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HKC ALARM Installation

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 47 kevh1987


    I see, that makes sense, thanks for the help


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    No bother, your welcome.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kevh1987 wrote: »
    Thanks for the responses guys, went with the mini trunking, which I normally do. wish they did right angle bends for mini trunking, would be a very neat job then. One last question, can you wire two door contacts in parallel or must they be in series, they were wired using 4 core cable

    They are wired in series.

    A bit of filler on the joints does just as good a job as the angle bends ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 47 kevh1987


    Help needed again guys, have wired two zones as per yer diagrames, zone 1 has two door contacts in series and set too duel end of line 4k7 and zone 2 has two shock sensors and a window contact in series set too duel end if line. Both showing open zones.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Is it showing zone open or tamper open or both?
    Where are the EOL resistors placed?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7 Light Buzzyear


    Hi guys,

    I’m hoping you might be able to help me out on a minor nuisance encountered on a SW812 installation.

    When the front (main) entry exit door is left open for a number of minutes, while the alarm is unset, the keypad starts beeping with a zone specific tamper fault, which then triggers the GSM texter. No fault registers when the door is initially opened, or during normal exit setting or entry unsetting. The user code clears the tamper fault and beeping.

    The door has its own zone (#1). There is one HKC inertia / contact combo sensor, wired with dual EOL 4k7 resistors, and the zone type is set as EOL.

    Zone options are as follows: Inhibit – Yes, Excl from PG A – No, Excl from PG B – No, Soak – No, Chime – No (This was originally set to Yes, then adjusted to No to check if this was the cause, but it still occurred).

    Work to EN50131 - Yes

    Timer options are as follows: Entry Time - 30, Exit Time – 30, Split Entry Time - 30.

    Any pointers or suggestions for things to try would be welcome. If there are any other settings you need me to post, just let me know.

    Thanks guys.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Hi guys,

    I’m hoping you might be able to help me out on a minor nuisance encountered on a SW812 installation.

    When the front (main) entry exit door is left open for a number of minutes, while the alarm is unset, the keypad starts beeping with a zone specific tamper fault, which then triggers the GSM texter. No fault registers when the door is initially opened, or during normal exit setting or entry unsetting. The user code clears the tamper fault and beeping.

    The door has its own zone (#1). There is one HKC inertia / contact combo sensor, wired with dual EOL 4k7 resistors, and the zone type is set as EOL.

    Zone options are as follows: Inhibit – Yes, Excl from PG A – No, Excl from PG B – No, Soak – No, Chime – No (This was originally set to Yes, then adjusted to No to check if this was the cause, but it still occurred).

    Timer options are as follows: Entry Time - 30, Exit Time – 30, Split Entry Time - 30.

    Any pointers or suggestions for things to try would be welcome. If there are any other settings you need me to post, just let me know.

    Thanks guys.

    Sounds like an issue with the tamper on the device itself. Can you close off the tamper in this device and see if you still have the same issue.
    Take a picture first as then you will know how you have it wired if replacing the unit.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,250 ✭✭✭Thunderbird2


    When you say "zone specific tamper fault " is it saying that its the front door or another zone ?
    Check and make sure that the tamper spring is nice and tight .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7 Light Buzzyear


    Altor / Thunderbird2 - Cheers, will take a closer look at the tamper wiring and spring on-site tomorrow. All looked Ok on initial inspection, but I'll do a more thorough re-installation of the sensor. It's just bugging me as to why the tamper fault is only showing up with the door open for an extended period. I'll let you know the outcome.

    Thunderbird2 - yes front door, zone 1 tamper fault.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Altor / Thunderbird2 - Cheers, will take a closer look at the tamper wiring and spring on-site tomorrow. All looked Ok on initial inspection, but I'll do a more thorough re-installation of the sensor. It's just bugging me as to why the tamper fault is only showing up with the door open for an extended period. I'll let you know the outcome.

    Thunderbird2 - yes front door, zone 1 tamper fault.

    Could be a loose connection or the devices tamper is faulty.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7 Light Buzzyear


    Update: went back on-site today, and identified a loose connection on one of the EOL resistors that was intermittently giving a tamper fault only when the contact was open, which explains the symptoms. Open tamper diagnostic screen showed it up eventually after practically wearing the hinges off the unfortunate door. Re-wired the sensor just to make sure. Hopefully that's it, time will tell. All my own fault.

    I had posted last night from memory that is was a HKC sensor, it wasn't, it was an Aritech slimline sensor that was put it due to size constraints. Aritechs have never been my favourite, and guess what? I like them even less now... :-)

    Thanks for the pointers Altor and Thunderbird2, you were spot on. Greatly appreciated.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Glad you got it sorted.
    It was probably the older Aritech GS610/611 sensors. They used a leaf switch for the tampers which were a very fine connection at times. The GS612/613 or the Newer GS710/711 where the pins on the lid make contact are much more reliable.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Update: went back on-site today, and identified a loose connection on one of the EOL resistors that was intermittently giving a tamper fault only when the contact was open, which explains the symptoms. Open tamper diagnostic screen showed it up eventually after practically wearing the hinges off the unfortunate door. Re-wired the sensor just to make sure. Hopefully that's it, time will tell. All my own fault.

    I had posted last night from memory that is was a HKC sensor, it wasn't, it was an Aritech slimline sensor that was put it due to size constraints. Aritechs have never been my favourite, and guess what? I like them even less now... :-)

    Thanks for the pointers Altor and Thunderbird2, you were spot on. Greatly appreciated.

    Good to see you got it sorted and thanks for coming back to let us know :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6 Jmann123


    Hi guys,
    I'm new to this site
    I've been looking for a simple diagram on how to wire up shock sensors.

    I have three zones
    Zone1 is 5 shock sensors with built in reed
    Zone2 is 6 shock sensors with built in reed
    Zone 3 is 4 shock sensors

    I'm using a hkc 10/70 panel and hkc sensors but I can't seem to get my connections correct. I also have a 4core going from the panel to each zone

    So say on zone 1 how do I connect up sensor's 1,2,3&4 for example and do I have to fit a resistor into sensor 5 and if so how???

    I have looked on other treads for this but can't seem to find an answer
    Thanks in advance
    Appreciate sum advice


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    If your wiring with resistors ....

    264529.jpg

    If no resistors copy example one with out the resistors for both the alarm & tamper inputs . Treat the sensor head and the reed as 2 devices & series in & out of each.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6 Jmann123


    KoolKid wrote: »
    If your wiring with resistors ....

    264529.jpg

    If no resistors copy example one with out the resistors for both the alarm & tamper inputs . Treat the sensor head and the reed as 2 devices & series in & out of each.

    Thanks a million for the quick reply.

    So say im calling 1&6 my reed switch. 2&5 my sensor switch and 3&4 my tamper.
    If im using red and black for tamper do i put the first red into 3 and the second red into 4 and join the backs together in a connector and at the last sensor put red into 3 and black into 4.????

    And for shock and reed if im using blue and yellow do i follow the same principal as above so say join 1&2 together in every sensor witha piece of cable then put the first blue into 5 and the second blue into 6 and join the yellows together in a connector.....then at the last sensor put blue into 5and yellow into 6.

    Again really appreciate the help


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Your spot on. Your basically making the whole zone one big loop.
    The same with the tamper.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6 Jmann123


    Ah good listen thanks again for your help especially getting back to me on a Sunday. I'll try that out
    Cheers


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Your welcome. Any problems give me a shout.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6 Jmann123


    KoolKid wrote: »
    Your welcome. Any problems give me a shout.

    Just on the last question I tried that out and it worked fine. Thanks for the help.
    Just wondering is what i done best practice
    Ie; i wrapped the black and yellow together and tapped them up
    Should I have wired differently using resistors and if so how exactly do I wire it up this way??


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Single or Duel EOL would be best practice. So would soldering & taping all joints.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6 Jmann123


    KoolKid wrote: »
    Single or Duel EOL would be best practice. So would soldering & taping all joints.

    Cheers,
    I got a soldering gun, made off all my joints and everythings fine.
    Thanks for the advice


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Not a problem, your welcome.;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27 panoodles


    How many MC sensors (reed & shock) can I get from one 6 core cable? What way should they be wired? They will be HKC sensors which I am adding to my already installed alarm.

    I was hoping to be able to put 6 MC sensors on it, 4 windows, 2 doors?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    The recommendation is 10 or less per zone. But as a rule the less the better.
    You could break them up easily into 2 zones using dual wiring as described earlier.. (Or more if you want to get adventurous )


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27 panoodles


    Which wiring method would i use, went back over thread and unsure which method use.

    My current alarm has no resistors installed. I just created a loop for the tamper?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Ideally the duel end of line for each as that will give you individual tampers for each zone. If your not too bothered on the tampers single end of line is fine also.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27 panoodles


    Koolkid, thanks for help and speedy reply.

    On a different alarm, hkc also, I am using wireless reed and shock sensor alarms, I have gross and pulse both set to 9. When I do a walk test and give the window or frame a small knock, alarm activates. How can I adjust them so they are not so sensitive, heavy rain would probably set them off!


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Gross & Pulse of 9 is the least sensitive. 4 or 5 is the norm.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27 panoodles


    Ya, but even wit both on 9, they are still way too sensitive.

    Do I have to chage any other settings any were else. The panel recognised they're were inertia dectors. I just set them as alarm, was I ment do something with zone options, inhibit or double knock or something like that?


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