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My garden Room Build

1235789

Comments

  • #202
    GreeBo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,253 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    dodzy wrote: »
    Never assume.


    5GUK7_AS01?$mdmain$
    Fair enough so!

    Did that work out cheaper overall than SWA and how long is the run? Experiencing any voltage drop with only 2.5mm2?


  • #203
    Class MayDresser
    Closed Accounts Posts: 395 ✭✭Class MayDresser


    Maybe I missed it Dodzy, what are you thinking broadband wise?


  • #204
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,070 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    GreeBo wrote: »
    Fair enough so!

    Did that work out cheaper overall than SWA and how long is the run? Experiencing any voltage drop with only 2.5mm2?

    Got a few lengths for free with joiners many moons ago. Had a roll of 2.5sq at the time. So zero cost. SWA would have been doable but the conduit offers ample protection. Better I dare say than SWA braiding. In terms of loss, can’t say. Only ever used power for charging batteries and lighting. Going forward, 2 separate units as opposed to one shed but load increase will be negligible / led lighting/device charging/Panel heater (500watt) and a TV.

    Run length from kitchen spur to shed is 8mtrs approx.


  • #205
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,070 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    Class MayDresser wrote: »
    Maybe I missed it Dodzy, what are you thinking broadband wise?

    WiFi in garden is fine from house. If any issues arise, then I’ll get extenders. Shouldn’t be an issue. Speedtest at bottom of garden over WiFi is more than adequate for Netflix/tube/Spotify. Daughter will need nothing else. No PC required


  • #206
    GreeBo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,253 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    dodzy wrote: »

    Run length from kitchen spur to shed is 8mtrs approx.

    Eek! A spur from a spur?
    That's worse than crossing the streams!


  • #207
    Class MayDresser
    Closed Accounts Posts: 395 ✭✭Class MayDresser


    dodzy wrote: »
    WiFi in garden is fine from house. If any issues arise, then I’ll get extenders. Shouldn’t be an issue. Speedtest at bottom of garden over WiFi is more than adequate for Netflix/tube/Spotify. Daughter will need nothing else. No PC required

    The pics look more remote than 8metres, well adequate. My own shed back 20m from the router used drop out on the WiFi, lucky I had 2 spare cores in an SWA to use homeplugs. ;-)


  • #208
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,070 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    I am about to start putting this up - the lad selling it is dead on and you can deal with him a bit



    I'll be posting photos tomorrow coz I have 2 hrs free in the morning and I might get cracking on it

    Great option. Let me know how you get on. I’ll give him a bell tomorrow to ask a few questions. At his price, it’s almost 1/2 the price of treated shiplap! :eek:


  • #209
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    dodzy wrote: »
    Great option. Let me know how you get on. I’ll give him a bell tomorrow to ask a few questions. At his price, it’s almost 1/2 the price of treated shiplap! :eek:

    he is a dead nice chap - gave me a discount for no real reason, thew a few bits in for nothing and delivered for 20 quid ( provided I accepted when it suited him )


  • #210
    Darando
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 729 ✭✭✭Darando


    dodzy wrote: »
    Hard to say Rob. This is unfortunately where the material costs increase. I’m €1300 in to this point (this cost includes the 50mm PIR sheets for all the walls and the OSB for the front of the build (currently under a tarp in the front garden).

    Treated 144mm shiplap as a finishing timber will probably cost me circa €600. I don’t mind cheaping out on the sides and back as it won’t be seen as long as it’s durable. Was looking at zero maintenance cladding/fascia earlier on line form an Irish company- nice site....but at over €40 per mtr, that won’t be happening. Happy for suggestions from anyone following your thread!

    You considered corrugated or box metal profile? Looking into it myself but haven’t got the costs yet!


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  • #211
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,070 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    Darando wrote: »
    You considered corrugated or box metal profile? Looking into it myself but haven’t got the costs yet!
    not really, but for the sides and back, once weather proof integrity & longevity is solid, price will be the key! Lowest wins.


  • #212
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,070 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    GreeBo wrote: »
    Eek! A spur from a spur?
    That's worse than crossing the streams!
    :confused:


  • #213
    Bonzo Delaney
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    dodzy wrote: »
    :confused:

    Ghostbuster reference as in its a bad ...a very bad idea.
    (In the eyes of a reci sparks) not me by the way I'm only a humble carpenter.


  • #214
    TimHorton
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,066 ✭✭✭TimHorton


    dodzy wrote: »
    Hard to say Rob. This is unfortunately where the material costs increase. I’m €1300 in to this point (this cost includes the 50mm PIR sheets for all the walls and the OSB for the front of the build (currently under a tarp in the front garden).

    Treated 144mm shiplap as a finishing timber will probably cost me circa €600. I don’t mind cheaping out on the sides and back as it won’t be seen as long as it’s durable. Was looking at zero maintenance cladding/fascia earlier on line form an Irish company- nice site....but at over €40 per mtr, that won’t be happening. Happy for suggestions from anyone following your thread!

    This guy on Youtube has a business building garden rooms , They look amazing and he goes through the whole process in his videos , You may get a few pointers https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChqWFbSX8STP_c8W0RVW1Xw/videos


  • #215
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,070 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    Bonzo Delaney wrote: »
    Ghostbuster reference as in its a bad ...a very bad idea.
    (In the eyes of a reci sparks) not me by the way I'm only a humble carpenter.

    Pardon my ignorance but....

    If I have a 13A FCU in the kitchen and from this I feed the shed (20A DP switch inside shed for isolation) I don’t see the issue. Surely the circuit is protected by the 13A fuse in the FCU and assuming, as all ready described, I will not be going anywhere near 3kw (including lighting) what is the issue?


  • #216
    Lumen
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,138 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    dodzy wrote: »
    Surely the circuit is protected by the 13A fuse in the FCU
    https://www.pat-testing-training.net/articles/fuse-operation-characteristics.php

    (I'm not an electrician but electricity scares me)


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  • #217
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    Lumen wrote: »

    (I'm not an electrician but electricity scares me)

    Yup, although I believe that the same as the Dept of transport has abdicated its responsibilities for policy on many things and let the SIMI run the show, a huge amount of our codes have been written by RECI for RECI to ensure no one can do a tap without them needing a skilled electrician to bend them over and extort them.


  • #218
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,105 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    dodzy wrote: »
    I suppose the irony there is that if you're in a position to harvest water to a butt, it's probably pissing down, so you won't need to water the flowers......and washing the car is a waste of time, so the butt fills quickly ;)

    .

    On topic i suppose because the where is the water going was a question.

    You know water butts store water right ??? which means.... when it rains and then stops the butt has water in it. - Water the plants.

    And also rain water for cars is much better than treated stuff, because it gives less water spots when dried.

    Suffice to say you were wrong on both points.


    Also hosepipe bans are becoming increasingly more common.


  • #219
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,105 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    dodzy wrote: »

    Word to any potential shed builders....whatever quantity of screws you factor in to your materials list....double it!

    518126.jpeg

    Nails for Studs, not screws . Different load factors.


  • #220
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,070 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    he is a dead nice chap - gave me a discount for no real reason, thew a few bits in for nothing and delivered for 20 quid ( provided I accepted when it suited him )

    Thanks Rob, met him this morning. You were spot on - lovely lad. Deal done, and very happy with the product :)


  • #221
    GreeBo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,253 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    listermint wrote: »
    Nails for Studs, not screws . Different load factors.

    What load are screws in a stud under that would require better shear strength rather than pull strength?


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  • #222
    Mellor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,603 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    GreeBo wrote: »
    What load are screws in a stud under that would require better shear strength rather than pull strength?

    I agree.

    For joists, I can see the point. But in a stud wall, the loads are parallel to fixing. Especially if fixed on ground and lifted up.


  • #223
    TimHorton
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,066 ✭✭✭TimHorton


    dodzy wrote: »
    Thanks Rob, met him this morning. You were spot on - lovely lad. Deal done, and very happy with the product :)

    What colours does he have ?


  • #224
    Lumen
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,138 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    In Ireland I don't think it really matters whether you frame a shed with nails or screws, other than decent screws cost more and toe-nailing is more awkward if you don't have a nailgun or Larry Haun skill levels.

    In a hurricane, most DIY sheds (or bought sheds for that matter) would probably fly off to the land of Oz before they came apart at the framing. Most of them are just sitting on blocks.


  • #225
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,105 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Mellor wrote: »
    I agree.

    For joists, I can see the point. But in a stud wall, the loads are parallel to fixing. Especially if fixed on ground and lifted up.

    Nails for studs. Simple as that. Do it right or do it the other way. You won't find a carpenter screwing them together


  • #226
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,070 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    listermint wrote: »
    Nails for studs. Simple as that. Do it right or do it the other way. You won't find a carpenter screwing them together
    I've used a combination throughout, 4x50, 5x80 and I've a box of 6x140 there for later on. Solid as a rock. Decent screws for this application are more that adequate as there's no aspect of the build where shear really comes into play. It's all compression.


  • #227
    Mellor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,603 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    listermint wrote: »
    Nails for studs. Simple as that. Do it right or do it the other way. You won't find a carpenter screwing them together
    It’s one thing to follow rules blindly.
    It’s another thing to understand why it’s done that way in the first place.

    But of course a carpenter isn’t going to use screws, they are slower and more expensive, and batteries in a hammer last all day.


  • #228
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    dodzy wrote: »
    Thanks Rob, met him this morning. You were spot on - lovely lad. Deal done, and very happy with the product :)


    So as I said I had a 2 hr window today - this is the result of about about 1 of those ! I couldnt believe how simple this stuff is to use !

    50058841891_6aacececf6_b.jpg

    50058841591_cef9c31fa9_b.jpg

    50059084847_7fd7f72c88_b.jpg

    50059083622_4c23c3f44f_b.jpg

    I dont think it looks too bad - its a real pity they dont have a dark grey, or I might have done the front in it too.

    I considered painting it with vinyl paint, but my wife remembers the PVC door I did - and promptly banned me. (Painting is NOT my thing )


  • #229
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,105 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Mellor wrote: »
    It’s one thing to follow rules blindly.
    It’s another thing to understand why it’s done that way in the first place.

    But of course a carpenter isn’t going to use screws, they are slower and more expensive, and batteries in a hammer last all day.

    Who's doing it blindly. Don't assume what you don't have a clue about.


  • #230
    Ryath
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭Ryath


    Lumen wrote: »
    Larry Haun skill levels.

    Hadn't heard of him before. Some skills, No nail gun needed alright!

    2.15 the hammer action starts!


  • #231
    Mellor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,603 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    listermint wrote: »
    Who's doing it blindly. Don't assume what you don't have a clue about.
    I think you've misunderstood. Following something "blindly" means following as a black and white rule without consideration. It's nothing to do with the person applying it.

    We all agreed that nails are better in terms of sheer force, costs and speed. That's why they are used for studs. It OP is happy the to make some sacrifices in those areas, then there no impact other than his pocket.


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  • #232
    GreeBo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,253 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Mellor wrote: »
    We all agreed that nails are better in terms of sheer force, costs and speed. That's why they are used for studs. It OP is happy the to make some sacrifices in those areas, then there no impact other than his pocket.

    Unless you need to un/re do something, which as a diyer is not uncommon. Then it's faster and easier to use screws ime!
    Also a diyer who isn't framing everyday is not going to be as adept with a hammer as a carpenter, so again nails won't necessarily be faster, could be slower, especially when you add in the time wasted cursing and sucking your thumb! :)


  • #233
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,105 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    GreeBo wrote: »
    Unless you need to un/re do something, which as a diyer is not uncommon. Then it's faster and easier to use screws ime!
    Also a diyer who isn't framing everyday is not going to be as adept with a hammer as a carpenter, so again nails won't necessarily be faster, could be slower, especially when you add in the time wasted cursing and sucking your thumb! :)

    True, but it's far more satisfying ;)


  • #234
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,070 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    So as I said I had a 2 hr window today - this is the result of about about 1 of those ! I couldnt believe how simple this stuff is to use !

    50058841891_6aacececf6_b.jpg

    50058841591_cef9c31fa9_b.jpg

    50059084847_7fd7f72c88_b.jpg

    50059083622_4c23c3f44f_b.jpg

    I dont think it looks too bad - its a real pity they dont have a dark grey, or I might have done the front in it too.

    I considered painting it with vinyl paint, but my wife remembers the PVC door I did - and promptly banned me. (Painting is NOT my thing )

    He is getting grey in on Thursday!


  • #235
    TimHorton
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,066 ✭✭✭TimHorton


    dodzy wrote: »
    He is getting grey in on Thursday!

    What lengths do they come in ?


  • #236
    oinkely
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 966 ✭✭✭oinkely


    That siding looks fantastic IMO, and the added bonus of maintenance free aside from a quick wash with a bucket of soapy water and a sponge every now and then! I'll be ordering it for my shed build when i get around to it.


  • #237
    GreeBo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,253 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    oinkely wrote: »
    That siding looks fantastic IMO, and the added bonus of maintenance free aside from a quick wash with a bucket of soapy water and a sponge every now and then! I'll be ordering it for my shed build when i get around to it.

    Its hugely popular in the US for their timber houses, I've never used it but it certainly seems convenient.


  • #238
    Class MayDresser
    Closed Accounts Posts: 395 ✭✭Class MayDresser


    Is it similar texture to what they use on the newer garage doors? Light metal with a pvc or similar veneer?


  • #239
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,070 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    Class MayDresser wrote: »
    Is it similar texture to what they use on the newer garage doors? Light metal with a pvc or similar veneer?

    All pvc. 3.8mtr lengths.


  • #240
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    dodzy wrote: »
    He is getting grey in on Thursday!

    haha - bit late now !

    He told me he wasnt going to stock it because it fades !

    I think it would look good with dark gray and white trim - I dont care so much now as I have decided to go with what I am calling "seedar-pine" - when you see it it looks like cedar, but its pine !
    I have clearly been effected by whats known as "estate agents reality" ;)


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  • #241
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,070 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    haha - bit late now !

    He told me he wasnt going to stock it because it fades !

    I think it would look good with dark gray and white trim - I dont care so much now as I have decided to go with what I am calling "seedar-pine" - when you see it it looks like cedar, but its pine !
    I have clearly been effected by whats known as "estate agents reality" ;)

    I think it looks great on your build. I’d have gone without batons and just screwed the cladding directly to the OSB. :)

    Got a half day in today. A bit of trimming, a few hundred screws into the OSB walls and front framing.

    Picked up 2 sets of white UPVC French doors in B&Q for €1060. A steal!

    518369.jpeg


  • #242
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    superb work - is that a raking gable set up you are going with ?


  • #243
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,105 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    dodzy wrote: »
    I think it looks great on your build. I’d have gone without batons and just screwed the cladding directly to the OSB. :)

    Got a half day in today. A bit of trimming, a few hundred screws into the OSB walls and front framing.

    Picked up 2 sets of white UPVC French doors in B&Q for €1060. A steal!

    518369.jpeg

    Should let the OSB breath. So battens are a must. Doing it without would be silly. Ireland is very humid and wet all year round. Make sure you always let air circulate


  • #244
    Seve OB
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,068 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB


    When I’m on the job, all I wanna see is elbows and assholes :D


  • #245
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,070 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    listermint wrote: »
    Should let the OSB breath. So battens are a must. Doing it without would be silly. Ireland is very humid and wet all year round. Make sure you always let air circulate

    Plenty of air circulation possible with the profile of the cladding. You’d need to see it, then you’d understand.


  • #246
    Class MayDresser
    Closed Accounts Posts: 395 ✭✭Class MayDresser


    dodzy wrote: »
    Plenty of air circulation possible with the profile of the cladding. You’d need to see it, then you’d understand.

    Post up a photo of its profile please, I'm interested in maybe using it on a fence...


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  • #247
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    Mellor wrote: »

    Looks great. One concern that crossed my mind that that the flooring sheet internally and externally in the triangle is the same sheet which could be a water ingress path. But maybe you flashed it with the door.

    I was working from there this eve when I rememberd this post and that I had forgot to reply !

    Yes, the flooring sheet is split right in front of the door and I placed a length of DPC between the butted joint to stop water soaking through the wood into the floor.
    I am in 2 minds whether to remove the triangular flooring before putting the decking on or not, I might just put a layer of membrane down and decking on it. Its fairly well sheltered from vertical summer rain, winter rain maybe not so much.


  • #248
    Lumen
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,138 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I see no reason to cheap out on battens. They cost almost nothing, can only help with moisture, and don't take space as planning exemption is on internal floor area.

    Also, screwing a sheet into a sheet is kinda weird. What length screw would you use?


  • #249
    c.p.w.g.w
    Registered Users Posts: 4,994 ✭✭✭c.p.w.g.w


    Lumen wrote: »
    I see no reason to cheap out on battens. They cost almost nothing, can only help with moisture, and don't take space as planning exemption is on internal floor area.

    Also, screwing a sheet into a sheet is kinda weird. What length screw would you use?

    Excuse my ignorance...where are suggestion the batons to go?


  • #250
    iwillhtfu
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,373 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    Lumen wrote: »
    I see no reason to cheap out on battens. They cost almost nothing, can only help with moisture, and don't take space as planning exemption is on internal floor area.

    Also, screwing a sheet into a sheet is kinda weird. What length screw would you use?

    I assume it's physical space as opposed to planning that has made the decision but yes no other reason not to put them in imo.


  • #251
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    c.p.w.g.w wrote: »
    Excuse my ignorance...where are suggestion the batons to go?

    50058841891_6aacececf6_b.jpg


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