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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 401 ✭✭irishbuzz


    gillad wrote: »
    Iv had a stanley oisin for the last 5 years and the only way to keep the glass clean was to have a raging fire going but the room would get too hot.
    I have just put in a new stove with an airwash system that is suppossed to keep the glass clean.,,,,i haven't lit it yet,,hopefully tomorrow it will get its first fire

    What stove did you replace the Oisín with?


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,392 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    gillad wrote: »
    Iv had a stanley oisin for the last 5 years and the only way to keep the glass clean was to have a raging fire going but the room would get too hot.
    I have just put in a new stove with an airwash system that is suppossed to keep the glass clean.,,,,i haven't lit it yet,,hopefully tomorrow it will get its first fire

    I don't think airwashes work fully, they'll keep it clearer but you'll still have to wash it every now and then.

    I find dipping a bit of damp newspaper in the ashes and wiping with that once a week keeps it clean and means you don't have to use those manky sprays.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,290 ✭✭✭dar_cool


    Any tips how to keep a stove going all night ? I have a stanley oisin and would be great to have it simmering overnight. Ive tried it a few times but failed!!
    Any tips ? Im using homefire stove heat fuel
    Thanks


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 368 ✭✭gillad


    irishbuzz wrote: »
    What stove did you replace the Oisín with?


    I put in a 12kw Boru boiler stove as I have rads..my oil boiler packed in a few years ago and i never replaced it . I prefer to use a stove for heating now.
    The oisin was a great stove and probably would have worked for many more years


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 368 ✭✭gillad


    dar_cool wrote: »
    Any tips how to keep a stove going all night ? I have a stanley oisin and would be great to have it simmering overnight. Ive tried it a few times but failed!!
    Any tips ? Im using homefire stove heat fuel
    Thanks

    Why did it fail?....did it go out or run out of fuel?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,290 ✭✭✭dar_cool


    gillad wrote: »
    Why did it fail?....did it go out or run out of fuel?

    I had the air valve just barely open and it went out after an hour or so. I just want it so its just simmering and then in the morning fill it up with coal and away it goes if you know what I mean ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 368 ✭✭gillad


    dar_cool wrote: »
    I had the air valve just barely open and it went out after an hour or so. I just want it so its just simmering and then in the morning fill it up with coal and away it goes if you know what I mean ?

    I used to make sure it is lighting well,then fill it up....The air valve/spindle is very delicate so a quarter of a turn in any direction can make a big difference.
    I would wind it in until fully closed then open it up half a turn and it would simmer for 8/9 hours....premium coal is best


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 723 ✭✭✭soap1978


    cant get anyone to install a stove for me in cavan


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,569 ✭✭✭savemejebus


    Anyone got experience or know where i'd find reviews of the Hamco Ennell 8kw?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,364 ✭✭✭leck


    I got the Henley Arklow installed a week ago. The ash pan is very shallow. If I have the fire on for 5-6 hours, the ash pan is overflowing. Would it be a bit risky to remove and empty the ashpan midway through the evening?

    Also what fuel do people recommend? So far I've tried briquettes, which were fine. Turf smelled great but too much ash. Now using coal nuggets. Neighbour gave me some nuggets to try - Supertherm - which threw off great heat. Today I got a couple of bags of Ecobrite but nuggets are much smaller.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,827 ✭✭✭irishproduce


    Anyone on here ever installed a stove into the old fireplace and just slabbed the resulting cavity with fire board (gyproc).
    I am thinking to take out the fire back, clear enough space and then have it slabbed using gyproc fire resistant board.
    The put a free standing stove in.
    Anyone done that? How has it worked? I am worried about blackening on plaster finish.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 368 ✭✭gillad


    leck wrote: »
    I got the Henley Arklow installed a week ago. The ash pan is very shallow. If I have the fire on for 5-6 hours, the ash pan is overflowing. Would it be a bit risky to remove and empty the ashpan midway through the evening?
    .

    Use a metal bucket for the ash and bring the bucket to the stove so you're not walking through the house with a hot pan full of burning ash.....stove gloves too for extra safety


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,364 ✭✭✭leck


    gillad wrote: »
    Use a metal bucket for the ash and bring the bucket to the stove so you're not walking through the house with a hot pan full of burning ash.....stove gloves too for extra safety
    At the moment I'm using a round metal waste bin but think I need to get one of those galvanized boxes with rectangular opening as emptying a square ashpan into the round container doesn't go well, no matter how careful I am there's ash everywhere.

    All this paraphernalia is expensive. I was eyeing up a nice wrought iron tongs yesterday but it was €35 so I went for a €4 one from Euro shop instead.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 368 ✭✭gillad


    leck wrote: »
    At the moment I'm using a round metal waste bin but think I need to get one of those galvanized boxes with rectangular opening as emptying a square ashpan into the round container doesn't go well, no matter how careful I am there's ash everywhere.

    .

    Yes...A common problem i think,empty a large square pan into a smaller round bucket.....some money to be made here with "The Stove Bucket":)


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,392 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    Ash vac has solved all my issues :pac: Mind you I don't extract the ashes while the stove is still lit!


  • Registered Users Posts: 84 ✭✭Paremon


    Can anybody recommend any suppliers of kiln dried Ash or Beech wood logs in Wicklow or South Dublin?
    Quotes so far:
    Burke Oil: Beech wood, pallet (equates to 51 bags of unknown size/weight); €350


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 915 ✭✭✭logistic


    Paremon wrote: »
    Can anybody recommend any suppliers of kiln dried Ash or Beech wood logs in Wicklow or South Dublin?
    Quotes so far:
    Burke Oil: Beech wood, pallet (equates to 51 bags of unknown size/weight); €350
    I tried a sample of products from greenfuelireland.com olive, hornbeam and hardwood briquettes. I found the olive wood to be the best so far. The burn time and heat from olive has exceeded anything else I’ve tried.
    I’d be interested in hearing what other people have used?


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,392 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    I've been using the bord na mona kiln dried. It burns nice and hot and has no issue keeping the rads warm, but it's way over priced at 7.50 a bag from tesco so am mostly sticking to ecobrite.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,302 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Grow House aside and the high price paid by the victims.

    It does go to illustrate the dangers of what might well turn out to be poor plumbing.
    We all see it on our journeys and are mostly ignored when we point it out.
    Always make sure to get an installer who understands the dangers when installed incorrectly or a component fails.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,392 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    What caused the explosion? Didn't think it had been made public/figured out yet.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,302 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Mickeroo wrote: »
    What caused the explosion? Didn't think it had been made public/figured out yet.
    Said backboiler on the Indo this morning.

    https://www.independent.ie/irish-news/boiler-explosion-kills-man-28-at-house-with-cannabis-farm-in-shed-36324936.html

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,827 ✭✭✭irishproduce


    Are snuggle stoves much good guys? Just to get a basic stove up and running? Non boiler, 8kw. Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,491 ✭✭✭stuchyg


    Looking for some impartial advice. Looking to get a freestanding stove in our open plan kitchen. Same room has a spiral staircase which leads upstairs to hoping to send a bit of heat up that way too. Stove would be positioned roughly where the bookcase is and out through the wall.

    I have been informed that we need twin wall pipefor outside along with twin wall brackets and accessories. All told we are looking at 1100 quid just for fittings, that's slightly out of my price range at the minute. Anyone know of this would be a good price, it includes the following

    5 X 1m twin wall straight pipe
    3 twin wall brackets
    Twin wall rain cap
    2 twin wall 45 degree elbows
    Twin wall 45 tee
    2 X 500mm twin wall straight pipe
    1 X 500mm single wall pipe
    1 45 degree single wall elbow
    1 twin wall start pipe adapter
    1 twin wall base support

    Anything I can do or change to try reduce costs?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,069 ✭✭✭ronn


    That sounds about right, the 1m twin wall stuff i think is €100 a meter,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,491 ✭✭✭stuchyg


    ronn wrote: »
    That sounds about right, the 1m twin wall stuff i think is €100 a meter,

    70 p/m online. It's things like the base support I'm questioning, thats 100 quid alone, does it need to be twin wall as well or can I buy a standard base support, same for the wall brackets, could save 100 odd quid on those


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    stuchyg wrote: »
    Looking for some impartial advice. Looking to get a freestanding stove in our open plan kitchen. Same room has a spiral staircase which leads upstairs to hoping to send a bit of heat up that way too. Stove would be positioned roughly where the bookcase is and out through the wall.

    I have been informed that we need twin wall pipefor outside along with twin wall brackets and accessories. All told we are looking at 1100 quid just for fittings, that's slightly out of my price range at the minute. Anyone know of this would be a good price, it includes the following

    5 X 1m twin wall straight pipe
    3 twin wall brackets
    Twin wall rain cap
    2 twin wall 45 degree elbows
    Twin wall 45 tee
    2 X 500mm twin wall straight pipe
    1 X 500mm single wall pipe
    1 45 degree single wall elbow
    1 twin wall start pipe adapter
    1 twin wall base support

    Anything I can do or change to try reduce costs?

    Looks spot on price wise.
    Everything listed required.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,491 ✭✭✭stuchyg


    Forge83 wrote: »
    Looks spot on price wise.
    Everything listed required.

    Thanks, been checking around on a few different sites and can manage it all for 1250 including the stove. Looking at the Henley Erne if anyone has experience of them. 5 inch flue is making it a bit of a pain for picking up little bits and pieces on adverts etc, most seems to be 6 inch diameter


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    stuchyg wrote: »
    Thanks, been checking around on a few different sites and can manage it all for 1250 including the stove. Looking at the Henley Erne if anyone has experience of them. 5 inch flue is making it a bit of a pain for picking up little bits and pieces on adverts etc, most seems to be 6 inch diameter

    You can't mix and match brands of twin Wall Flue.
    Different brands will have different connectors.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,491 ✭✭✭stuchyg


    Forge83 wrote: »
    You can't mix and match brands of twin Wall Flue.
    Different brands will have different connectors.

    The two sites are using darco twinn wall so I should be ok on that regard I think, just such expensive stuff


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 273 ✭✭electrofelix


    Looking for some info on cost benefits (or lack of) for a stove with back boiler.

    Planning upgrade of existing oil boiler (probably to a grant vortex), work to zone the existing system to upstairs/downstairs/cylinder, and upgrade controls.

    In addition because of a giant crack in our flue, looking to fit a stove and flue to cut off the draft and heat the sitting room. Expecting it will need ~4kW.

    As we're getting so much other work done on the heating/plumbing, thinking that it would make sense to at least consider whether a back boiler stove would make sense, but struggling to work out whether it would be worth it.

    Considering it because I've seen in the partner's brothers house, that they can easily keep the stove going without needing oil heat on for when they are at home. In our house we have a study that is to the side of the house, but it would through an external wall so if I was to work from home, or to use it as a playroom for children in the future, it's very unlikely any heat from a normal stove in the sitting room across the hall would come into the study/playroom. The alternative would be to run the heating for large parts of the day.

    Also wondering will there be problems in managing the heat if the oil heating is on to heat the rest of downstairs and having a fire in the sitting room stove, but I presume that can be managed by having the thermostat outside of the sitting room and fitting a temperature control to the sitting room radiator?

    The few back boiler stoves I've been looking at, suggest about ~7.5-13kW to the hot water + radiators.

    With zoning I'd hope that it could be set up to only heat the hot water and downstairs radiators rather than the entire house, as that would result in more fuel being burnt in the fireplace.

    The problems in working out whether it is worth the extra cost of plumbing in the back boiler plus the additional fuel cost versus a standard stove versus the how much it would cost in oil to heat the rest of the house with the stove going as well?

    How much more fuel is burnt in a boiler stove versus normal stove with same output to the room? If it's 4.8kW to the room and 7.5kW to the hot water, is it 2.56 times ( (4.8+7.5)/4.8 ) or is it less because once the water is hot it doesn't need the same amount of energy to keep it warm. Or does it matter? Just take the energy rating and compare what it would cost for oil to provide that versus wood pellets or wood/coal?

    So far we've been quoted ~2.7k + VAT for the additional plumbing costs to connect the back boiler into the system, on top of the cost of retrofitting for zoned plumbing, expect the back boiler version of the stove will cost a few hundred extra as well so assume 3.4k (2.7k*1.135 + 300 for a back boiler stove over standard).

    Looking at https://www.seai.ie/resources/publications/Domestic-Fuel-Cost-Comparisons.pdf
    Our recent oil delivery puts the oil cost for delivered kWh would come to 6.66c (((€475/700l)/10.18)*100)
    Correspondingly looking at http://www.leinsterpellets.com/index.php/fuel/bulk-wood-pellets.html puts wood pellets at 0.26€/kg with a cost for delivered kWh being 5.42c (((€265/1000kg)/4.8) * 100).
    So 1.24c cheaper to heat with wood pellets per kWh

    I'm ignoring the cost of having the room with the stove adding an overhead of 4.8kW to heating the rest of the house as I'm assuming that in general it only makes sense to use just the stove for heating if it was going to be lit anyway.

    Assuming that it would make sense to run the stove with back boiler for 8hrs of the day for ~ 2/3 of the year (assuming someone was home all day) to provide 7.5kW of heat to the rest of the house:
    8*242*7.5*0.0124 = €180 saving
    Trying with 13.5kW
    8*242*13.5*0.0124 = €324 saving

    That seems like it would only make sense if you needed the 13.5kW to heat the downstairs radiators and hot water (ignores the wastage for heating the hot water if you only need heat as fully zoned for the oil boiler it shouldn't heat the hot water as well), and would still require 10 years at current prices assuming we could get a pellet stove as I've found it difficult to calculate with logs, but I suspect the pellets are more cost efficient anyway. Or cost of oil needs to jump a fair bit to make it economical?

    This also ignores the cost of storage for the wood pellets, which is another cost in addition to the integration of the back boiler.

    Is there anything that I'm not considering in regards to determining cost of heating that should be included? Is oil likely to increase by 10-15% more than wood in the next few years?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,528 ✭✭✭gaius c


    We have a large and long kitchen. It's pretty cold in winter. Insulation upgrade is a pending project as we've already done 80% of the house but kitchen needs to wait at least another year. Luckily there's a fireplace in the room already and we're thinking of getting a stove for it. The chimney used to be on the external wall but previous owners did an extension so chimney is now on an internal wall.

    Thoughts? Suggestions? Advice?

    Backboilers? Presume the retrofit and integration with an existing heating system (gas) would make it prohibitively expensive?
    Would be happy enough with a standard stove but the thought of wasting all that heat out the chimney... :(


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 368 ✭✭gillad


    gaius c wrote: »
    We have a large and long kitchen. It's pretty cold in winter. Insulation upgrade is a pending project as we've already done 80% of the house but kitchen needs to wait at least another year. Luckily there's a fireplace in the room already and we're thinking of getting a stove for it. The chimney used to be on the external wall but previous owners did an extension so chimney is now on an internal wall.

    Thoughts? Suggestions? Advice?

    Backboilers? Presume the retrofit and integration with an existing heating system (gas) would make it prohibitively expensive?
    Would be happy enough with a standard stove but the thought of wasting all that heat out the chimney... :(

    A stove without a backboiler would heat that room up very well..they dont waste a lot of heat and you will have so much heat off it,you may be glad at times to loose some up the chimney:).....it would be much cheaper than a boiler model to put in and since your chimney is in the centre of the house you may not need a flexi flue as the chimney will not get too cold...so just the price of the stove,a flue adapter and some stove pipe and you have a warm kitchen for the winter


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Just wondering, I currently have Glenmore 30B installed. I was thinking of swapping it out for wood pellet stove with back boiler.

    Just wondering would it be a big job to connect everything in? or simple as everything in place?

    Also would it be better in terms of heat to water? I find the stove is hard to get up to heat and then quickly loses it unless I put in a full bag of coal


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,221 ✭✭✭thekooman


    just thought i would upload as it might help someone with ideas for a fire surround

    434702.jpeg

    we had an old brick fireplace and my wife hated it so it had to come out. spent a day kango'ing it out and cleaning after. Spent another hour or so before tiling kango'ing out the old tiles and adhesive...dirty work!

    We went with a porcelain tile (600 x 300) for the hearth and stone effect tile for the insert area. We didnt remove the Erin stove so had to jack it up and remove legs to get it tiled under... bit of mare! :rolleyes:

    434703.jpg

    still needs to be filled and painted and we are getting a chrome trim (made to order for 100) to finish around the edge of insert. I bought some rechargeable LED downlighters from amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06Y2SGWMQ/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item so hope they stick the heat.

    434695.jpg

    got the idea from here:

    434701.jpeg

    hope this is of help to someone.
    total cost will be < 1000.
    will post a finished pic again.

    EDIT: someone asked about how much and since its not finished yet here is a guess-imate
    Ripping out - FREE as completed myself.
    Tiles - 350 euro
    Tiler - not paid yet but around 150 to 200.
    Painter - not paid yet but again around 150 to 200.
    Chrome/stainless steel (satin finish) trim surround (bespoke by a Stainless steel specialist) is 90
    Have the paint and the painter is providing the filler etc.
    Not putting up any shelf for the moment.
    bought LED remote timer rechargeable lights for underneath - 40 euro.
    Trim for around tiles to floor - 20 euro.
    TOTAL = max of 900...more than likely around 850.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    thekooman wrote: »
    Painter - not paid yet but again around 150 to 200.
    .

    I will paint it for 150 :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,221 ✭✭✭thekooman


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    I will paint it for 150 :)

    painted for 80 ;) will get a pic of the finished stove area up in the next few days.

    COST:
    Ripping out - FREE as completed myself.
    Tiles - 350 euro
    Tiler - 170.
    Painter - 80.
    Chrome/stainless steel (satin finish) trim surround (bespoke by a Stainless steel specialist) is 70
    Have the paint and the painter is providing the filler etc.
    Not putting up any shelf for the moment.
    bought LED remote timer rechargeable lights for underneath - 40 euro.
    Trim for around tiles to floor - 20 40 euro as fecked it up putting down!
    removed rail on internals of Stanley Erin door - 50 (local engineering firm)
    stove paint to paint door - 15 euro
    new rope, glue and glass for Erin door - 85 euro.
    pay guy to service Stove and install rope / glass, etc - 20 euro.
    TOTAL = 920 euro


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 723 ✭✭✭soap1978


    how safe is a timber mantel above a free standing stove,i am looking ar 16 inchs


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 368 ✭✭gillad


    soap1978 wrote: »
    how safe is a timber mantel above a free standing stove,i am looking ar 16 inchs

    It depends on the stove.A NO boiler will throw out more heat than a boiler,a 6kw is different than a 20kw............it should state the min .distances in the manual for the stove


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,221 ✭✭✭thekooman


    thekooman wrote: »
    just thought i would upload as it might help someone with ideas for a fire surround

    434702.jpeg

    we had an old brick fireplace and my wife hated it so it had to come out. spent a day kango'ing it out and cleaning after. Spent another hour or so before tiling kango'ing out the old tiles and adhesive...dirty work!

    We went with a porcelain tile (600 x 300) for the hearth and stone effect tile for the insert area. We didnt remove the Erin stove so had to jack it up and remove legs to get it tiled under... bit of mare! :rolleyes:

    434703.jpg

    still needs to be filled and painted and we are getting a chrome trim (made to order for 100) to finish around the edge of insert. I bought some rechargeable LED downlighters from amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06Y2SGWMQ/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item so hope they stick the heat.

    434695.jpg

    got the idea from here:

    434701.jpeg

    hope this is of help to someone.
    total cost will be < 1000.
    will post a finished pic again.

    EDIT: someone asked about how much and since its not finished yet here is a guess-imate
    Ripping out - FREE as completed myself.
    Tiles - 350 euro
    Tiler - not paid yet but around 150 to 200.
    Painter - not paid yet but again around 150 to 200.
    Chrome/stainless steel (satin finish) trim surround (bespoke by a Stainless steel specialist) is 90
    Have the paint and the painter is providing the filler etc.
    Not putting up any shelf for the moment.
    bought LED remote timer rechargeable lights for underneath - 40 euro.
    Trim for around tiles to floor - 20 euro.
    TOTAL = max of 900...more than likely around 850.

    nearly finished... just need to Tec7 the trim on.
    435317.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 723 ✭✭✭soap1978


    gillad wrote:
    It depends on the stove.A boiler will throw out more heat than a nonboiler,a 6kw is different than a 20kw............it should state the min .distances in the manual for the stove

    Its non boiler 8kw


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 33,981 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN


    Anyone know where I could pick up a replacement handle for an old Waterford Stanley stove?

    Its a Shamrock model, very old...the handle on it appears to have been changed out by previous owners, and its falling apart and not tightening enough to close the doors.

    I am sure its possible to add a new handle?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Just looking for recommendations, I have decided to remove the Green 8kw stove from sitting room. It is just not useful in regards to longer term. So I am going to replace with wood pellet stove. Standalone.

    Based on my sizing I think I need about 6-8kw stove. Just wondering what recommendations? Checked a few places and looking at around 1500 before installation


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 368 ✭✭gillad


    soap1978 wrote: »
    Its non boiler 8kw

    Its going to get hot at 16 inches....the min distance to combustible materials on my stove is 37 inches.

    my first comment was backwards....a non boiler will throw out more heat


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 723 ✭✭✭soap1978


    gillad wrote:
    Its going to get hot at 16 inches....the min distance to combustible materials on my stove is 37 inches.

    gillad wrote:
    my first comment was backwards....a non boiler will throw out more heat


    Noy good i am going for 24 inchs from top of stove to bottom of timber,the timber will sit out 5 inchs


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 368 ✭✭gillad


    soap1978 wrote: »
    Noy good i am going for 24 inchs from top of stove to bottom of timber,the timber will sit out 5 inchs

    It should be ok.My last stove was a 6kw oisin and it got very hot...i had a timber mantel about 22 inches above it and there was no problems with it but keep an eye on it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37 Davidkiller


    Hi what temp should radiators be mine are only hitting 43 degrees with only two single radiators turned on thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 723 ✭✭✭soap1978


    is there a way of protecting the bottom of the mantel,eg
    Zeroflame Fire Retardant Treatment


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,687 ✭✭✭✭Muahahaha


    http://stoneandstoves.ie/product/porto-600-double-sided-10kw/
    Im just wondering how does extraction work for stoves like the above that are double sided? Where does the pipe go to connect it to outdoors, is the pipe hidden between ceiling and upstairs floor or exposed hanging from the ceiling over towards an external wall?

    Also when using a double sided stove like the above what options are available in materials can the wall encasing it be made of to withstand the heat? Does it need a stone/block base to hold the weight of the stove and then some other matieral at the sides and above it? Or does the entire wall have to be block?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 643 ✭✭✭john_doe.


    Was wondering does anyone know where to find the model number of a Boru Stove?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 368 ✭✭gillad


    john_doe. wrote: »
    Was wondering does anyone know where to find the model number of a Boru Stove?

    I have a boru.There is no id stamp on it....Go to their website and compare, is the best way to id it


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