STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

raglan

Thanks for recommendations Stovefan, we are mostly looking at heating just upstairs rads with boiler stove and having hot water on tap so will look at EB12 stove probably, and ask about EB16. Don't really mind about downstairs rads as don't wanna be put out of house with heat with hot rads and stove on. Stratford stoves look nice and compact for our room and seems to meet our needs, have saw from here that others seem with them too.

cordni

stove fan... as the resident expert ... as you know I cannot get a boiler stove due to my heating system... well I can if I can pay about 4k which at the moment is a non runner. so my thoughts are, as a first timer with stoves, go for a cheaper stove see how it goes and then decide on whether the 4k investment is worth it. I had my heart set on a morso squirrel which would cost about 800 euro, I am concerned about the size of the "fire box" is that what you call it ?? have seen a blacksmith anvil which seems to have bigger firebox at half the price..... what do you think for a first timer with stoves. I want to keep costs down but don't want to buy a blacksmith if it wont last approx 5 years.

Stove Fan

cordni wrote: »

stove fan... as the resident expert ... as you know I cannot get a boiler stove due to my heating system... well I can if I can pay about 4k which at the moment is a non runner. so my thoughts are, as a first timer with stoves, go for a cheaper stove see how it goes and then decide on whether the 4k investment is worth it. I had my heart set on a morso squirrel which would cost about 800 euro, I am concerned about the size of the "fire box" is that what you call it ?? have seen a blacksmith anvil which seems to have bigger firebox at half the price..... what do you think for a first timer with stoves. I want to keep costs down but don't want to buy a blacksmith if it wont last approx 5 years.

Your plan sounds good. Try before spending a large amount.

Hi, I have no experiance of blacksmith stoves except a forge boiler stove. It seemed built ok but not as well made/known as a morso.

It should certainly last 5 years but who knows? You would probably get a better return if selling the morso second hand than the anvil.
Yes the inside is known as the firebox:D

The decision is yours:D

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

raglan wrote: »

Thanks for recommendations Stovefan, we are mostly looking at heating just upstairs rads with boiler stove and having hot water on tap so will look at EB12 stove probably, and ask about EB16. Don't really mind about downstairs rads as don't wanna be put out of house with heat with hot rads and stove on. Stratford stoves look nice and compact for our room and seems to meet our needs, have saw from here that others seem with them too.

Please be aware that the room output of 6kw on the EB12HE stove is lower than the EB16 and so you may need a couple of the downstairs rads on anyway ie conservatory. The EB12 should run the upstairs and a couple of downstairs rads fine, but not all of them as you have many rads downstairs:). You wouldn't have the rads on in the room with stove and probably kitchen as the stove will heat the space.

Stove Fan:)

raglan

Thanks Stovefan, went to look at both this morning, still mulling stuff over. As I said kitchen leads into conservatory, right outside sitting room. Will think about it further, as don't want to rush into anything. Thanks a million for advice, they are a nice looking stove and compact exactly what we are looking for.

gcsherwood

We just purchased a house in southwest Donegal. We are new to boiler stoves, and the house is heated by a Stanley Super 90 which has seen better days. There are cracks in the cast iron, and the grates and dampers are broken. It does work, but considering that we have no need of the integrated oven and the repair work necessary to bring it up to scratch we think we should just replace it with a boiler stove. Besides, flames are pretty!

We have a 1400 sq ft semi detached with 10 radiators of various sizes. The stove is in the kitchen, which is about 10 ft x 20 ft. We do plan on cutting a 5-6 ft opening into the end wall to create a separate dining room. The room we will be joining onto the kitchen already has its own radiator as well (actually the kitchen also has one which I find somewhat surprising -- the Stanley does throw out some heat.

My wife would really like to get one with an enamel finish. Friends of ours have a small Stanley in a brown enamel which is easy to clean and looks great.

thanks for any advice!

Stove Fan

gcsherwood wrote: »

We just purchased a house in southwest Donegal. We are new to boiler stoves, and the house is heated by a Stanley Super 90 which has seen better days. There are cracks in the cast iron, and the grates and dampers are broken. It does work, but considering that we have no need of the integrated oven and the repair work necessary to bring it up to scratch we think we should just replace it with a boiler stove. Besides, flames are pretty!

We have a 1400 sq ft semi detached with 10 radiators of various sizes. The stove is in the kitchen, which is about 10 ft x 20 ft. We do plan on cutting a 5-6 ft opening into the end wall to create a separate dining room. The room we will be joining onto the kitchen already has its own radiator as well (actually the kitchen also has one which I find somewhat surprising -- the Stanley does throw out some heat.

My wife would really like to get one with an enamel finish. Friends of ours have a small Stanley in a brown enamel which is easy to clean and looks great.

thanks for any advice!

Hi, I can only give you a very rough idea on boiler size as I don't know your rad sizes. I would quess with the size of the house something with a 15kw back boiler should do. Please confirm with plumber. You are probably looking for a stove with a room output of around 4kw to heat the 20ftx10ft room. Add a bit more on as your opening up to create another room. Possibly 7kw max to room. Please bear in mind if some of the rad(s) you have counted are in kitchen these won't need to be on or included in the calculation. Ie if you have 10 rads and one is in the kitchen with stove you only need to heat 9:).

The radiator was probably installed as the previous person felt the cold or at the time it had two heat sources? Rad in the room needed for oil use when range wasn't lit.
Or it was already installed if they removed an oil boiler some years back and installed the range. Or if a bungalow it may be a heat leak rad:)

I personally would avoid the enamel finish as once chipped you will always see it. Some enamel stoves the colour can fade. With being black a quick rub down and respray and it looks as good as new:D

What style do you like?

Stove Fan:)

seannash

Bit of a strange question but here goes.
we have an old georgian house gutted and ready to install the heating sytem.
We like the idea of a stove with a back boiler to run our rads in the house aswell as hot water,supplimented by Gas when needed.

The thing is,we dont particularly like the look of stoves and prefer an open fire but obviously this isn't the most effeicnet way to use a backboiler.

So were wondering if we can have a stove flue installed in the chimney.
So basically we will have an open fire with a metal flue.
we then would want a door on the opening so we could seal the opening to the fire in order to stop a draught going up the chimney and hopefully make the burning more efficent.
The door would be removeable so if we wanted we could have the open fire if we wanted.

Basically its an insert stove but any of the current insert stoves restrict the openings to a small opening.

Would something like this be possible or even anymore efficent than an open fire?

Stove Fan

seannash wrote: »

Bit of a strange question but here goes.
we have an old georgian house gutted and ready to install the heating sytem.
We like the idea of a stove with a back boiler to run our rads in the house aswell as hot water,supplimented by Gas when needed.

The thing is,we dont particularly like the look of stoves and prefer an open fire but obviously this isn't the most effeicnet way to use a backboiler.

So were wondering if we can have a stove flue installed in the chimney.
So basically we will have an open fire with a metal flue.
we then would want a door on the opening so we could seal the opening to the fire in order to stop a draught going up the chimney and hopefully make the burning more efficent.
The door would be removeable so if we wanted we could have the open fire if we wanted.

Basically its an insert stove but any of the current insert stoves restrict the openings to a small opening.

Would something like this be possible or even anymore efficent than an open fire?

What you are really describing is an open fire with doors. They have them in america and are available in the EU. An open fire with glass doors that can be opened.
http://www.fentonfires.ie/product.php/Jotul-model-18/25/

http://www.energyfires.co.uk/

If you wanted this with a back boiler you would either be limited to an 18 inch wide opening, to buy a standard width open fire boiler or have a custom made boiler to the width you wanted. If a back boiler is important you can't beat a stove with inbuilt boiler.


I don't think it would be very efficient as the doors would trap in heat and send it up the chimney and when open no great control on the burn rate.

What I would do myself though is buy a good quality stove:D. Clearview/woodwarm where the glass stays clean for maximum view. Some stoves you can have the doors open, although seriously reduces efficiency.

Stove Fan:)

seannash

Stove Fan wrote: »

seannash wrote: »

Bit of a strange question but here goes.
we have an old georgian house gutted and ready to install the heating sytem.
We like the idea of a stove with a back boiler to run our rads in the house aswell as hot water,supplimented by Gas when needed.

The thing is,we dont particularly like the look of stoves and prefer an open fire but obviously this isn't the most effeicnet way to use a backboiler.

So were wondering if we can have a stove flue installed in the chimney.
So basically we will have an open fire with a metal flue.
we then would want a door on the opening so we could seal the opening to the fire in order to stop a draught going up the chimney and hopefully make the burning more efficent.
The door would be removeable so if we wanted we could have the open fire if we wanted.

Basically its an insert stove but any of the current insert stoves restrict the openings to a small opening.

Would something like this be possible or even anymore efficent than an open fire?

What you are really describing is an open fire with doors. They have them in america and are available in the EU. An open fire with glass doors that can be opened.
http://www.fentonfires.ie/product.php/Jotul-model-18/25/

http://www.energyfires.co.uk/

If you wanted this with a back boiler you would either be limited to an 18 inch wide opening, to buy a standard width open fire boiler or have a custom made boiler to the width you wanted. If a back boiler is important you can't beat a stove with inbuilt boiler.


I don't think it would be very efficient as the doors would trap in heat and send it up the chimney and when open no great control on the burn rate.

What I would do myself though is buy a good quality stove:D. Clearview/woodwarm where the glass stays clean for maximum view. Some stoves you can have the doors open, although seriously reduces efficiency.

Stove Fan:)

Appreciate the reply.I'm aware that when open it'll be in essence an open fire and suffer the problems an open fire has however its more the efficency when the door is closed that I'm curious about.

I'm not opposed to having a stove custom made as long as we have an option of an open fire.
I know just buying a stove would be the solution but I don't find the look appealing but aesthetics may be sacrificed at a later date an we may just buy a stove:)
I know alot of heat would just be lost up the chimney but is this not a problem all stoves have?

Stove Fan

seannash wrote: »

Appreciate the reply.I'm aware that when open it'll be in essence an open fire and suffer the problems an open fire has however its more the efficency when the door is closed that I'm curious about.

I'm not opposed to having a stove custom made as long as we have an option of an open fire.
I know just buying a stove would be the solution but I don't find the look appealing but aesthetics may be sacrificed at a later date an we may just buy a stove:)
I know alot of heat would just be lost up the chimney but is this not a problem all stoves have?

Stoves are a lot more efficient because a freestanding stove has 6 faces radiating/convecting heat. Open fire just one. With a stove the air supply is regulated and so the less air being drawn up the chimney the less heat dragged with it.
A stove also has a baffle or baffles above the fire that distributes the heat/smoke around the top of the stove for maximum heat transfer. On a good quality stove you get very good secondary combustion which ignites the gases in the fuel for greater efficiency.

If you really want an open fire I would have a stove with boiler in main use and open fire in another if you really want one. Make sure it's closed up when not in use otherwise the chimney is extracting the heat out of your house:eek:

I like an open fire but there is no contest between fuel used on an open fire and stove. The stove wins hands down on fuel efficiency = more money saved. If I was choosing between the two it would be a stove:D

Stove Fan:)

gcsherwood

Stovefan, thanks a lot for your reply. With regards to rads, I have:
2 2ft (bathroom)
3 3ft
4 4ft
2 5ft

This is with the kitchen radiator removed (it is sitting right in front of the proposed opening, so it has to be removed or we do hurdles to go to the dining room!

I'm not sure what you mean by style. Maybe I'm missing the finer points, but the stoves pretty much look like stoves to me. I suspect I need a back flue because that is how the existing Stanley range vents, but I have not the slightest idea what is involved. I think I'd prefer that, anyway, because my wife would like to put shelves over the stove (not really close, obviously!).

I see what you mean about the enamel, but if that is at all possible that is what my wife wants. Sometimes you go with the flow....

I've seen that some units have a thermostat to automatically throttle down the air once the desired water temp is reached. This sounds like a good thing. Is it, or is it more of a gimmick?

On thing I really want is a way to throttle the air way down so that I can keep a low coal fire going for a long period (like overnight). I can't do this on the existing Stanley. Even with everything closed up tight it still eats coal like there is no tomorrow. I'd like to be able to put in a load of coal, throttle it down so we get some heat overnight, but be able to open the vent in morning and have the fire burn back up again without having to set a new fire.

Oh, and I will be talking with an installer about all of this, but I figure the more I know going into said conversation the better off I'll be. Thanks much!

Geoff

Stove Fan

gcsherwood wrote: »

Stovefan, thanks a lot for your reply. With regards to rads, I have:
2 2ft (bathroom)
3 3ft
4 4ft
2 5ft

This is with the kitchen radiator removed (it is sitting right in front of the proposed opening, so it has to be removed or we do hurdles to go to the dining room!

I'm not sure what you mean by style. Maybe I'm missing the finer points, but the stoves pretty much look like stoves to me. I suspect I need a back flue because that is how the existing Stanley range vents, but I have not the slightest idea what is involved. I think I'd prefer that, anyway, because my wife would like to put shelves over the stove (not really close, obviously!).

I see what you mean about the enamel, but if that is at all possible that is what my wife wants. Sometimes you go with the flow....

I've seen that some units have a thermostat to automatically throttle down the air once the desired water temp is reached. This sounds like a good thing. Is it, or is it more of a gimmick?

On thing I really want is a way to throttle the air way down so that I can keep a low coal fire going for a long period (like overnight). I can't do this on the existing Stanley. Even with everything closed up tight it still eats coal like there is no tomorrow. I'd like to be able to put in a load of coal, throttle it down so we get some heat overnight, but be able to open the vent in morning and have the fire burn back up again without having to set a new fire.

Oh, and I will be talking with an installer about all of this, but I figure the more I know going into said conversation the better off I'll be. Thanks much!

Geoff

Hi:) Are these rads all singles or doubles and what height?
A link to a cross section of a single rad, double rad single convector and double rad if unsure.

http://www.traderadiators.com/acatalog/Compact-500.html

Stove Fan:)

gcsherwood

All of the radiators are 21" high. Most of them are single width (look like a stamped piece of metal on each side). One 4' radiator (44", actually) and two 3' radiators are double width and look like there are two sets of corregated metal (think two pieces of cardboard viewed on edge, but without the facing paper between them) inside. The original house has the stamped singles, the extension built in 2003 has these other radiators.

Hope that made sense....

thanks!

Geoff

Stove Fan

gcsherwood wrote: »

All of the radiators are 21" high. Most of them are single width (look like a stamped piece of metal on each side). One 4' radiator (44", actually) and two 3' radiators are double width and look like there are two sets of corregated metal (think two pieces of cardboard viewed on edge, but without the facing paper between them) inside. The original house has the stamped singles, the extension built in 2003 has these other radiators.

Hope that made sense....

thanks!

Geoff

Hi your looking for a stove with a rated 17kw back boiler to heat the rads and hot water. For your room sizes if fully opened up your looking for a stove with a room output of around 7kw.

The stanley erin and stanleys are undersized by a few kw:( Inis mean may be an option but confirm the outputs with them.
http://www.inisstoves.ie/index.php/stoves/boiler-stoves Not sure if they do an enamel finish.

or
http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb16-he.html Only black painted finish.

Thermostatic control is a great plus. A good idea.

Stove Fan:)

seannash

Stove Fan wrote: »

A stove also has a baffle or baffles above the fire that distributes the heat/smoke around the top of the stove for maximum heat transfer. On a good quality stove you get very good secondary combustion which ignites the gases in the fuel for greater efficiency.

If you really want an open fire I would have a stove with boiler in main use and open fire in another if you really want one. Make sure it's closed up when not in use otherwise the chimney is extracting the heat out of your house:eek:



Stove Fan:)

Unfortunately we only have one area for our living room(yet 4 fireplaces in total)I definetly get that its not gonna be the most efficent way but if the door is closed initially just to get the water in the backboiler hot,which in turn could heat the rads in the house could we then have the open fire once the backboiler has reached a temperature to heat the rads(if that makes sense)

I understand I'll be drawing that hot air back up the chimney once the fire is open but surely we can just replace that lost heat with the hot water from the backboiler into the rads(again I know this will be lost)

I know I'm really going the wrong way about this but I simply want the option of an open fore and no stove Ive seen gives me the same feel unfortunately

freddyuk

seannash wrote: »

Appreciate the reply.I'm aware that when open it'll be in essence an open fire and suffer the problems an open fire has however its more the efficency when the door is closed that I'm curious about.

I'm not opposed to having a stove custom made as long as we have an option of an open fire.
I know just buying a stove would be the solution but I don't find the look appealing but aesthetics may be sacrificed at a later date an we may just buy a stove:)
I know alot of heat would just be lost up the chimney but is this not a problem all stoves have?

We did this:

Small 5kw Clearview in centre room below 200 litre cylinder which heated by gravity in one evening easily to 60c. That is your hot water for free if the stove is on. Clearview is infinitely controllable and will stay in all night no problem and can be kept ticking over all day to keep centre of house warm which imparts heat to other rooms around as the central chimmney stack heats up. 3-4 briquettes will last a very long time in this mode but you must give it a blast every now and then to to prevent any tar build up.
Any excess heat can be pumped to a radiator or two if required.

http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o517/freddyuk1/16022012138.jpg

Then a Franklin stove in the lounge for the open fire effect. I have sealed all the joints and now sealing the doors to make it as airtight as possible. I doubt it would work with back boiler so it is the optional open fire which can be controlled and closed off to prevent heat loss even when it is not lit.
http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o517/freddyuk1/Woodburner.jpg
http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o517/freddyuk1/Woodburner1.jpg

seannash

freddyuk wrote: »

We did this:

Small 5kw Clearview in centre room below 200 litre cylinder which heated by gravity in one evening easily to 60c. That is your hot water for free if the stove is on. Clearview is infinitely controllable and will stay in all night no problem and can be kept ticking over all day to keep centre of house warm which imparts heat to other rooms around as the central chimmney stack heats up. 3-4 briquettes will last a very long time in this mode but you must give it a blast every now and then to to prevent any tar build up.
Any excess heat can be pumped to a radiator or two if required.

http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o517/freddyuk1/16022012138.jpg

Then a Franklin stove in the lounge for the open fire effect. I have sealed all the joints and now sealing the doors to make it as airtight as possible. I doubt it would work with back boiler so it is the optional open fire which can be controlled and closed off to prevent heat loss even when it is not lit.
http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o517/freddyuk1/Woodburner.jpg
http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o517/freddyuk1/Woodburner1.jpg

I hope this doesn't sound too mean but thats the look I'm trying to avoid.
I understand the practicality of what youv'e done but I just think putting a stove in this house will ruin the feel of the house.
were doing it up in a very much georgian style and I dont think a stove lends itself too well to the look of the place.I guess I'm looking to have my cake and eat it too.might just have to go with the ope fire with a backboiler and leave it at that

Stove Fan

seannash wrote: »

I hope this doesn't sound too mean but thats the look I'm trying to avoid.
I understand the practicality of what youv'e done but I just think putting a stove in this house will ruin the feel of the house.
were doing it up in a very much georgian style and I dont think a stove lends itself too well to the look of the place.I guess I'm looking to have my cake and eat it too.might just have to go with the ope fire with a backboiler and leave it at that

One of the Irish manufacturs a door to fit over a standard width open fire backboiler. A mulberry fire front only. It's a frame with door that fixes over your existing fire front.
http://www.mulberrystoves.com/news.html
Or
http://borustoves.ie/the-doras-firefront/

I personally think a stove would complement the georgian house. Old and new and all that. At the end of the day though you have to go with what you like:D

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

freddyuk wrote: »

We did this:

Small 5kw Clearview in centre room below 200 litre cylinder which heated by gravity in one evening easily to 60c. That is your hot water for free if the stove is on. Clearview is infinitely controllable and will stay in all night no problem and can be kept ticking over all day to keep centre of house warm which imparts heat to other rooms around as the central chimmney stack heats up. 3-4 briquettes will last a very long time in this mode but you must give it a blast every now and then to to prevent any tar build up.
Any excess heat can be pumped to a radiator or two if required.

http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o517/freddyuk1/16022012138.jpg

Then a Franklin stove in the lounge for the open fire effect. I have sealed all the joints and now sealing the doors to make it as airtight as possible. I doubt it would work with back boiler so it is the optional open fire which can be controlled and closed off to prevent heat loss even when it is not lit.
http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o517/freddyuk1/Woodburner.jpg
http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o517/freddyuk1/Woodburner1.jpg

Nice clearview:D But if the white painted skirting board is wood on both of them then please remove it as it's far too near the stove and combustible:( Any wood should be at least 600mm away, see stove instructions for precise details. The stoves hearth that it sits on should extend 300mm infront of the stove on the clearview. Ideally the stove should come further forwards 50% as its rather tight in the opening. It should ideally have 6 inches either side.

Stove Fan:)

freddyuk

You are of course technically correct in all instances as regards the installation instructions. The stove has been fully stress tested in all possible situations and is not left unattended.
I accept full responsibility.

baby fish

another question for stove fan or anyone who can help!!

stove: charnwood cove 2 , 8kw

6 inch pipe from stove, 8 inch clay flue liner , distance from top of stove to bottom of clay liner is about 1.6m

Whats the best way to connect these?
As I see it I have two options:

option 1
run the 1.6m of 6 inch matt black stove pipe and connect to flue using an 8 to 6 inch clay pipe reducer.
But this will go over the recomended 1m to max 1.5m of stove pipe?? Would this be ok?
told in shop this is ok, this has often been done, just keep the chimney swept.
How good is the 8-6 inch reducer, there are a lot of joints in it, will it last or fail overtime?


option 2

use 8inch twin wall from stove to clay liner, no longer the problem of going over the recomended 1.5m.of stove pipe
But the only way I can connect the twin wall to the clay liner is to push the twin wall into the clay liner, its a snug fit, the outside diameter of the twin wall matches the internal diameter of the clay liner, but this creates a little ledge in the overall flue ( the surface on top of the twin wall). Man in shop said its ok like that, suggested that if I wanted I could use fire cement to make a slope back into the flue.

Which way is best?

Stove Fan

baby fish wrote: »

another question for stove fan or anyone who can help!!

stove: charnwood cove 2 , 8kw

6 inch pipe from stove, 8 inch clay flue liner , distance from top of stove to bottom of clay liner is about 1.6m

Whats the best way to connect these?
As I see it I have two options:

option 1
run the 1.6m of 6 inch matt black stove pipe and connect to flue using an 8 to 6 inch clay pipe reducer.
But this will go over the recomended 1m to max 1.5m of stove pipe?? Would this be ok?
told in shop this is ok, this has often been done, just keep the chimney swept.
How good is the 8-6 inch reducer, there are a lot of joints in it, will it last or fail overtime?


option 2

use 8inch twin wall from stove to clay liner, no longer the problem of going over the recomended 1.5m.of stove pipe
But the only way I can connect the twin wall to the clay liner is to push the twin wall into the clay liner, its a snug fit, the outside diameter of the twin wall matches the internal diameter of the clay liner, but this creates a little ledge in the overall flue ( the surface on top of the twin wall). Man in shop said its ok like that, suggested that if I wanted I could use fire cement to make a slope back into the flue.

Which way is best?

Hi, use option one:). A length of black single walled flue from top of stove to the 8 inch clay reducer. Your fine at 1.6m

This will work fine providing the clay adapter can form a good seal around the base of the clay liners. Most of the clay adapters here don't have a shoulder/lip to divert condensate/tar from the clay liner. The ordinary adapters just fit inside and can leak tar/condensate.
An example of the type with shoulder/lip. This is important as it diverts the tar/creasote inwards. The straps are to fix it in place. Use fire cement too.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Internal-Clay-Concrete-Pumice-Liner-Adaptor-6-8-/270730621245?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D270782663640%26ps%3D54


Scroll down to view picture.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Single-skin-flue.html

You may be able to buy here, shop around:cool:

If a self install confirm chimney is swept and in a sound and smoke tight condition. Dont forget the extra air vent needed. Great stove by the way:D

Stove Fan:)

gcsherwood

Thanks for the info, Stove Fan. My wife really likes the look of the Henley Blasket. 6kw room, 15 kw boiler -- a bit smaller than your calculations, but we do expect to have a pretty well insulated house. Right now it isn't, but we plan to pump the cavities with foam and dry line the exterior walls. And put insulation in the attic -- there is almost none there now! It is a nice looking stove, comes in brown enamel (wife loves) and is thermostatically controlled. Available for 1350 - 1400 euro, delivered in Ireland.

Sounds too good to be true. Henley's been around since 1985 so they aren't fly-by-night, but I've seen very little info about them on the net. I'm sure its China cast iron but it does come with a five-year warranty. What gotcha's should I be looking for?

thanks for your help!

Geoff

baby fish

Thanks stove fan

another question,

looks like a good design but have you seen these reducers, just wondering how the tar and creosote gets back inside the flue? Can see the funnel will catch the stuff but for it to get back inside there must be a hole? if there is a hole will the smoke come out??

Chimney is new, in good condition and only used a few times, reason: if stove is lit for over an hour then it sets off the smoke alarm, I already came to the conclusion it might be the need for an external vent and was also thinking it could be the pipe set up at the moment. (currently about a meter of single wall and ontop of this half a meter of twin wall pushed into the clay pot, all sealed with fire cement). I have bought the external air vent pipe bits and will put that on when fixing the flue pipe. Have carbon monoxide alarm too, that doesnt go off!!

By the way when making a good joint with the fire cement is it a good idea to cover both surface with the cement or just one?

Stove Fan

baby fish wrote: »

Thanks stove fan

another question,

looks like a good design but have you seen these reducers, just wondering how the tar and creosote gets back inside the flue? Can see the funnel will catch the stuff but for it to get back inside there must be a hole? if there is a hole will the smoke come out??

Chimney is new, in good condition and only used a few times, reason: if stove is lit for over an hour then it sets off the smoke alarm, I already came to the conclusion it might be the need for an external vent and was also thinking it could be the pipe set up at the moment. (currently about a meter of single wall and ontop of this half a meter of twin wall pushed into the clay pot, all sealed with fire cement). I have bought the external air vent pipe bits and will put that on when fixing the flue pipe. Have carbon monoxide alarm too, that doesnt go off!!

By the way when making a good joint with the fire cement is it a good idea to cover both surface with the cement or just one?

Hi, I have never seen the reducers but they must have a small hole to prevent overflowing. I would apply the outer edge of the adapter with fire cement and push it into place, fix and then remove excess fire cement that has squeezed out. The hole wont let smoke out as its between the inner lip and flue.

An air supply is vital for correct combustion. Before re-installing the stove thoroughly sweep the chimney:) If the smoke continues have it checked out:eek:. You shouldn't smell smoke. You can get smoke smell/haze when stove is new/first used while the paint cures.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

gcsherwood wrote: »

Thanks for the info, Stove Fan. My wife really likes the look of the Henley Blasket. 6kw room, 15 kw boiler -- a bit smaller than your calculations, but we do expect to have a pretty well insulated house. Right now it isn't, but we plan to pump the cavities with foam and dry line the exterior walls. And put insulation in the attic -- there is almost none there now! It is a nice looking stove, comes in brown enamel (wife loves) and is thermostatically controlled. Available for 1350 - 1400 euro, delivered in Ireland.

Sounds too good to be true. Henley's been around since 1985 so they aren't fly-by-night, but I've seen very little info about them on the net. I'm sure its China cast iron but it does come with a five-year warranty. What gotcha's should I be looking for?

thanks for your help!

Geoff

You can't beat insulation our 50's detatched went from a G rating to a D2 after spending on insulation etc:D.
I'm afraid I'm not familiar with Henley stoves but as you say they can't be too bad if still in buisiness:) You will probably find the 5 year quarantee is only for certain things when you read the quarantee litreture online and less time for others (certainly is with stanley). I would certainly email them to ask how long the warranty is on the boiler itself and details of whats covered and whats not and how long:). I'm sure it may well be cast in China? You could ask.

The Henley looks very similar to the Blacksmith Forge, but the forge is less boiler output.

Stove Fan:)

gcsherwood

Stove Fan,
I stopped into a local shop in Donegal Town that Henley listed as a stockist. They had the Henley Skellig model in brown enamel. Absolutely gorgeous. I know that beauty doesn't translate into performance, but it doesn't hurt! I said I figured the Henley was likely cast in China -- and the shop concurred. They were recommending Forge, interestingly enough (considering you mentioned it) but it doesn't have near the same kw to water (if the figures are accurate). They said Henley was a good solid brand, but that the grates would burn out more quickly because the Forge used high chromium iron. I asked what a new grate ran, and they said 40 euro -- for the 300 euro difference I can buy a lot of grates -- and I figure the high chromium grates won't last forever, either. And the Forge only comes in black enamel, not brown :-). WAF is important!

They had a Blasket in matte black (and the difference between that and the Skellig enamel was dramatic in appearance). The one thing I found off-putting was that they had a dial for the thermostat at the right rear leg, and what appeared to be a thick copper wire (or a really skinny -- 1mm -- tube) kind of looped around in space until it disappeared into the back of the stove. I guess that is the for the sensor and as it heats up it must close the damper somehow. Just seems spindly (for the lack of a better word) somehow.

I'm from the US and usually you get much better deals online. The price I saw online was between 1350 and 1400 euro as I mentioned above. Local (well, 50 min drive) shop?? 1250, delivered, in brown enamel. Works for me, and I'm happy to support local business. The Blacksmith Forge was 1550 euro in black enamel by comparison.

I like the look. I like the price. I want to pull the trigger, but I'm afraid my ignorance is going to bite me....

Oh well, it's not like I'm betting the mortgage!

thanks for your insight!

Geoff

seannash

Think I May have found what I was looking for

http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/gallery/Aquatherm-Eco-F34-V-Wood-Boiler-Stove-traditional-setting.html

Stove Fan

gcsherwood wrote: »

Stove Fan,
I stopped into a local shop in Donegal Town that Henley listed as a stockist. They had the Henley Skellig model in brown enamel. Absolutely gorgeous. I know that beauty doesn't translate into performance, but it doesn't hurt! I said I figured the Henley was likely cast in China -- and the shop concurred. They were recommending Forge, interestingly enough (considering you mentioned it) but it doesn't have near the same kw to water (if the figures are accurate). They said Henley was a good solid brand, but that the grates would burn out more quickly because the Forge used high chromium iron. I asked what a new grate ran, and they said 40 euro -- for the 300 euro difference I can buy a lot of grates -- and I figure the high chromium grates won't last forever, either. And the Forge only comes in black enamel, not brown :-). WAF is important!

They had a Blasket in matte black (and the difference between that and the Skellig enamel was dramatic in appearance). The one thing I found off-putting was that they had a dial for the thermostat at the right rear leg, and what appeared to be a thick copper wire (or a really skinny -- 1mm -- tube) kind of looped around in space until it disappeared into the back of the stove. I guess that is the for the sensor and as it heats up it must close the damper somehow. Just seems spindly (for the lack of a better word) somehow.

I'm from the US and usually you get much better deals online. The price I saw online was between 1350 and 1400 euro as I mentioned above. Local (well, 50 min drive) shop?? 1250, delivered, in brown enamel. Works for me, and I'm happy to support local business. The Blacksmith Forge was 1550 euro in black enamel by comparison.

I like the look. I like the price. I want to pull the trigger, but I'm afraid my ignorance is going to bite me....

Oh well, it's not like I'm betting the mortgage!

thanks for your insight!

Geoff

Hi, all the boiler stoves that have the boiler thermostat at the rear with the capillary tube (copper tube) in a pocket on the boiler. This is the sensor as you say which closes the bi metal thermostat.
Some stoves like the Arrow EB series have the boiler thermostat dial at the side which is easier/safer to operate.

40 euro isn't expensive for a grate. If you like the stove and price then why not buy:):D

Stove Fan:)