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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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Ray Bloody Purchase

I got a new phone lately. Huawei P20. It doesn't seem to stay connected to my Garmin 520 at all. I have to pair and unpair it to get it to upload. I usually have to do it a few times before it joins up.

Anyone else have problems with something like this?

Borderfox

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

I got a new phone lately. Huawei P20. It doesn't seem to stay connected to my Garmin 520 at all. I have to pair and unpair it to get it to upload. I usually have to do it a few times before it joins up.

Anyone else have problems with something like this?

Usual answer is to factory reset the Garmin unit and start again.

[Deleted User]

Can't recall if I asked this before but now that I'm off the bike for a few weeks I've time to sit and look at them and get things done like see to the run around bike and get it all nice and shiny again in it's twilight years.

It's got some badly tattered shimano/brand decals on the chainstays and some other places but paint work is fine over all. I'm of a mind to removes those altogether but how some parts will just peel away but the rest is still stuck on fast? Thinking hair dryer and and something plastic that wont chip the paint?

saccades

Hair dryer and WD-40 works well.

North of 32

My rear gears are slipping under load. I bought the bike in May and have been only been doing easy road riding - my research suggests this is fairly normal for new bikes after cables stretch.

The shop where I bought the bike is looking for 40-60 euro to inspect/adjust/repair. The bike had its first inspection about 2 weeks ago and they charged me half price; 20 euro because it was the first inspection. I have not done much riding in the last 2 weeks. I'm new to bikes but I reckon they should've picked up on this. I think it's really bad form on their part.

Is there anything I can do myself, straightforwardly, or should I look for a new bike shop? I don't have a problem spending money, but if I'm going to pay I expect a thorough check and not someone to grease my seatpost and tighten my breaks for 40 euro.

07Lapierre

North of 32 wrote: »

My rear gears are slipping under load. I bought the bike in May and have been only been doing easy road riding - my research suggests this is fairly normal for new bikes after cables stretch.

The shop where I bought the bike is looking for 40-60 euro to inspect/adjust/repair. The bike had its first inspection about 2 weeks ago and they charged me half price; 20 euro because it was the first inspection. I have not done much riding in the last 2 weeks. I'm new to bikes but I reckon they should've picked up on this. I think it's really bad form on their part.

Is there anything I can do myself, straightforwardly, or should I look for a new bike shop? I don't have a problem spending money, but if I'm going to pay I expect a thorough check and not someone to grease my seatpost and tighten my breaks for 40 euro.

Was it a 2nd hand bike you bought? Surprised that the shop charged you for the first service.

North of 32

07Lapierre wrote: »

Was it a 2nd hand bike you bought? Surprised that the shop charged you for the first service.

I bought it new. I know 1000euro isn't a lot in the world of bikes but I thought they would've thrown in a free service for that amount of money, or at least picked up on the slipping gears after charging me. Surely someone experienced would've sussed it? Maybe I'm being harsh.

07Lapierre

Yeah that's very poor service from the shop.

Sounds like your gears just need to be adjusted..Watch this video..itll show you how to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bbk5RcH0bbQ

iwillhtfu

07Lapierre wrote: »

Yeah that's very poor service from the shop.

That's piss poor service every bike shop I know always gets the new owner to come back after a 1-200km to do a check over on the bike with no charge.

I wouldn't be going back there OP and I'd be inclined to go back tell them they're a right shower.

As said the gears probably just need to be indexed correctly. You may get away with just using the barrel adjuster.

North of 32

07Lapierre wrote: »

Yeah that's very poor service from the shop.

Sounds like your gears just need to be adjusted..Watch this video..itll show you how to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bbk5RcH0bbQ

iwillhtfu wrote: »

That's piss poor service every bike shop I know always gets the new owner to come back after a 1-200km to do a check over on the bike with no charge.

I wouldn't be going back there OP and I'd be inclined to go back tell them they're a right shower.

As said the gears probably just need to be indexed correctly. You may get away with just using the barrel adjuster.

I won't be going back. After watching that video I reckon a turn or two of the barrel adjuster might be sufficient. I'll give it a go before my next spin.

[Deleted User]

iwillhtfu wrote: »

That's piss poor service every bike shop I know always gets the new owner to come back after a 1-200km to do a check over on the bike with no charge.

I wouldn't be going back there OP and I'd be inclined to go back tell them they're a right shower.

As said the gears probably just need to be indexed correctly. You may get away with just using the barrel adjuster.

+1 Any LBS worth their salt will tell someone to come back after 6 weeks or 200km whether it be a 1k road bike or run around that cost 200 euro to make adjustments after bedding in and do it for free. Hell even Halfords do it.

CramCycle

I didn't go back to my LBS for the free service (quicker to do myself) but turned up 10months later with another issue that I hadn't the time or skill to do. Owner remembered me, no labour charge and waved the 20euro in parts when he remembered at the till I hadn't been in. Do my best since then to buy bits now and again from them, although they are so busy I doubt they need it. A good LBS is worth their weight in gold IMO.

CramCycle

What are peoples views on acceptable levels of chain wear on an 11 speed chain. My last one was over .75 before I changed. I got a measure thing and thought I had felt a slip and realised it was well past the 0.75 wear indicator.

Now I have the indicator, my current chain has just passed 0.5. Are 11 speed chains OK upto 0.75 or are you safer changing early.

Final question, what chain do people recommend. I have always found SRAM great and currently use the 1130. I was considering using their X1 chain as its meant to be harder wearing but is that just marketing BS.

magicbastarder

both times i've changed at .75 - on my third chain now - and it's running fine. i've seen a few comments about changing at 0.5% on an 11 speed though.

Ray Bloody Purchase

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

I got a new phone lately. Huawei P20. It doesn't seem to stay connected to my Garmin 520 at all. I have to pair and unpair it to get it to upload. I usually have to do it a few times before it joins up.

Anyone else have problems with something like this?

I got this sorted. Sort of. When i open Garmin connect it connects to the phone. It doesn't seem to stay connected once i get out of the app though.

LollipopJimmy

I eat through Shimano and Sram chains for some reason. I do meticulously maintain and I have thought that maybe they don't like being cleaned the whole time. I then switched to a KMC Gold chain and I sold the chain with a groupset after about 7k kms with no wear showing on it. On the new bike I've just rolled over 3k kms and the Shimano chain needs replacing so going KMC again. Expensive chain but cheaper in the long run

CramCycle

Will try the KMC next

LollipopJimmy

Weepsie wrote: »

I use PG1030 and PG1050 SRAM chains mostly. Wear fairly well even with my soso cleaning regime. I've a few bikes though, so probably only doing a fraction on some that others are doing on chain.

I really think soso cleaning for the Sram and Shimano chains is the way to go. My problem is I go out in all weathers and mostly by the coast so picking up bits of sand and I like to get rid of that as soon as I get back. Sand mixed with lube is essentially a grinding paste

dahat

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I eat through Shimano and Sram chains for some reason. I do meticulously maintain and I have thought that maybe they don't like being cleaned the whole time. I then switched to a KMC Gold chain and I sold the chain with a groupset after about 7k kms with no wear showing on it. On the new bike I've just rolled over 3k kms and the Shimano chain needs replacing so going KMC again. Expensive chain but cheaper in the long run

I'm the same with chains, go through them like nothing else despite a good cleaning routine.

KMC next for me as well, I just can't be that hard on chains.

coach22

I was trying to remove the front brake caliper on my road bike. Stuck a 5mm allen key into the recessed bolt at the bottom of the fork and seem to have rounded the allen bolt now. Any tips on how to remove it?

LollipopJimmy

dahat wrote: »

I'm the same with chains, go through them like nothing else despite a good cleaning routine.

KMC next for me as well, I just can't be that hard on chains.

My mate had the same problem with Shimano chains and no issue since going KMC. Now to add to that he's 105kg and I'm not a million miles off him so I'm sure this adds to the quick wear

Thud

coach22 wrote: »

I was trying to remove the front brake caliper on my road bike. Stuck a 5mm allen key into the recessed bolt at the bottom of the fork and seem to have rounded the allen bolt now. Any tips on how to remove it?

Try an elastic band between allen key and bolt first if that fails:
https://www.aldi.ie/workzone-damaged-screw-remover-set/p/096188205481300

07Lapierre

coach22 wrote: »

I was trying to remove the front brake caliper on my road bike. Stuck a 5mm allen key into the recessed bolt at the bottom of the fork and seem to have rounded the allen bolt now. Any tips on how to remove it?

Remove the front wheel.

Put the Allen key into the recessed bolt and apply as much pressure as you can.

With your other hand, turn the brake caliper in an anti-clockwise direction and see if you car unscrew it from the bolt.

CramCycle

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I eat through Shimano and Sram chains for some reason. I do meticulously maintain and I have thought that maybe they don't like being cleaned the whole time. I then switched to a KMC Gold chain and I sold the chain with a groupset after about 7k kms with no wear showing on it. On the new bike I've just rolled over 3k kms and the Shimano chain needs replacing so going KMC again. Expensive chain but cheaper in the long run

Is it this one : http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/kmc-x11-super-light-11-speed-chain/rp-prod57322

or this one:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/kmc-x11-el-11-speed-chain/rp-prod132778

and I presume there is no difference in the gold / silver versions

LollipopJimmy

CramCycle wrote: »

Is it this one : http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/kmc-x11-super-light-11-speed-chain/rp-prod57322

or this one:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/kmc-x11-el-11-speed-chain/rp-prod132778

and I presume there is no difference in the gold / silver versions

I went for the SL version, I got the gold and my buddy got the silver, no difference, well apart from the colour.

Deano12345

Edit : hit post by mistake

I’ve recently gotten a new bike and it’s fantastic, not really looking to upgrade with anything particular but I have a query about the brakes. It runs disks and my options for wheels are pretty limited it seems, I’d love to go carbon but I can already feel my wallet crying.

There seems to be quite a good selection of second hand carbon wheels for rim brakes, so is it possible to change the hubs to run disks, or am I starting off down a long expensive path doing that ?

c.p.w.g.w

Not mb related but road bike...Looking for advice re chain lubricant? What is the best type and brand for a road bike, typical spins are no longer than 2 hours, no hill climbing yet.

Cheers

magicbastarder

c.p.w.g.w wrote: »

Not mb related but road bike

the mb is actually short for magicbastarder...

CramCycle

magicbastarder wrote: »

the mb is actually short for magicbastarder...

I damn well knew it

Icyseanfitz

well lads, question re chainline here. I have sram eagle gxp on my cube and i am finding the chainline for the largest sprocket is pretty crap, i am trying to figure out how to improve it. My crankset is sram eagle non boost with what i assume is a 6mm offset chainring with a 49mm chainline, should work grand with my 142 rear but is a little out as i have a wheels manufacturing pressfit bb that sticks out past the bb shell on either side a little.
Is the any chainring i can get with a larger offset than 6mm to push the chainline in towards the frame a little? i thought id be able to just stick some spacers behind the chainring but with the cinch system its pretty impossible.