HKC ALARM Installation

Thunderbird2

Just be careful where you place the keypad . Some companies place them right in view of any potential thieves at windows .. It's not that hard to see the code

BowWow

Can I start with easy questions?
One of the Zones on the old alarm was just for the landing window, no opening, so no contacts - just an Itec sensor. 4 wires, I assume I put the red and black into "Alarm" and the blue and yellow into "Tamper" on the Securewatch Zone that I select, having removed the "links" from the terminals. Should I fit a 4k7? If so where?

Thunderbird2

Yes

BowWow

Sorry, yes to which bit?

Thunderbird2

If its a shock sensor on the landing window it's red / black = alarm
Blue / yellow = tamper

BowWow

Thanks. Should I fit the resistor?

KoolKid

What way have you set up zone hardware in the programming?

BowWow

Was going to do all wiring before programming - is this not possible?

One united

Sounds to me like u just put the panel on the wall it will come factory set not to use any resistors except on the outside box it can be commissioned to use the resistors but in a domestic situation I don't see any need
As for the colours make them up just make sure u use the same colours at the panel
First thing I would do is take out all the existing contacts /sensors then
bell all the cables and mark at the panel then decide on your colour code (I've seen some very strange ways of how some guys wire things especially if there are resistors originally involved in the old aretec cs350 there are two sizes of resistor used, one type for the contact and the other for the tamper ,on the same zone.
So better off starting from scratch
Use the drawing that comes in the booklet it has everything you need to know about the panel in.
For commissioning use the centre pages
It might looking daunting but its quiet easy

BowWow

One united - I'm replacing an old system. Using black&red for "alarm" and using blue&yellow for "tamper". Reason I'm asking about the resistor is that I though different manufacturer's used different resistors and that HKC used 4k7. Top two diagrams in instructions 2.3 can be read as either needing or not needing a resistor fitted, especially diagram for single EOL on retrofit in a previous system.
I have taken the resistor from the panel for the SAAB connections as there is one in the bell box - learned that earlier in the thread:)
Panel is in, with power, although I havn't put fuse back in mains consumer unit. Keypad in and connected. Line to SAAB in and connected at panel - hope to put Saab up at w/e depending on weather. Collecting new smoke detector and PIR for conservatory tomorrow - wires in for them, but no doubt I'll have a few questions:o
I'm leaving the EE and other downstairs Zones till last as existing wiring on these is a nightmare.

One united

BowWow wrote: »

One united - I'm replacing an old system. Using black&red for "alarm" and using blue&yellow for "tamper". Reason I'm asking about the resistor is that I though different manufacturer's used different resistors and that HKC used 4k7. Top two diagrams in instructions 2.3 can be read as either needing or not needing a resistor fitted, especially diagram for single EOL on retrofit in a previous system.
I have taken the resistor from the panel for the SAAB connections as there is one in the bell box - learned that earlier in the thread:)
Panel is in, with power, although I havn't put fuse back in mains consumer unit. Keypad in and connected. Line to SAAB in and connected at panel - hope to put Saab up at w/e depending on weather. Collecting new smoke detector and PIR for conservatory tomorrow - wires in for them, but no doubt I'll have a few questions:o
I'm leaving the EE and other downstairs Zones till last as existing wiring on these is a nightmare.

Hkc does use 4k7 but only use on the Saab forget the zones
Throw away any other esp if your getting a new Saab
Take one of the 4k7 from the pack and connect to the out side connections ,Saab hold one leg and to panel connection the other leg
On the inside panel these connections are mimicked with another resistor take that one out throw it away (this one has its legs cut short and will not reach across the connections in the Saab ) connect cables in here,going outside you also have ex sounder pair and strobe pair which is doubled up with the internal sounder connections in the panel ,six cables in total
You know I wouldn't connect any of the zones till all the rest is done leave the links in and do them one at a time at your ease (by the way the links are creating the loop zone and tamper out on first leg returning on the next get your Saab going your internal sounder your keypad your battery's connected and turn on, get ready to put in 1111 to stop the noise ill leave this thread open and it will mail me if u have an issue

KoolKid

One United is correct. If you're not changing the settings in zone hardware then don't use any resistors on the zones.
For the external bell you use a single 4k7 resistor in series with the Tamper return.

BowWow

Hi guys,
does attached look ok? Thinking of going with Option 2 and terminating the Tamper in the Shock sensor.
Thanks for any advice.

One united

BowWow wrote: »

Hi guys,
does attached look ok? Thinking of going with Option 2 and terminating the Tamper in the Shock sensor.
Thanks for any advice.

Don't attach tamper to shock as it is always "live" even when the alarm is not armed so you open a window and it goes off even when dis armed ,not sure how to follow your drawing but keep looping the red wire through the contacts and shocks and at end return to the panel with the black

BowWow

Thanks One united.
I'm now looking at the existing porch wiring. Diagram attached - tried to keep simple. I have two queries on this - 1 The blue/yellow tamper is not used at all, surely it should be? and 2, the black/red terminate on one side of the shock sensor - should it not be either side of the "switch"?

One united

BowWow wrote: »

Thanks One united.
I'm now looking at the existing porch wiring. Diagram attached - tried to keep simple. I have two queries on this - 1 The blue/yellow tamper is not used at all, surely it should be? and 2, the black/red terminate on one side of the shock sensor - should it not be either side of the "switch"?

Right understand that drawing the black and red should be in a and b separately it has been bypassed must be something wrong with it maybe sensor was too sensitive or broken get a meter and bell it out to see is it ok
You can either introduce the tampers into the loop or not ,are the contacts the sealed type?or are they the terminal type? if terminal type then there is no tamper in them anyway but the shock at the end of the loop has one deff so you could connect it all the way along and use it at the end for the shock

BowWow

Thanks.
Contacts are terminal type.

BowWow

Week in bed with flu - just getting back to this.
Please see image.


Q1. What 2 terminals do I use for the PA?
Q2. Have connected + and - to new smoke alarm, but what 2 terminals do I use for the relay part of it?

One united

BowWow wrote: »

Week in bed with flu - just getting back to this.
Please see image.


Q1. What 2 terminals do I use for the PA?
Q2. Have connected + and - to new smoke alarm, but what 2 terminals do I use for the relay part of it?

Both into two diff zones and at programming stage it's changed in zone types leave tampers looped and un used

One united

One united wrote: »

Both into two diff zones and at programming stage it's changed in zone types leave tampers looped and un used

Sorry read question again on smoke red black +and - 12v green and yellow into zone that's the relay n/c

BowWow

Sorry, don't understand. I have a six core wire coming from upstairs. Blue and yellow from the PA in the bedroom. Black, red, green and white from the smoke alarm. I have put the red and black to the 12v on the panel. There are 4 terminals marked Fire PA,etc. on the panel - see image. I'm trying to figure how blue, yellow, green and white fit to these 4 terminals - 01,02,03 and 04...

One united

BowWow wrote: »

Sorry, don't understand. I have a six core wire coming from upstairs. Blue and yellow from the PA in the bedroom. Black, red, green and white from the smoke alarm. I have put the red and black to the 12v on the panel. There are 4 terminals marked Fire PA,etc. on the panel - see image. I'm trying to figure how blue, yellow, green and white fit to these 4 terminals - 01,02,03 and 04...

Ok those connections are for a digi dialler and can be confusing don't use them use a normal zone and it can be changed in zone types later(see centre pages) those connections are if you have an old dialler and one of the zones are changed in zone types to let's say fire then the head goes off panel spots and makes a switch and goes out on that fire connection to a Digi dialler and rings whoever to tell them there is a fire at your house kind of old technology ,now the panel can come with a" panel mounted pcb digi" that doesn't need any internal wires(plugs into the pcb left hand side High lookes like a series of holes good idea and not too expensive if u have a phone line) so black and red 12volts ,white and green into spare zone later to be changed in zone types to fire .blue and white in a diff spare zone later to be changed in zone types to pa hope this helps

Light Buzzyear

Hi Guys,

I'm wiring an internal echo bell on a HKC SW812 and want to connect the tamper wiring for it through the external bell tamper terminals on the panel (I could wire it into the tamper terminals on a free zone instead but I'd prefer not to as this would require a zone expander just to accommodate the internal bell). Could you advise on the best way of accomplishing this? Currently I have the tamper resistor in the SABB. Can I run the yellow tamper return from the SABB to the internal bell tamper and then back to the external bell tamper return terminal on the panel? Or do I need to add/change a tamper resistor either on the SABB or the internal bell?

Any input would be appreciated.

KoolKid

Light Buzzyear wrote: »

Can I run the yellow tamper return from the SABB to the internal bell tamper and then back to the external bell tamper return terminal on the panel?

That would work perfectly.

kevh1987

Hi all, I have a question for the experienced alarm guys on here, im an electrician and have fitted quite a few alarms. Im very picky when it comes to doing a neat job and the one thing I struggle with is bringing cables to window and doors neatly. Any advice or tips from the experts? Thanks guys.

Thunderbird2

Have you ever fished a cable down through PVC windows ? easy enough to do very neat and then seal any holes with brown or white silicon gel or some installers like to use brown or white thin trunking .

KoolKid

Cables go nicely down the tracks of PVC windows. If you wish to work around and seams drill each side and cover it with a junction box.

altor

kevh1987 wrote: »

Hi all, I have a question for the experienced alarm guys on here, im an electrician and have fitted quite a few alarms. Im very picky when it comes to doing a neat job and the one thing I struggle with is bringing cables to window and doors neatly. Any advice or tips from the experts? Thanks guys.

The neatest is chased out and filled over.
Mini trunken can also be used to good effect once filled on both sides. Can be painted over to which helps.

kevh1987

Thanks for the responses guys, went with the mini trunking, which I normally do. wish they did right angle bends for mini trunking, would be a very neat job then. One last question, can you wire two door contacts in parallel or must they be in series, they were wired using 4 core cable

KoolKid

kevh1987 wrote: »

Thanks for the responses guys, went with the mini trunking, which I normally do. wish they did right angle bends for mini trunking, would be a very neat job then. One last question, can you wire two door contacts in parallel or must they be in series, they were wired using 4 core cable

They must be in series. If they were in parallel both would need to be open before the zone would show open.