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Chain Saw Chat

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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 770 ✭✭✭viztopia


    Sharpening chain. I got my chain sharpened. Couple of times with a dealer and it drove me mad when he would look for the shortest tooth and then sharpen all to this length. I thought he was just doing this to be quick. I got a guide and file and thought I had the hang of it but the last time I sharpened it I just couldn't get it cutting straight. I did a bit of research on the net and results were saying unless you have all the teeth the same length the chain will cut at an angle. Is this true and anyone else have experience of it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,124 ✭✭✭jonon9


    viztopia wrote: »
    Sharpening chain. I got my chain sharpened. Couple of times with a dealer and it drove me mad when he would look for the shortest tooth and then sharpen all to this length. I thought he was just doing this to be quick. I got a guide and file and thought I had the hang of it but the last time I sharpened it I just couldn't get it cutting straight. I did a bit of research on the net and results were saying unless you have all the teeth the same length the chain will cut at an angle. Is this true and anyone else have experience of it?

    The trick to sharpening is having even strokes per tooth, what I mean is if you give the first tooth 3 strokes of the file give each other tooth 3 as well this way the chain should wear evenly. What I also find is when pushing the file through the tooth it should feel smooth, if you have to put alot of force behind it than your not at the right angle or using the wrong file size.

    Having a worn guide bar can cause you not to cut straight I believe?


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    viztopia wrote: »
    Sharpening chain. I got my chain sharpened. Couple of times with a dealer and it drove me mad when he would look for the shortest tooth and then sharpen all to this length. I thought he was just doing this to be quick. I got a guide and file and thought I had the hang of it but the last time I sharpened it I just couldn't get it cutting straight. I did a bit of research on the net and results were saying unless you have all the teeth the same length the chain will cut at an angle. Is this true and anyone else have experience of it?
    Yes, the dealer is correct, all teeth have to be the same length or the cut won't be straight.


  • Registered Users Posts: 167 ✭✭junospider


    I do 6 strokes on one side and 3 on the other to keep them even .You are always stronger on one side and will shorten the teeth more on your strong side..
    Works for me!


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,797 ✭✭✭Kevin McCloud


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Yes, the dealer is correct, all teeth have to be the same length or the cut won't be straight.

    This is incorrect, in the real world where you hit a stone and damaged 2-3 cutters, if you have to take 2-3mm of them damaged cutters to get them back to a sharp state and come along and take 2-3mm off the rest of the cutters is madness.
    From years of experience all teeth do not have to be the same length to cut straight, they say this on owners manuals, maintenance manuals and on courses etc.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,343 ✭✭✭JohnBoy


    I think the real issue stems more from what junospider is saying, where all one side end up longer than all of the other side.

    I wouldnt be worried about the odd tooth myself.


    but I'm only a farmer


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭Reindeer


    If anyone is interested, I am considering selling my Mastermind Ported Stihl 044 Work Saw(Randy Evans). PM me if you have any questions.


  • Registered Users Posts: 281 ✭✭invicta


    Quote:
    Originally Posted by CJhaughey View Post
    Yes, the dealer is correct, all teeth have to be the same length or the cut won't be straight.
    This is incorrect, in the real world where you hit a stone and damaged 2-3 cutters, if you have to take 2-3mm of them damaged cutters to get them back to a sharp state and come along and take 2-3mm off the rest of the cutters is madness.
    From years of experience all teeth do not have to be the same length to cut straight, they say this on owners manuals, maintenance manuals and on courses etc.



    Correct!!
    The problem stems from incorrect raker depth!
    If you're not using a depth gauge,then,you cannot keep the chips the same size.i.e if the lhs teeth are worn more,then the rakers should be further down.Otherwise the teeth on the rhs are taking a bigger bite and causes the cut to veer to the right


  • Registered Users Posts: 30 BzrBren


    Hi I'm new here I have Stihl 025 in great condition only my first saw so still finding out stuff ya know...my question if you don't mind as I see ye talking about them here is a friend of mine is telling me I should do a muffler mod and from reading up on them I'd be all for it but from what I can see you need an adjustable carb which I think I don't have...again from what I have read a muffler mod will make the saw run a little lean...have you advice on this....anything would be appreciated from someone who knows what there doing because reading is only reading at the end of the day cheers☺


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭Reindeer


    The 025 has a cover on the muffler exaust. If you remove this, you can see it has louvres on the muffler body that direct the flow out that cover. I noticed on a 250 that if you removed all those louvres, that it did have much better pick up and torque. You may need to adjust the high needle a bit, but that all depends on how rich she is running at the moment, There are loads of videos on the youtubes that show you how to adjust your saw correctly, tho.

    If you do intend to make the modifications, be sure to remove the muffler first, then blow it out of all debris before reinstalling it. Also be careful not to damage the exhaust gasket if you intend to re use it, or maybe take this opportunity to replace it with a new one from your local dealer(they are usually less than a few Euro).


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  • Registered Users Posts: 30 BzrBren


    Thanks for the reply raindeer. I have just taken off the exhaust and taken it apart by lourves do you mean the thing that sits inside the exhaust when you take it apart with holes in one side of it....I took some pics fir you to see what im on about but can't see how I can upload them through my phone anyway???


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭Reindeer


    Well, I could be talking out me arse since I am used to US models. This is what I see when I do a search for an 025 muffler:

    http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/data/attachments/44/44619-a324b4e2a1a08a0f2146b243f655a4bd.jpg

    Is that what you see when you remove your deflector? If that's the case, enlarging that hole to twice the width should make a good difference in power and noise ;) Or it appears you could simply add a few more holes to it that will still fit under the deflector. If you can remove the baffle, that would make the biggest difference.


  • Registered Users Posts: 30 BzrBren


    No no your advice is very mucg appreciated Raindeer. Mine is definitely different to that one in your link. I have 3 or 4 pics that I took that shows everything. Where you have the wire mesh and the circular hole I had no mesh and a square instead of a hole that looks bigger than the circular one in your pic if that makes any sense at all.....how can i post pics if i add a dropbow link will that work or??? A picture is a thousand words cheers.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭Reindeer


    Take a photo of both ends, front and the entrance to the muffler, and send them on to me. I'll PM U the email addy.


  • Registered Users Posts: 557 ✭✭✭timfromtang


    off to fetch a new Stihl 461 this morning, gonna run it on the logosol sawmill, and opinions on this model? I would have bought a 660 if i could have found one, but the 461 has loadsa welly, whether its enough to be satisfactory on the sawmill time will tell. I am using a 390 at the moment which definately wants for a bit more power for sawmilling.
    tim


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,191 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Cutting some timber on the out farm today. Had a lad with a Hitachi pulling it out.All going well till the pulse tube came off at the crankcase end. Stihl 440.
    By great good luck I had in the jeep a pair of pliers for taking hooks out of pikes mouths, that were long enough to reach down and wriggle the pipe back on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 233 ✭✭txpjl


    off to fetch a new Stihl 461 this morning, gonna run it on the logosol sawmill, and opinions on this model? I would have bought a 660 if i could have found one, but the 461 has loadsa welly, whether its enough to be satisfactory on the sawmill time will tell. I am using a 390 at the moment which definately wants for a bit more power for sawmilling.
    tim

    A place in Cork has 660's on sale.
    http://douglasforestandgarden.ie/
    Start at E1162

    T


  • Registered Users Posts: 233 ✭✭txpjl


    I just got my fathers old saw going. I didn't do the work but a good small engine guy near me did.

    Anyway, the top cover is broken. Half is missing for years. Anybody have one or know where I can pick one up.

    Thanks
    T


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,191 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    txpjl wrote: »
    I just got my fathers old saw going. I didn't do the work but a good small engine guy near me did.

    Anyway, the top cover is broken. Half is missing for years. Anybody have one or know where I can pick one up.

    Thanks
    T

    German ebay.
    www.ebay.de

    Search for "Dolmar 118 Motorsage",


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭BreadnBuddha


    Husqvarna 254XPG added to the saw box. €205 in great condition with heating still working. Think I did well on that one.

    Sold one of the 55's (what I reckon to be the lesser of the two) for €180 so I'm happy at the price to change anyway!


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,797 ✭✭✭Kevin McCloud


    Husqvarna 254XPG added to the saw box. €205 in great condition with heating still working. Think I did well on that one.

    Sold one of the 55's (what I reckon to be the lesser of the two) for €180 so I'm happy at the price to change anyway!

    That was the bargain of the century that 254, any pic?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭BreadnBuddha


    That was the bargain of the century that 254, any pic?

    I will have it by next weekend. I can get a few photos of it then for you. Even with the two new saws I have, the 2 series huskys catch my attention every time.

    The 254 will be getting ported once I have a chance to make sure it's all running and working right. I've retired the 242 now. The sentimental value attached to it rules out playing with it or running it until it dies. Happy out now to have a play saw that will work well when I need it.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,797 ✭✭✭Kevin McCloud


    I had a 254 and 242 got great service out of them, I sold them along with a 266 and bought new saws. Often wonder did I do the right thing as feeling these saws will be worth alot of money in a few more years.


  • Registered Users Posts: 202 ✭✭Heavy handed


    Hi guys new to the boards. Have a ms660 and looking to get a mill attachment for it. Saw has plenty of grunt so should be fine provided the chain is up to spec.


  • Registered Users Posts: 367 ✭✭Niallers87


    I have STihl 50cc, with the piston scorched in the engine.
    I brought it to a engineer and he said that the fuel is the issue but is there anything else that could have caused this issue.

    Thanks in advance for your replies!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,376 ✭✭✭O.A.P


    Niallers87 wrote: »
    I have STihl 50cc, with the piston scorched in the engine.
    I brought it to a engineer and he said that the fuel is the issue but is there anything else that could have caused this issue.

    Thanks in advance for your replies!
    He thinks it was run too lean or with straight petrol so , not much else will cause a saw to seize unless its old and piston rings are past it .
    What model ?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,797 ✭✭✭Kevin McCloud


    Niallers87 wrote: »
    I have STihl 50cc, with the piston scorched in the engine.
    I brought it to a engineer and he said that the fuel is the issue but is there anything else that could have caused this issue.

    Thanks in advance for your replies!

    Crankshaft seals, crack in intake i.e torn boot or a loose exhaust are other factors.


  • Registered Users Posts: 557 ✭✭✭timfromtang


    Hi guys new to the boards. Have a ms660 and looking to get a mill attachment for it. Saw has plenty of grunt so should be fine provided the chain is up to spec.

    Usually when milling you would use a "special chain" sharpened differently with a 10 deg angle on the top plate. Often folks also use a thinner than standard chain and bar for milling work to reduce the material lost to sawdust and increase cutting speed.

    I have a logosol Timberjig which was a cheap way to get into milling, I now have upgraded to a logosol Farmers Sawmill, so could perhaps sell you the timberjig if you were interested.

    also if you pm me, i can put you in touch with a chap who imports logosol sawmilling attachments and sawmills (from whom i got mine)

    tim


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭BreadnBuddha


    That was the bargain of the century that 254, any pic?

    Photos as promised. Cleaned it up a bit since the weekend. Runs great.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,668 ✭✭✭kay 9


    Photos as promised. Cleaned it up a bit since the weekend. Runs great.

    Well wear, that's as near to new as I've seen.


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