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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Hi,
    Great thread and I've tried to read as much as can to get an answer to my question, but gave up around page 20! So apologies if the answer is there somewhere.

    I am building a new house with a heating system that involves solar, oil, underfloor and a buffer tank. I also would like to link a stove into this system. However a plumber has said I cannot link the stove to the buffer tank because it is located in a plant room on the ground floor. He said the stove could only be linked to the hot water cylinder and towel rails upstairs because the stove has to work with gravity. However someone else I spoke to said there are stoves available that work by pump instead of gravity. (In case it's not already clear, I really am clueless about this stuff.)

    Basically I am looking for a stove that:

    (1) can feed into a buffer tank located on the same level

    (2) is multifuel with a removable grate for burning logs

    (3) is room-sealed and can use an external air supply (airtight house)

    (4) will put as little heat as possible into the room and as much as possible into the buffer tank

    I would appreciate if Stove Fan or anyone else could recommend a stove that meets this list.

    Hi, your plumber is part correct, the stove does need to work in part by gravity, ie towel rails and hot water cylinder.
    This is fine as when the pump isn't working (powercut) then these towel rads etc dissipate the heat from the boiler stove. Wouldn't it be possible to route pipework to the buffer and pump this part? Ie gravity circulation to towel rads and pumped circuit to buffer. This way you have the safety of gravity upstairs but get your buffer tank heated as well:) I would certainly insulate all pipe runs to buffer.

    Unfortunately there isn't a great deal of boiler stoves that are room sealed or fully room sealed.
    It looks like dunsley boiler stoves, the 8,10,16 and Yorkshire look like they have this option.
    http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/highland16CH.htm

    Dunsley yorkshire is a good stove.
    http://www.boilerstoves.co.uk/Dunsley-Yorkshire-boiler-stove-784.html

    http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/highland.htm

    Clearview 650/750 has the option of outside air kit, confirm if it applies to the boiler models. Can have up to 40,000btu around 12kw boiler.
    http://www.clearviewstoves.com/clearview650.htm

    There is also the Boru carraig Mor 20kw and 30kw stove.
    http://www.borustoves.ie/products/carraigmor.html

    Stanley models can come with air supply from 2011.

    http://www.waterfordstanley.com/stanley-stoves/room-heat-central-heating/solid-fuel/erin-stove.aspx

    http://www.waterfordstanley.com/stanley-stoves/room-heat-central-heating/solid-fuel/lismore-stove.aspx

    http://www.waterfordstanley.com/stanley-stoves/room-heat-central-heating/solid-fuel/reginald-stove.aspx

    http://www.waterfordstanley.com/stanley-stoves/room-heat-central-heating/solid-fuel/tara-stove.aspx

    There are probably other, but this is what I found on a search:)

    Whatever you do get your plumber to specify the boiler size and room heat required.

    Reviews on Dunsley and clearview here. www.whatstove.co.uk

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 551 ✭✭✭trevorbrady


    I bought a house with two stoves in it. After a few winters I'm considering ditching both of them and replacing with something more suitable.

    The previous owner of the house obviously spent a few quid extending and renovating etc but I think he didn't think through the stove selection properly.

    The kitchen/living and dining rooms are open plan and have an overall floor area of 64 sq. M. Doing the sums, this requires 9.4kW to heat and with a 75% efficient stove, would require approximately 13kW of stove output. There is a Stanley Erin in situ in the dining room with back boiler and TBH, it does a piss poor job of heating the space and the 8 radiators. It does neither job well. So the plan is to replace it with a non-boiler stove and just let the outdoor oil boiler deal with the central heating. All going well, we could even turn off the three radiators or at least turn them right down in the three rooms exposed to the heat of the stove.

    The other stove is in the living room is a Stanley Tara oil burning stove and it's an expensive ornament at the moment. In the years we've been here we used it twice and it stank up the house so we've avoided it since.

    The way I'm thinking at the moment is to swap the boiler stove for a properly specified non-boiler model, probably multi-fuel (maybe wood-only?) and swap the oil stove for a lesser specified wood-burning stove for occasional use only. Last winter we burned wood exclusively, the winter before, both wood and coal. We have taken delivery of another load of timber so I'm planning on wood-only from here on out.

    So, what I'm really asking is: what/where's the best value in stoves at the moment? I'm hoping I can sell off the two existing stoves on donedeal to fund their replacements, they're both enamel finish models so should make a reasonable price. It wouldn't bother me to buy matt-finish stoves as replacements. I have a quote of €1575 for an enamel Stanley Erin non-boiler which I think is excessive. I'd be hoping to replace both stoves for that. I'm not brand-snobby BTW ;)

    any help/pointers/advice appreciated :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    I bought a house with two stoves in it. After a few winters I'm considering ditching both of them and replacing with something more suitable.

    The previous owner of the house obviously spent a few quid extending and renovating etc but I think he didn't think through the stove selection properly.

    The kitchen/living and dining rooms are open plan and have an overall floor area of 64 sq. M. Doing the sums, this requires 9.4kW to heat and with a 75% efficient stove, would require approximately 13kW of stove output. There is a Stanley Erin in situ in the dining room with back boiler and TBH, it does a piss poor job of heating the space and the 8 radiators. It does neither job well. So the plan is to replace it with a non-boiler stove and just let the outdoor oil boiler deal with the central heating. All going well, we could even turn off the three radiators or at least turn them right down in the three rooms exposed to the heat of the stove.

    The other stove is in the living room is a Stanley Tara oil burning stove and it's an expensive ornament at the moment. In the years we've been here we used it twice and it stank up the house so we've avoided it since.

    The way I'm thinking at the moment is to swap the boiler stove for a properly specified non-boiler model, probably multi-fuel (maybe wood-only?) and swap the oil stove for a lesser specified wood-burning stove for occasional use only. Last winter we burned wood exclusively, the winter before, both wood and coal. We have taken delivery of another load of timber so I'm planning on wood-only from here on out.

    So, what I'm really asking is: what/where's the best value in stoves at the moment? I'm hoping I can sell off the two existing stoves on donedeal to fund their replacements, they're both enamel finish models so should make a reasonable price. It wouldn't bother me to buy matt-finish stoves as replacements. I have a quote of €1575 for an enamel Stanley Erin non-boiler which I think is excessive. I'd be hoping to replace both stoves for that. I'm not brand-snobby BTW ;)

    any help/pointers/advice appreciated :)

    Hi, I calculate you need a max of 10kw to heat the open plan space based on 8mx8m, with 2.4m heigh ceilings.

    I would say it's a case of shopping around for the best price/deals whether here or the UK. On google uk type multifuel stoves:) We ordered our villager stove from the UK as it was cheaper.

    Are you absolutely sure you want to ditch your boiler stove because surely with the cost of oil it would pay, if you could get it working better or a replacement? It has a 45,000btu boiler so should do better. A person who did work on our house has a stanley erin but it didn't work great probably due to the rubbish install and plumbing install. Trapped air due to pipework running down from stove, undersized pipework, not crossflowed, excessive horizontal flue, no heat leak rad, no seperate feed and vent. vented using oil vent. Pipe stat on pipe miles away that never got hot so stove just boiled. In other words a right hash job.
    I wouldn't be without our boiler stove:DIn fact it's our only form of heating. Maybe the stove is running all doubles or large rads and so undersized?
    Granted it should half heat the space:(
    ours stove produces 3kw to the room of 28sqm and heated it well even in that cold winter, but it's a well insulated detatched bungalow.

    I myself would evaluate the boiler stove and installation before condeming it. See if it's plumbed in correctly, install a small multifuel stove in the living room.
    If you would measure the rads and note if doubles or singles I'll see if the stove is undersized if you want me too:).

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 551 ✭✭✭trevorbrady


    much obliged :)

    radiators:

    1.6M x 0.5M double
    1.0M x 0.5M double
    2.0M x 0.5M double
    1.2M x 0.3M double
    0.6M x 0.5M double
    1.2M x 0.5M single
    1.2M x 0.5M double
    1.2M x 0.5M single
    1.2M x 0.5M single

    the house is basically divided in two, the older section, built 1975ish and contains the bedrooms and bathroom. The newer section, built 2005ish has the open plan kitchen, dining, living rooms plus a small utility. Even with no heating on, the new section is way warmer than the old section.

    My thinking is that we use solid fuel to heat the new section, turn off/down the radiators in the new section, close the door between the new and old parts of the house and just let the oil heat the bedrooms. The old section has already had the walls pumped with styrofoam beads and I stripped out the old 100m fibreglass loft insulation last year and refitted 300mm glasswool instead. All windows are double glazed. So the old section is as well insulated as possible without cladding the outside.

    I just didn't feel like we were getting any result from the radiators on the stove alone. When the oil boiler kicked in, it warmed the radiators up better than just the stove but after the oil kicked out again, the stove didn't really maintain the heat in the radiators. Plus there was an overflowing issue with the c/h header tank, with both oil burning and the stove well fired up, it would overflow warm water out the eave pipe occasionally. Had a plumber look at it and after replacing a seized water pump on the boiler he thought he had it sorted until it happened again. Since the weather warmed up a bit I haven't gone after the problem. I'm hoping that ditching the back boiler stove in favour of a non-boiler model will solve a few problems.

    **EDIT** just re-read this bit:
    A person who did work on our house has a stanley erin but it didn't work great probably due to the rubbish install and plumbing install. Trapped air due to pipework running down from stove, undersized pipework, not crossflowed, excessive horizontal flue, no heat leak rad, no seperate feed and vent. vented using oil vent. Pipe stat on pipe miles away that never got hot so stove just boiled. In other words a right hash job.

    not much of that makes much sense to me except I know the pipe-stat on the system is a good bit away from the stove. Does that make a big difference?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    much obliged :)

    radiators:

    1.6M x 0.5M double
    1.0M x 0.5M double
    2.0M x 0.5M double
    1.2M x 0.3M double
    0.6M x 0.5M double
    1.2M x 0.5M single
    1.2M x 0.5M double
    1.2M x 0.5M single
    1.2M x 0.5M single

    the house is basically divided in two, the older section, built 1975ish and contains the bedrooms and bathroom. The newer section, built 2005ish has the open plan kitchen, dining, living rooms plus a small utility. Even with no heating on, the new section is way warmer than the old section.

    My thinking is that we use solid fuel to heat the new section, turn off/down the radiators in the new section, close the door between the new and old parts of the house and just let the oil heat the bedrooms. The old section has already had the walls pumped with styrofoam beads and I stripped out the old 100m fibreglass loft insulation last year and refitted 300mm glasswool instead. All windows are double glazed. So the old section is as well insulated as possible without cladding the outside.

    I just didn't feel like we were getting any result from the radiators on the stove alone. When the oil boiler kicked in, it warmed the radiators up better than just the stove but after the oil kicked out again, the stove didn't really maintain the heat in the radiators. Plus there was an overflowing issue with the c/h header tank, with both oil burning and the stove well fired up, it would overflow warm water out the eave pipe occasionally. Had a plumber look at it and after replacing a seized water pump on the boiler he thought he had it sorted until it happened again. Since the weather warmed up a bit I haven't gone after the problem. I'm hoping that ditching the back boiler stove in favour of a non-boiler model will solve a few problems.

    **EDIT** just re-read this bit:



    not much of that makes much sense to me except I know the pipe-stat on the system is a good bit away from the stove. Does that make a big difference?

    Hi, I have calculated you need a 18kw back boiler stove to heat everything including hot water, although it would need to be a bit more powerfull if not using coal or the wood fire wasn't roaring for a good hour. I find a lively fire is essential for the first hour.

    Your stove isn't far off so I'm highly suspicious of this problem with overflowing and should certainly get 6 rads hot after about 60-90 minutes with a good fire going.

    You shouldn't run the stove and oil boiler together unless specially linked using a systemlink or centraliser. Otherwise you may well get pumping over/pitching problems and possible water running out the overflow pipe.

    See if the water is warm in the smaller tank in loft etc when the fire is lit without the oil boiler on and see if any water comes out the vent pipe. It is probably poor pump positioning on the solid fuel fire or using both boilers together. This is probably where your heat is going by heating up the water in the cold feed and expansion tank. Do you always use both boilers together? Try the fire without the oil being on.
    If your system isn't linked using a system link you should have 2 central heating pumps, one near the oil boiler or inside the boiler case and one near the boiler stove. Running both pumps will cause issues as they are conflicting with each other.

    The pipe stat needs to be on the flow pipe that actually gets hot. Normally near the stove on the flow pipework or on the gravity flow pipework to the hot water cylinder. This is the pipework linking the stove to the hot water cylinder and should always be in 1 inch diameter pipe which doesn't require a pump to circulate the hot water through it.

    After 15 minutes of the fire lit go and feel the pipe that the pipe thermostat is attatched too. If it's getting warm/hot it seems correctly positioned. If not follow the hot pipe from stove along, this is where the pipe stat needs moving too.

    Stove Fan:)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 551 ✭✭✭trevorbrady


    thanks again stove fan. I'll get a good fire going tonight and make sure the oil boiler is off and see how things pan out.

    It feels weird lighting a fire in the middle of June :eek:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 44 jack12a


    Hello all,

    I am going to replace my 16" open fire with a non boiler inset stove my room requires approx 5kw to heat it, I have narrowed my choice down to 2 makes the clearview vision inset 5kw or woodwarm 4k or 6.5kw I would be grateful for any advice on these inset stoves.
    Also I intend to install a 6" 316 flexi liner into a 8" clay liner the house is 2 story and the chimney is straight and 9mts high and in the middle of the house, Q would there enough room between flexi liner and clay liner to insulate. or would it be ok to leave it uninsulated.

    Regards


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 551 ✭✭✭trevorbrady


    thanks again stove fan. I'll get a good fire going tonight and make sure the oil boiler is off and see how things pan out.

    It feels weird lighting a fire in the middle of June :eek:

    I didn't get around to it last night but the stove is stocked up and a good wood fire burning since about 4.30 this afternoon. As I type, the radiators are only barely warm (like just gone off cold) in the top inch only. The rest of the radiators are basically cold.

    We also drew a bath for the little one, no hot water from the stove, again, just barely off cold. Resorted to boiling kettles to heat up the bath...

    There has been no over flow out the eave outlet as of yet. The oil boiler is fully off and won't kick in on the timer at all so the stove is responsible for any heat/water/overflowing issues, should there be any :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 229 ✭✭emg74


    emg74 wrote: »
    Well, we have had a bit of a crazy busy week. Advertised our old stove on DoneDeal last Thursday morning, had a buyer at asking price by 3pm. Everything had to be disconnected over the weekend to have it ready for its new owner on Monday. We decided that we were going to change hearth too - we had liscannor stone which was impossible to keep clean so decided to go with granite. Organized that with a local man who does granite work. He had it ready on Monday, so got that on Tuesday morning. Hubby & guy next door got it fitted on Tuesday night. Plumber arrived yesterday evening when he finished at work and himself and hubby started the work yesterday evening... Worked out really well. Not a lot of changing of pipes to be done and a small fire was lit @ 11pm last night. Wasn't sure how it was working out as it seemed to take ages to get heat in cylinder or rads. In the end we just switched off the pump to heat the rads so as to get the cylinder hot first.

    Really testing it out today and so far I am very impressed. The cylinder is hot (It was warm from last night) and there is great heat in the rads - the fire has been on for about 1hr 45mins

    I will pop up some photos when we get everything tidied up and presentable. Still have bricks to put back into the fireplace and to cover up the pipes etc

    Finally popping up some pics of the Stratford EB12 Stove - We have it installed about 10days at this stage & I am so happy with it.

    I can't believe the heat in the rads without having a massive fire on. To be honest I don't think it uses much more fuel than we used to use with our old stove.

    We have done a calculation of the cost and at the minute the stove is costing us about €1600 (incl cost of stove, new hearth, plumber minus what we got from sale of old stove).

    We have loads of hot water and there is lots of heat in the radiators (even on the days I am working and without a fire till about 6.30pm).

    Thanks again Stove Fan for your advice, it was invaluable. Found out that the stat is on the flow pipe in the attic but we are going to move it to the pipe coming from the cylinder so that the priority goes to getting the cylinder hot first


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 702 ✭✭✭wreckless


    jack12a wrote: »
    Hello all,

    I am going to replace my 16" open fire with a non boiler inset stove my room requires approx 5kw to heat it, I have narrowed my choice down to 2 makes the clearview vision inset 5kw or woodwarm 4k or 6.5kw I would be grateful for any advice on these inset stoves.
    Also I intend to install a 6" 316 flexi liner into a 8" clay liner the house is 2 story and the chimney is straight and 9mts high and in the middle of the house, Q would there enough room between flexi liner and clay liner to insulate. or would it be ok to leave it uninsulated.

    Regards

    couldnt recommend it enough. we put in an inset stove last year and its athe Boru inset, small heart in irish i think. some serious heat out of it, cannot sit in the room without the door open! u would pass out... great heat for such a small stove, very efficient also.

    now, i am kinda sorry o didnt perhaps go for a boiler stove and had piped the yoke up to the heating too. but it would ave been a good weeks work or so. but then, thats all it is, oh and an extra grand or 2 probably. ;)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 702 ✭✭✭wreckless


    on the insulation, the installer should know best, but we had ours fully packed out behind with rockwool anyway afaik


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭darkhorse


    thanks again stove fan. I'll get a good fire going tonight and make sure the oil boiler is off and see how things pan out.

    It feels weird lighting a fire in the middle of June :eek:

    Hi,

    Just want to tell you that I was thinking to myself, how weird is it to have a big fire going near the last week in June, literally 30 seconds before I read your post.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    I didn't get around to it last night but the stove is stocked up and a good wood fire burning since about 4.30 this afternoon. As I type, the radiators are only barely warm (like just gone off cold) in the top inch only. The rest of the radiators are basically cold.

    We also drew a bath for the little one, no hot water from the stove, again, just barely off cold. Resorted to boiling kettles to heat up the bath...

    There has been no over flow out the eave outlet as of yet. The oil boiler is fully off and won't kick in on the timer at all so the stove is responsible for any heat/water/overflowing issues, should there be any :)

    Hi, could you post up some pictures of your stoves plumbing:) Was the water warm in the small feed/expansion tank? What is your pump speed set too for the stove? 2or3?
    Where is your pipe stat located and did the pipe heat up and the stat switch on the pump? What is the pipe stat temp set at?
    The photos may well help.
    The heat must be going somewhere. Is the wood well dry and well loaded and roaring for a good hour? Is the thermostat on full on the rear of the stove? Does the chimney draw well?


    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    emg74 wrote: »
    Finally popping up some pics of the Stratford EB12 Stove - We have it installed about 10days at this stage & I am so happy with it.

    I can't believe the heat in the rads without having a massive fire on. To be honest I don't think it uses much more fuel than we used to use with our old stove.

    We have done a calculation of the cost and at the minute the stove is costing us about €1600 (incl cost of stove, new hearth, plumber minus what we got from sale of old stove).

    We have loads of hot water and there is lots of heat in the radiators (even on the days I am working and without a fire till about 6.30pm).

    Thanks again Stove Fan for your advice, it was invaluable. Found out that the stat is on the flow pipe in the attic but we are going to move it to the pipe coming from the cylinder so that the priority goes to getting the cylinder hot first

    Excellent result, At least you'll have a house warm all over now:D

    Glad I was of help, excellent:D. It, looks very well in the brick fireplace.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    jack12a wrote: »
    Hello all,

    I am going to replace my 16" open fire with a non boiler inset stove my room requires approx 5kw to heat it, I have narrowed my choice down to 2 makes the clearview vision inset 5kw or woodwarm 4k or 6.5kw I would be grateful for any advice on these inset stoves.
    Also I intend to install a 6" 316 flexi liner into a 8" clay liner the house is 2 story and the chimney is straight and 9mts high and in the middle of the house, Q would there enough room between flexi liner and clay liner to insulate. or would it be ok to leave it uninsulated.

    Regards

    To be honest they are both excellent makes:) Clearview is probably the more known but woodwarm is cheaper but still made to a great quality standard but with the same features as the clearview inserts. It really depends on which you prefer!

    Myself it would be the woodwarm fireview 6.5kw as your room requires 5kw so the 4kw would be too small of an output.
    See a woodwarm 6.5kw insert burning here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCMmV4vszEs
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCMmV4vszEs
    Clearview vision burning. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkINRoIyon4
    If you were interested in a boiler version they do boiler options on the woodwarm 6.5kw as well, but it would need to be sized/verified to see if it was large enough to heat your rads. Or another boiler stove.

    It really isn't generally necessary to insulate around the flue liner on your house as the chimney is internal and not built on an end wall externally.
    If you can insulate it though, why not:) Use vermiculite.

    Have a look at www.whatstove.co.uk for reviews of clearview and woodwarm.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    jbyrne10 wrote: »
    Hi,

    Just want to tell you that I was thinking to myself, how weird is it to have a big fire going near the last week in June, literally 30 seconds before I read your post.

    Certainly is:eek: Lit our stove this afternoon, just ticking over to get the 5 rads warm and take the slight coolness off the house.
    Haven't lit it much this month though but still light it sometimes, more for the cheery glow on a rainy/wet day:D

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 44 jack12a


    hello Stove Fan,

    Thanks for your advice it is as always top drawer, as you say woodwarm 6.5kw looks a super inset stove, the issue I have with it is as follows my existing fireplace has a v nice wood surround (which I hope to retain) with a standard 920mm X 920mm fire back with will be replaced by a black marble one, the woodwarm is 690mm h X 775mm w which would bring it very close to wood surround, the clearview is 570mm h X 560mm w which would give a bit more space between stove and surround, your view on this would be helpful,

    Regarding flexi liner would vermiculite be easy to install between flexi and clay liner as there would be only 1" all round between them over a 9 meter chimney which has had a good bit of use over 20yrs, your advice that I can use flexi liner with out insulating leaves me with a plan B.

    One more Q I think clearview do not recommend stove is in cased in insulation would that be a drawback to getting this stove ??.

    Regards


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    jack12a wrote: »
    hello Stove Fan,

    Thanks for your advice it is as always top drawer, as you say woodwarm 6.5kw looks a super inset stove, the issue I have with it is as follows my existing fireplace has a v nice wood surround (which I hope to retain) with a standard 920mm X 920mm fire back with will be replaced by a black marble one, the woodwarm is 690mm h X 775mm w which would bring it very close to wood surround, the clearview is 570mm h X 560mm w which would give a bit more space between stove and surround, your view on this would be helpful,

    Regarding flexi liner would vermiculite be easy to install between flexi and clay liner as there would be only 1" all round between them over a 9 meter chimney which has had a good bit of use over 20yrs, your advice that I can use flexi liner with out insulating leaves me with a plan B.

    One more Q I think clearview do not recommend stove is in cased in insulation would that be a drawback to getting this stove ??.

    Regards

    Hi, I have looked at the installation instructions for the fireview 6.5kw
    http://www.woodwarm.co.uk/Fireview%20Insets%20Models%20M47.pdf
    and it would seem they quote 15 inches away from anything combustible:(.

    Personally I would send an email or phone them and ask what the minimum clearance is with the insert stove to a wooden fire surround:) 15 inches seems a long way away, best to ask them to confirm.

    I would do the same with clearview and ask them about backfilling with vermiculite.

    With regards to backfilling the flue your clay liner is probably 8 inches internal so 2 inches difference. The vermiculite should pour down realatively easy providing it's not windy. Again it's really up to you if you want to backfill the chimney.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 44 jack12a


    Hello stove Fan,

    I will take all your advice on board best to contact makers first to avoid costly mistakes.

    Regards


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40 Mcorriga


    Hi all,(Including Stovefan!!)

    Have currently started a new build and am planning on installing two stoves.

    The stoves i am thinking of getting are the

    Morso squirrel and a Stockton 8 double sided stove

    http://www.whatstove.co.uk/morso-stoves/morso-squirrel-cleanheat-stove.html

    http://www.whatstove.co.uk/stovax-stockton/stovax-stockton-8-stove.html

    The price I am being quoted for both are 750 and 1400

    i was wondering if anybody has any opinion on the above stoves and if they could recommended an alternative if they had a choice

    I really need to decide on the double sided stove soon as this will affect the internal block work.

    Also how much room should be leave to either side of the stove so that we get maximum convection?
    Also how much of the flue would people recommend to be exposed before going into the chimney


    Thanks all


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Mcorriga wrote: »
    Hi all,(Including Stovefan!!)

    Have currently started a new build and am planning on installing two stoves.

    The stoves i am thinking of getting are the

    Morso squirrel and a Stockton 8 double sided stove

    http://www.whatstove.co.uk/morso-stoves/morso-squirrel-cleanheat-stove.html

    http://www.whatstove.co.uk/stovax-stockton/stovax-stockton-8-stove.html

    The price I am being quoted for both are 750 and 1400

    i was wondering if anybody has any opinion on the above stoves and if they could recommended an alternative if they had a choice

    I really need to decide on the double sided stove soon as this will affect the internal block work.

    Also how much room should be leave to either side of the stove so that we get maximum convection?
    Also how much of the flue would people recommend to be exposed before going into the chimney


    Thanks all

    Hi the morso squirrel is a superb stove, just be aware the cleanheat model can't be fully closed down as to make it clean burning the air supply to the fire can't be fully closed, so may not stay in overnight as the standard version. If you don't need a cleanburning squirrel consider the standard version.

    With regards to the stovax stockton double sided I personally dont rate stovax. It's really a midrange stove. A bit like the hunter herald double sided. The stovax is better than hunter though.

    Consider a woodwarm double sided even though it's quite a bit dearer.
    http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/double-sided-range/theversatilityofthefireviewdoublesidedrange.ashx An 8kw stove is quite a big beastie. We have an 8kw stove with wraparound boiler to heat our 100sqm detatched bungalow. up to 7.6kw to water. 2-3kw to room. Room with stove is 28sqm with 2.75m ceiling height.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40 Mcorriga


    thanks stovefan for your suggestions, will look into the woodwarm I see they sell them in a few locations in Ireland

    As for the 8kw stove it is heating a large open plan area of 4.6m x 10.7mx 2.7m. also from this room you can open into a large conservotory 3.8 x5.8 x 3.5...All the rooms will be well insulated...Do you think 8kw will be enough??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 322 ✭✭Gaffs89


    Ok lads , need some help.I'm thinking of getting a non boiler stove. The room is 17ft wide 16.5 ft long and 8ft high, the online calculators are saying I need a 5kw , but 2 local stores have both said I need 8kw. Are they wrong?
    Thanks
    Gaffs


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Mcorriga wrote: »
    thanks stovefan for your suggestions, will look into the woodwarm I see they sell them in a few locations in Ireland

    As for the 8kw stove it is heating a large open plan area of 4.6m x 10.7mx 2.7m. also from this room you can open into a large conservotory 3.8 x5.8 x 3.5...All the rooms will be well insulated...Do you think 8kw will be enough??

    Hi, it's very hard to say what output stove should heat the space without knowing what insulation spec the property is being built too.

    Personally I would guess anything from 8kw to 12kw. The online stove heat calculaters list 10kw for main room and 6kw for the conservatory.

    They do seem to air on the cautious side and seem to over specify the heat output needed.

    Your provisional BER should give you the heat loss of the main room and conservatory or your architect may be able to work it out.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Gaffs89 wrote: »
    Ok lads , need some help.I'm thinking of getting a non boiler stove. The room is 17ft wide 16.5 ft long and 8ft high, the online calculators are saying I need a 5kw , but 2 local stores have both said I need 8kw. Are they wrong?
    Thanks
    Gaffs

    We have a 28 square metre living room with an 8ft 6 heigh ceiling. Double door and single exterior door, both double glazed.
    New rear extension with 70mm cavity insulation plus 38mm kingspan backed with 12mm plasterboard internal drylining.
    Roof insulation only 8 inches. 6inch floor insulation.

    Personally I find a 3kw output from our boiler stove more than adequate even when we had that freezing cold spell the winter before.

    Personally I think you will be fine at 5kw unless the room is north facing, stone built, no insulation, drafty etc:D.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 322 ✭✭Gaffs89


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Gaffs89 wrote: »
    Ok lads , need some help.I'm thinking of getting a non boiler stove. The room is 17ft wide 16.5 ft long and 8ft high, the online calculators are saying I need a 5kw , but 2 local stores have both said I need 8kw. Are they wrong?
    Thanks
    Gaffs

    We have a 28 square metre living room with an 8ft 6 heigh ceiling. Double door and single exterior door, both double glazed.
    New rear extension with 70mm cavity insulation plus 38mm kingspan backed with 12mm plasterboard internal drylining.
    Roof insulation only 8 inches. 6inch floor insulation.

    Personally I find a 3kw output from our boiler stove more than adequate even when we had that freezing cold spell the winter before.

    Personally I think you will be fine at 5kw unless the room is north facing, stone built, no insulation, drafty etc:D.

    Stove Fan:)
    Thanks for the quick reply.The house is only 12 years old , insulated per regulations at the time,block built and east facing.I'll start looking at 5kw ones.Thanks again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 222 ✭✭major deegan


    Hi stove fan, just wanted to get your valued opinion on this one.Wanted to fit a boiler stove to dormer house with total of 21 rads with 7 of those being doubles and divided into 3 zones,the upstair zone being seldom used.I had a horseflame 26kw recomended to me and also a blasket 21kw.Do you think either of these are sufficient considering i would only use 2 zones together at any given time.If you have any recomendations of your own i'd greatly appreciate it and thanks very much for your input.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Hi stove fan, just wanted to get your valued opinion on this one.Wanted to fit a boiler stove to dormer house with total of 21 rads with 7 of those being doubles and divided into 3 zones,the upstair zone being seldom used.I had a horseflame 26kw recomended to me and also a blasket 21kw.Do you think either of these are sufficient considering i would only use 2 zones together at any given time.If you have any recomendations of your own i'd greatly appreciate it and thanks very much for your input.

    Hi, the horseflame produces 10kw to room and 16kw to water.

    see http://www.irelandstoves.ie/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=131

    The blasket produces 6kw to room and 15kw to water.

    http://www.thestoveshop.ie/modules/store/The-Henley-Blasket-21kW_P163226.cfm

    Personally though I would measure the rads you definately want to heat on the 2 zones plus the 3rd zone seperate and I will give better advice:)

    Please make sure to measure the room the stove is going into as you dont want to roast with a too high room heat output from the stove.

    I quite like the aarrow ecoboiler range.
    The EB20 may be suitable depending on room heat requirements.
    http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb20-he.html
    Or EB16.
    http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb16-he.html

    Or the older designed TF90 although I wouldn't really reccommend it:rolleyes: Prefer the newer models for reliability and better features.
    http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/stratford-tf90b-boiler-stove.html It's apparently the most powerfull and has a low room output.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 222 ✭✭major deegan


    Thanks for the reply,I had'nt considered the room the stove will be situated which is the kitchen/dining and measures 24 ft x 16 ft and 8 ft ceilings.The 3 zones i mentioned before are broke up as follows, zone 1 is downstairs kit,L/r and hall and has 1 7ft dbl,2 3ft dbl,1 2ft dbl and 4 3ft singles....zone 2 downstairs bedrooms and has 2 3ft dbl,1 2ft dbl, 1 4ft single and 1 2ft single.....zone 3 is upstairs and consists of 6 3ft singles,1 5ft single and 1 2ft single,this is the zone that's seldom used.I currently never run 3 zones together and whenever i run the upstairs zone it wold be on it's own.Hope you're able to make that out and see what you think.Once again thanks for your time and much valued informaton on here.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Thanks for the reply,I had'nt considered the room the stove will be situated which is the kitchen/dining and measures 24 ft x 16 ft and 8 ft ceilings.The 3 zones i mentioned before are broke up as follows, zone 1 is downstairs kit,L/r and hall and has 1 7ft dbl,2 3ft dbl,1 2ft dbl and 4 3ft singles....zone 2 downstairs bedrooms and has 2 3ft dbl,1 2ft dbl, 1 4ft single and 1 2ft single.....zone 3 is upstairs and consists of 6 3ft singles,1 5ft single and 1 2ft single,this is the zone that's seldom used.I currently never run 3 zones together and whenever i run the upstairs zone it wold be on it's own.Hope you're able to make that out and see what you think.Once again thanks for your time and much valued informaton on here.

    Hi I have calculated the boiler output of Zone 1 and 2 and the boiler output needed is around 18kw to water.

    The room requires around 6.2kw to heat it based on average insulation.

    None of the stoves fit the bill exactly except the Stratford TF90 which gives only 4.5kw to the room. (would need a rad on in here to make up the difference) and produces a max of 24kw, so in theory should heat everything. I dont rate them though:(

    Personally though the next best option is the blasket as it produces 6kw to room and 15 kw to water but wouldn't heat all the rads on zone 1&2. You would need to turn 2-3 off. I have no experiance of the blasket though:(

    If your Kitchen/diner has several doors radiating off for the EB16 or the heat can spread through double doors to upstairs on the EB20 you may get away with the EB16 or the EB20.
    Just make sure though you get a second opinion before ordering as I don't want to roast you out in the room with stove.

    Stove Fan:)


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