STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

celtictiger

gomamochi1 wrote: »

We are in a similiar situation however insulation drylining your exterior facing walls is where I would spend the dosh first and replacing windows if needed. No point fitting back boiler stove spending thousands with the heat lashing out the walls!

Thanks for the advice but this has been done already....exterior walls that is. Windows are okay afaik. Did you install a stove or do the upgrades?

gomamochi1

celtictiger wrote: »

Thanks for the advice but this has been done already....exterior walls that is. Windows are okay afaik. Did you install a stove or do the upgrades?

Did both! Installed a multi fuel stove from Dimplex think it was the 8kw one which we found grand as it fitted big logs etc. Would have preferred back boiler version but plumber out us off as it is a pressurised gas central heating sys that is a bit of a pain to Pipe into! Would have been worth it in my opinion however was put off at the time and funds were tight to get in! Best of luck with it!

bigdawg

Hi Stovefan/All. We are looking at installing 2 stoves in our 2,000sq ft insulated dormer. One non-boiler stove in sittingroom (insert or stand out) and one larger boiler stove in Kitchen. About 14 rads in total off the boiler stove - though all may not be needed at same time so 10-12 in reality. We will probably replace our existing tank with a triple coil to allow for future solar if we go that route. Both plumbers that are pitching for the business seem to think that an insert stove would suffice as the main boiler stove in the kitchen but we have some reservations about this. One is that we fear the insert won't throw out enough heat to the rads as the fuel chambers are smaller on them and/or we will be loading it too often. Secondly, we fear that the insert will be in a tight spot and may not have enough room to expand or the costs needed to knock out the existing blockwork may push us towards a stand out stove.

I suppose our real question is: are inserts a like-for-like option to a regular standout stove of the same output? We have our doubts and whilst the plumbers are genuine guys, once they do the install its not their issue after that?

Whilst the main question is over type of stove (insert or stand out) we are also in a daze over the choice of stoves out there and find it hard to separate them. Currently, we are looking at Stanley, Olymberl, Blacksmith, Mulberry and Firewarm. They all look the same to us with only price differentiating them?

Thanks for any input/advice.

richieburke01

Dealing with a customer at the moment that has an insert stove back boiler not heating the room it's in nor will it
2kw to room is not enough for the size of the room
Do the calculation right first

Sanchez83

Hi Bigdawg,

If the stove is independently tested then it should do the heat stated on the cert regardless if it is an insert or a freestanding stove.(once itis fitted correctly)
Some companies only estimate the heat output and that's where you will be caught.
Go back to your retailer and ask them for the certificate.
I have seen the cert for the likes of the Stanley and Henley but the others probably have them also.

emg74

Take a look at the Stratford EcoBoiler range of stoves. We have the free standing EB12He for the past 2 winters. It is heating the house (125sq meter bungalow) no problem. Using mostly turf and wood with a bit of smokeless coal every now and then if it particularly cold out. Would highly recommend this range. Probably pricier than some of the stoves you mentioned but very well built and looks good too.

There is an insert version too - http://www.aradastoves.com/stoves

Conor20

I've done a good bit of research, and there have been some good Boards.ie posts already which answered most of the questions I've had (here and here, as well as this thread). I have some specific requirements due to the space available however, and it would be great to hear people's perspectives - either if they've done this before, or people with plumbing/building experience they could apply to this situation.
The background is that the house is a classic three bed semi. The living room is too small to fit a free standing wood burning stove, so the stove and back boiler will have to be inset into the fireplace. Ideally, it would have the heat output to heat all radiators in the house with no help from the gas boiler (which I will leave plumbed in as a backup, at least until the wood stove proves itself as able to heat the house.. However, the eventual goal is to move to exclusively wood for the radiators and hot water. We have one electric shower which means hot water for showers will be available in the summer when we don't have a need for any other heating).

Some other threads have suggested Boru Stoves , and they do indeed stock an inset solid fuel stove and backboiler which seems to fit the bill (4KW output to the room and 11KW output to the hot water loop). The Boru 600ib Insert Boiler Stove seems to fit the bill, coming in around €2250 (from a different retailer, I haven't gotten a quote from Boru yet):
)

There is some great general information on the plumbing logic when installing backboilers here. For example, a setup like this:


I have a few questions about the plumbing and logictics about a setup like this. Namely

• Will 11KW output of the back boiler provide enough hot water for a classic three bed semi (10 radiators)?
• How hard is it to actually plumb in the back boiler? Does it need to be plumbed directly to the hot water tank upstairs, or can it just have two pipes which link it to the two closest radiators? The fact that it will inset into the fireplace may mean drilling holes in the fire resistant layer of the fireplace - is this a difficult job which requires expert knowledge, or is it do-able by a DIY warrior? Is an extra pump required in the system?
• " If this is a vented system then incorporating a stove is relatively simple. If the system is unvented then there are only a few boiler stoves in the market that you can directly link to the system, but you might consider indirectly linking the systems (Type C (http://www.boilerstoves.co.uk/boiler-stove-installation-C.html) and Type D (http://www.boilerstoves.co.uk/boiler-stove-installation-D.html))." How does one find out if their system is vented, and what's the purpose of venting? To release excess heat?

Thanks,
Conor.

Dtp1979

Conor20 wrote: »

I've done a good bit of research, and there have been some good Boards.ie posts already which answered most of the questions I've had (here and here, as well as this thread). I have some specific requirements due to the space available however, and it would be great to hear people's perspectives - either if they've done this before, or people with plumbing/building experience they could apply to this situation.
The background is that the house is a classic three bed semi. The living room is too small to fit a free standing wood burning stove, so the stove and back boiler will have to be inset into the fireplace. Ideally, it would have the heat output to heat all radiators in the house with no help from the gas boiler (which I will leave plumbed in as a backup, at least until the wood stove proves itself as able to heat the house.. However, the eventual goal is to move to exclusively wood for the radiators and hot water. We have one electric shower which means hot water for showers will be available in the summer when we don't have a need for any other heating).

Some other threads have suggested Boru Stoves , and they do indeed stock an inset solid fuel stove and backboiler which seems to fit the bill (4KW output to the room and 11KW output to the hot water loop). The Boru 600ib Insert Boiler Stove seems to fit the bill, coming in around €2250 (from a different retailer, I haven't gotten a quote from Boru yet):
)

There is some great general information on the plumbing logic when installing backboilers here. For example, a setup like this:


I have a few questions about the plumbing and logictics about a setup like this. Namely

• Will 11KW output of the back boiler provide enough hot water for a classic three bed semi (10 radiators)?
• How hard is it to actually plumb in the back boiler? Does it need to be plumbed directly to the hot water tank upstairs, or can it just have two pipes which link it to the two closest radiators? The fact that it will inset into the fireplace may mean drilling holes in the fire resistant layer of the fireplace - is this a difficult job which requires expert knowledge, or is it do-able by a DIY warrior? Is an extra pump required in the system?
• " If this is a vented system then incorporating a stove is relatively simple. If the system is unvented then there are only a few boiler stoves in the market that you can directly link to the system, but you might consider indirectly linking the systems (Type C (http://www.boilerstoves.co.uk/boiler-stove-installation-C.html) and Type D (http://www.boilerstoves.co.uk/boiler-stove-installation-D.html))." How does one find out if their system is vented, and what's the purpose of venting? To release excess heat?

Thanks,
Conor.

In my opinion, that drawing is absolutely ludicrous. Joining a solid fuel system into a dual system is not a simple job and is CERTAINLY not a DIY job. Joining one to gas is even more complicated. Do not follow that drawing

sooty_soupy

First off, I would suggest thinking long and hard about a boiler stove to start with. Bear in mind the more you ask the stove to do behind the scenes, the more fuel you will go through, and the longer it will take to give you radiant heat. I can't remember the last time we sold a Clearview central heating stove. British built in Shropshire rather than the run of the mill "who flung dung" stuff.

Out of the stove manufacturers you have listed there is only one I would have considered to be honest, coming from a registered chimney technicians background and having a history with them. Remember a lot of these companies will sell and forget you. Do some real homework with these things first. Try www.whatstove.co.uk for reviews from the general public before spending money.

Bear in mind that in a kitchen environment, especially with an extractor fan, a lot of these stoves can not be fitted. It is also worth noting that ventilation is required for anything over 5KW, which can cause draughts in rooms unless you can fit an external air kit. I believe a lot of manufacturers are trying to catch up with Clearview and Charnwood who were some of the first UK manufacturers to have such a system.

If it were my money, I would be fitting two dry stoves, (or perhaps one with a domestic boiler for hot water only) I would be buying very controllable stoves and burning less fuel but keeping them in for longer periods of time and spending as much money as I could afford on insulation. Our Vision 500 stove was lit last September and has been in all winter 24/7. It stays in overnight on two good sized logs easily. The stoves I would be picking would have dedicated air supplies on each, thus reducing draughts in the house and I would be buying something that didn't so much rely on "airwash" which is a gimmick that a lot of people fall for and they find it only works effectively when the stove is burning rapidly, but something that was famous for crystal clear glass no matter what level you burnt the stove. The clue is in the name and has been mentioned.... ;-)

Hope this helps

David

bigdawg wrote: »

Hi Stovefan/All. We are looking at installing 2 stoves in our 2,000sq ft insulated dormer. One non-boiler stove in sittingroom (insert or stand out) and one larger boiler stove in Kitchen. About 14 rads in total off the boiler stove - though all may not be needed at same time so 10-12 in reality. We will probably replace our existing tank with a triple coil to allow for future solar if we go that route. Both plumbers that are pitching for the business seem to think that an insert stove would suffice as the main boiler stove in the kitchen but we have some reservations about this. One is that we fear the insert won't throw out enough heat to the rads as the fuel chambers are smaller on them and/or we will be loading it too often. Secondly, we fear that the insert will be in a tight spot and may not have enough room to expand or the costs needed to knock out the existing blockwork may push us towards a stand out stove.

I suppose our real question is: are inserts a like-for-like option to a regular standout stove of the same output? We have our doubts and whilst the plumbers are genuine guys, once they do the install its not their issue after that?

Whilst the main question is over type of stove (insert or stand out) we are also in a daze over the choice of stoves out there and find it hard to separate them. Currently, we are looking at Stanley, Olymberl, Blacksmith, Mulberry and Firewarm. They all look the same to us with only price differentiating them?

Thanks for any input/advice.

jakko86

Hi guys I'm currently building and want to put in a double sided "picture" type stove. The 2 I have seen are the scan dsa 12 and the barbas energa tunnel stove, I have external air supply brought to the fireplace and cavity space up chimney to vent to bedroom above. I'm concerned will the stove heat the area well with the kitchen on one side 5.2x4.4 and sitting room on the other 4.3x4.4m the bedroom above is the same size as sitting room. I'm more concerned about heating kitchen and sitting room really but I can't really find any reviews on these types of stoves and wonder how good they are as they are quiet expensive? Any help or advice would be great.

sooty_soupy

Clearview, the company we represent have a very clever, internationally patented system which keeps the glass a lot cleaner than any other stove company, hence the name, but even they don't do a two sided stove. Why risk the reputation of the whole brand to fit a niche market?

My understanding is that two sided stoves can be a bit of a hit and miss to be honest. Some companies have stopped producing them due to the fact that it is very difficult to have an airwash system work well on both sides of the unit at the same time. On this basis you will find that heat should not be a problem but a focal point certainly is. One client of ours spent so much time with her stove manufacturer trying to sort it out, they ended up refunding her the cost of the stove and let her keep it as well, as they couldn't resolve the matter, even with engineers from the factory coming to the site and working with adapted parts etc.

Remember that "airwash" is a system a lot of stove companies profess to have to help keep the glass clear. What a lot of companies, both retailers and manufacturers alike neglect to tell you is that airwash only works correctly if the stove is burning at an optimum burn. Based on the fact that too many idiots are selling stoves, and even more are buying them, and the mistake so many make is to buy something too big for the room for the all important "heat until the walls melt" attitude. You should buy a stove to give slightly less that the room requires with regards to heat, and forget about buying something because the hole the builder has made needs 50KW to make it look aesthetically pleasing. Get it wrong and you will need to turn the stove down so low it looks like it is out all the time, and the airwash feature is non existent. Dirty stove glass makes the room look unkept, but more importantly it causes dangerous levels of soot build up, and reduced oxygenated air to the combustion chamber can lead to the lethal Carbon Monoxide build up due to improper combustion.

jakko86 wrote: »

Hi guys I'm currently building and want to put in a double sided "picture" type stove. The 2 I have seen are the scan dsa 12 and the barbas energa tunnel stove, I have external air supply brought to the fireplace and cavity space up chimney to vent to bedroom above. I'm concerned will the stove heat the area well with the kitchen on one side 5.2x4.4 and sitting room on the other 4.3x4.4m the bedroom above is the same size as sitting room. I'm more concerned about heating kitchen and sitting room really but I can't really find any reviews on these types of stoves and wonder how good they are as they are quiet expensive? Any help or advice would be great.

therealmccoy

jakko86 wrote: »

Hi guys I'm currently building and want to put in a double sided "picture" type stove. The 2 I have seen are the scan dsa 12 and the barbas energa tunnel stove, I have external air supply brought to the fireplace and cavity space up chimney to vent to bedroom above. I'm concerned will the stove heat the area well with the kitchen on one side 5.2x4.4 and sitting room on the other 4.3x4.4m the bedroom above is the same size as sitting room. I'm more concerned about heating kitchen and sitting room really but I can't really find any reviews on these types of stoves and wonder how good they are as they are quiet expensive? Any help or advice would be great.

Hi there,
No experience of those stoves so cannot comment on quality etc.

However, based on what you are already looking at, here would be my suggestion: Nordica Bifacciale 100. (http://www.lanordica-extraflame.com/en/fireplaces-built-in-fireplaces/focolare-100-bifacciale_p9083)

We have fitted many of these and never an ounce of trouble. Has ducting available as standard and with fan powered convection you shouldn't have issues heating the two rooms as sized above. (Fan is controllable by user and very quiet by comparison to others such as Boru).

Any Qs, please feel free to PM me.

nono2012

hi, bit of info on the house, have 16 double rads (need to confirm they are all double), room size is 4.59m X 4.43m.. We are looking for a boiler stove as this is what was in the house we are buying. We also have solar panels on the house. Anyone have any idea what size stove we would need? We have been told all sorts 20-21kw, 25-26kw and as low as 19kw?? We don't want something where we cannot bare the heat in the room but something that will heat the water and rads. O we also have central heating (encase this makes a difference).. thanks

sooty_soupy

I would suggest reading some of my other posts about boiler stoves NONO. A lot of people are taken by surprise by the volume of fuel they go through to do the water and radiators and all too often the last room to be warm is the room you are in. Also be careful that if you go down the route of a boiler stove against my advice, then make sure you buy one with an external air system available. If not you will need a significant vent in the room to feed the room with sufficient oxygenated air to feed the combustion process of such a big stove output.

Hope this helps

David

nono2012

Hey thanks for the quick reply... are your other posts on this thread or another one??? thanks for the advice

sooty_soupy

should be on this one, but might be worth reading some of my other rants ;-)

It is staggering how many people are offering 'good' advice that is sometimes less than GOOD

Enjoy reading. Visit www.whatstove.co.uk or cdsf.co.uk for some reviews on stoves to get an idea of what you need to be avoiding.

Best regards

David

nono2012

Thank you better get reading

therealmccoy

nono2012 wrote: »

hi, bit of info on the house, have 16 double rads (need to confirm they are all double), room size is 4.59m X 4.43m.. We are looking for a boiler stove as this is what was in the house we are buying. We also have solar panels on the house. Anyone have any idea what size stove we would need? We have been told all sorts 20-21kw, 25-26kw and as low as 19kw?? We don't want something where we cannot bare the heat in the room but something that will heat the water and rads. O we also have central heating (encase this makes a difference).. thanks

It is highly unlikely you will get a stove to heat all the rads in one go (depending on size of rads) but zoning your home might be an option. (Heating sleeping quarters and living quarters independent of each other) this will reduce your demand on the size of the stove you need and thus reduce the amount of fuel you will be burning. Also, you have to remember the size of the room that you are pputting the stove into.. Most of the big scale boiler stoves (20kw-30kw) give anything between 5-10kw to the room when in truth you probably only need around 4kw bearing in mind you probably have a radiator there too.

So if you divide up your home into two zones, how many rads would be on the largest zone?

RubyGirl

I'm getting a boiler inset in for the winter and had one quotation in already, out of the below three stove's which would you recommend as the best:

Boru Chieftian
Henley AChill
Stratford EB16

therealmccoy

RubyGirl wrote: »

I'm getting a boiler inset in for the winter and had one quotation in already, out of the below three stove's which would you recommend as the best:

Boru Chieftian
Henley AChill
Stratford EB16

Hi RubyGirl.

All three are good in their own right but differ considerably as well.

Here is the heatoutput breakdown as per the companies themselves:
Boru: 15kw to Water / 2kw to Room. (16" fireopening)
Henley: 12kw to Water / 5kw to Room. (16" Fireopening)
Stratford: 16kw to Water / 3-5kw to Room. (But this stove is physically bigger in size - 20" Fireopening)

Depending on your fireplace, you may need an extra few inches in width to get plumbing connected, a plumber will need to a survey for you.

So picking the right stove will all depend on what you actually need. The Boru will heat (at max) 12 Rads (4ft single panel), the Henley 10 rads and the Stratford 12-13 rads.

Size of the room will dictate also. Inset stoves do not give an abundance of heat to the room, the Henley (from experience) is particularly good.

How many radiators are you looking to heat? and also are they single/double? Size?

Once you know the size of the demand being placed on the boiler you'll have a better idea of what you need.

All things being equal, the Stratford is probably the best overall quality of the three.

Twiggynomore

Hi everyone, I have tried for the last two hours reading through as many of the stove questions and answers and didn't see any that answered all of the questions I have. So I apologise if they have been asked before. We had a chimney fire last January and got the top part of the chimney from the roof up replaced (chimney man said it was too small and against code) he then relined and insulated the chimney. We didn't like the two stoves he wanted us to buy(long story but didn't trust the man) so we got our own in a place I used to work in. The new stove was installed (vented through the back) and the pink fire board installed a few inches behind the stove. Originally we wanted the stove moved further back into the fireplace opening but he had some reason for not wanting to do it. Anyway, he lit the fire in the stove using wood and lighting it with a blow torch so we'd have a nice looking fire before he left the house. All was going well and we were amazed the heat coming from it. Then noticed that the backing was starting to blacken, long story short, our carbon monoxide alarm went off, buckets of water used, 2 fire extinguishers and the fire brigade later the fire in the recess/back of the fireplace was out. It was noted that there was wood and insulation back there that was not fire resistant. We were asked if the contractor had given us a fire certificate and were told he should have. Sooooooooooooo My questions are:

Should he have given us a fire certificate when he completed the job?
He used normal cement made by Irish Cement, nothing on site or bag that it was fire resistant. Is this normal to use or is fire resistant cement supposed to be used?
He also used Evo-Stik mortar Plasticiser? Is this fire resistant?
I would like to be able to tell you the name of the insulation he used in the first place, but can't as he brought it in an animal Feed bag. It was thick dirty wooly looking stuff. He told us the following day that the fire resistant insulation was out of stock the day he did it so he used the next best thing!
He also used Skimcoat. Don't know if this has anything to do with it.

The day he first installed the stove the bottom part where the air intake is, had the part you slide over to close when you want to after the fire is going was missing but we got the part the following day as it was missing when it was delivered. He is trying to claim that it was this that caused the fire and not his installation. He said the stove had no dual draft control system on it. What does this look like or is that what I just described above?
He also is claiming that because I had taped over the seals at the window last winter as the breeze was coming in also added to the problem.

I noticed in an earlier post that if a stove is being vented from the rear of the stove that the horizontal pipe should not be longer than 6". From a picture I took after the fire brigade took out the stove it looks like it is longer than 6".
It also caught my eye in one of the other posts about having an accessible opening for the chimney to be cleaned and there is none on the room side of the stove, so how do we get the chimney cleaned where the chimney sweep can get the soot?
Many thanks to anyone that can help me as my stomach has been full of acid from hearing what this person has said when I have pictures showing what products were used. He said he used Fireboard (the pink board?) Veremilate and superwool and all are certified products.
Sorry for the long post and hoping I can get some answers.

Twiggynomore

For Floyd333, Make sure you buy a carbon monoxide alarm if you don't already have one. I don't think I or my family would be still here without one.

Twiggynomore

StoveFan or anyone else can you advise me please?

Robbie.G

Twiggynomore wrote: »

Hi everyone, I have tried for the last two hours reading through as many of the stove questions and answers and didn't see any that answered all of the questions I have. So I apologise if they have been asked before. We had a chimney fire last January and got the top part of the chimney from the roof up replaced (chimney man said it was too small and against code) he then relined and insulated the chimney. We didn't like the two stoves he wanted us to buy(long story but didn't trust the man) so we got our own in a place I used to work in. The new stove was installed (vented through the back) and the pink fire board installed a few inches behind the stove. Originally we wanted the stove moved further back into the fireplace opening but he had some reason for not wanting to do it. Anyway, he lit the fire in the stove using wood and lighting it with a blow torch so we'd have a nice looking fire before he left the house. All was going well and we were amazed the heat coming from it. Then noticed that the backing was starting to blacken, long story short, our carbon monoxide alarm went off, buckets of water used, 2 fire extinguishers and the fire brigade later the fire in the recess/back of the fireplace was out. It was noted that there was wood and insulation back there that was not fire resistant. We were asked if the contractor had given us a fire certificate and were told he should have. Sooooooooooooo My questions are:

Should he have given us a fire certificate when he completed the job?
He used normal cement made by Irish Cement, nothing on site or bag that it was fire resistant. Is this normal to use or is fire resistant cement supposed to be used?
He also used Evo-Stik mortar Plasticiser? Is this fire resistant?
I would like to be able to tell you the name of the insulation he used in the first place, but can't as he brought it in an animal Feed bag. It was thick dirty wooly looking stuff. He told us the following day that the fire resistant insulation was out of stock the day he did it so he used the next best thing!
He also used Skimcoat. Don't know if this has anything to do with it.

The day he first installed the stove the bottom part where the air intake is, had the part you slide over to close when you want to after the fire is going was missing but we got the part the following day as it was missing when it was delivered. He is trying to claim that it was this that caused the fire and not his installation. He said the stove had no dual draft control system on it. What does this look like or is that what I just described above?
He also is claiming that because I had taped over the seals at the window last winter as the breeze was coming in also added to the problem.

I noticed in an earlier post that if a stove is being vented from the rear of the stove that the horizontal pipe should not be longer than 6". From a picture I took after the fire brigade took out the stove it looks like it is longer than 6".
It also caught my eye in one of the other posts about having an accessible opening for the chimney to be cleaned and there is none on the room side of the stove, so how do we get the chimney cleaned where the chimney sweep can get the soot?
Many thanks to anyone that can help me as my stomach has been full of acid from hearing what this person has said when I have pictures showing what products were used. He said he used Fireboard (the pink board?) Veremilate and superwool and all are certified products.
Sorry for the long post and hoping I can get some answers.

It's very hard to comment exactly without been able to see the stove but fire slab is not fire proof it has a one hour fire rating and should be treated as combustible.

The installer wouldn't issue a fire cert as he can't there is no cert for this purpose.

The stove has to be fitted to building regs.
The max horizontal flue run is 150mm
Distances from combustibles are stated by manufacturer.
A debree collection point should be provided on the flue.
It's very hard to say what exactly started the fire but it's sounds as if it wasn't fitted to building regs.
What fuel was used when it was lit.
How exactly was the flue connected to the chimney.
There are questions that need answers

Hope some of this was of some help

nono2012

Ok guys I have narrowed it down to 2 stoves that I think will suit our house. The Stanley Reginald or the Charnwood 16b. Have any of you purchased one of these boiler stoves and how do ye find it? I heard Stanley parts come from China so I am not too pushed on the Stanley although the water output is a little bit more than the Charnwood. The worst thing I have heard about the Charnwood is that the doors might jam a little when the fire is on making it harder to refuel the fire??? can anyone advise please?

gud

I have a Charnwood country 16 b in 3 years now, and have never had any issues with doors jamming, no matter how hot it gets. I would say it actually easy to refill as the 2 doors open to allow large logs of timber.

nono2012

That's great to hear, I was pulling towards the Charnwood so I'm glad to hear you don't have an issue with the doors... Thanks for getting back to me

snodles

Hunter Herald 14 Boiler Stove..... Wood Burner or Multi Fuel??

We are getting this stove installed on the 10th June and were in the process of ordering the multi fuel option however on speaking to the company we were buying from he has advised us against the multi fuel for the following reasons and wondered if anyone could shed any light on if these are true....

The multi fuel stove is hungry and goes through wood very fast the reason for this is because the wood is sitting on a grate rather than a bed of ash like it would be in the wood burner.

The wood burner would allow for an over night burn... for the above reason's

The man from the company said that he has a Hunter 14 its on 24/7 from march to October and he only loads it 3 times a day with wood.... how true is this?

Our installer has told us not to let anyone talk us out of getting a multi fuel but I don't know what to believe a man who's been selling burners in the family for 40 years or an installer who just installs them???

Coal was never an option or burning because after all said and done we want free heating from wood and paper briquette... we didn't want to start buying coal....

any advice gratefully received. thank you.

Robbie.G

snodles wrote: »

Hunter Herald 14 Boiler Stove..... Wood Burner or Multi Fuel??

We are getting this stove installed on the 10th June and were in the process of ordering the multi fuel option however on speaking to the company we were buying from he has advised us against the multi fuel for the following reasons and wondered if anyone could shed any light on if these are true....

The multi fuel stove is hungry and goes through wood very fast the reason for this is because the wood is sitting on a grate rather than a bed of ash like it would be in the wood burner.

The wood burner would allow for an over night burn... for the above reason's

The man from the company said that he has a Hunter 14 its on 24/7 from march to October and he only loads it 3 times a day with wood.... how true is this?

Our installer has told us not to let anyone talk us out of getting a multi fuel but I don't know what to believe a man who's been selling burners in the family for 40 years or an installer who just installs them???

Coal was never an option or burning because after all said and done we want free heating from wood and paper briquette... we didn't want to start buying coal....

any advice gratefully received. thank you.

If you have no intention of ever burning coal go with the wood burner.
The only thing with the multifuel you have the option.

MissionImposs1

Hello, We are remodelling and extending our house. The back of the house is SW facing, and we have a TV room (23msq) , and a family room at the back (52 msq) at the back of the house. These 2 rooms will be used throughout the day. The total downstairs area is 138 msq. The upstairs is 62 msq.
We would like to get underfloor heating for downstairs, and probably radiators for upstairs. Ideally we would like a wood burning stove in the family room.
Our architect is unsure if UFLH and solid flue stove would work together.
Can anyone advise/recommend? We would much appreciate it, we are in the early stages of the project.