Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

FrankC21 · 26-04-2021 3:45pm

wotzgoingon wrote: »

I don't know if yours is a diesel or petrol but if petrol then the samll pipe connects to the breather on the valve cover.

I think i get what your saying cause I got a small filter that came with it (image attached) I put that into that valve. Therefore, the small pipe that is coming out of the main intake pipe I closed it with a rubber screw, so no unfiltered air can get in. But I bought a blue thin hose like the yellow one from previous poster. Can I connect it to the breather valve and the small pipe on the main intake pipe? Will that work then?

fancy pigeon · 26-04-2021 3:49pm

wotzgoingon wrote: »

You done well to get them off especially if they have the spinning outer ring which they look to have from my eyes anyway.

They sure were the spinning type

The trick with these is power from different angles, which I can utilize with the inch gun. I had a 7/8 originally but that wasn't tight enough. 2 of them smashed the spinning collars off, an 18 hammered on took those off

FrankC21 · 26-04-2021 3:51pm

wotzgoingon wrote: »

I don't know what you are expecting by fitting a cone filter you will not gain HP like the companies who sell them will tell you. The car will drive the same as with the stock box and filter.

Ive watched videos and read articles I understand that there's a higher possibility that I won't gain any HP, But i really feel it actually improved a bit on the motorway it got a bit of kick when i get into higher rpm, and the honda engine sound is class like this is the first time I tried this sort of stuff.

And more cold air = more power, but Again you will most likely point out that engine bay air gets hotter.

fancy pigeon · 26-04-2021 3:59pm

FrankC21 wrote: »

Ive watched videos and read articles I understand that there's a higher possibility that I won't gain any HP, But i really feel it actually improved a bit on the motorway it got a bit of kick when i get into higher rpm, and the honda engine sound is class like this is the first time I tried this sort of stuff.

And more cold air = more power, but Again you will most likely point out that engine bay air gets hotter.

Placebo

Before and after on the dyno is the only proven way. Out of the box kits are usually **** and draw in hot air

Picture of the setup would help clear this all up

Dale Parish · 26-04-2021 5:58pm

Upgraded brake lines to braided, master cyl to E65 7 series one, replaced degrading TPS sensor and cleaned up the plenum in the M5 with engine degreaser.

Started removing the engine also this weekend on my new-to-me E34 ahead of the engine overhaul

vintagevrs · 26-04-2021 6:51pm

Nice one, I watched this recently and presume you did too!

https://youtu.be/R47XW7jFAT4

FrankC21 · 26-04-2021 9:42pm

Here are the photos hopefully it will help.

As you can see from the photos I managed to close the small pipe hole using cable ties and rubber screw, I have no idea what to attach it to.

Dale Parish · 26-04-2021 10:06pm

vintagevrs wrote: »

Nice one, I watched this recently and presume you did too!

https://youtu.be/R47XW7jFAT4

Yeah haha I did! I've been following the thread on M5board for a while now so that was really my final motivation to just get it done

Kenny Logins · 27-04-2021 11:09am

vintagevrs wrote: »

Nice one, I watched this recently and presume you did too!

https://youtu.be/R47XW7jFAT4

I knew what channel this was before clicking the link.

MetzgerMeister · 27-04-2021 11:40am

I LOVE M539Restorations. Very entertaining and detailed.

advertsfox · 27-04-2021 11:59am

The DS3 gave me its first problem yesterday. Took it for a long drive yesterday (first in ages), put the AC on max because it was sweating out - tried turn it down after a while to hear the radio and was stuck on level 5. Hmmm, quick off / on of the car, still blasting away - except now at a warm temp so I was sweating again

Turns out to be a motor blower fan resistor which sits deep behind the dashboard (common issue). Handy enough to take out if you have twig arms... which I dont! New one arriving off Amazon tomorrow for just €21 should sort it.

FrankC21 · 28-04-2021 4:23pm

Hi,

So do I take out the little breather filter out and connect back to intake pipe or leave as it is.

MrCostington · 04-05-2021 8:26am

The wipers stopped working on my A4, it was one of the pivot shafts that the blade attached to, was seized solid. Even after using penetrating oil overnight I could hardly move it with a vice grips - the motor must be really strong to have moved it at all. Was a nightmare getting the assembly in and out, but managed to take apart and grease.

blade1 · 05-05-2021 9:26am

Just an oil/filter change.
First time not being done by lexus.
Nice to see you get a good level of butchery from the main dealer for your money.
What were they at this with?
Also, torqued to twice the spec.

BlakeS94 · 05-05-2021 9:51am

blade1 wrote: »

Just an oil/filter change.
First time not being done by lexus.
Nice to see you get a good level of butchery from the main dealer for your money.
What were they at this with?
Also, torqued to twice the spec.

It probably wasn't torqued, it was ugga dugga'd

CianRyan · 05-05-2021 12:09pm

I'd say they used that bottom part to tighten the entire filter housing. Even toyota dealers rarely have the right tool for the job.
That's mashed though, should really have been replaced.

blade1 · 05-05-2021 1:02pm

CianRyan wrote: »

I'd say they used that bottom part to tighten the entire filter housing. Even toyota dealers rarely have the right tool for the job.
That's mashed though, should really have been replaced.

All it is is a 3/8" drive size.
Not exactly a specialist tool.
They would have needed to use the special tool to take off the filter,can't see why they wouldn't use it to put it back on.

CianRyan · 05-05-2021 3:29pm

blade1 wrote: »

All it is is a 3/8" drive size.
Not exactly a specialist tool.
They would have needed to use the special tool to take off the filter,can't see why they wouldn't use it to put it back on.

Not for that, that little cap is to drain the filter before removing it, correct?
The filter housing itself is the aluminum cup that has an awkward side?

At least that's the case on every other Toyota/ Lexus of that vintage I've worked on.

blade1 · 05-05-2021 3:32pm

CianRyan wrote: »

Not for that, that little cap is to drain the filter before removing it, correct?
The filter housing itself is the aluminum cup that has an awkward side?

At least that's the case on every other Toyota/ Lexus of that vintage I've worked on.

Yes correct.
I opened the cap with an extension bar from my socket set.
No need for anything on the end of it.

advertsfox · 07-05-2021 8:34pm

advertsfox wrote: »

The DS3 gave me its first problem yesterday. Took it for a long drive yesterday (first in ages), put the AC on max because it was sweating out - tried turn it down after a while to hear the radio and was stuck on level 5. Hmmm, quick off / on of the car, still blasting away - except now at a warm temp so I was sweating again

Turns out to be a motor blower fan resistor which sits deep behind the dashboard (common issue). Handy enough to take out if you have twig arms... which I dont! New one arriving off Amazon tomorrow for just €21 should sort it.

Issue fixed, at last. Buy cheap, buy twice. The Amazon version was a dud so I ended up buying a proper version from Mister Auto for €60 that arrived today.

Tails142 · 08-05-2021 11:02am

Yeah what is the story with these resistors, the two bmw's I've owned and now a fiesta have all had this issue and I've found the cheap ebay resistors only last a few months before blowing, I'd say between those three cars I've replaced about 6 of them, other cars I've owned for years no bother at all. I wonder why they're so unreliable sometimes.

joujoujou · 10-05-2021 9:17am

Spent the whole day struggling to find a problem with ms jou's ASX.

The problem - RH front parking light not working intermittently.

Bulb replaced - nope, problem still there.

Checked ALL fuses - all good.

Noticed that RHS rear parking light also acts silly - it won't shine as bright as it should, just glows, barely noticeable. It has built-in LED light in there, not repairable. If faulty, the entire light cluster has to be replaced. Took both LHS and RHS out and swapped - LHS plugged to RHS wire glows, while RHS plugged on the left - shines perfectly. So that's not the cluster I have a problem with. Cleaned all the connectors - no change.

At that stage I just made myself a break, put everything back in and went to the internet with a hope to find a solution (there is none in the manual).

The solution: FOUND IT! Took me 5 minutes. Russian and Polish forums both mention that on that very circuit there's another bulb that needs to be checked - in the glovebox! :eek:

I hope whoever designed that and did not mention the consequences in the manual will burn in hell!

Bulb replaced - problem solved! Just to add - LED bulb will work, but intermittent parking lights behaviour will stay - it MUST be ordinary W1.2W bulb in the glovebox to get things sorted.

punisher5112 · 10-05-2021 9:20am

joujoujou wrote: »

Spent the whole day struggling to find a problem with ms jou's ASX.

The problem - RH front parking light not working intermittently.

Bulb replaced - nope, problem still there.

Checked ALL fuses - all good.

Noticed that RHS rear parking light also acts silly - it won't shine as bright as it should, just glows, barely noticeable. It has built-in LED light in there, not repairable. If faulty, the entire light cluster has to be replaced. Took both LHS and RHS out and swapped - LHS plugged to RHS wire glows, while RHS plugged on the left - shines perfectly. So that's not the cluster I have a problem with. Cleaned all the connectors - no change.

At that stage I just made myself a break, put everything back in and went to the internet with a hope to find a solution (there is none in the manual).

The solution: FOUND IT! Took me 5 minutes. Russian and Polish forums both mention that on that very circuit there's another bulb that needs to be checked - in the glovebox! :eek:

I hope whoever designed that and did not mention the consequences in the manual will burn in hell!

Bulb replaced - problem solved! Just to add - LED bulb will work, but intermittent parking lights behaviour will stay - it MUST be ordinary W1.2W bulb in the glovebox to get things sorted.

Wow, what moron designed that.

crasy dash · 10-05-2021 9:29am

joujoujou wrote: »

Spent the whole day struggling to find a problem with ms jou's ASX.

The problem - RH front parking light not working intermittently.

Bulb replaced - nope, problem still there.

Checked ALL fuses - all good.

Noticed that RHS rear parking light also acts silly - it won't shine as bright as it should, just glows, barely noticeable. It has built-in LED light in there, not repairable. If faulty, the entire light cluster has to be replaced. Took both LHS and RHS out and swapped - LHS plugged to RHS wire glows, while RHS plugged on the left - shines perfectly. So that's not the cluster I have a problem with. Cleaned all the connectors - no change.

At that stage I just made myself a break, put everything back in and went to the internet with a hope to find a solution (there is none in the manual).

The solution: FOUND IT! Took me 5 minutes. Russian and Polish forums both mention that on that very circuit there's another bulb that needs to be checked - in the glovebox! :eek:

I hope whoever designed that and did not mention the consequences in the manual will burn in hell!

Bulb replaced - problem solved! Just to add - LED bulb will work, but intermittent parking lights behaviour will stay - it MUST be ordinary W1.2W bulb in the glovebox to get things sorted.

That's some result what a cluster feck of a design for a circuit though.
Have to give credit to the polish and Russian lads they are unreal at the depth the go into when searching for a fault nothing ever seems to beat them.

advertsfox · 11-05-2021 8:11am

crasy dash wrote: »

That's some result what a cluster feck of a design for a circuit though.
Have to give credit to the polish and Russian lads they are unreal at the depth the go into when searching for a fault nothing ever seems to beat them.

Russians... great lunch of lads

Can you use add a resistor at this point so you can keep the white LED light in the glove box instead of the candle?

joujoujou · 11-05-2021 8:24am

advertsfox wrote: »

[...]

Can you use add a resistor at this point so you can keep the white LED light in the glove box instead of the candle?

If it was my car, I would add separate circuit exclusively for the LED and keep the bulb on original circuit just to avoid trouble. But it's missus' car and she says she doesn't really need a light in there at all, so my job is done.

fancy pigeon · 11-05-2021 4:38pm

A common problem with certain vintage of Volvo... The ETM, or Electronic Throttle Module

Why this is a problem

You may have seen this piece of sh*t throttle before on wheeler dealers, the Maserati 3200GT episode

And of course, my S60 has this piece of scrap installed! And it showed signs of failing :rolleyes:

So on Saturday I decided to repair it. Not a nice process, I will put pictures up at a later date when I have the time, but the process is outlined here

Cut a long story short did it work? Did it f*ck. It only dawned on me when I was on the way to the garage I got a completely different error to the usual "Reduced Performance" message and the car was fairly difficult to drive from then on; the ETM had fully crapped itself. 3 hours and a new Sacer unit down the toilet!

I've ordered a replacement and I'm waiting patiently for it. I'll get pictures of it's installation, I may have to code it into the car with Vida, which I have and have working very well

Magnetti Marelli are useless f*ckwits who couldn't make chewing gum stick to a seat; they are dead to me. Useless shower of incompetent c*nts :rolleyes:

Cass · 12-05-2021 12:01am

Easiest job in the world today. Bonnet release handle was slack and the handle was coming up too far to the point i was nervous it was break or break the cable.

Quick check on the interweb, and i found out by loosening one nut, pulling the armoured cable back tight (it slackens/slides forward over years with use), and tightening the nut again its fixed. Bonnet up and job done. Took about 3 minutes.

I love these little jobs that takes minutes and fix a niggle.

BlakeS94 · 12-05-2021 11:20am

Cass wrote: »

Easiest job in the world today. Bonnet release handle was slack and the handle was coming up too far to the point i was nervous it was break or break the cable.

Quick check on the interweb, and i found out by loosening one nut, pulling the armoured cable back tight (it slackens/slides forward over years with use), and tightening the nut again its fixed. Bonnet up and job done. Took about 3 minutes.

I love these little jobs that takes minutes and fix a niggle.

Great confidence boost those jobs, recently fixed a car horn that was just a loose connection, front undertray off, sprayed some contact cleaner on the pins, and a bit of trickery with electrical tape and cable ties, took less than 10mins and cost me €0

CianRyan · 12-05-2021 12:26pm

The amount of times I've done those jobs and some poor sod has been charged €120 and a free coffee is tragic.
I little effort goes a long way!

Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

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