the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

iwillhtfu

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

Thanks, not around there but I'll give my LBS a try, will pick up some spares and cleaning stuff so hopefully they will throw it in

You'll get a nut and washer in woodies or halfords you'll probably have to cut it shorter I've done similar myself I think it was an M5. To be honest though you're better off buying another set of cleats you're going to buy them at some stage again anyway.

Macy0161

LBS sorted me with the nut (I found the washer) when I lost one. Wouldn't take money for it either in my case.

iwillhtfu

Macy0161 wrote: »

LBS sorted me with the nut (I found the washer) when I lost one. Wouldn't take money for it either in my case.

I bet they'd have taken €20 for 6 spare screw and washers and a new set of cleats

Borderfox

Deleted User wrote: »

Wouldn't be too knowledgeable about gear ratios and tyre kicking has begun for Miss Enfildaes bike to work thats due up again in a little while. Most we looked are standard compact but a few that have caught her eye have been 48/32 which is going to give you a lower highest and lowest gear than 50/34. Would there be a massive difference ? I'm assuming the gaps between gears would be less too on say a 9 speed 28/11 cassette and that the higher gears might get more use than on a 50/34 chainring?

Also in the event of wanting to change from a 48/32 to a compact what changes would need to be made to the front derailleur or other areas??

Kind of off topic for this thread but are 48/32 chainrings becoming more common? Used to only see them on Felt bikes I think in the last year or two.

I have a 46-30 setup from Absolute Black, loving the difference it makes on hills and doesn't hold me back on the flat either

P_1

Odd one. I removed the back wheel from the fixie and now I can't seem to get it back on. There are two nuts that are designed to keep the axle in place that now seem to be too wide to fit back on. Any idea what sort of tools I need to move these nuts?

I'd rather not have to walk around to the lbs looking like a tool carrying the frame and the back wheel.

CramCycle

P_1 wrote: »

Odd one. I removed the back wheel from the fixie and now I can't seem to get it back on. There are two nuts that are designed to keep the axle in place that now seem to be too wide to fit back on. Any idea what sort of tools I need to move these nuts?

I'd rather not have to walk around to the lbs looking like a tool carrying the frame and the back wheel.

Are these the ones that hold the axle evenly on both sides? Normally you can rotate them to be in the right plane but to be honest I would just remove them. Take off the nuts that hold the wheel and you should be able to just slide or screw them off.

If this makes no sense, put up a pic.

P_1

CramCycle wrote: »

Are these the ones that hold the axle evenly on both sides? Normally you can rotate them to be in the right plane but to be honest I would just remove them. Take off the nuts that hold the wheel and you should be able to just slide or screw them off.

If this makes no sense, put up a pic.

I've decided to treat myself to a new wheelset and tyres, the old wheels were looking a bit rusty and 23mm tyres are too narrow to get around town comfortably.

Milk_Tray

I have a tri bike with a 10 speed cassette (11/28) on it at the mo.

I have a new set of carbon rims with a 11 speed cassette (11/25)

First question: can I use these new wheels or will I need spacers or something to make it work?

Second question: I have a spare 10 speed cassette (11/28) what would the main difference be be in the one I have at the moment (11/25) would the 28 just be a bit easier on climbs and the 25 more for flats/down hills?

Thanks folks

07Lapierre

Milk_Tray wrote: »

I have a tri bike with a 10 speed cassette (11/28) on it at the mo.

I have a new set of carbon rims with a 11 speed cassette (11/25)

First question: can I use these new wheels or will I need spacers or something to make it work?

Second question: I have a spare 10 speed cassette (11/28) what would the main difference be be in the one I have at the moment (11/25) would the 28 just be a bit easier on climbs and the 25 more for flats/down hills?

Thanks folks

Yes...you can use your 10 speed cassette on your 11 speed freehub, with a spacer.

The 28 will give you a lower gear,which should make climbing easier.

If you fit the 28/11 cassette, you may need a new chain,as your existing one may be too short.

Milk_Tray

07Lapierre wrote: »

Yes...you can use your 10 speed cassette on your 11 speed freehub, with a spacer.

The 28 will give you a lower gear,which should make climbing easier.

If you fit the 28/11 cassette, you may need a new chain,as your existing one may be too short.

Thanks. Could I use the 11 speed cassette wheels as is though ? Currently it’s on spare wheels with the 10 speed but I want to know can I throw in the carbon wheels with the 11 cassette as is?

07Lapierre

Milk_Tray wrote: »

Thanks. Could I use the 11 speed cassette wheels as is though ? Currently it’s on spare wheels with the 10 speed but I want to know can I throw in the carbon wheels with the 11 cassette as is?

?? You want to use an 11speed cassette on a bike with a 10speed groupset? Am I reading you correctly?

Milk_Tray

07Lapierre wrote: »

?? You want to use an 11speed cassette on a bike with a 10speed groupset? Am I reading you correctly?

Was hoping but I’m guessing it’s not possible lol

Would I need to remove the 11 speed, for a new 10 speed and spacers on that other set I have yeah

07Lapierre

Milk_Tray wrote: »

Was hoping but I’m guessing it’s not possible lol

Would I need to remove the 11 speed, for a new 10 speed and spacers on that other set I have yeah

You have two options:

1: if your bike has a 10 speed groupset, you can use your 11speed wheels, with a 10 speed cassette and spacer.

2: buy a new bike with an 11 speed groupset.

(Yes....10 speed cassette and spacer is your best option.)

Roberto_gas

Lads..a noob question...what items do i need for maintenance of chain of a daily commute bike...? Any other parts which shud be taken care of as well ? Its a new bike.

07Lapierre

07Lapierre wrote: »

You have two options:

1: if your bike has a 10 speed groupset, you can use your 11speed wheels, with a 10 speed cassette and spacer.

2: buy a new bike with an 11 speed groupset.

(Yes....10 speed cassette and spacer is your best option.)

Out of curiosity, what would happen there if the OP used an 11 cassette on a 10 speed group set and shifters? Could you even index it to use 10 of the 11 with or without spacers ?

07Lapierre

Deleted User wrote: »

Out of curiosity, what would happen there if the OP used an 11 cassette on a 10 speed group set and shifters? Could you even index it to use 10 of the 11 with or without spacers ?

Well, it might get you home in an emergency, but it wouldn't index correctly. An 11speed chain is narrowed than a 10 speed one and the spacing between each sprocket on a 10 cassette is different to an 11 cassette.

dahat

If a chain is sized to a 52/36 & 11/25 set up, can i switch wheels to 11/28 for a race with full confidence?

CramCycle

Roberto_gas wrote: »

Lads..a noob question...what items do i need for maintenance of chain of a daily commute bike...? Any other parts which shud be taken care of as well ? Its a new bike.

Very little, oil for wet weather, wipe down every now and again. If it is getting very grimey, degreaser and reoil.

Type 17

Roberto_gas wrote: »

Lads..a noob question...what items do i need for maintenance of chain of a daily commute bike...? Any other parts which shud be taken care of as well ? Its a new bike.

I service a lot of neglected commuter bikes, so if you have a new one, here's some pointers to avoid killing it too quickly:

Lube/clean chain as CramCycle mentions, lube some other items as well (not necessarily as often as the chain, but don't ignore them completely):

Pivots of the front derailleur (especially if not protected from rear wheel spray by full-length mudguards)
Pivots and jockey wheels of the rear derailleur
Barrel adjusters on rear derailleur, and top of down-tube of frame
Gear cable guides under bottom bracket shell
Brake and gear cables (slacken cables by quick-releasing brakes and by shifting to big ring/sprocket and then releasing the cable without pedalling) - unhook the housings from the frame-stops and then wipe down the inner wire and lube the usually-hidden sections.

Also, if your brakes make a "rustling" sound in the dry (and the pads aren't fully worn through), there may be particles of grit embedded in the brake pads - remove the wheels and flick them out with a pick or blade - grit like this will wear your rims out more quickly.

Pump the tyres regularly - all vehicle tyres lose air over time, but bicycle tyres have minimal air at higher pressures, so a small volume loss means a big drop in pressure, and soft tyres mean increased rolling resistance, increased tyre & tube wear, and increased chance of rim-damage & pinch-punctures. Ideally, pump them every two weeks and once a month at a minimum.

Lagnagoushee

Hi,
I need a recommendation for someone who can:
-remove the current spray paint from my steel Colnago.
- remove and treat remaining rust on frame and chrome joins.
-spray etching coat, primer and top coat on chrome forks.
-spray paint frame and forks with primer and finishing coats of paint.
I’m in Waterford but can travel.
Thanks for your help.

jamesd

dahat wrote: »

If a chain is sized to a 52/36 & 11/25 set up, can i switch wheels to 11/28 for a race with full confidence?

It would need adjustment and maybe the might bé to short too.

07Lapierre

Lagnagoushee wrote: »

Hi,
I need a recommendation for someone who can:
-remove the current spray paint from my steel Colnago.
- remove and treat remaining rust on frame and chrome joins.
-spray etching coat, primer and top coat on chrome forks.
-spray paint frame and forks with primer and finishing coats of paint.
I’m in Waterford but can travel.
Thanks for your help.

You could try www.bicycledesigncentre.com

I’ve never used them,but I’ve heard good reportsz

Ray Bloody Purchase

I'm thinking of buying a powerwasher for the patio and to wash all the sh1te off my bike.

Is it bad to powerwash the chain?

ec18

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

I'm thinking of buying a powerwasher for the patio and to wash all the sh1te off my bike.

Is it bad to powerwash the chain?

The chain is probably alright but what I've read about the downsides of using power washers is that it can strip the grease out of the internal bearings

Type 17

It’s bad to powerwash the whole bike - it’s so easy to force water into the lubricated parts (hubs, freehub, headset, bottom bracket, pedals, brake calipers, derailleurs and brake/gear cables) and damage them, that it’s not worth trying to powerwash a bike.
PS: it’s easy to clean a bike with a few brushes and a hosepipe with a gentle spray-head, and it’s much quicker than having to disassemble and re-grease everything

Here’s a good vid on washing a bike:
https://youtu.be/B2sKhSDrugE

07Lapierre

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

I'm thinking of buying a powerwasher for the patio and to wash all the sh1te off my bike.

Is it bad to powerwash the chain?

DO NOT POWERWASH YOUR BIKE!

(Bucket of soapy water and a sponge is more than adequate)

8valve

Lagnagoushee wrote: »

Hi,
I need a recommendation for someone who can:
-remove the current spray paint from my steel Colnago.
- remove and treat remaining rust on frame and chrome joins.
-spray etching coat, primer and top coat on chrome forks.
-spray paint frame and forks with primer and finishing coats of paint.
I’m in Waterford but can travel.
Thanks for your help.

you will need to source somewhere yourself to gently blast your frameset (I know that's a paradox-glass blast rather than sandblast-less abrasive on the frame) .

For paint, you will look long and hard before finding a better man than Davy Pickard Jr in Westside Business park.

It will NOT be cheap, though, as his work is of a very high standard.

Ahhhh for forks sake!

How do you know what PSI should be in my tyres? It doesn't say it on the rim. It's a hybrid bike (700 x 35C) if that matters. I don't want to burst the tyres but I also don't want them under inflated. I'll just go to my local Esso and set the pump to whatever psi and fill the tyres.

magicbastarder

it'd be very unusual for the tyre not to have a pressure guide on them - but your best bet is to get a floor pump (you might be lucky and get one of them still in lidl - they're only 7 quid) and IIRC they have a pressure gauge on them. at 35c, you'd probably be aiming for about 50PSI.

magicbastarder

any suggestions as to what's best for cleaning old adhesive crud off handlebars before refitting/rewrapping? or is it worth the effort?