My garden Room Build

dodzy

GreeBo wrote: »

Eek! A spur from a spur?
That's worse than crossing the streams!

Bonzo Delaney

dodzy wrote: »

Ghostbuster reference as in its a bad ...a very bad idea.
(In the eyes of a reci sparks) not me by the way I'm only a humble carpenter.

TimHorton

dodzy wrote: »

Hard to say Rob. This is unfortunately where the material costs increase. I’m €1300 in to this point (this cost includes the 50mm PIR sheets for all the walls and the OSB for the front of the build (currently under a tarp in the front garden).

Treated 144mm shiplap as a finishing timber will probably cost me circa €600. I don’t mind cheaping out on the sides and back as it won’t be seen as long as it’s durable. Was looking at zero maintenance cladding/fascia earlier on line form an Irish company- nice site....but at over €40 per mtr, that won’t be happening. Happy for suggestions from anyone following your thread!

This guy on Youtube has a business building garden rooms , They look amazing and he goes through the whole process in his videos , You may get a few pointers https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChqWFbSX8STP_c8W0RVW1Xw/videos

dodzy

Bonzo Delaney wrote: »

Ghostbuster reference as in its a bad ...a very bad idea.
(In the eyes of a reci sparks) not me by the way I'm only a humble carpenter.

Pardon my ignorance but....

If I have a 13A FCU in the kitchen and from this I feed the shed (20A DP switch inside shed for isolation) I don’t see the issue. Surely the circuit is protected by the 13A fuse in the FCU and assuming, as all ready described, I will not be going anywhere near 3kw (including lighting) what is the issue?

Lumen

dodzy wrote: »

Surely the circuit is protected by the 13A fuse in the FCU

https://www.pat-testing-training.net/articles/fuse-operation-characteristics.php

(I'm not an electrician but electricity scares me)

RobAMerc

Lumen wrote: »

(I'm not an electrician but electricity scares me)

Yup, although I believe that the same as the Dept of transport has abdicated its responsibilities for policy on many things and let the SIMI run the show, a huge amount of our codes have been written by RECI for RECI to ensure no one can do a tap without them needing a skilled electrician to bend them over and extort them.

listermint

dodzy wrote: »

I suppose the irony there is that if you're in a position to harvest water to a butt, it's probably pissing down, so you won't need to water the flowers......and washing the car is a waste of time, so the butt fills quickly

.

On topic i suppose because the where is the water going was a question.

You know water butts store water right ??? which means.... when it rains and then stops the butt has water in it. - Water the plants.

And also rain water for cars is much better than treated stuff, because it gives less water spots when dried.

Suffice to say you were wrong on both points.


Also hosepipe bans are becoming increasingly more common.

listermint

dodzy wrote: »

Word to any potential shed builders....whatever quantity of screws you factor in to your materials list....double it!

Nails for Studs, not screws . Different load factors.

dodzy

RobAMerc wrote: »

he is a dead nice chap - gave me a discount for no real reason, thew a few bits in for nothing and delivered for 20 quid ( provided I accepted when it suited him )

Thanks Rob, met him this morning. You were spot on - lovely lad. Deal done, and very happy with the product

GreeBo

listermint wrote: »

Nails for Studs, not screws . Different load factors.

What load are screws in a stud under that would require better shear strength rather than pull strength?

Mellor

GreeBo wrote: »

What load are screws in a stud under that would require better shear strength rather than pull strength?

I agree.

For joists, I can see the point. But in a stud wall, the loads are parallel to fixing. Especially if fixed on ground and lifted up.

TimHorton

dodzy wrote: »

Thanks Rob, met him this morning. You were spot on - lovely lad. Deal done, and very happy with the product

What colours does he have ?

Lumen

In Ireland I don't think it really matters whether you frame a shed with nails or screws, other than decent screws cost more and toe-nailing is more awkward if you don't have a nailgun or Larry Haun skill levels.

In a hurricane, most DIY sheds (or bought sheds for that matter) would probably fly off to the land of Oz before they came apart at the framing. Most of them are just sitting on blocks.

listermint

Mellor wrote: »

I agree.

For joists, I can see the point. But in a stud wall, the loads are parallel to fixing. Especially if fixed on ground and lifted up.

Nails for studs. Simple as that. Do it right or do it the other way. You won't find a carpenter screwing them together

dodzy

listermint wrote: »

Nails for studs. Simple as that. Do it right or do it the other way. You won't find a carpenter screwing them together

I've used a combination throughout, 4x50, 5x80 and I've a box of 6x140 there for later on. Solid as a rock. Decent screws for this application are more that adequate as there's no aspect of the build where shear really comes into play. It's all compression.

Mellor

listermint wrote: »

Nails for studs. Simple as that. Do it right or do it the other way. You won't find a carpenter screwing them together

It’s one thing to follow rules blindly.
It’s another thing to understand why it’s done that way in the first place.

But of course a carpenter isn’t going to use screws, they are slower and more expensive, and batteries in a hammer last all day.

RobAMerc

dodzy wrote: »

Thanks Rob, met him this morning. You were spot on - lovely lad. Deal done, and very happy with the product

So as I said I had a 2 hr window today - this is the result of about about 1 of those ! I couldnt believe how simple this stuff is to use !









I dont think it looks too bad - its a real pity they dont have a dark grey, or I might have done the front in it too.

I considered painting it with vinyl paint, but my wife remembers the PVC door I did - and promptly banned me. (Painting is NOT my thing )

listermint

Mellor wrote: »

It’s one thing to follow rules blindly.
It’s another thing to understand why it’s done that way in the first place.

But of course a carpenter isn’t going to use screws, they are slower and more expensive, and batteries in a hammer last all day.

Who's doing it blindly. Don't assume what you don't have a clue about.

Ryath

Lumen wrote: »

Larry Haun skill levels.

Hadn't heard of him before. Some skills, No nail gun needed alright!

2.15 the hammer action starts!

Mellor

listermint wrote: »

Who's doing it blindly. Don't assume what you don't have a clue about.

I think you've misunderstood. Following something "blindly" means following as a black and white rule without consideration. It's nothing to do with the person applying it.

We all agreed that nails are better in terms of sheer force, costs and speed. That's why they are used for studs. It OP is happy the to make some sacrifices in those areas, then there no impact other than his pocket.

GreeBo

Mellor wrote: »

We all agreed that nails are better in terms of sheer force, costs and speed. That's why they are used for studs. It OP is happy the to make some sacrifices in those areas, then there no impact other than his pocket.

Unless you need to un/re do something, which as a diyer is not uncommon. Then it's faster and easier to use screws ime!
Also a diyer who isn't framing everyday is not going to be as adept with a hammer as a carpenter, so again nails won't necessarily be faster, could be slower, especially when you add in the time wasted cursing and sucking your thumb!

listermint

GreeBo wrote: »

Unless you need to un/re do something, which as a diyer is not uncommon. Then it's faster and easier to use screws ime!
Also a diyer who isn't framing everyday is not going to be as adept with a hammer as a carpenter, so again nails won't necessarily be faster, could be slower, especially when you add in the time wasted cursing and sucking your thumb!

True, but it's far more satisfying

dodzy

RobAMerc wrote: »

So as I said I had a 2 hr window today - this is the result of about about 1 of those ! I couldnt believe how simple this stuff is to use !









I dont think it looks too bad - its a real pity they dont have a dark grey, or I might have done the front in it too.

I considered painting it with vinyl paint, but my wife remembers the PVC door I did - and promptly banned me. (Painting is NOT my thing )

He is getting grey in on Thursday!

TimHorton

dodzy wrote: »

He is getting grey in on Thursday!

What lengths do they come in ?

oinkely

That siding looks fantastic IMO, and the added bonus of maintenance free aside from a quick wash with a bucket of soapy water and a sponge every now and then! I'll be ordering it for my shed build when i get around to it.

GreeBo

oinkely wrote: »

That siding looks fantastic IMO, and the added bonus of maintenance free aside from a quick wash with a bucket of soapy water and a sponge every now and then! I'll be ordering it for my shed build when i get around to it.

Its hugely popular in the US for their timber houses, I've never used it but it certainly seems convenient.

Class MayDresser

Is it similar texture to what they use on the newer garage doors? Light metal with a pvc or similar veneer?

dodzy

Class MayDresser wrote: »

Is it similar texture to what they use on the newer garage doors? Light metal with a pvc or similar veneer?

All pvc. 3.8mtr lengths.

RobAMerc

dodzy wrote: »

He is getting grey in on Thursday!

haha - bit late now !

He told me he wasnt going to stock it because it fades !

I think it would look good with dark gray and white trim - I dont care so much now as I have decided to go with what I am calling "seedar-pine" - when you see it it looks like cedar, but its pine !
I have clearly been effected by whats known as "estate agents reality"

dodzy

RobAMerc wrote: »

haha - bit late now !

He told me he wasnt going to stock it because it fades !

I think it would look good with dark gray and white trim - I dont care so much now as I have decided to go with what I am calling "seedar-pine" - when you see it it looks like cedar, but its pine !
I have clearly been effected by whats known as "estate agents reality"

I think it looks great on your build. I’d have gone without batons and just screwed the cladding directly to the OSB.

Got a half day in today. A bit of trimming, a few hundred screws into the OSB walls and front framing.

Picked up 2 sets of white UPVC French doors in B&Q for €1060. A steal!