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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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CramCycle

What are peoples views on acceptable levels of chain wear on an 11 speed chain. My last one was over .75 before I changed. I got a measure thing and thought I had felt a slip and realised it was well past the 0.75 wear indicator.

Now I have the indicator, my current chain has just passed 0.5. Are 11 speed chains OK upto 0.75 or are you safer changing early.

Final question, what chain do people recommend. I have always found SRAM great and currently use the 1130. I was considering using their X1 chain as its meant to be harder wearing but is that just marketing BS.

CramCycle

I didn't go back to my LBS for the free service (quicker to do myself) but turned up 10months later with another issue that I hadn't the time or skill to do. Owner remembered me, no labour charge and waved the 20euro in parts when he remembered at the till I hadn't been in. Do my best since then to buy bits now and again from them, although they are so busy I doubt they need it. A good LBS is worth their weight in gold IMO.

[Deleted User]

iwillhtfu wrote: »

That's piss poor service every bike shop I know always gets the new owner to come back after a 1-200km to do a check over on the bike with no charge.

I wouldn't be going back there OP and I'd be inclined to go back tell them they're a right shower.

As said the gears probably just need to be indexed correctly. You may get away with just using the barrel adjuster.

+1 Any LBS worth their salt will tell someone to come back after 6 weeks or 200km whether it be a 1k road bike or run around that cost 200 euro to make adjustments after bedding in and do it for free. Hell even Halfords do it.

North of 32

07Lapierre wrote: »

Yeah that's very poor service from the shop.

Sounds like your gears just need to be adjusted..Watch this video..itll show you how to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bbk5RcH0bbQ

iwillhtfu wrote: »

That's piss poor service every bike shop I know always gets the new owner to come back after a 1-200km to do a check over on the bike with no charge.

I wouldn't be going back there OP and I'd be inclined to go back tell them they're a right shower.

As said the gears probably just need to be indexed correctly. You may get away with just using the barrel adjuster.

I won't be going back. After watching that video I reckon a turn or two of the barrel adjuster might be sufficient. I'll give it a go before my next spin.

iwillhtfu

07Lapierre wrote: »

Yeah that's very poor service from the shop.

That's piss poor service every bike shop I know always gets the new owner to come back after a 1-200km to do a check over on the bike with no charge.

I wouldn't be going back there OP and I'd be inclined to go back tell them they're a right shower.

As said the gears probably just need to be indexed correctly. You may get away with just using the barrel adjuster.

07Lapierre

Yeah that's very poor service from the shop.

Sounds like your gears just need to be adjusted..Watch this video..itll show you how to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bbk5RcH0bbQ

North of 32

07Lapierre wrote: »

Was it a 2nd hand bike you bought? Surprised that the shop charged you for the first service.

I bought it new. I know 1000euro isn't a lot in the world of bikes but I thought they would've thrown in a free service for that amount of money, or at least picked up on the slipping gears after charging me. Surely someone experienced would've sussed it? Maybe I'm being harsh.

07Lapierre

North of 32 wrote: »

My rear gears are slipping under load. I bought the bike in May and have been only been doing easy road riding - my research suggests this is fairly normal for new bikes after cables stretch.

The shop where I bought the bike is looking for 40-60 euro to inspect/adjust/repair. The bike had its first inspection about 2 weeks ago and they charged me half price; 20 euro because it was the first inspection. I have not done much riding in the last 2 weeks. I'm new to bikes but I reckon they should've picked up on this. I think it's really bad form on their part.

Is there anything I can do myself, straightforwardly, or should I look for a new bike shop? I don't have a problem spending money, but if I'm going to pay I expect a thorough check and not someone to grease my seatpost and tighten my breaks for 40 euro.

Was it a 2nd hand bike you bought? Surprised that the shop charged you for the first service.

North of 32

My rear gears are slipping under load. I bought the bike in May and have been only been doing easy road riding - my research suggests this is fairly normal for new bikes after cables stretch.

The shop where I bought the bike is looking for 40-60 euro to inspect/adjust/repair. The bike had its first inspection about 2 weeks ago and they charged me half price; 20 euro because it was the first inspection. I have not done much riding in the last 2 weeks. I'm new to bikes but I reckon they should've picked up on this. I think it's really bad form on their part.

Is there anything I can do myself, straightforwardly, or should I look for a new bike shop? I don't have a problem spending money, but if I'm going to pay I expect a thorough check and not someone to grease my seatpost and tighten my breaks for 40 euro.

saccades

Hair dryer and WD-40 works well.

[Deleted User]

Can't recall if I asked this before but now that I'm off the bike for a few weeks I've time to sit and look at them and get things done like see to the run around bike and get it all nice and shiny again in it's twilight years.

It's got some badly tattered shimano/brand decals on the chainstays and some other places but paint work is fine over all. I'm of a mind to removes those altogether but how some parts will just peel away but the rest is still stuck on fast? Thinking hair dryer and and something plastic that wont chip the paint?

Borderfox

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

I got a new phone lately. Huawei P20. It doesn't seem to stay connected to my Garmin 520 at all. I have to pair and unpair it to get it to upload. I usually have to do it a few times before it joins up.

Anyone else have problems with something like this?

Usual answer is to factory reset the Garmin unit and start again.

Ray Bloody Purchase

I got a new phone lately. Huawei P20. It doesn't seem to stay connected to my Garmin 520 at all. I have to pair and unpair it to get it to upload. I usually have to do it a few times before it joins up.

Anyone else have problems with something like this?

Paul_Mc1988

cython wrote:

Shouldn't need to change the chain unless there's a difference in wear between the cassettes - the smallest and largest sprockets in 11-28 are within the range of 11-32 (i.e. on 11-32 before you hit the lowest you may be in 11-28 depending on the cassette progression), so the latter chain can work with the same derailleur setup. It will just mean the rear mech never extends as much as it might on 11-32. As you say the b-screw may need some tuning, but that's minor enough.

You learn somthing new everyday

. Them few extra links would save a few gram though

Macy0161

Thanks, I'm not going to bother now I've thought on it. It was to allow for a crank power meter swapping between bikes*, but that's actually more hassle than putting the 11-28 on the turbo and just taking the good bike on and off for the summer, and then doing the same in the winter with the winter bike! I was just being a bit dumb when I had the thought.

*even though it is handy, on reflection I think a seasonal swap is better all around than trying to do it weekly.

cython

Paul_Mc1988 wrote: »

You can throw the 11-28 on the bike with the medium cage but would need to swap the chain also. The gearing shouldn't need any adjustments but id put the chain on the big cog at the back and unscrew the b-screw a bit so its spaced a bit better

Shouldn't need to change the chain unless there's a difference in wear between the cassettes - the smallest and largest sprockets in 11-28 are within the range of 11-32 (i.e. on 11-32 before you hit the lowest you may be in 11-28 depending on the cassette progression), so the latter chain can work with the same derailleur setup. It will just mean the rear mech never extends as much as it might on 11-32. As you say the b-screw may need some tuning, but that's minor enough.

Paul_Mc1988

You can throw the 11-28 on the bike with the medium cage but would need to swap the chain also. The gearing shouldn't need any adjustments but id put the chain on the big cog at the back and unscrew the b-screw a bit so its spaced a bit better

Macy0161

Winter bike has a medium shimano cage which I run 11-32, the other a short cage with which I run 11-28. On the direct drive turbo, I currently use the winter bike, so it has an 11-32.

If I swap that for 11-28, should I be ok using either bike without any adjustments? i.e. can I just mount and ride the bike that's set up for 11-32 on the road without issue?

LollipopJimmy

Same with my Garmin, I've no idea what garmin I have though, 500 I think. Every time I plug it in there's updates

Macy0161

Well my connect app has been telling me "update available" for my 920xt several times a week recently.

magicbastarder

not really a bike maintenance question - but nearly every time i connect my (cheapo) garmin to my phone via bluetooth, my phone informs me that there's a software update available for it, but it's fully up to date. garmin express lists a bunch of language updates, none of which i need. anyone else having this problem?

[Deleted User]

The cassette and chainrings rusted too and is it just rust or have you oily crud build up on there too?

Guffy

magicbastarder wrote: »

how badly rusted? and what will the bike be used for?

Jist to and from work, bout an 8k cycle each way. I think it's at the borderline between save and replace.

magicbastarder

how badly rusted? and what will the bike be used for?

saccades

Guffy wrote: »

Can anyone advise on the best way to clean a rusted chain and gears?

Clean? Replace.

A weak phosphoric acid solution will remove the rust and passivate the surface against further oxidation. Loads of DIY places sell it near the hammerite, rust gone or the like.

Guffy

Can anyone advise on the best way to clean a rusted chain and gears?

CramCycle

Mikenesson wrote: »

Are the shinano pads all the same design?

The ones I'm looking at seem to be the right ones, a slight taper on the width and a screw holding it

If they are road brakes, then yes AFAIK but maybe wait until someone else confirms

Mikenesson

CramCycle wrote: »

Yep, rubber insert length but remember, if your still not sure, you can trim down a 55 to 52, not the other way around

Are the shinano pads all the same design?

The ones I'm looking at seem to be the right ones, a slight taper on the width and a screw holding it

CramCycle

Mikenesson wrote: »

I can't quite tell if my pads are 52 or 55mm from the outside

Is it the length of the rubber insert from end to end?
Thanks

Yep, rubber insert length but remember, if your still not sure, you can trim down a 55 to 52, not the other way around

Mikenesson

I can't quite tell if my pads are 52 or 55mm from the outside

Is it the length of the rubber insert from end to end?
Thanks