STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

emg74

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi:) As your fireplace is only 750 wide you can only buy a stove that is as narrow as possible, ideally 400 wide because ideally you should have 150mm each side of the stove to allow airflow to let the heat escape in the recess. What is the height of the opening?

I personaly would advice if possible to bring the new stove part forward of the opening to let the heat escape more freely. This would be the best option, as realisticly your not going to find a stove of that width.

If you could measure the rads that you have excluding the rad(s) in the same room as the stove that would be great. Are they single or double rads?
Could you also give me the measurements of the room the stove will be going in? How is the insulation?

With this information I can give you a rough quide to a stove thats suitable.

How do you like the EB range?

http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb9-he.html

Stove Fan:)

Hi Stove Fan,

Finally getting back to you - Apologies for the delay.

As I mentioned earlier, We live in a 4 bed bungalow (125sq Metres in size) - the heating is split into 3 zones, Bedrooms & bathroom, Living Area & the 3rd zone is for hot water only.

We have oil heating for the rads and use the Charnwood Country 6 to provide 100% of hot water. We only use the oil for the bedrooms as the stove provides enough heat for the room it is in and the kitchen area which is next to the livingroom.

We have a pump installed in the hotpress to divert some of the hot water from stove to the bedrooms if there is excessive hotwater.

Everything works fine except that the stove (Charnwood C6) isn't powerful enough to provide heat to the 4 bedrooms & bathroom rads, heat the water and also heat the area it is in.

We have measured the radiators on the bedroom circuit and the sizes are as follows

Bed1 1600 x 500 (single)
Bed2 970 x 500 (Double)
EnSuite 500 x 500 (single)
Bed3 1200 x 500 (single) & Rad in wardrobe 400 x 500 (single)
Bed4 1200 x 500 (single) & Rad in wardrobe 400 x 500 (single)
Bathroom 900 x 500 (single)
Hall Corridor 1400 x 500 (single)

We got the cavity pumped in 2011 (after the cold winter) & have upgraded the insulation in the attic to 18" deep fibreglass

Also the inside of the exterior walls has 30mm of thermal board (18mm of insulation and 12mm plasterboard - the pink boards)

The stove will be in the livingroom which is 3.6m x 4m. There is a kitchen and utility room adjoining this room and the internal doors are pretty much permanently opened (Kitchen = 4.2 x 3.2, utility = 2.7 x 2.2) Ceiling height is 2.6m

And finally the fireplace opening is 700w x 800h

What we are looking for really is a stove that will give us the domestic hot water, heat the living room / kitchen / utility and also be capable of heating the bedrooms if possible.

As it happens a girl at work has one of the stratford stoves that you recommended and there is a supplier fairly local to us - She has the one that will heat 18rads. She is happy with it esp with the compact size and wraparound boiler.

Sorry for superlong post.. Hope I haven't confused things with all the info.

Eilis

Stove Fan

stoves1 wrote: »

many thanks for reply stove fan, the stove is sluggish to burn, and is fitted in front of fireplace with no access to getting to outside of pipes from flue to stove, i did not get the chimney swept before install (my fault) so this will need doing, this will need to be done from chimney down (two story house chimney on roof) there are two 45degree bends from stove to flue reducer, is it possible to clean chimney myself after taken baffle plate off through 5inch piping.on the chimny pot is a bird type cage but do not have a rain cowl on, how do you think i should proceed from here, if possible 123 etc (builder/installer still has not visited), many thanks

Personally I would get the installer back in to inspect the stove unlit and clean the chimney and reseal the flue outlet and see if it improves the draw. If you had the stove fitted where an open fire was used before a stove will cause the old soot to fall to the base. This is the first thing an installer does, sweep the chimney.

You or the installer may be able to sweep the flue through the stove. It sounds like the installation is joined to the clay lined masonry flue using flue pipe and 45 degree bends the the clay liner adapter?

If this is the case then it should be sweepable without removing the stove.

If the stove is just flued into the void of the fireplace through a metal plate and the stovepipe flue is not joined to the clay liner you will have to remove the stove and metal plate to sweep the flue.

It's very hard to diagnose faults as really you need someone to come out to evaluate the problem.

If your house is a newbuild and very airtight the stove may need a permanent ventilation, (air supply).

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

hairyslug wrote: »

Sure its been asked but im lazy so here goes, how much is it to install a standard stove, non boiler in a new build against an external wall, is there anything i can do to save a bit when the chimney is going up

cheers

Hi,

Is there already a chimney built? Or nothing? If nothing you may be looking at 1,500 for materials plus labour and stove price.
If there is a fireplace and chimney already you could be looking at 1-2 days labour plus materials.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

emg74 wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,

Finally getting back to you - Apologies for the delay.

As I mentioned earlier, We live in a 4 bed bungalow (125sq Metres in size) - the heating is split into 3 zones, Bedrooms & bathroom, Living Area & the 3rd zone is for hot water only.

We have oil heating for the rads and use the Charnwood Country 6 to provide 100% of hot water. We only use the oil for the bedrooms as the stove provides enough heat for the room it is in and the kitchen area which is next to the livingroom.

We have a pump installed in the hotpress to divert some of the hot water from stove to the bedrooms if there is excessive hotwater.

Everything works fine except that the stove (Charnwood C6) isn't powerful enough to provide heat to the 4 bedrooms & bathroom rads, heat the water and also heat the area it is in.

We have measured the radiators on the bedroom circuit and the sizes are as follows

Bed1 1600 x 500 (single)
Bed2 970 x 500 (Double)
EnSuite 500 x 500 (single)
Bed3 1200 x 500 (single) & Rad in wardrobe 400 x 500 (single)
Bed4 1200 x 500 (single) & Rad in wardrobe 400 x 500 (single)
Bathroom 900 x 500 (single)
Hall Corridor 1400 x 500 (single)

We got the cavity pumped in 2011 (after the cold winter) & have upgraded the insulation in the attic to 18" deep fibreglass

Also the inside of the exterior walls has 30mm of thermal board (18mm of insulation and 12mm plasterboard - the pink boards)

The stove will be in the livingroom which is 3.6m x 4m. There is a kitchen and utility room adjoining this room and the internal doors are pretty much permanently opened (Kitchen = 4.2 x 3.2, utility = 2.7 x 2.2) Ceiling height is 2.6m

And finally the fireplace opening is 700w x 800h

What we are looking for really is a stove that will give us the domestic hot water, heat the living room / kitchen / utility and also be capable of heating the bedrooms if possible.

As it happens a girl at work has one of the stratford stoves that you recommended and there is a supplier fairly local to us - She has the one that will heat 18rads. She is happy with it esp with the compact size and wraparound boiler.

Sorry for superlong post.. Hope I haven't confused things with all the info.

Eilis

Hi:),

I have calculated you need an 11kw back boiler stove to heat your 9 radiators and hot water.

I used a rough quide for your 3 room sizes and each required:


Living room = 2.5kw of heat required.

Kitchen = 2.5kw of heat required.

Utility = 1.1kw of heat required.

Total = 6.1kw to heat all 3 rooms.


Personally if you bought a stove with a 6kw output to the room I personally think your living room could become too hot.

It really depends if the living room has 2 doors and you can get the heat from the living room to circulate through the house. If you can it would probably be ok with the arrow inset EB12HE.

I personally would buy an insert stove as your fireplace dimentions are very tight for a freestanding stove. The inset stove has a reduced output to the room too so a big plus 5kw instead of 6kw .

If you do absolutely want a freestanding stove then I would at the very minimum bring the stove mostly forward of the opening or totally forward of the opening:).
If you placed the stove totally inside you would only have 70mm clearance each side instead of the required 150mm. for the height above the stove you would have 197mm and not the minimum required 300mm. This clearance around the stove is so that air gets to the stove to convect heat and stops the stove getting too hot. You would also find the stove at risk of cracking any plaster etc as it would be very close.

I highly suggest you consider an inset stove.

Either this.
http://www.esse.com/multifuel-stoves/350gs/
The esse 350GS has a lower output to the room of 3.6kw so may be the better/safer choice as you can always fit/use the rad in the kitchen or utility if it's too cold and produces 11.1kw to the boiler using wood only.


or this:

12kw to water 5kw to room. It would certainly heat your living room and kitchen especially if you have the doors open and can get a good airflow through the rooms.
http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/inset-stoves/eb12i-he.html

I would ask the opinion of stove suppliers/installers as I don't want you to be sweating with too much heat in the room with the stove:eek:

I prefer the features and styling of the arrow EB series but the esse can have the more traditional black surround and is the safer bet due to lower room heat output.

Hope I haven't confused you more.

Stove Fan:)

emg74

Thanks for getting back - An inset stove is not an option as the fireplace is built of brick - When we built the house, We built the opening to suit the Charnwood Country 6 that we had bought. We do have the option of bringing the stove forward a bit on the hearth as we have a bit of space to do that.

I am attaching some photos of our current set-up so you have a better idea of what we are dealing with.

Would the non-insert version of the stratford stove work for us ?

There are 2 doors in the livingroom alright - one goes to the kitchen/ utility and the other goes down the hallway... The one to the hall spends alot of time open too - the joys of children who have yet to learn how to close doors.:D

Stove Fan

emg74 wrote: »

Thanks for getting back - An inset stove is not an option as the fireplace is built of brick - When we built the house, We built the opening to suit the Charnwood Country 6 that we had bought. We do have the option of bringing the stove forward a bit on the hearth as we have a bit of space to do that.

I am attaching some photos of our current set-up so you have a better idea of what we are dealing with.

Would the non-insert version of the stratford stove work for us ?

There are 2 doors in the livingroom alright - one goes to the kitchen/ utility and the other goes down the hallway... The one to the hall spends alot of time open too - the joys of children who have yet to learn how to close doors.:D

Hi, looking at your pictures a standard stove should be fine so long as you bring the stove as forward as the flue bend will allow.

I have compared the dimentions of the Arrow EB12HE freestanding stove and the charnwood Country 6 and the Aarrow is only 4mm higher and 81mm wider.

The height is great as it virtually matches the charnwoods height.

The extra width should be fine providing you bring the stove forward as much as possible at least 50% forward of the opening. Ideally still using the top flue or use the rear flue option if you have to.

As you have the through flow with the 2 doors open the 6kw of heat should hopefully radiate throughout the house. I think with your current stove with the 2.9kw boiler installed your getting around 3kw to the room. The new stove could be up to twice this. I doubt the stove will produce 6kw as my much larger stove produces less.
http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb12-he.html

Good luck with your decision.

Stove Fan:)

emg74

Hi Stove Man, Thank you so much for your advice. Definitely we will be able to pull the stove out onto the hearth more.

We are hoping to go looking properly in the next few weeks. Need to organise someone to take the kids some Saturday so we can look in peace.

I will ring the supplier that does the stratford stoves and see if they have the Stratford Ecoboiler EB12 HE in stock and get an idea of price. We are hoping to get the work done over the summer.

Thanks again for your help and I will keep you updates as to how things are going

pinocchiodog

Delay posting back knocking out walls with telephone cables in is bad for broadband!! we went for the Stanley Erin after, didn't want a monster stove in sitting room. We have a lot of rads now after ripping the roof off and going higher with 2 more bedrooms and 2 more bathrooms but we figure with zoning and oil back up we will be okay. It can only help can't it :rolleyes:

BlueIsland

new house- bought a dual fuel cooker! how much should the gas installation cost of this? I got a quote of 385 from RGI! I thought it was very high???

Stove Fan

BlueIsland wrote: »

new house- bought a dual fuel cooker! how much should the gas installation cost of this? I got a quote of 385 from RGI! I thought it was very high???

Hi,

May be best to get the mods to move it into the plumbing section rather than stoves questions and answers:)

Or repost it.

I have no idea as to price. Best to describe the work needed and distance to the gas supply.

Stove Fan:)

Eganm

Hi,

I am planning to put in a freestanding woodburning stove in my family room. The stove I like costs about E1500.It will be installed on a granite/slate hearth with heat proof panels behind it and flue off the top of the stove. I have a quote (from a well established company) of E2100 to complete the job(stove is extra). I think this is very pricey. Would anyone be able to tell me if this IS very dear or about right for the type of job involved?

Thanks.
Eganm:)

Stove Fan

Eganm wrote: »

Hi,

I am planning to put in a freestanding woodburning stove in my family room. The stove I like costs about E1500.It will be installed on a granite/slate hearth with heat proof panels behind it and flue off the top of the stove. I have a quote (from a well established company) of E2100 to complete the job(stove is extra). I think this is very pricey. Would anyone be able to tell me if this IS very dear or about right for the type of job involved?

Thanks.
Eganm:)

Hi, Could you say what work is being done to the chimney? Is a new chimney being built using insulated twinwall flue or relining an existing chimney? Is this a bungalow or 2 story house where flue is?


Stove Fan:)

foxshooter243

@Stove fan...im thinking of taking out my sitting room back boiler and replacing with a multi fuel stove with boiler to run my central heating and supply domestic water, my system has the following radiators -

1x5 foot 4 inch double { sitting room}
1x 6 foot 6inch single
6 x 4 foot 4inch singles
1x 2 foot 8 inch single
1x 3 foot 6 inch single
1x 6 foot 6 inch double

My sitting room is 17 ft x 13 ft, I was tempted to buy the stratford EB12, but am holding off whilst waiting on your advice, what would you reccomend to fit and furthermore which charnwood model if any?

Thanking you in advance for your help, your input in this thread is outstanding:)

Eganm

Thanks Stove Fan,

We have no fireplace so new chimney using insulated twin wall flue being built internally from top of stove and out through wall near ceiling at 45 degrees. This room is single storey-91/2feet high and chimney will be 25 feet or more from back wall of 2 storey part of the house.

Eganm

Stove Fan

Eganm wrote: »

Thanks Stove Fan,

We have no fireplace so new chimney using insulated twin wall flue being built internally from top of stove and out through wall near ceiling at 45 degrees. This room is single storey-91/2feet high and chimney will be 25 feet or more from back wall of 2 storey part of the house.

Eganm

As the flue is only needed to vent above a single story building then I do think it's a bit on the high side but not a rip off. I priced the flue and online prices were 1,000euro for just the twinwall fluepipe and all fluepipe fittings. Then labour, I would guess minimum 2 days labour 400? Granite hearth 300? Fireboard 100.

=1,800

You could ask for a breakdown of costs, and see which parts are the most expensive and see if you could cut back on anything.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

foxshooter243 wrote: »

@Stove fan...im thinking of taking out my sitting room back boiler and replacing with a multi fuel stove with boiler to run my central heating and supply domestic water, my system has the following radiators -

1x5 foot 4 inch double { sitting room}
1x 6 foot 6inch single
6 x 4 foot 4inch singles
1x 2 foot 8 inch single
1x 3 foot 6 inch single
1x 6 foot 6 inch double

My sitting room is 17 ft x 13 ft, I was tempted to buy the stratford EB12, but am holding off whilst waiting on your advice, what would you reccomend to fit and furthermore which charnwood model if any?

Thanking you in advance for your help, your input in this thread is outstanding:)

Hi Thanks:D If I have this right you have 11 radiators? If this is the case I have calculated you need a 18kw output back boiler on the stove and 4kw output to the room:eek: to heat all 10 rads and hot water. You would turn the living room rad off anyway.

Your room requires around 4kw to heat it.

There is no boiler stove to my knowledge other than the arrow stratford TF90 that could heat all that and give a low heat output to the room. I don't rate it though.http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/other-information/stratford-tf-and-ti-models.html

The larger Arrow EB18 series produce too much heat to the living room and the charnwood boilers are too small to heat all the rads.

Do you need to heat all 11 radiators? If you could halve it the aarrow EB12 inset version may be a canditate. Inset as less heat 5kw to room and 12kw to water. The living room rad would be turned off while using the fire.
Or the charnwood LA50IB as it produces 12kw to water and 3.7kw to room.
http://www.charnwood.com/range/stove/la.aspx
Or the Esse 350GS. http://www.esse.com/multifuel-stoves/350gs/

Stove Fan:)

Smidge

I posted this as a seperate thread but got no reply so hoping someone can help. We had an olymberyl 21kw fitted a few weeks ago and are having trouble. had the plumber who instaled it back twice already because rads not heating etc. the problem is that it should be giving off 8kw to the room and there is no way that it is doing that. Room is only warm at best an because this is May it would be useless come winter(we got more heat from the open fire).
We are feeding it well(a bit too well in my opinion from what I have seen with other people's stoves)with coal, wood etc.
Dont really want to have to ring this plumber again without having some advice and to sound like I know what I'm talking about;)
Thanks in advance for any advice

Stove Fan

mishkalucy wrote: »

I posted this as a seperate thread but got no reply so hoping someone can help. We had an olymberyl 21kw fitted a few weeks ago and are having trouble. had the plumber who instaled it back twice already because rads not heating etc. the problem is that it should be giving off 8kw to the room and there is no way that it is doing that. Room is only warm at best an because this is May it would be useless come winter(we got more heat from the open fire).
We are feeding it well(a bit too well in my opinion from what I have seen with other people's stoves)with coal, wood etc.
Dont really want to have to ring this plumber again without having some advice and to sound like I know what I'm talking about;)
Thanks in advance for any advice

Hi, what model stove is it?

How many radiators are you trying to heat?
What are the sizes of the rads? Which are doubles and which are singles?
Do the rads get hotter if you turn half off?
Does the hot water actually get hot from just the fire?
Is there a pipe stat fitted which controls the pump?
What fuel are you using. If logs are they well seasoned for minimum 1 year+?
Is the stove burning well or sluggish to get going when lighting?

All these questions will help to work out where the problem lies:)

Stove Fan:)

Smidge

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi, what model stove is it?

How many radiators are you trying to heat?
What are the sizes of the rads? Which are doubles and which are singles?
Do the rads get hotter if you turn half off?
Does the hot water actually get hot from just the fire?
Is there a pipe stat fitted which controls the pump?
What fuel are you using. If logs are they well seasoned for minimum 1 year+?
Is the stove burning well or sluggish to get going when lighting?

All these questions will help to work out where the problem lies:)

Stove Fan:)

Hi stove fan, thanks a mill for getting back to me.
The unit itself is an Olymberyl Aiden 21kw
We are burning both seasoned wood and coal(ecobrite).
Rad sizes are:
Room 1; kitchen double rad 1600 x 500 "on"
Room 2; hall double rad 1600 x 500 "on"
Room 3; sideroom single 1600 x 500 "on"
Room 4; ds loo 600 x 500 "half on"
Room 5; Bed 1 double 900 x 500 "on"
Room 6; Bed 2 single 1300 x 500 "on"
Room 7; Bed 3 single 1200 x 500 "on"
Room 8; Bed 4 double 900 x 500 "half on"
Room 9; ensuite single 500 x 500 "half on"
Room 10; ensuite single 500 x500 "half on"
Landing; double 1200 x 500 "on"
Bathroom; single 100 x 500 "half on"
We have the rest of the rads in the house turned off(2 in sit rm, utility, kitchen etc). This was on recommendation of plumber but has not helped.

The rads that are turned "on" are barely lukewarm and the stove has been lighting for several hours now with plenty of fuel.

There is a pipe stat fitted and it is now set to 30. It was at 50 but rads were not getting hot so plumber turned it down to 30(didn't solve problem).

Have just ran the hot water and it is hand hot(meaning you can put your hand comfortably under it)so no where near piping hot water.

Stove seems to be lighting ok and the stove unit itself is hot to the touch. there is no way that 8kw is coming to the room and we have plenty of fire on.

thanks for the help

Eganm

Hi Stove fan,

Thanks for your reply and breakdown of probable cost of woodburner installation. I appreciate the effort you made to get prices etc and will follow up on your advice to get breakdown on different parts needed.

Thanks again,
Eganm

Stove Fan

mishkalucy wrote: »

Hi stove fan, thanks a mill for getting back to me.
The unit itself is an Olymberyl Aiden 21kw
We are burning both seasoned wood and coal(ecobrite).
Rad sizes are:
Room 1; kitchen double rad 1600 x 500 "on"
Room 2; hall double rad 1600 x 500 "on"
Room 3; sideroom single 1600 x 500 "on"
Room 4; ds loo 600 x 500 "half on"
Room 5; Bed 1 double 900 x 500 "on"
Room 6; Bed 2 single 1300 x 500 "on"
Room 7; Bed 3 single 1200 x 500 "on"
Room 8; Bed 4 double 900 x 500 "half on"
Room 9; ensuite single 500 x 500 "half on"
Room 10; ensuite single 500 x500 "half on"
Landing; double 1200 x 500 "on"
Bathroom; single 100 x 500 "half on"
We have the rest of the rads in the house turned off(2 in sit rm, utility, kitchen etc). This was on recommendation of plumber but has not helped.

The rads that are turned "on" are barely lukewarm and the stove has been lighting for several hours now with plenty of fuel.

There is a pipe stat fitted and it is now set to 30. It was at 50 but rads were not getting hot so plumber turned it down to 30(didn't solve problem).

Have just ran the hot water and it is hand hot(meaning you can put your hand comfortably under it)so no where near piping hot water.

Stove seems to be lighting ok and the stove unit itself is hot to the touch. there is no way that 8kw is coming to the room and we have plenty of fire on.

thanks for the help

Hi. I have calculated the output of all your radiators and hot water requirements and it requires a 17.5kw boiler.

The manufacturers of the Aidan quote it as 50,000btu to water or 15kw.

A uk stove outlet quotes it as 12.5kw output:(.
http://www.ukstoves.co.uk/product/18kW_Aidan_Multi_Fuel_Boiler_Stove

I think the problem here could well be the fuel and being slightly undersized. I have tried ecobright myself and wasn't impressed by the heat output or how long it burnt for. I found suttons premium polish coal way better. More heat to the rads and lasted exactly the same 1 hour. I use this and wood and the heat is great.

Dont forget ideally you probably needed a 23kw boiler stove if using mostly ecobright smokeless with a bit of wood. I have been very unimpressed by the heat output of all the smokeless fuels I have tried here. Dont burn that long and not great to look at and take ages at least 2 hours to get the rads half as hot as the suttons polish coal.

See if you are ok to burn coal in the stoves instructions. I tried to look on their website but it wasn't very informative.

I see the stove has a built in thermostat at the rear with a numbered dial, make sure this is on the max setting. The fire should burn lively especially with wood or ordinary coal.

The thermostat that the plumber turned down to 30 should be set at 40 as anything lower would result in condensation on the boiler. This setting and thermostat is required for the quarantee.

I would try another fuel and possibly turning off more rads possibly another 3 and see how it goes. You can then turn other on if the heat improves:)
Good luck with it, hope you find a solution.

Stove Fan:)

Smidge

thanks for getting back to me

http://www.olymberyl.com/newshow.asp?Cid=19&Pid=38

Here is the olymberyl site that we had gotten the info from and it says the Aidan
gives 6kw to room and 15kw to water(my mistake saying 8kw to room) but even at that we are defo not getting 6kw to room.
We had done as much homework as we could before we bought the stove and had been to a friends house where they have a Mulberry 21kw and their house is bigger than ours and they had most rads on(more than what we even have at the moment). It was toasty! We had to practically strip of in the sitting room.
Could it be the stove itself? How would we know that though?
Helllppp

Stove Fan

mishkalucy wrote: »

thanks for getting back to me

http://www.olymberyl.com/newshow.asp?Cid=19&Pid=38

Here is the olymberyl site that we had gotten the info from and it says the Aidan
gives 6kw to room and 15kw to water(my mistake saying 8kw to room) but even at that we are defo not getting 6kw to room.
We had done as much homework as we could before we bought the stove and had been to a friends house where they have a Mulberry 21kw and their house is bigger than ours and they had most rads on(more than what we even have at the moment). It was toasty! We had to practically strip of in the sitting room.
Could it be the stove itself? How would we know that though?
Helllppp

It's rather unlikely to be the stove after all it's a box within a box on three sides and top that contain water.
You could see what the manufacturers say by calling them.

The only difference is that it may be just the manufacturer claiming what boiler heat output it is rather than an independant tester like HETAS where the heat outputs are tested and verified.

I myslef feel it's mostly the ecobright and partially undersized for the load. On the uk site it says 8-10 rads. You have 12.

Stove Fan:)

Smidge

I was talking to the plumber on the phone this morning and he reckons it may be that the heat is going up the chimney???? something to do with some sort of "plate" that may not be closing??
TBH we burned some amount of fuel last few days including wood and some regular coal in addition to the ecobrite. I think what is tricky about this is that the room the stove is in is not getting all that warm.

Stove Fan

mishkalucy wrote: »

I was talking to the plumber on the phone this morning and he reckons it may be that the heat is going up the chimney???? something to do with some sort of "plate" that may not be closing??
TBH we burned some amount of fuel last few days including wood and some regular coal in addition to the ecobrite. I think what is tricky about this is that the room the stove is in is not getting all that warm.

I have no idea on the plate except a baffle plate? This should be installed how the manufacturer shows if this stove has one. Usually the top of the boiler is the baffle but can depend on the boiler design. The plumber could be thinking of a flue damper except you fit this seperately and use it to control the flue draught to slumber the fire or to reduce the draw on the chimney. A draught stabiliser is more suited to a chimney with a high draw though.

Does burning just coal get the rads hotter? Have you turned a few more off?

With regards to the warmth it depends on the room size and insulation levels. What is your room size? Have you checked the thermostat on rear?

If your room is large it may need a radiator?

Stove Fan:)

Smidge

That's the one! Baffle plate!
The plumber said it may not be closing?
Haven't a clue myself(hence getting a plumber lol)
We have four rads turned off at the minute but the rest are not even getting to lukewarm and the water isn't all that hot either.
Before we got the stove in we just had an open fire in the room which we lit at night and we were getting more heat to the room with less fuel than we are getting from the stove to room so could rule out the size/insulation of room.
I think the thermostat is set to the max at the minute as well.

Stove Fan

mishkalucy wrote: »

That's the one! Baffle plate!
The plumber said it may not be closing?
Haven't a clue myself(hence getting a plumber lol)
We have four rads turned off at the minute but the rest are not even getting to lukewarm and the water isn't all that hot either.
Before we got the stove in we just had an open fire in the room which we lit at night and we were getting more heat to the room with less fuel than we are getting from the stove to room so could rule out the size/insulation of room.
I think the thermostat is set to the max at the minute as well.

Hi a baffle plate doesn't close. It is either installed or not.

It sounds a right puzzler as you should be far warmer than an open fire and use roughly the same fuel or less with a boiler stove and it should perform better than it is.

I can't suggest anything else I'm afraid:(


Stove Fan:)

nacimroc

mishkalucy wrote: »

That's the one! Baffle plate!
The plumber said it may not be closing?
Haven't a clue myself(hence getting a plumber lol)
We have four rads turned off at the minute but the rest are not even getting to lukewarm and the water isn't all that hot either.
Before we got the stove in we just had an open fire in the room which we lit at night and we were getting more heat to the room with less fuel than we are getting from the stove to room so could rule out the size/insulation of room.
I think the thermostat is set to the max at the minute as well.

We were in the same boat but it turned out the pumped was only set to 1 (lowest), should have been up at 2 or 3. It was heating water but not enough pressure to push it around the rads! Turned it up via little switch and away they flew.

You will hear it spinning faster when you turn it. Its the only switch on the pump so give it a try...it might work!

Smidge

nacimroc wrote: »

We were in the same boat but it turned out the pumped was only set to 1 (lowest), should have been up at 2 or 3. It was heating water but not enough pressure to push it around the rads! Turned it up via little switch and away they flew.

You will hear it spinning faster when you turn it. Its the only switch on the pump so give it a try...it might work!

Plumber already tried that! It is set at 3 at the moment and is terribly noisy, literally wakes you up in the morning. Actually, we have no heating on at the moment and the stove is not lit and the bloody noise of the pump. OH put the oil heating on for 20 mins at 7o'clock and then turned it off about 7.20pm and the pump is banging away nearly 2 and a half hours later:eek:

Smidge

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi a baffle plate doesn't close. It is either installed or not.

It sounds a right puzzler as you should be far warmer than an open fire and use roughly the same fuel or less with a boiler stove and it should perform better than it is.

I can't suggest anything else I'm afraid:(


Stove Fan:)

Thanks anyway:)

Anybody else have any ideas???
Is it the stove or the plumbing?