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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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magicbastarder

so - carbon newbie here. what torque setting is typical for the bolt attaching the brake calipers to the frame?

magicbastarder

i've just picked up a pair of zondas and a new groupset. i suspect i'll soon be putting the mb in "mb's 'no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread".

Paul_Mc1988

Macy0161 wrote:

Ordered the cassette and spacers, so we'll see. Loving erg mode so far - only have to change gear for spin downs as I'm spinning out!

I love doing sweetspot training on zwift in erg mode. Boosted my fitness higher than its ever been.

Macy0161

Paul_Mc1988 wrote:

If all your using is erg mode it should be fine. If free riding in zwift im not sure how accurate the shifting would be. Might as well give it a try.

Ordered the cassette and spacers, so we'll see. Loving erg mode so far - only have to change gear for spin downs as I'm spinning out!

Paul_Mc1988

Macy0161 wrote:

7 Speed cassette on an 11 Speed Hub - am I right in thinking 4.5mm spacer on top of the 8/9 speed spacer? And then adjust the limit screws? I'm thinking of having the old beater as a permanent turbo bike. It's a smart direct drive turbo, so came with the 8/9/10 speed spacer. Any reason it wouldn't work?

Macy0161 wrote:

In erg mode, and going on sheldon, I could probably mix and match cassette and chain with the 7 speed chainset and derailuers as I wouldn't have to change gears, but I haven't ruled out a go at zwift, which I think would require having gearing...

If all your using is erg mode it should be fine. If free riding in zwift im not sure how accurate the shifting would be. Might as well give it a try.

Macy0161

7 Speed cassette on an 11 Speed Hub - am I right in thinking 4.5mm spacer on top of the 8/9 speed spacer? And then adjust the limit screws? I'm thinking of having the old beater as a permanent turbo bike. It's a smart direct drive turbo, so came with the 8/9/10 speed spacer. Any reason it wouldn't work?

In erg mode, and going on sheldon, I could probably mix and match cassette and chain with the 7 speed chainset and derailuers as I wouldn't have to change gears, but I haven't ruled out a go at zwift, which I think would require having gearing...

07Lapierre

Deano12345 wrote: »

Edit : hit post by mistake

I’ve recently gotten a new bike and it’s fantastic, not really looking to upgrade with anything particular but I have a query about the brakes. It runs disks and my options for wheels are pretty limited it seems, I’d love to go carbon but I can already feel my wallet crying.

There seems to be quite a good selection of second hand carbon wheels for rim brakes, so is it possible to change the hubs to run disks, or am I starting off down a long expensive path doing that ?

A long expensive path I'd say.

g0g

Type 17 wrote: »

Apart from the adjustments above, the only other likely issues are wrong wheel size (700c wheel in a frame meant for 27” wheels) or the wrong caliper (did the bike come from the factory with those calipers?), or a bent front fork (would need to be very bent before this issue arose).

Cool thanks. No nothing has changed at all, same wheels since I got the bike (Canyon Roadlite). I fell off it yesterday but I think it was rubbing before that too so don't think that changed anything.

Type 17

Apart from the adjustments above, the only other likely issues are wrong wheel size (700c wheel in a frame meant for 27” wheels) or the wrong caliper (did the bike come from the factory with those calipers?), or a bent front fork (would need to be very bent before this issue arose).

g0g

Type 17 wrote: »

The centering screw on top of rhe brake arm is for final tuning, but is often used (in error) for more gross adjustments, which leads to the brake arm on one side becoming too high.

Re-adjust the centering screw until the surcaces ofthe two brake arms around it are roughly level with each other or the screw is roughly level with the brake arm surface (it varies by brake model/generation).

Pull the whole brake assembly around its frame-mount bolt so that the pads are roughly centred over the rim.

Align the pads’ height, placing them as low as possible, to allow for the fact that, on dual-pivot calipers, the pads’ surface tends to creep up towards the tyre as it wears.

Nice one thanks. Will check centering screw, although it was serviced recently so hopefully that's not the case! Assuming it's not this, your second two points are what I said I did - I rotated it to test if that made a difference plus checked pads was as low as possible. Is that all options then?
(I'm probably missing something obvious here:o)

Type 17

The centering screw on top of rhe brake arm is for final tuning, but is often used (in error) for more gross adjustments, which leads to the brake arm on one side becoming too high.

Re-adjust the centering screw until the surcaces ofthe two brake arms around it are roughly level with each other or the screw is roughly level with the brake arm surface (it varies by brake model/generation).

Pull the whole brake assembly around its frame-mount bolt so that the pads are roughly centred over the rim.

Align the pads’ height, placing them as low as possible, to allow for the fact that, on dual-pivot calipers, the pads’ surface tends to creep up towards the tyre as it wears.

g0g

Too lazy to read entire thread and when I google I get loads of different answers.

Shimano 105 10 speed front brake bad is rubbing tyre on one side. Fixed it before but can't remember how.
1) Checked wheel looks to be sitting correctly in the fork and spinning straight
2) Tried just "rotating" it slightly around the thingy that mounts it to the fork but no luck
3) Pad looks to be as low as it'll go in the brake unit already

So I'm guessing it's that screw thing at the top of the brake or maybe the twisty yoke at the end of the brake cable?

Icyseanfitz

Hey guys, trying to fix up a gt sanction 2014 for a friend. I replaced the bushings in the i-drive pivot near the bb as there was play in it, cant find play in any of the other bearings or bushing in the frame.

When the rear brake is locked or used heavily there is a massive vibration up through the frame, regardless of positioning on the bike. it starts at the rear but is so strong it can be felt up through the bars.

The bearings in the rear wheel have no play and ive tightened the axle way up. I tried a different wheel with a different rotor (that i know to be good) and it slightly reduced the vibration, im putting that down to bigger volume tyre though.

I also tried a different brake and that made zero difference, ive clamped the caliper bolts way past recommended torque no difference. I also over tightened the headset (bearings need replacing but theres no play in it) to see if that could be it but no.

I fix up mtb's for a living part time so im not completely clueless (i think Big Grin ) but this is completely throwing me, ive checked everything to the best of my abilities and ive found no solution. Anyone here have any ideas? I would appreciate anything at this stage.

Icyseanfitz

well lads, question re chainline here. I have sram eagle gxp on my cube and i am finding the chainline for the largest sprocket is pretty crap, i am trying to figure out how to improve it. My crankset is sram eagle non boost with what i assume is a 6mm offset chainring with a 49mm chainline, should work grand with my 142 rear but is a little out as i have a wheels manufacturing pressfit bb that sticks out past the bb shell on either side a little.
Is the any chainring i can get with a larger offset than 6mm to push the chainline in towards the frame a little? i thought id be able to just stick some spacers behind the chainring but with the cinch system its pretty impossible.

CramCycle

magicbastarder wrote: »

the mb is actually short for magicbastarder...

I damn well knew it

magicbastarder

c.p.w.g.w wrote: »

Not mb related but road bike

the mb is actually short for magicbastarder...

c.p.w.g.w

Not mb related but road bike...Looking for advice re chain lubricant? What is the best type and brand for a road bike, typical spins are no longer than 2 hours, no hill climbing yet.

Cheers

Deano12345

Edit : hit post by mistake

I’ve recently gotten a new bike and it’s fantastic, not really looking to upgrade with anything particular but I have a query about the brakes. It runs disks and my options for wheels are pretty limited it seems, I’d love to go carbon but I can already feel my wallet crying.

There seems to be quite a good selection of second hand carbon wheels for rim brakes, so is it possible to change the hubs to run disks, or am I starting off down a long expensive path doing that ?

LollipopJimmy

CramCycle wrote: »

Is it this one : http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/kmc-x11-super-light-11-speed-chain/rp-prod57322

or this one:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/kmc-x11-el-11-speed-chain/rp-prod132778

and I presume there is no difference in the gold / silver versions

I went for the SL version, I got the gold and my buddy got the silver, no difference, well apart from the colour.

CramCycle

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I eat through Shimano and Sram chains for some reason. I do meticulously maintain and I have thought that maybe they don't like being cleaned the whole time. I then switched to a KMC Gold chain and I sold the chain with a groupset after about 7k kms with no wear showing on it. On the new bike I've just rolled over 3k kms and the Shimano chain needs replacing so going KMC again. Expensive chain but cheaper in the long run

Is it this one : http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/kmc-x11-super-light-11-speed-chain/rp-prod57322

or this one:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/kmc-x11-el-11-speed-chain/rp-prod132778

and I presume there is no difference in the gold / silver versions

07Lapierre

coach22 wrote: »

I was trying to remove the front brake caliper on my road bike. Stuck a 5mm allen key into the recessed bolt at the bottom of the fork and seem to have rounded the allen bolt now. Any tips on how to remove it?

Remove the front wheel.

Put the Allen key into the recessed bolt and apply as much pressure as you can.

With your other hand, turn the brake caliper in an anti-clockwise direction and see if you car unscrew it from the bolt.

Thud

coach22 wrote: »

I was trying to remove the front brake caliper on my road bike. Stuck a 5mm allen key into the recessed bolt at the bottom of the fork and seem to have rounded the allen bolt now. Any tips on how to remove it?

Try an elastic band between allen key and bolt first if that fails:
https://www.aldi.ie/workzone-damaged-screw-remover-set/p/096188205481300

LollipopJimmy

dahat wrote: »

I'm the same with chains, go through them like nothing else despite a good cleaning routine.

KMC next for me as well, I just can't be that hard on chains.

My mate had the same problem with Shimano chains and no issue since going KMC. Now to add to that he's 105kg and I'm not a million miles off him so I'm sure this adds to the quick wear

coach22

I was trying to remove the front brake caliper on my road bike. Stuck a 5mm allen key into the recessed bolt at the bottom of the fork and seem to have rounded the allen bolt now. Any tips on how to remove it?

dahat

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I eat through Shimano and Sram chains for some reason. I do meticulously maintain and I have thought that maybe they don't like being cleaned the whole time. I then switched to a KMC Gold chain and I sold the chain with a groupset after about 7k kms with no wear showing on it. On the new bike I've just rolled over 3k kms and the Shimano chain needs replacing so going KMC again. Expensive chain but cheaper in the long run

I'm the same with chains, go through them like nothing else despite a good cleaning routine.

KMC next for me as well, I just can't be that hard on chains.

LollipopJimmy

Weepsie wrote: »

I use PG1030 and PG1050 SRAM chains mostly. Wear fairly well even with my soso cleaning regime. I've a few bikes though, so probably only doing a fraction on some that others are doing on chain.

I really think soso cleaning for the Sram and Shimano chains is the way to go. My problem is I go out in all weathers and mostly by the coast so picking up bits of sand and I like to get rid of that as soon as I get back. Sand mixed with lube is essentially a grinding paste

CramCycle

Will try the KMC next

LollipopJimmy

I eat through Shimano and Sram chains for some reason. I do meticulously maintain and I have thought that maybe they don't like being cleaned the whole time. I then switched to a KMC Gold chain and I sold the chain with a groupset after about 7k kms with no wear showing on it. On the new bike I've just rolled over 3k kms and the Shimano chain needs replacing so going KMC again. Expensive chain but cheaper in the long run

Ray Bloody Purchase

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

I got a new phone lately. Huawei P20. It doesn't seem to stay connected to my Garmin 520 at all. I have to pair and unpair it to get it to upload. I usually have to do it a few times before it joins up.

Anyone else have problems with something like this?

I got this sorted. Sort of. When i open Garmin connect it connects to the phone. It doesn't seem to stay connected once i get out of the app though.

magicbastarder

both times i've changed at .75 - on my third chain now - and it's running fine. i've seen a few comments about changing at 0.5% on an 11 speed though.