Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

FrankC21 · 26-04-2021 3:45pm

wotzgoingon wrote: »

I don't know if yours is a diesel or petrol but if petrol then the samll pipe connects to the breather on the valve cover.

I think i get what your saying cause I got a small filter that came with it (image attached) I put that into that valve. Therefore, the small pipe that is coming out of the main intake pipe I closed it with a rubber screw, so no unfiltered air can get in. But I bought a blue thin hose like the yellow one from previous poster. Can I connect it to the breather valve and the small pipe on the main intake pipe? Will that work then?

fancy pigeon · 26-04-2021 3:49pm

wotzgoingon wrote: »

You done well to get them off especially if they have the spinning outer ring which they look to have from my eyes anyway.

They sure were the spinning type

The trick with these is power from different angles, which I can utilize with the inch gun. I had a 7/8 originally but that wasn't tight enough. 2 of them smashed the spinning collars off, an 18 hammered on took those off

FrankC21 · 26-04-2021 3:51pm

wotzgoingon wrote: »

I don't know what you are expecting by fitting a cone filter you will not gain HP like the companies who sell them will tell you. The car will drive the same as with the stock box and filter.

Ive watched videos and read articles I understand that there's a higher possibility that I won't gain any HP, But i really feel it actually improved a bit on the motorway it got a bit of kick when i get into higher rpm, and the honda engine sound is class like this is the first time I tried this sort of stuff.

And more cold air = more power, but Again you will most likely point out that engine bay air gets hotter.

fancy pigeon · 26-04-2021 3:59pm

FrankC21 wrote: »

Ive watched videos and read articles I understand that there's a higher possibility that I won't gain any HP, But i really feel it actually improved a bit on the motorway it got a bit of kick when i get into higher rpm, and the honda engine sound is class like this is the first time I tried this sort of stuff.

And more cold air = more power, but Again you will most likely point out that engine bay air gets hotter.

Placebo

Before and after on the dyno is the only proven way. Out of the box kits are usually **** and draw in hot air

Picture of the setup would help clear this all up

Dale Parish · 26-04-2021 5:58pm

Upgraded brake lines to braided, master cyl to E65 7 series one, replaced degrading TPS sensor and cleaned up the plenum in the M5 with engine degreaser.

Started removing the engine also this weekend on my new-to-me E34 ahead of the engine overhaul

vintagevrs · 26-04-2021 6:51pm

Nice one, I watched this recently and presume you did too!

https://youtu.be/R47XW7jFAT4

FrankC21 · 26-04-2021 9:42pm

Here are the photos hopefully it will help.

As you can see from the photos I managed to close the small pipe hole using cable ties and rubber screw, I have no idea what to attach it to.

Dale Parish · 26-04-2021 10:06pm

vintagevrs wrote: »

Nice one, I watched this recently and presume you did too!

https://youtu.be/R47XW7jFAT4

Yeah haha I did! I've been following the thread on M5board for a while now so that was really my final motivation to just get it done

Kenny Logins · 27-04-2021 11:09am

vintagevrs wrote: »

Nice one, I watched this recently and presume you did too!

https://youtu.be/R47XW7jFAT4

I knew what channel this was before clicking the link.

MetzgerMeister · 27-04-2021 11:40am

I LOVE M539Restorations. Very entertaining and detailed.

advertsfox · 27-04-2021 11:59am

The DS3 gave me its first problem yesterday. Took it for a long drive yesterday (first in ages), put the AC on max because it was sweating out - tried turn it down after a while to hear the radio and was stuck on level 5. Hmmm, quick off / on of the car, still blasting away - except now at a warm temp so I was sweating again

Turns out to be a motor blower fan resistor which sits deep behind the dashboard (common issue). Handy enough to take out if you have twig arms... which I dont! New one arriving off Amazon tomorrow for just €21 should sort it.

FrankC21 · 28-04-2021 4:23pm

Hi,

So do I take out the little breather filter out and connect back to intake pipe or leave as it is.

MrCostington · 04-05-2021 8:26am

The wipers stopped working on my A4, it was one of the pivot shafts that the blade attached to, was seized solid. Even after using penetrating oil overnight I could hardly move it with a vice grips - the motor must be really strong to have moved it at all. Was a nightmare getting the assembly in and out, but managed to take apart and grease.

blade1 · 05-05-2021 9:26am

Just an oil/filter change.
First time not being done by lexus.
Nice to see you get a good level of butchery from the main dealer for your money.
What were they at this with?
Also, torqued to twice the spec.

BlakeS94 · 05-05-2021 9:51am

blade1 wrote: »

Just an oil/filter change.
First time not being done by lexus.
Nice to see you get a good level of butchery from the main dealer for your money.
What were they at this with?
Also, torqued to twice the spec.

It probably wasn't torqued, it was ugga dugga'd

CianRyan · 05-05-2021 12:09pm

I'd say they used that bottom part to tighten the entire filter housing. Even toyota dealers rarely have the right tool for the job.
That's mashed though, should really have been replaced.

blade1 · 05-05-2021 1:02pm

CianRyan wrote: »

I'd say they used that bottom part to tighten the entire filter housing. Even toyota dealers rarely have the right tool for the job.
That's mashed though, should really have been replaced.

All it is is a 3/8" drive size.
Not exactly a specialist tool.
They would have needed to use the special tool to take off the filter,can't see why they wouldn't use it to put it back on.

CianRyan · 05-05-2021 3:29pm

blade1 wrote: »

All it is is a 3/8" drive size.
Not exactly a specialist tool.
They would have needed to use the special tool to take off the filter,can't see why they wouldn't use it to put it back on.

Not for that, that little cap is to drain the filter before removing it, correct?
The filter housing itself is the aluminum cup that has an awkward side?

At least that's the case on every other Toyota/ Lexus of that vintage I've worked on.

blade1 · 05-05-2021 3:32pm

CianRyan wrote: »

Not for that, that little cap is to drain the filter before removing it, correct?
The filter housing itself is the aluminum cup that has an awkward side?

At least that's the case on every other Toyota/ Lexus of that vintage I've worked on.

Yes correct.
I opened the cap with an extension bar from my socket set.
No need for anything on the end of it.

advertsfox · 07-05-2021 8:34pm

advertsfox wrote: »

The DS3 gave me its first problem yesterday. Took it for a long drive yesterday (first in ages), put the AC on max because it was sweating out - tried turn it down after a while to hear the radio and was stuck on level 5. Hmmm, quick off / on of the car, still blasting away - except now at a warm temp so I was sweating again

Turns out to be a motor blower fan resistor which sits deep behind the dashboard (common issue). Handy enough to take out if you have twig arms... which I dont! New one arriving off Amazon tomorrow for just €21 should sort it.

Issue fixed, at last. Buy cheap, buy twice. The Amazon version was a dud so I ended up buying a proper version from Mister Auto for €60 that arrived today.

Tails142 · 08-05-2021 11:02am

Yeah what is the story with these resistors, the two bmw's I've owned and now a fiesta have all had this issue and I've found the cheap ebay resistors only last a few months before blowing, I'd say between those three cars I've replaced about 6 of them, other cars I've owned for years no bother at all. I wonder why they're so unreliable sometimes.

joujoujou · 10-05-2021 9:17am

Spent the whole day struggling to find a problem with ms jou's ASX.

The problem - RH front parking light not working intermittently.

Bulb replaced - nope, problem still there.

Checked ALL fuses - all good.

Noticed that RHS rear parking light also acts silly - it won't shine as bright as it should, just glows, barely noticeable. It has built-in LED light in there, not repairable. If faulty, the entire light cluster has to be replaced. Took both LHS and RHS out and swapped - LHS plugged to RHS wire glows, while RHS plugged on the left - shines perfectly. So that's not the cluster I have a problem with. Cleaned all the connectors - no change.

At that stage I just made myself a break, put everything back in and went to the internet with a hope to find a solution (there is none in the manual).

The solution: FOUND IT! Took me 5 minutes. Russian and Polish forums both mention that on that very circuit there's another bulb that needs to be checked - in the glovebox! :eek:

I hope whoever designed that and did not mention the consequences in the manual will burn in hell!

Bulb replaced - problem solved! Just to add - LED bulb will work, but intermittent parking lights behaviour will stay - it MUST be ordinary W1.2W bulb in the glovebox to get things sorted.

punisher5112 · 10-05-2021 9:20am

joujoujou wrote: »

Spent the whole day struggling to find a problem with ms jou's ASX.

The problem - RH front parking light not working intermittently.

Bulb replaced - nope, problem still there.

Checked ALL fuses - all good.

Noticed that RHS rear parking light also acts silly - it won't shine as bright as it should, just glows, barely noticeable. It has built-in LED light in there, not repairable. If faulty, the entire light cluster has to be replaced. Took both LHS and RHS out and swapped - LHS plugged to RHS wire glows, while RHS plugged on the left - shines perfectly. So that's not the cluster I have a problem with. Cleaned all the connectors - no change.

At that stage I just made myself a break, put everything back in and went to the internet with a hope to find a solution (there is none in the manual).

The solution: FOUND IT! Took me 5 minutes. Russian and Polish forums both mention that on that very circuit there's another bulb that needs to be checked - in the glovebox! :eek:

I hope whoever designed that and did not mention the consequences in the manual will burn in hell!

Bulb replaced - problem solved! Just to add - LED bulb will work, but intermittent parking lights behaviour will stay - it MUST be ordinary W1.2W bulb in the glovebox to get things sorted.

Wow, what moron designed that.

crasy dash · 10-05-2021 9:29am

joujoujou wrote: »

Spent the whole day struggling to find a problem with ms jou's ASX.

The problem - RH front parking light not working intermittently.

Bulb replaced - nope, problem still there.

Checked ALL fuses - all good.

Noticed that RHS rear parking light also acts silly - it won't shine as bright as it should, just glows, barely noticeable. It has built-in LED light in there, not repairable. If faulty, the entire light cluster has to be replaced. Took both LHS and RHS out and swapped - LHS plugged to RHS wire glows, while RHS plugged on the left - shines perfectly. So that's not the cluster I have a problem with. Cleaned all the connectors - no change.

At that stage I just made myself a break, put everything back in and went to the internet with a hope to find a solution (there is none in the manual).

The solution: FOUND IT! Took me 5 minutes. Russian and Polish forums both mention that on that very circuit there's another bulb that needs to be checked - in the glovebox! :eek:

I hope whoever designed that and did not mention the consequences in the manual will burn in hell!

Bulb replaced - problem solved! Just to add - LED bulb will work, but intermittent parking lights behaviour will stay - it MUST be ordinary W1.2W bulb in the glovebox to get things sorted.

That's some result what a cluster feck of a design for a circuit though.
Have to give credit to the polish and Russian lads they are unreal at the depth the go into when searching for a fault nothing ever seems to beat them.

advertsfox · 11-05-2021 8:11am

crasy dash wrote: »

That's some result what a cluster feck of a design for a circuit though.
Have to give credit to the polish and Russian lads they are unreal at the depth the go into when searching for a fault nothing ever seems to beat them.

Russians... great lunch of lads

Can you use add a resistor at this point so you can keep the white LED light in the glove box instead of the candle?

joujoujou · 11-05-2021 8:24am

advertsfox wrote: »

[...]

Can you use add a resistor at this point so you can keep the white LED light in the glove box instead of the candle?

If it was my car, I would add separate circuit exclusively for the LED and keep the bulb on original circuit just to avoid trouble. But it's missus' car and she says she doesn't really need a light in there at all, so my job is done.

fancy pigeon · 11-05-2021 4:38pm

A common problem with certain vintage of Volvo... The ETM, or Electronic Throttle Module

Why this is a problem

You may have seen this piece of sh*t throttle before on wheeler dealers, the Maserati 3200GT episode

And of course, my S60 has this piece of scrap installed! And it showed signs of failing :rolleyes:

So on Saturday I decided to repair it. Not a nice process, I will put pictures up at a later date when I have the time, but the process is outlined here

Cut a long story short did it work? Did it f*ck. It only dawned on me when I was on the way to the garage I got a completely different error to the usual "Reduced Performance" message and the car was fairly difficult to drive from then on; the ETM had fully crapped itself. 3 hours and a new Sacer unit down the toilet!

I've ordered a replacement and I'm waiting patiently for it. I'll get pictures of it's installation, I may have to code it into the car with Vida, which I have and have working very well

Magnetti Marelli are useless f*ckwits who couldn't make chewing gum stick to a seat; they are dead to me. Useless shower of incompetent c*nts :rolleyes:

Cass · 12-05-2021 12:01am

Easiest job in the world today. Bonnet release handle was slack and the handle was coming up too far to the point i was nervous it was break or break the cable.

Quick check on the interweb, and i found out by loosening one nut, pulling the armoured cable back tight (it slackens/slides forward over years with use), and tightening the nut again its fixed. Bonnet up and job done. Took about 3 minutes.

I love these little jobs that takes minutes and fix a niggle.

BlakeS94 · 12-05-2021 11:20am

Cass wrote: »

Easiest job in the world today. Bonnet release handle was slack and the handle was coming up too far to the point i was nervous it was break or break the cable.

Quick check on the interweb, and i found out by loosening one nut, pulling the armoured cable back tight (it slackens/slides forward over years with use), and tightening the nut again its fixed. Bonnet up and job done. Took about 3 minutes.

I love these little jobs that takes minutes and fix a niggle.

Great confidence boost those jobs, recently fixed a car horn that was just a loose connection, front undertray off, sprayed some contact cleaner on the pins, and a bit of trickery with electrical tape and cable ties, took less than 10mins and cost me €0

CianRyan · 12-05-2021 12:26pm

The amount of times I've done those jobs and some poor sod has been charged €120 and a free coffee is tragic.
I little effort goes a long way!

PsychoPete · 12-05-2021 12:54pm

CianRyan wrote: »

The amount of times I've done those jobs and some poor sod has been charged €120 and a free coffee is tragic.
I little effort goes a long way!

Sometimes customers could come into the workshop with a problem and if it was a job like that, I'd just do it in 5 minutes and just sent them in their way. The service manger would tell them we need the car for an hour and charge them an hours labour for the privilege

CianRyan · 12-05-2021 1:02pm

PsychoPete wrote: »

Sometimes customers could come into the workshop with a problem and if it was a job like that, I'd just do it in 5 minutes and just sent them in their way. The service manger would tell them we need the car for an hour and charge them an hours labour for the privilege

It's so bad, or the old half hour labour for putting air in their tyres. Ugh.

PsychoPete · 12-05-2021 1:05pm

CianRyan wrote: »

It's so bad, or the old half hour labour for putting air in their tyres. Ugh.

I hated seeing it, especially when it was regular customers

Toyotafanboi · 12-05-2021 10:58pm

PsychoPete wrote: »

Sometimes customers could come into the workshop with a problem and if it was a job like that, I'd just do it in 5 minutes and just sent them in their way. The service manger would tell them we need the car for an hour and charge them an hours labour for the privilege

Doing stuff for free wont pay your wages though. "It's a business, not a charity".

I'm all for doing odd jobs for good customers FOC but generally it's nice to see everything possible covered with a fair price. Charging for stuff gives it value to the customer too.

CR 7 · 13-05-2021 10:06am

I posted a few weeks ago about an intermittent issue with one of the rear indicators, and eventually found the issue was a pin on the bulb holder that was close to failure and eventually snapped off while I was trying to figure out the issue. You can just about see the difference below, the lower photos shows the pin sticking out to contact the side of the bulb, where it's missing on the first photo.

On to eBay and €25 and several weeks later a replacement set of wiring for the rear tail light arrived from the slow boat from Lithuania. From 15 to 17 Ford switched to using LED brake lights, before releasing the new fiesta model, and I couldn't source the wiring for that specific tail light from any breaker in Ireland. But I didn't need to do much driving in the meantime so I could wait.

2 minutes to take off the tail light, 5 minutes to get the wiring swapped and 2 minutes to refit and test that all is now working correctly again!

Cass · 13-05-2021 9:11pm

Changed the N/S mirror on the Titanium X Sport today. Whomever was at it before (obviously damaged and replaced) use a standard Mondeo wing mirror which only has electric movement function however the TXS should have power folding, electric, heated with puddle light wing mirrors.

Ford wanted €250 for it new but there is a great second market in the UK. Got one that was guaranteed and sent over, including customs/vat for €75. Fitted it today and the only issue with it was the backing cover. The one I bought was green, mine is black. Didn't care as I just assumed i'd change over the backing covers.

Not so.

Ford in their infinite wisdom decided those driving a TXS cannot buy cheaper parts so while the backing cover is the same shape the internal clips are not only different, but in the different locations within the backing cover meaning it will never fit the proper wing mirror. Could be down to the folding motor, etc. but i'm just blaming Ford for being awkward, because.............

So a 15 minute job turned into a two hour one as i sanded, primed and painted the cover from green to black.

It was not close to my best work, as my Grandfather would say "not bad a for a country job", and fitted it. Mirror folds, moves with switch, heats, lights up (puddle light) and does everything it should. Delighted.

I'll take the covers off both mirrors in the near future and do a proper job as all i had were spray cans, but i'll go at them again with the air line an spray gun with top coat + hardener when the time is there.

Also managed to bag an inner wheel arch liner as the rear left (n/s) had a piece tore out of it. Nobody would notice it bar me but i wanted it right.

joujoujou · 14-05-2021 9:36pm

Just small, visual thingy this time. Ms jou and myself recently discussed about yellow(ish) colour in her car's headlight clusters:

I ordered what's needed and mr postman brought the stuff today. Old vs new:

10 minutes later and the job's done:

wotzgoingon · 14-05-2021 9:52pm

Yellowish. The before looked mint. One of my headlights has faded really bad. On the inside too so no sanding will work. It was a bit faded even when I bought the car 4 years ago but has gotten pretty bad recently. The other side was replaced at some stage before I owned it so it's still in great condition.

colm_mcm · 14-05-2021 10:42pm

Scabby centre caps

Strip off the old metal overlays

Stick on Chinese replacements that look to be better made than the Skoda ones

fancy pigeon · 19-05-2021 9:32am

fancy pigeon wrote: »

I've ordered a replacement and I'm waiting patiently for it...

Well good news for me, I have the car up and running again

In it's broken state the car would only rev up to 2.5k rpm, idle at 1.5k and was fairly vague with the throttle input if you're wondering what happens when it fails completely. Normally you get a lumpy idle, lumpy running at a cruising rpm, poor throttle response on a cold startup. When it gets bad it sends the car into limp mode (which turning it off and on again will temporarily fix) and eventually in my case it threw an EML and was fairly spluttery. This last part happened approx half a mile from the garage! :rolleyes:

Here's some pictures of the failed ETM repair. I discovered afterwards the board inside had sh*t it's pants, conveniently when on my way to perform the repair. I'll remove the Sacer unit (contactless TPS) another time. I later smashed the old TPS to pieces

Continuing on, the (very) bad tempered me bought a Chinese rebuilt unit later that evening during an NCT retest, after sickening everyone's hole with my giving out about Magnetti Marelli. Then, a few days later, a nice fellow in the UK on arsebook offered me a recon Volvo unit and I bought it too!

They both arrived yesterday morning. Both with a contactless TPS

So I decided to fit the recon unit. Basic clean up with double TT. 10 minutes to remove the old unit, even with my... Custom pipework. You hear of morons removing the fan, working under the car and other f*ckholery not needed for this job

For a turbo car its:

Disconnect the battery
2 hose clamps for the turbo pipe
Lower air duct for the air box
2 Vacuum lines
4 10mm bolts
And if it's never been removed before, the clamp at the starter has to be removed for the cable to be freed

I'd also recommend 1/4 drive sockets as room is at a premium here

Plug in for the initialization process, not a single fault related to the ETM

Yes, that's my personal laptop. It's dual OS (Win 7 strictly for diag) and is also backed up with SPX (an official version, not cracked) if you're worried about Win 7 being a security breach :P

Put the whole lot back together and... Car isn't running right. Huge induction warble, turbo going bananas. Pull the whole lot off again. Dopey hole here had installed the unit on backwards!

Back on again the right way and all plumbed up. Went for a test drive. No sloppy acceleration! No lumpy idle! No dipping below 750 rpm! It's 100% fixed

Smiles the whole time and that's what matters at the back of it all :cool: now I can continue to address more issues on the car and buy a few extras for it

spiggotpaddy · 21-05-2021 4:51pm

@fancy pigeon

Your next order?

mk7r · 21-05-2021 5:25pm

fancy pigeon wrote: »

Plug in for the initialization process, not a single fault related to the ETM

Yes, that's my personal laptop. It's dual OS (Win 7 strictly for diag) and is also backed up with SPX (an official version, not cracked) if you're worried about Win 7 being a security breach :P

Put the whole lot back together and... Car isn't running right. Huge induction warble, turbo going bananas. Pull the whole lot off again. Dopey hole here had installed the unit on backwards!

Back on again the right way and all plumbed up. Went for a test drive. No sloppy acceleration! No lumpy idle! No dipping below 750 rpm! It's 100% fixed

Smiles the whole time and that's what matters at the back of it all :cool: now I can continue to address more issues on the car and buy a few extras for it

I have a no fault codes allowed in any module for my cars, that gives me serious anxiety :pac:

fancy pigeon · 21-05-2021 8:41pm

Don't worry lads I'm not in something French anymore, panic over

Speaking of, one less error thrown up this evening, replaced the relays and the rear left works, looks like I'll have to change the rear right lock when I get a chance

Also did some trickery with the dice unit while I had it out

wotzgoingon · 21-05-2021 8:58pm

mk7r wrote: »

I have a no fault codes allowed in any module for my cars, that gives me serious anxiety :pac:

I don't even know if my car has errors as it doesn't have such a system. Jap 90's car. I remember my BMW e39 had a few errors when hooked up to scan tool but it ran and drove perfect even with the errors so....

jumbone · 24-05-2021 10:30am

So I didn't do something to my car today but I want to...

I posted a thread the other day about my crappy wheelnuts and got no responses.

I just really need someone to tell me everything will be ok with the ones i've linked or recommend me a reputable supplier that selsl nuts without the OEM issue.

Any ideas?

jumbone wrote: »

I have a volvo c30 and 4 of my wheel nuts have lost their covers

They look like this (not my photo)

There is meant to be a thin metal cover pressed over these (part of the nut, you don't remove it when removing wheel)

Wheel is totally secure but looks crap especially since 4/5 are gone on one wheel (only the locknut is ok).

Given that I don't think anyone is about to nick my 10 year old stock alloys, I think it might be a good shout to get rid of the locknuts entirely which would leave me needing 8/20 nuts.

So obviously I now want to replace all 20 so they match and i don't risk damaging one when stuck on the side of the road

I was in a tyre centre the other day and they didn't stock wheel nuts, the fitter actually advised me to get them on eBay which surprised me a little!

I have found these:

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363335956505

which state:

Seems like these are ideal and price is fine (I live in NI so no worries about shipping/tariffs) but I just have a slight apprehension about replacing all my wheel nuts with ones from eBay - having visions of all my wheels falling off as I go around a corner!

Can anyone reassure me that these will be fine or recommend a more reputable alternative?
OEM replacements (PN - 31200241) are about £4 each and obviously going to be susceptible to the same issue as the ones I have so a solid nut is preferred!

I'm sure that there is an equivalent ford part number as the c30 is a cousin of a focus, and i'm sure the ford aftermarket has come up with a well regarded alternative - I just cant seem to find it!

joujoujou · 24-05-2021 2:03pm

It's now second year I use ebay sourced nuts of the very same spec as you linked to (not the same seller though) and I'm still alive, no wheel lost, no nut loosened either.

Just buy and enjoy!

Alternatively, if second hand is an option, search scrapyards for older type Carina/Avensis domed and chromed nuts designated for steel rims. Very same spec, apart from outer size (they require 21mm socket).

Ubbquittious · 24-05-2021 8:49pm

Talk of an awkward kunt of a thing to get off. 2 impact sockets destroyed and a 11mm drill bit much shortened and tis still hanging on by a thread

mk7r · 24-05-2021 10:04pm

Ubbquittious wrote: »

Talk of an awkward kunt of a thing to get off. 2 impact sockets destroyed and a 11mm drill bit much shortened and tis still hanging on by a thread

Peugeot rear beam?

Ubbquittious · 24-05-2021 10:12pm

mk7r wrote: »

Peugeot rear beam?

Yep

mk7r · 24-05-2021 10:14pm

Ubbquittious wrote: »

Yep

Hope you have a new one to go on, second hand arent worth the time it takes to fit them

Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

Comments

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