STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

major deegan · 29-06-2012 7:56am

Thanks for that stove fan,your calculations and info will be a great help,now i'll have a fair idea what my requirements are . Much appreciated.

TopTec · 29-06-2012 10:56am

Good Morning all,

I had my kitchen chimney lined ready to fit a reconditioned Donard Superstar. The instructions state a measurement of 980mm from floor to centre of flue opening. The opening has been prepared exactly to this measurement. Now I have had the cooker delivered and find that the measurement is infact 1000mm!

That extra 20mm will mean a slight fall of 20mm from the back cowling of the cooker into the flue opening. The flue draws very well and my question is-

Will this slight fall be acceptable or do I need to start from scratch again which would entail either digging out a lowered hearth or ripping out the chimney breast again.

TT

Stove Fan · 29-06-2012 12:27pm

TopTec wrote: »

Good Morning all,

I had my kitchen chimney lined ready to fit a reconditioned Donard Superstar. The instructions state a measurement of 980mm from floor to centre of flue opening. The opening has been prepared exactly to this measurement. Now I have had the cooker delivered and find that the measurement is infact 1000mm!

That extra 20mm will mean a slight fall of 20mm from the back cowling of the cooker into the flue opening. The flue draws very well and my question is-

Will this slight fall be acceptable or do I need to start from scratch again which would entail either digging out a lowered hearth or ripping out the chimney breast again.

TT

As this flue is lined presumably with stainless flexible liner this horizontal run dipping could cause soot to gather in the flue:(. Hence causing a restriction once soot gathered. Max horizontal flue length of 150mm.

Personally I would redo the fluing ideally using the top exit on the flue soot box using a 45degree bend with soot door and use vitreous enameled pipe through the wall to connect to the stainless steel flexible flue liner.

With solid fuel and all burning appliances it's wise to install them 100% properly due to carbon monoxide etc. Not worth the risk. Buy a Co alarm too:)

Stove Fan:)

isaos · 30-06-2012 9:04am

Stove Fan wrote: »

I myself if money wasn't tight I would fully line to the top with a stainless steel flexible liner. This would give a good draw to the stove, make cleaning easier and avoid any risks of tar leaking out at the rigid pipe to clay liner adapter. This adapter is crucial to get a good seal to the base of the liners otherwise tar can leak out. Sometimes it's not possible to install due to the builder supporting the clay liners on concrete lintels. You need a flat base to get a good seal. If you look up your chimney you will see if it's flat.
Lining is the better choice:)

Stove Fan:)

Hello Stove Fan, I am jumping on this post as we are thinking of installing a Stanley Oisin (non boiler, the radiators are connected to the existing and highly efficient oil-fuelled Stanley range on the other side of the house). This is for extra comfort in case Electricity would fail! (and the fireplace is not very safe as it is).

It is an old Kerry house built c. 1910 and we wish to fully line the chimney, which comes straight from the gable wall. Could you explain what you mean by " Sometimes it's not possible to install due to the builder supporting the clay liners on concrete lintels"?

Thank you so much, your posts are so helpful.

AnCiotog · 30-06-2012 9:47am

I was told yesterday that Stanley stoves are now made in China. Can anyone confirm, and if they are are they still as high quality as before? We're hoping to get one to use in our sitting room and that will drive rads in the house too.

Stove Fan · 30-06-2012 12:31pm

isaos wrote: »

Hello Stove Fan, I am jumping on this post as we are thinking of installing a Stanley Oisin (non boiler, the radiators are connected to the existing and highly efficient oil-fuelled Stanley range on the other side of the house). This is for extra comfort in case Electricity would fail! (and the fireplace is not very safe as it is).

It is an old Kerry house built c. 1910 and we wish to fully line the chimney, which comes straight from the gable wall. Could you explain what you mean by " Sometimes it's not possible to install due to the builder supporting the clay liners on concrete lintels"? Thank you so much, your posts are so helpful.

Hi, a bit of confusion here. The concrete lintels were mentioned as in more modern homes with clay lined flues the builder sometimes used concrete lintels to support them, rather than a flue gatherer base. This then proved impossible to install a clay liner adapter to join the stove pipe to clay lined flue as the lintels were in the way to get a tar tight seal. This doesn't apply to your chimney:)

As your home was built in 1910, it/s very unlikely you will have any issues as your chimney won't be built with clay liners unless it was fully rebuilt later.

Have a look up the chimney if it's just brick/stone you should have no problems lining it:D. If on an external gable end wall I would advice sweep chimney first, liner down, build closure plate, to backfill around liner with vermiculite for insulation.

I'm in County Kerry too:)

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 30-06-2012 12:47pm

AnCiotog wrote: »

I was told yesterday that Stanley stoves are now made in China. Can anyone confirm, and if they are are they still as high quality as before? We're hoping to get one to use in our sitting room and that will drive rads in the house too.

According to the video they are Designed tested and made at their Waterford factory.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=LK9SMjX_3_E#!

It would of been nice in the video if they showed the castings being cast.

I personally would ask them direct:).

I have seen a stanley erin non boiler recently and it looked fine on a quick glance but could see the glow of the fire through the door seal in parts. They liked the stove and were delighted with it for heat output compared to the previous open fire. The glass was rather dirty. They burnt turf and wood.

Stove Fan:)

confusedeire · 01-07-2012 2:01pm

hi

i was looking in to get one of these stoves to replace my open gas fire. i was just wondering what yer thoughts were on this stove. when installing i will be relining the chimney

isaos · 01-07-2012 2:45pm

Thanks a mill for your answer! Someone was saying that we should insulate to stop the vibration coming from the pipe, is that also one of the roles of vermiculite?
We are in Kenmare, sunny and warm Kerry....

Stove Fan · 01-07-2012 2:56pm

isaos wrote: »

Thanks a mill for your answer! Someone was saying that we should insulate to stop the vibration coming from the pipe, is that also one of the roles of vermiculite?
We are in Kenmare, sunny and warm Kerry....

Trust me you will have no vibration from the flexible flue liner even without vermiculite insulation. Adding the insulation is a better job though and would certainly use it on an old chimney or a chimney on an external wall.

Oh yes our summer, drissly/wet here near Castleisland:rolleyes: We have got our fire going

Stove Fan:)

cordni · 02-07-2012 8:21pm

Hi there, I am looking for a multifuel boiler stove, a small freestanding variety, if possible I would like to slot it into the existing fireplace but I appreciate I may not be able to do this. My sitting room is approximately 16 ft by 8 ft.

There are the following radiators in the house

4 double radiators 1200 x 450 (one of these is in the sitting room so I guess I wouldnt need to heat that one).

2 double radiators 900 x 450

2 double radiators 400 x 450

1 x towel rail

I am trying to keep the cost down as much as possible but also don't want something that is going to need replacing in a few years.

I have no idea what KW value I should be looking for. Would really appreciate any help anyone could give me.

Thanks in advance

Stove Fan · 02-07-2012 9:59pm

cordni wrote: »

Hi there, I am looking for a multifuel boiler stove, a small freestanding variety, if possible I would like to slot it into the existing fireplace but I appreciate I may not be able to do this. My sitting room is approximately 16 ft by 8 ft.

There are the following radiators in the house

4 double radiators 1200 x 450 (one of these is in the sitting room so I guess I wouldnt need to heat that one).

2 double radiators 900 x 450

2 double radiators 400 x 450

1 x towel rail

I am trying to keep the cost down as much as possible but also don't want something that is going to need replacing in a few years.

I have no idea what KW value I should be looking for. Would really appreciate any help anyone could give me.

Thanks in advance

Hi your looking for a back boiler of around 12kw. Your room requires around 2kw to heat 16ft X 8ft X 8ft room.

As your fireplace I presume is a standard sized open fire then you couldn't have a freestanding stove placed in the opening as you need 150mm clearance either side of the stove and at least 300mm above. This is to allow air to circulate air around the stove in the opening to dissipate the heat and to comply with building regs and manufacturers instructions.

This is an older model Arrow boiler stove. It has a low room heat output:D http://www.stovesareus.co.uk/catalog/aarrow-stratford-ti40b-inset-multifuel-woodburning-stove-p-568.html This is to show what it looks like, the price may well be cheaper elsewhere.

There is the Esse 350 Greenswitch but produces 3.6kw to room so the room with stove may get too hot unless several doors could be opened.
http://www.esse.com/multifuel-stoves/350gs/

There may be others but most boiler stoves of that size give out between 4-6kw to room:(.

Stove Fan:)

cordni · 02-07-2012 10:20pm

Thanks so much stove fan for the fantastic information. You really are great to give up so much of your time to answer our questions.

The stoves you recommended are nice but I really want the freestanding stove - personally I like the morso squirrel type. I understand I will have to get the fireplace surround taken out... is it possible then to go with something like the morso (really like it but hope to find something cheaper, budget is tight)

Thanks again for your fantastic help. At least I now know what KW I need

Sorry forgot to add, double doors from sitting room into a kitchen diner which is generally cold even with central heating on, so I think that room will be happy with the extra heat if output is a little high in sitting room

Thanks again

Stove Fan · 02-07-2012 10:57pm

cordni wrote: »

Thanks so much stove fan for the fantastic information. You really are great to give up so much of your time to answer our questions.

The stoves you recommended are nice but I really want the freestanding stove - personally I like the morso squirrel type. I understand I will have to get the fireplace surround taken out... is it possible then to go with something like the morso (really like it but hope to find something cheaper, budget is tight)

Thanks again for your fantastic help. At least I now know what KW I need

Sorry forgot to add, double doors from sitting room into a kitchen diner which is generally cold even with central heating on, so I think that room will be happy with the extra heat if output is a little high in sitting room Thanks again

No problem, I like to help if I can:D Morso are a great stove but very few large boiler versions. The morso is very small, so for more heat and boiler output needs to be bigger. Morso is expensive if on a budget:eek:

If you have an open fire and the house is not that old you can only either install an inset stove or have the freestanding stove infront of the old open fire opening.
If the house is old you may be able to enlarge the old open fire opening to place a freestanding stove into.

What style stove are you after? This may suit as you have the double doors. http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb12-he.html I would doubt it produces 6kw to the room considering it's small size? Maybee other owners on here could confirm if it produces 6kw to room:).

Stove Fan:)

cordni · 02-07-2012 11:05pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

No problem, I like to help if I can:D Morso are a great stove but very few large boiler versions. The morso is very small, so for more heat and boiler output needs to be bigger. Morso is expensive if on a budget:eek:

If you have an open fire and the house is not that old you can only either install an inset stove or have the freestanding stove infront of the old open fire opening.
If the house is old you may be able to enlarge the old open fire opening to place a freestanding stove into.

What style stove are you after? This may suit as you have the double doors. http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb12-he.html I would doubt it produces 6kw to the room considering it's small size? Maybee other owners on here could confirm if it produces 6kw to room:).

Stove Fan:)

Hi Stove Fan, once again thanks for the fantastic help. yes what I would ideally like to do is have a stove sit in front of the existing fire opening. My house is 7 years old. I really like the stove you linked to. Just need to get on with saving now. I know it will be so worth it in the long run

Stove Fan · 03-07-2012 2:02pm

cordni wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan, once again thanks for the fantastic help. yes what I would ideally like to do is have a stove sit in front of the existing fire opening. My house is 7 years old. I really like the stove you linked to. Just need to get on with saving now. I know it will be so worth it in the long run

Sitting the stove infront of the chimney is definately fine providing the hearth size it sits on is to the stove manufacturers instructions.

Normally 225-300mm infront and 150mm each side.

You may not need to line the chimney being a new house so should have a clay liner, although if budget isn't an option I would advice lining the chimney being a boiler stove due to possible condensation.

The liner is the better job. You could see how it went without and always retrofit a liner.

You will like a stove.
Stove Fan:)

cordni · 07-07-2012 11:57am

Hi Again Stove Fan. i have had somebody around to quote on installing a boiler stove connected to radiators. It transpires my system is a closed system so would end up being very costly to install. I have now decided to just go with a non boiler stove in the sitting room. I want to get one that will heat the sitting room which has double doors into kitchen diner, so hoping to heat that also. Could you advise what kind of KW stove I would need. Thanks in advance

Stove Fan · 07-07-2012 12:44pm

cordni wrote: »

Hi Again Stove Fan. i have had somebody around to quote on installing a boiler stove connected to radiators. It transpires my system is a closed system so would end up being very costly to install. I have now decided to just go with a non boiler stove in the sitting room. I want to get one that will heat the sitting room which has double doors into kitchen diner, so hoping to heat that also. Could you advise what kind of KW stove I would need. Thanks in advance

Hi, how unfortunate with the closed heating system:( There are a few boiler stoves that can be plumbed into a sealed system but they do cost far more.

Your sitting room requires around 2kw to heat it. If your kitchen diner is a similar size room or slightly bigger I would say a 5kw stove would be ideal.

Consider the morso squirrel or the charnwood island 1

http://morso.co.uk/product/morso-1410/

http://www.charnwood.com/range/stove/island-i.aspx

Both are superb stoves but myself I would have the dearer charnwood.

Or if you prefer more simple style. Woodwarm slender 5kw.

http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/fireview-slender-range/5kwfireview.ashx

The big plus with the charnwood is if your house is very airtight it may need an additional room wall vent if the house has an air permability test report of less than 5.0m3/h.m2. If your home hasn't been tested for this then it's unlikely to need additional ventilation with a stove rated under 5kw output. The charnwood has an external air option:) .

Air permeability above > 5.0m³/h.m²
550mm² ventilation for each kW above 5kW
Air permeability ≤ 5.0m³/h.m²
550mm² ventilation for each kW

Stove Fan:)

cordni · 07-07-2012 12:56pm

Thanks much Stove Fan you have been so helpful. From the beginning I have been drawn to the morso, so I think that might be the one. The fireview is a very nice looking stove also. Im off to search the net for a deal on either one of those. Thanks again

Rathvarna · 08-07-2012 5:32pm

Hi All & Stove Fan.. Apologies for jumping into the middle of this post….I’m a Newbie & it’s my first attempt,:eek: so please be kind. Hope anyone can help with the following…
I am in the process of installing a Stratford eb12he into an existing oil fired Ch system (firebird super Q 50/82). I have some experience installing CH in the Uk but not stoves and not as a linked system. I like to keep thing as simple as possible, the idea is oil is used first in the morning (timed) then at some point in the day the Stratford is lit and Valhalla, hot water and CH all day long. We live in a modest new built bungalow (circa 10 yrs old) it is well insulated etc etc I cannot envisage a scenario where both stove and boiler will be required at the same time.
Here’s some questions I cannot get my head around. Must the heat sink rad be so positioned that it is above the height of the stove. Can I connect the Stratford using 2 cross flow tapings (this seems more logical in a linked sys) or must the stove be connected using all 4 tapings, in which case where is the Firebird connected in the circuit to supply heat to both HW and CH and finally, one pump or two ?.
Any experience suggestions / opinions greatly appreciated, also if anybody can direct me to a site with schematic’s etc this would also help.
We live in the north west, I know it’s a tad closer to the Artic Circle than our cousins “down south” but no way will I need both the oil and Stove kicking out Btu’s at the same time. This is about weaning myself off the oil dependency and having a choice.
Regards

Stove Fan · 08-07-2012 5:52pm

Rathvarna wrote: »

Hi All & Stove Fan.. Apologies for jumping into the middle of this post….I’m a Newbie & it’s my first attempt,:eek: so please be kind. Hope anyone can help with the following…
I am in the process of installing a Stratford eb12he into an existing oil fired Ch system (firebird super Q 50/82). I have some experience installing CH in the Uk but not stoves and not as a linked system. I like to keep thing as simple as possible, the idea is oil is used first in the morning (timed) then at some point in the day the Stratford is lit and Valhalla, hot water and CH all day long. We live in a modest new built bungalow (circa 10 yrs old) it is well insulated etc etc I cannot envisage a scenario where both stove and boiler will be required at the same time.
Here’s some questions I cannot get my head around. Must the heat sink rad be so positioned that it is above the height of the stove. Can I connect the Stratford using 2 cross flow tapings (this seems more logical in a linked sys) or must the stove be connected using all 4 tapings, in which case where is the Firebird connected in the circuit to supply heat to both HW and CH and finally, one pump or two ?.
Any experience suggestions / opinions greatly appreciated, also if anybody can direct me to a site with schematic’s etc this would also help.
We live in the north west, I know it’s a tad closer to the Artic Circle than our cousins “down south” but no way will I need both the oil and Stove kicking out Btu’s at the same time. This is about weaning myself off the oil dependency and having a choice.
Regards

Hi, it's very hard/dangerous to advice fully when we haven't seen your system layout. The basics are:

Fully open vented system for stove and oil boiler. Is your oil boiler open vented with small tank in loft next to a big one? This is vital for safety.

There are two ways it can be plumbed either using just 2 boiler outlets or using all 4.

I prefer using all 4. One set of 1 inch pipes going to the new twin coil cylinder in the hotpress and reducing to 3/4 to the feed and expansion tank.. The hot water cylinder usually heats by gravity as with a gravity hot water system the hot water cylinder is usually above the stove either in loft or first floor if house.

The second set of 3/4 pipes connect into the rad circuit.

The other way is to use just 2 boiler outlets and run them to the cylinder again in 1 inch copper, then reduce to 3/4 pipework to the feed and expansion tank. The pipework to the rads will branch off in 3/4 from the main 1 inch pipes to the rads.

Each of these will have a gravity radiator plumbed in to dissipate heat in the event of a powercut.

I would seriously advice you to bring a plumber in to at least work with you, if not fully install:).
It isn't a straightforward job espeacially if the cylinder is downstairs as an overheat situation has to be designed into the system to keep you safe.
If any doubt employ a plumber.

Stove Fan:).

Rathvarna · 08-07-2012 7:19pm

thanks Stove Fan,
The oil is fully open vented, the expansion tank and house water tank are in the loft directly above the HW cylinder and an ideal location for the Stratford. The base of the hw cylinder is above the top of the Stratford by 15 inch and apprx two metres away (the Sratford is not in yet nor will it be until this is right). I intended on a new expansion tank for the oil boiler but with both expantion tanks on the same sys how do you get a common water level in both ?. I was pondering on one larger expansion tank to cope with both, the oil boiler being aprox six/eight metres away (as the crow flies) floor mounted and of course the present vent and feed for the oil are with the hw cylinder in the press. I have been asking at local merchants for a good plumber but so far I have no info on anybody with experiance with "Linked Systems" however early days yet.

Again may thanks fory our reply

Lorenzo Bananaflax · 08-07-2012 9:41pm

I'm sorry for just jumping in here, but I have just joined and I am still trying to work it all out...

I'm needing some advice (help)... I read the J regs and decided to build a 5" thick concrete plinth 840mm square... right up against a newly opened chimney. The problem is that the chimney opening is too bloody small for the stove I wanted and it has one of those "combined lintels" that only just spans the opening thanks to previous works by folks unknown... Anyhow I was wondering if it is ok:

To line the chimney (8m) with a 6" 904/904 liner and instead of a register plate, have the liner protruding through the bricked-up opening (surround it with fire cement and finish with heat plaster?) and have it entering straight into the back opening of my stove? The horizontal is maybe 2" and into the stove connector/reducer- The stove is 5" (Firefox 5CB). When attached, the stove will be 150-170mm from the bricked-up wall and there will be about 3" of flexi showing as it protrudes through the wall and enters the adapter.

Would this setup be alright? The flexi will be cemented and screwed with 316 ST's. Is it ok to surround and "close-off" using masonary, fire screed and have the liner terminated like this?

Please tell me this is alright, cause I REALLY Don't fancy trying to install a register plate in the bottom of this chimney... Thanks for any help in advance:D.

Stove Fan · 08-07-2012 10:21pm

Lorenzo Bananaflax wrote: »

I'm sorry for just jumping in here, but I have just joined and I am still trying to work it all out...
I'm needing some advice (help)... I read the J regs and decided to build a 5" thick concrete plinth 840mm square... right up against a newly opened chimney. The problem is that the chimney opening is too bloody small for the stove I wanted and it has one of those "combined lintels" that only just spans the opening thanks to previous works by folks unknown... Anyhow I was wondering if it is ok:

To line the chimney (8m) with a 6" 904/904 liner and instead of a register plate, have the liner protruding through the bricked-up opening (surround it with fire cement and finish with heat plaster?) and have it entering straight into the back opening of my stove? The horizontal is maybe 2" and into the stove connector/reducer- The stove is 5" (Firefox 5CB). When attached, the stove will be 150-170mm from the bricked-up wall and there will be about 3" of flexi showing as it protrudes through the wall and enters the adapter.

Would this setup be alright? The flexi will be cemented and screwed with 316 ST's. Is it ok to surround and "close-off" using masonary, fire screed and have the liner terminated like this?

Please tell me this is alright, cause I REALLY Don't fancy trying to install a register plate in the bottom of this chimney... Thanks for any help in advance:D.

Sounds ok, providing the liner at the base falls down to the stoves rear outlet and the horizontal run is less than 6 inches or 150mm and you can sweep the chimney through the stove. The nearer the stove to the wall the better. 3 inches away is normal, but follow stoves instructions.

You can brick up the opening and use heatproof plaster to finish around the stove. So long as anything constructed near the stove is non combustible and anything combustible is the recommended clearance to combustibles to the stoves installation instructions.

Stove Fan:)

Lorenzo Bananaflax · 08-07-2012 11:01pm

Thank you so much- I will sleep easy tonight- You are a star.

Just got to get over my fear of heights now:D

raglan · 13-07-2012 11:00am

Hi Stovefan & all,
Looking for advice. We had an open fire with back boiler, open fire gave no great heat so blocked up back and put Oisin stanly stove in which was great. But now we are thinking of widening the chimney breast a bit to inset a boiler stove as back boiler pipes still there and to save on oil and to have usual perks of back boiler. We were looking at Stanley Erin stove as we have a Stanley Brandon range and they are meant to be a good stove, but I see Stratford EB12 recommended quite a bit and also it's more compact in size with the same output.

excuse my ignorance but We live in a two storey , 6 yrs old, I assume a back boiler heats only rads upstairs?? I am posting all rads and room dimensions here anyway.

Upstairs
Bedroom 1 double rad. 108 x 52cm
Bedroom 2. Double rad. 98 x 52
Landing. Double. 88 x 52
Bedroom 3, 2 small double rads, 58 x 52
Bedroom 4, 2 small double rads, 48 x 52
Bathroom , single rad, 39 x 50
Ensuite , single rad, 48 x 52

Downstairs
Hall, single rad, 59 x52. Double rad 88x52
Sitting room 68x42 double rads, two of these
Living room 68 x42 double rads, two of these
Utility 79x52 single
Toilet 50 x52 single
Back hall 49 x 52 single
Kitchen and conservatory link into one another, sitting room is off kitchen and double doors we had have been took off for various reasons, so basically the sitting room, kitchen, conservatory all open together. conservatory south facing so good heat when there is sun. conservatory has 3 double rads all 138 x 42 cm. the stove is in the sitting room.
Room dimensions of sitting room is 4.4 m x 3.9m leading kitchen/conservatory combined dimensions of 10.4m x 3.7m.
Even with the small Oisin on in winter, you can feel the heat in kitchen / conservatory from it so looking stove that would give similar room heat as Oisin but also heat water / rads to take chill from upstairs room. Any recommendations on the 2 stoves I listed would be great or any other recommendations. Already have had a builder and plumber have a quick look to see if it' ll be a big job but because we have back boiler pipes built in already should be ok. Thanks you

torres3011 · 13-07-2012 11:58am

Hi Stove fan,

How in gods name your not doing this for a living is beyond me.

Consultancy firm written all over it.

You are doing a public service on here mate.

My stove is going strong, 6 months after your advice.

Thanks again

Frank

Stove Fan · 13-07-2012 1:16pm

raglan wrote: »

Hi Stovefan & all,
Looking for advice. We had an open fire with back boiler, open fire gave no great heat so blocked up back and put Oisin stanly stove in which was great. But now we are thinking of widening the chimney breast a bit to inset a boiler stove as back boiler pipes still there and to save on oil and to have usual perks of back boiler. We were looking at Stanley Erin stove as we have a Stanley Brandon range and they are meant to be a good stove, but I see Stratford EB12 recommended quite a bit and also it's more compact in size with the same output.

excuse my ignorance but We live in a two storey , 6 yrs old, I assume a back boiler heats only rads upstairs?? I am posting all rads and room dimensions here anyway.

Upstairs
Bedroom 1 double rad. 108 x 52cm
Bedroom 2. Double rad. 98 x 52
Landing. Double. 88 x 52
Bedroom 3, 2 small double rads, 58 x 52
Bedroom 4, 2 small double rads, 48 x 52
Bathroom , single rad, 39 x 50
Ensuite , single rad, 48 x 52

Downstairs
Hall, single rad, 59 x52. Double rad 88x52
Sitting room 68x42 double rads, two of these
Living room 68 x42 double rads, two of these
Utility 79x52 single
Toilet 50 x52 single
Back hall 49 x 52 single
Kitchen and conservatory link into one another, sitting room is off kitchen and double doors we had have been took off for various reasons, so basically the sitting room, kitchen, conservatory all open together. conservatory south facing so good heat when there is sun. conservatory has 3 double rads all 138 x 42 cm. the stove is in the sitting room.
Room dimensions of sitting room is 4.4 m x 3.9m leading kitchen/conservatory combined dimensions of 10.4m x 3.7m.
Even with the small Oisin on in winter, you can feel the heat in kitchen / conservatory from it so looking stove that would give similar room heat as Oisin but also heat water / rads to take chill from upstairs room. Any recommendations on the 2 stoves I listed would be great or any other recommendations. Already have had a builder and plumber have a quick look to see if it' ll be a big job but because we have back boiler pipes built in already should be ok. Thanks you

Hi:) Your stove should heat most of the Kitchen/living room/conservatory on it's own so have only based the figure on the remaining rads.

Your new stove will/should be plumbed to heat upstairs and downstairs rads if thats what you want:)

Your looking for a stove with a 15kw-18kw back boiler and around 7kw to the room. with having no double doors to the kitchen the heat should circulate to the other rooms.

Your actual rads equate to around 12kw but you need to allow 2-3kw for domestic hot water. Plus I have allowed a bit extra output incase you need some rads on in conservatory.

I personally would consider the arrow EB16.
http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb16-he.html

If your system is zoned and you didnt heat both zones at once you could install a smaller output boiler stove, but myself I would go and heat all the rads I mentioned.

The stanley erin and EB12 boiler output would be too small a boiler output to heat all the rads I mentioned.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 13-07-2012 3:30pm

torres3011 wrote: »

Hi Stove fan,

How in gods name your not doing this for a living is beyond me.

Consultancy firm written all over it.

You are doing a public service on here mate.

My stove is going strong, 6 months after your advice.

Thanks again

Frank

Hi Frank:) I really don't know if I would actually get enough customers to make it worthwhile starting in buisiness. I don't even know how you go into buisness here on the legality sides, tax, insurance etc etc.
Can you earn so much before paying tax?

If I did it would be in a 40km radius of Tralee.

Great to hear your stove is going strong 6 months after my advice:D

What with the "Summer" as it is, we have had the odd fire going:eek: Crazy in Summer!!

Stove Fan:)

torres3011 · 13-07-2012 3:40pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi Frank:) I really don't know if I would actually get enough customers to make it worthwhile starting in buisiness. I don't even know how you go into buisness here on the legality sides, tax, insurance etc etc.
Can you earn so much before paying tax?

If I did it would be in a 40km radius of Tralee.

Great to hear your stove is going strong 6 months after my advice:D

What with the "Summer" as it is, we have had the odd fire going:eek: Crazy in Summer!!

Stove Fan:)

Not too much of a legal eagle meself like...:D:D

Tell you one thing though, if you had a paypal acc I would have gladly paid a fiver or a tenner for the advice.

Im in Cork and you helped me out and I can see from the thread your still at it.. so the Tralee radius is a moot point.

"Stove Fan Ltd. For all your online Stove Queries"

:D

Seriously though, whether you get rich or not from it I think you are helping a great many people out there on the tinterweb. Don't underestimate how hard good impartial advice on any subject is to come by.

Thanks again..

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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