power if it means no break rub, far less adustment. It's the slow going bike.

I know there's nothing wrong with Canti's. Decades of use, millions of users show that. I'm just crap at adjusting them and any video I watch seems to leave me bamboozled.

I'm using V-Brake pads rather than canti pads too, so assumed that might have a minor difference in toe in etc.

To get the round-type yoke higher, you'll need to add some cable housing to the side that covers half of the straddle cable.

The simplest way to adjust canti's is to tighten the barrel adjusters all the way, so the pads so are touching the rim, and then adjust the pads (with some toe-in if required) and then loosen the barrel adjusters to regain the correct cable-travel.

You're lucky to be using V-Brake pads - two of my bikes have the older stud-type pads, which are a real pain to set up.
Additionally, many cheaper cantilever sets (not mine) don't even have adjuster screws for the return-spring tensions, and so are almost impossible to centre.

dahat

dahat wrote: »

If my winter bike is running 11 speed 11 25 and my turbo has an 11 28 on it can I use the same bike on the turbo or will it need indexing and/or damage the new chain?

They are both 11 speed cassettes so I don't see a problem other than the cog size.

Basically I presume stay in the same gears which are equal or lower to what's on the bike because the chain will overstretch the rear derailleur if you if you go too high up the range.

I stand to be corrected though.

BTW I use a 10 speed bike in the turbo with some old wheel with a cassette that was from a Claris bike, not sure either 7 or 8 speed I think. I've never actually looked at it. It shifts fine but I can't use its easiest (biggest) cog on the rear......Other than that its all oxo....

CramCycle

Any recommendations for mudguards for a 29er?

Icyseanfitz

going buying this cube frame in the next week or two to build it up.
I'm thinking of putting a coil shock into it with some offset bushings and a 150mm fork to slacken it out a little bit. as long as i find a coil shock thats 200x57 i should be grand right?
was thinking something like this RS vivid although ive no idea of what strength spring to purchase.

Milk_Tray

do upgraded tyres make much of a difference? Hearing a few people mentioning grand prix 4000's and they are a 'must have',... are they really worth getting a set ?

Type 17

Jockey wheels - are the BBB Rollerboys any good?

Decent tyres do make a big difference, but correct pressures are as important, no matter how bad/good your current tyres are.
If your current tyres are 'good', but you don't feel the comfort/grip/confidence, try a page like http://www.dorkypantsr.us/bike-tire-pressure-calculator.html before changing them.

Wishbone Ash

Milk_Tray wrote: »

do upgraded tyres make much of a difference? ....

A difference in what way - speed/rolling resistance, puncture resistance, grip etc. ??

07Lapierre

Milk_Tray wrote: »

do upgraded tyres make much of a difference? Hearing a few people mentioning grand prix 4000's and they are a 'must have',... are they really worth getting a set ?

I have Conti GP4000 on 3 bikes and i love them. Ive been using them for years and i rarely get punctures (when i do get one, it's usually a sign that the tyre needs to be replaced)

If your happy with your current tyres, dont change, but if your looking for a recommendation, then Conti's won't disappoint.

CramCycle

I was using my Rapid Robs at a little above 20psi. Pumped them up today to 40psi. An interesting but fun commute where it was alot more bouncy but on occasion a sensation came through the saddle that I am pretty sure I would have to pay good money to get done by someone else :pac:

Milk_Tray

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

A difference in what way - speed/rolling resistance, puncture resistance, grip etc. ??

Speed, & grip Id be most interested in

LollipopJimmy

Anybody know if 105 levers operate perfectly with Ultegra derailleurs?

I want to move my Scott Speedster from Sora 9spd to 11spd. I have Ultegra 6800 Derailleurs and brakes and was going to pick up 105 5800 for the rest given the price difference and this being the bad weather bike.

Get In There

My new bike has tubeless tyres. I'm a little bit unclear what needs to be done if I get a flat mid ride? I ordered tubeless sealant at the time of ordering the bike but i'm afraid i'm not sure where it comes in? Feeling rather silly posting this question!

CramCycle

Get In There wrote: »

My new bike has tubeless tyres. I'm a little bit unclear what needs to be done if I get a flat mid ride? I ordered tubeless sealant at the time of ordering the bike but i'm afraid i'm not sure where it comes in? Feeling rather silly posting this question!

I think the idea is that if you keep pedalling, you may lose pressure but it will seal the puncture and you can continue on your way.

steamsey

The idea behind tubeless is that it'll seal small punctures and you can reinflate with pump. If you get a flat mid ride, pump. If that doesn't work throw in the spare tube you carry when you are running tubeless tyres

Wishbone Ash

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

Anybody know if 105 levers operate perfectly with Ultegra derailleurs?...

They do - I have 105 shifters with an Ultegra RD on one of my bikes.

Icyseanfitz

looking to get a 160mm 27.5" fork at the moment, came across this lyrik rtc3 on ebay. Anyone with a keen eye tell me what year it is? looks to be a great deal (as long as customs dont kill me)