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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

paddy147

The amount of threads getting posted each day about stoves is unreal and taking away from other plumbing issues.

Can I suggest to the members and also the mods a dedicated "sticky" thread about stoves and nothing else.

Thanks.:)

Hi Folks. This sticky has been suggested by a regular poster and contributed to quite well. It seems to have generated a lot of interest. While advertising is not permitted under forum charter a balanced view of multiple suppliers is allowed. The rule of thumb is if you are unsure just ask. But keeping it simple and discussing the techanical details of multiple suppliers will be safe. Keep pricing out of the thread and only reply if requested to by PM -Personal message. An instant permant ban will result for breach of charter on advertising.

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Gency

Most pictures I see the single wall flue sits INTO the collar on the top of the stove, however my collar is smaller and the flue will only sit tightly outside the collar. Is this ok?

Davidkiller

henke wrote: »

Thanks. I might get in touch with the installer. Curious if the stove isn't fitted correctly or if something is not sealed properly.

from tge looks of the photos its nothing much i say it will stop fairly quickly

henke

Davidkiller wrote: »

ya it looks like perlite i would be to worried but if it keeps on dropping down after a month or two id get the installer to check it out

Thanks. I might get in touch with the installer. Curious if the stove isn't fitted correctly or if something is not sealed properly.

Davidkiller

i went for the boru 20kw back boiler
and the liner and caps perlite cost about 350
i did the installation myself except the plumping

Dev84

Davidkiller wrote: »

ya it can no problem we did the same recently a 20kw stove and it cost 2350 for everything and we also got a new black marble hearth at the same time included in the price

Excellent. Thats what the insector said. Around 2500 all inclusive. Any idea the cost of the flue liner and install? I will more than likely go through insurance for that.

What model stove did you go for?

Davidkiller

henke wrote: »

Hi,

I got a Stratford boiler stove installed a few months ago and overall am happy with it. Have noticed when cleaning around the hearth some small gold bits seem to gather to the right (see pic). I think this is insulation creeping out. My question is am I right and why is it happening? It is only small bits so hopefully not serious but guessing shouldn't be there.

ya it looks like perlite i would be to worried but if it keeps on dropping down after a month or two id get the installer to check it out

Davidkiller

Dev84 wrote: »

Hi all.
Hope someone can help me with some stove questions.

Recently had the chimney inspected and was told the liner is cracked. Sure enough when shown on the camera I could see it.

The inspector has told me I have two options.

1. A chimney rebuild which is mad money he reckons.
2.Line the chimney with the same liner used for stoves which is a hell of a lot cheaper.

At the moment we have an open fire wth back boiler.

So my questions are as follows.

Can the existing back boiler be plumbed to a new stove?

Anyone any price examples from work recently done?

ya it can no problem we did the same recently a 20kw stove and it cost 2350 for everything and we also got a new black marble hearth at the same time included in the price

Dev84

Hi all.
Hope someone can help me with some stove questions.

Recently had the chimney inspected and was told the liner is cracked. Sure enough when shown on the camera I could see it.

The inspector has told me I have two options.

1. A chimney rebuild which is mad money he reckons.
2.Line the chimney with the same liner used for stoves which is a hell of a lot cheaper.

At the moment we have an open fire wth back boiler.

So my questions are as follows.

Can the existing back boiler be plumbed to a new stove?

Anyone any price examples from work recently done?

henke

Hi,

I got a Stratford boiler stove installed a few months ago and overall am happy with it. Have noticed when cleaning around the hearth some small gold bits seem to gather to the right (see pic). I think this is insulation creeping out. My question is am I right and why is it happening? It is only small bits so hopefully not serious but guessing shouldn't be there.

gillad

john_doe. wrote: »

Was wondering does anyone know where to find the model number of a Boru Stove?

I have a boru.There is no id stamp on it....Go to their website and compare, is the best way to id it

john_doe.

Was wondering does anyone know where to find the model number of a Boru Stove?

Muahahaha

http://stoneandstoves.ie/product/porto-600-double-sided-10kw/
Im just wondering how does extraction work for stoves like the above that are double sided? Where does the pipe go to connect it to outdoors, is the pipe hidden between ceiling and upstairs floor or exposed hanging from the ceiling over towards an external wall?

Also when using a double sided stove like the above what options are available in materials can the wall encasing it be made of to withstand the heat? Does it need a stone/block base to hold the weight of the stove and then some other matieral at the sides and above it? Or does the entire wall have to be block?

soap1978

is there a way of protecting the bottom of the mantel,eg
Zeroflame Fire Retardant Treatment

Davidkiller

Hi what temp should radiators be mine are only hitting 43 degrees with only two single radiators turned on thanks

gillad

soap1978 wrote: »

Noy good i am going for 24 inchs from top of stove to bottom of timber,the timber will sit out 5 inchs

It should be ok.My last stove was a 6kw oisin and it got very hot...i had a timber mantel about 22 inches above it and there was no problems with it but keep an eye on it

soap1978

gillad wrote:

Its going to get hot at 16 inches....the min distance to combustible materials on my stove is 37 inches.

gillad wrote:

my first comment was backwards....a non boiler will throw out more heat

Noy good i am going for 24 inchs from top of stove to bottom of timber,the timber will sit out 5 inchs

gillad

soap1978 wrote: »

Its non boiler 8kw

Its going to get hot at 16 inches....the min distance to combustible materials on my stove is 37 inches.

my first comment was backwards....a non boiler will throw out more heat

Shefwedfan

Just looking for recommendations, I have decided to remove the Green 8kw stove from sitting room. It is just not useful in regards to longer term. So I am going to replace with wood pellet stove. Standalone.

Based on my sizing I think I need about 6-8kw stove. Just wondering what recommendations? Checked a few places and looking at around 1500 before installation

NIMAN

Anyone know where I could pick up a replacement handle for an old Waterford Stanley stove?

Its a Shamrock model, very old...the handle on it appears to have been changed out by previous owners, and its falling apart and not tightening enough to close the doors.

I am sure its possible to add a new handle?

soap1978

gillad wrote:

It depends on the stove.A boiler will throw out more heat than a nonboiler,a 6kw is different than a 20kw............it should state the min .distances in the manual for the stove

Its non boiler 8kw

thekooman

thekooman wrote: »

just thought i would upload as it might help someone with ideas for a fire surround

we had an old brick fireplace and my wife hated it so it had to come out. spent a day kango'ing it out and cleaning after. Spent another hour or so before tiling kango'ing out the old tiles and adhesive...dirty work!

We went with a porcelain tile (600 x 300) for the hearth and stone effect tile for the insert area. We didnt remove the Erin stove so had to jack it up and remove legs to get it tiled under... bit of mare! :rolleyes:

still needs to be filled and painted and we are getting a chrome trim (made to order for 100) to finish around the edge of insert. I bought some rechargeable LED downlighters from amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06Y2SGWMQ/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item so hope they stick the heat.

got the idea from here:

hope this is of help to someone.
total cost will be < 1000.
will post a finished pic again.

EDIT: someone asked about how much and since its not finished yet here is a guess-imate
Ripping out - FREE as completed myself.
Tiles - 350 euro
Tiler - not paid yet but around 150 to 200.
Painter - not paid yet but again around 150 to 200.
Chrome/stainless steel (satin finish) trim surround (bespoke by a Stainless steel specialist) is 90
Have the paint and the painter is providing the filler etc.
Not putting up any shelf for the moment.
bought LED remote timer rechargeable lights for underneath - 40 euro.
Trim for around tiles to floor - 20 euro.
TOTAL = max of 900...more than likely around 850.

nearly finished... just need to Tec7 the trim on.

gillad

soap1978 wrote: »

how safe is a timber mantel above a free standing stove,i am looking ar 16 inchs

It depends on the stove.A NO boiler will throw out more heat than a boiler,a 6kw is different than a 20kw............it should state the min .distances in the manual for the stove

soap1978

how safe is a timber mantel above a free standing stove,i am looking ar 16 inchs

thekooman

Shefwedfan wrote: »

I will paint it for 150

painted for 80

will get a pic of the finished stove area up in the next few days.

COST:
Ripping out - FREE as completed myself.
Tiles - 350 euro
Tiler - 170.
Painter - 80.
Chrome/stainless steel (satin finish) trim surround (bespoke by a Stainless steel specialist) is 70
Have the paint and the painter is providing the filler etc.
Not putting up any shelf for the moment.
bought LED remote timer rechargeable lights for underneath - 40 euro.
Trim for around tiles to floor - 20 40 euro as fecked it up putting down!
removed rail on internals of Stanley Erin door - 50 (local engineering firm)
stove paint to paint door - 15 euro
new rope, glue and glass for Erin door - 85 euro.
pay guy to service Stove and install rope / glass, etc - 20 euro.
TOTAL = 920 euro

Shefwedfan

thekooman wrote: »

Painter - not paid yet but again around 150 to 200.
.

I will paint it for 150

thekooman

just thought i would upload as it might help someone with ideas for a fire surround

we had an old brick fireplace and my wife hated it so it had to come out. spent a day kango'ing it out and cleaning after. Spent another hour or so before tiling kango'ing out the old tiles and adhesive...dirty work!

We went with a porcelain tile (600 x 300) for the hearth and stone effect tile for the insert area. We didnt remove the Erin stove so had to jack it up and remove legs to get it tiled under... bit of mare! :rolleyes:

still needs to be filled and painted and we are getting a chrome trim (made to order for 100) to finish around the edge of insert. I bought some rechargeable LED downlighters from amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06Y2SGWMQ/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item so hope they stick the heat.

got the idea from here:

hope this is of help to someone.
total cost will be < 1000.
will post a finished pic again.

EDIT: someone asked about how much and since its not finished yet here is a guess-imate
Ripping out - FREE as completed myself.
Tiles - 350 euro
Tiler - not paid yet but around 150 to 200.
Painter - not paid yet but again around 150 to 200.
Chrome/stainless steel (satin finish) trim surround (bespoke by a Stainless steel specialist) is 90
Have the paint and the painter is providing the filler etc.
Not putting up any shelf for the moment.
bought LED remote timer rechargeable lights for underneath - 40 euro.
Trim for around tiles to floor - 20 euro.
TOTAL = max of 900...more than likely around 850.

Shefwedfan

Just wondering, I currently have Glenmore 30B installed. I was thinking of swapping it out for wood pellet stove with back boiler.

Just wondering would it be a big job to connect everything in? or simple as everything in place?

Also would it be better in terms of heat to water? I find the stove is hard to get up to heat and then quickly loses it unless I put in a full bag of coal

gillad

gaius c wrote: »

We have a large and long kitchen. It's pretty cold in winter. Insulation upgrade is a pending project as we've already done 80% of the house but kitchen needs to wait at least another year. Luckily there's a fireplace in the room already and we're thinking of getting a stove for it. The chimney used to be on the external wall but previous owners did an extension so chimney is now on an internal wall.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Advice?

Backboilers? Presume the retrofit and integration with an existing heating system (gas) would make it prohibitively expensive?
Would be happy enough with a standard stove but the thought of wasting all that heat out the chimney...

A stove without a backboiler would heat that room up very well..they dont waste a lot of heat and you will have so much heat off it,you may be glad at times to loose some up the chimney:).....it would be much cheaper than a boiler model to put in and since your chimney is in the centre of the house you may not need a flexi flue as the chimney will not get too cold...so just the price of the stove,a flue adapter and some stove pipe and you have a warm kitchen for the winter

gaius c

We have a large and long kitchen. It's pretty cold in winter. Insulation upgrade is a pending project as we've already done 80% of the house but kitchen needs to wait at least another year. Luckily there's a fireplace in the room already and we're thinking of getting a stove for it. The chimney used to be on the external wall but previous owners did an extension so chimney is now on an internal wall.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Advice?

Backboilers? Presume the retrofit and integration with an existing heating system (gas) would make it prohibitively expensive?
Would be happy enough with a standard stove but the thought of wasting all that heat out the chimney...

electrofelix

Looking for some info on cost benefits (or lack of) for a stove with back boiler.

Planning upgrade of existing oil boiler (probably to a grant vortex), work to zone the existing system to upstairs/downstairs/cylinder, and upgrade controls.

In addition because of a giant crack in our flue, looking to fit a stove and flue to cut off the draft and heat the sitting room. Expecting it will need ~4kW.

As we're getting so much other work done on the heating/plumbing, thinking that it would make sense to at least consider whether a back boiler stove would make sense, but struggling to work out whether it would be worth it.

Considering it because I've seen in the partner's brothers house, that they can easily keep the stove going without needing oil heat on for when they are at home. In our house we have a study that is to the side of the house, but it would through an external wall so if I was to work from home, or to use it as a playroom for children in the future, it's very unlikely any heat from a normal stove in the sitting room across the hall would come into the study/playroom. The alternative would be to run the heating for large parts of the day.

Also wondering will there be problems in managing the heat if the oil heating is on to heat the rest of downstairs and having a fire in the sitting room stove, but I presume that can be managed by having the thermostat outside of the sitting room and fitting a temperature control to the sitting room radiator?

The few back boiler stoves I've been looking at, suggest about ~7.5-13kW to the hot water + radiators.

With zoning I'd hope that it could be set up to only heat the hot water and downstairs radiators rather than the entire house, as that would result in more fuel being burnt in the fireplace.

The problems in working out whether it is worth the extra cost of plumbing in the back boiler plus the additional fuel cost versus a standard stove versus the how much it would cost in oil to heat the rest of the house with the stove going as well?

How much more fuel is burnt in a boiler stove versus normal stove with same output to the room? If it's 4.8kW to the room and 7.5kW to the hot water, is it 2.56 times ( (4.8+7.5)/4.8 ) or is it less because once the water is hot it doesn't need the same amount of energy to keep it warm. Or does it matter? Just take the energy rating and compare what it would cost for oil to provide that versus wood pellets or wood/coal?

So far we've been quoted ~2.7k + VAT for the additional plumbing costs to connect the back boiler into the system, on top of the cost of retrofitting for zoned plumbing, expect the back boiler version of the stove will cost a few hundred extra as well so assume 3.4k (2.7k*1.135 + 300 for a back boiler stove over standard).

Looking at https://www.seai.ie/resources/publications/Domestic-Fuel-Cost-Comparisons.pdf
Our recent oil delivery puts the oil cost for delivered kWh would come to 6.66c (((€475/700l)/10.18)*100)
Correspondingly looking at http://www.leinsterpellets.com/index.php/fuel/bulk-wood-pellets.html puts wood pellets at 0.26€/kg with a cost for delivered kWh being 5.42c (((€265/1000kg)/4.8) * 100).
So 1.24c cheaper to heat with wood pellets per kWh

I'm ignoring the cost of having the room with the stove adding an overhead of 4.8kW to heating the rest of the house as I'm assuming that in general it only makes sense to use just the stove for heating if it was going to be lit anyway.

Assuming that it would make sense to run the stove with back boiler for 8hrs of the day for ~ 2/3 of the year (assuming someone was home all day) to provide 7.5kW of heat to the rest of the house:
8*242*7.5*0.0124 = €180 saving
Trying with 13.5kW
8*242*13.5*0.0124 = €324 saving

That seems like it would only make sense if you needed the 13.5kW to heat the downstairs radiators and hot water (ignores the wastage for heating the hot water if you only need heat as fully zoned for the oil boiler it shouldn't heat the hot water as well), and would still require 10 years at current prices assuming we could get a pellet stove as I've found it difficult to calculate with logs, but I suspect the pellets are more cost efficient anyway. Or cost of oil needs to jump a fair bit to make it economical?

This also ignores the cost of storage for the wood pellets, which is another cost in addition to the integration of the back boiler.

Is there anything that I'm not considering in regards to determining cost of heating that should be included? Is oil likely to increase by 10-15% more than wood in the next few years?