Today I did some detailing...

Gumbo · 05-03-2021 10:27pm

SuprSi wrote: »

OK cool, thanks for the advice. It'll make it easier the next time. I had another look at the dirt on the car and it's very fine, so the Sahara sand suggestion looks like a good call. It should come off easily too.

I’d say it will too.
Try wash it down with your washer tomorrow and then spray the detailer on it as a drying aid. It will come up like new again.

Forensic Detailing Channel does very good break downs of products and how to apply them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxYtezmstI0

Truckermal · 07-03-2021 10:00pm

Trying to keep on top of keeping the Car well so quick machine polish followed by a coating of C2V3 to keep the shine up!

duffman3833 · 08-03-2021 12:04pm

got Lidl's new pressure washer over the weekend for €99 and i have to say it did a fantastic job.
Along with Bilt Hamber snow foam and shampoo, the car turned out nice and shiny.
Does anyone have recommendation for removing tar from bottom of car??
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punisher5112 · 08-03-2021 12:45pm

duffman3833 wrote: »

got Lidl's new pressure washer over the weekend for €99 and i have to say it did a fantastic job.
Along with Bilt Hamber snow foam and shampoo, the car turned out nice and shiny.
Does anyone have recommendation for removing tar from bottom of car??

Tar X if you can get it, spray on, do not rub, jet off repeat if necessary.

Gumbo · 09-03-2021 2:23pm

Truckermal wrote: »

Trying to keep on top of keeping the Car well so quick machine polish followed by a coating of C2V3 to keep the shine up!

The C2V3 is an excellent product and can be applied every other month as part of your maintenance for the ceramic range too, so it’s supposed to be very good. Have you noticed how long you get out of it as a stand-alone product?

Truckermal · 12-03-2021 10:20am

It normally lasts months but I use a lot of it! I even use it on the windows of the House to keep them clean!

Gumbo · 13-03-2021 1:48am

Truckermal wrote: »

It normally lasts months but I use a lot of it! I even use it on the windows of the House to keep them clean!

I done the wife’s car with the G1 glass coating last week and I said my next batch, I’m gonna do the house windows too

Truckermal · 13-03-2021 7:00pm

Gumbo wrote: »

I done the wife’s car with the G1 glass coating last week and I said my next batch, I’m gonna do the house windows too

I cleaned mine first with Cleaner Car Glass cleaner from D&D Detailing... It's absolutely amazing and for Windows that looked clean I took some amount of dirt off them!

Gumbo · 14-03-2021 11:56am

Truckermal wrote: »

I cleaned mine first with Cleaner Car Glass cleaner from D&D Detailing... It's absolutely amazing and for Windows that looked clean I took some amount of dirt off them!

Agree. I used G4 to polish the glass first too.

Cass · 16-03-2021 11:34pm

Got a new, to me, car the other day. The bodywork is in good condition with no scratches, dents or even stone chips, but needs a serious paint correction. Lots of swirls and signs of poor washing.

However the car was not well looked after by the last owner (i knew and spoke to the previous/first owner). It was not abused just used as a car. The inside is very dirty and will receive a thorough detailing in the coming days but i decided to start on the outside.

I spent 6 hours de-taring, de-ironing, and getting the wheels back to their original colour from the lovely rust brown they were. :rolleyes:

Never got picture of the car before but below is a picture of the car during the final contact wash and rinse.

I fixed a few small jobs today and tomorrow is quick wash, clay barring, paint correction and all going well polish.

MetzgerMeister · 18-03-2021 10:59am

Polish after a paint correction is a waste of time Cass. A paint correction is a polish so you're gaining nothing. If I were you I would do the paint correction, remove polish residue with panel wipe and then apply a layer of something like Gtechniq C2V3.

I would advise you do it a panel at a time.

Cass · 18-03-2021 12:04pm

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Polish after a paint correction is a waste of time Cass. A paint correction is a polish so you're gaining nothing.

Oh. I got the terminology/process wrong so. I thought a paint correction was just the cutting back to remove swirls and light scratches. Suppose the polish won't do any harm, but is, as you said, a redundancy.

Speaking of which what would you recommend? I only have Menzerna medium cut. It done a decent job but did not fully remove it. It looks way better but i can see "residual" swirls under light when i check. Do i go heavier cut or keep using the medium and working it down "layer by layer" so as to avoid potential damage by going to strong, first time?

If I were you I would do the paint correction, remove polish residue with panel wipe and then apply a layer of something like Gtechniq C2V3.

Thanks for the advice.

The G4 C2V3. I done a google search as i've never seen it before. Its not ceramic coating, sure its not? I have ceramic coating here, but never had the nerve to try and use it. Where i live, even in my garage is not the cleanest place. Its rural and between farming machinery and a local small quarry there is perpetual dust. Funny thing is i went at the car yesterday as it would be quite being Patrick's day and all but the dust, while not as severe, was heavy outside the garage.

I would advise you do it a panel at a time.

Good advice again. Resist the urge to "belt on" and try cover multiple panels and end up messing it up myself.

I didn't get the car completely done yesterday. As i'm not completely satisfied with the results can you give a suggestion or process to remove the residue of the Menzerna so i can start fresh and also should i go for heavier cut, a different product, or just go once again with what i have?

Thanks in advance and apologies for all the questions.

Gumbo · 18-03-2021 12:55pm

Cass wrote: »

Oh. I got the terminology/process wrong so. I thought a paint correction was just the cutting back to remove swirls and light scratches. Suppose the polish won't do any harm, but is, as you said, a redundancy.

Speaking of which what would you recommend? I only have Menzerna medium cut. It done a decent job but did not fully remove it. It looks way better but i can see "residual" swirls under light when i check. Do i go heavier cut or keep using the medium and working it down "layer by layer" so as to avoid potential damage by going to strong, first time?

Thanks for the advice.

The G4 C2V3. I done a google search as i've never seen it before. Its not ceramic coating, sure its not? I have ceramic coating here, but never had the nerve to try and use it. Where i live, even in my garage is not the cleanest place. Its rural and between farming machinery and a local small quarry there is perpetual dust. Funny thing is i went at the car yesterday as it would be quite being Patrick's day and all but the dust, while not as severe, was heavy outside the garage.

Good advice again. Resist the urge to "belt on" and try cover multiple panels and end up messing it up myself.

I didn't get the car completely done yesterday. As i'm not completely satisfied with the results can you give a suggestion or process to remove the residue of the Menzerna so i can start fresh and also should i go for heavier cut, a different product, or just go once again with what i have?

Thanks in advance and apologies for all the questions.

C2V3 is not a ceramic as you mention. It’s a top coat/sealant/stand alone coating.

You mention that you have a ceramic there, but have to got the indoor covered space to apply it and let it cure for the 12/24/48 hours as required?

Judging by the machinery and dust comments, I would say no so may be risky to apply there.

Are you planning a one step polish or 2/3 stage?

MetzgerMeister · 18-03-2021 1:06pm

Cass wrote: »

Oh. I got the terminology/process wrong so. I thought a paint correction was just the cutting back to remove swirls and light scratches. Suppose the polish won't do any harm, but is, as you said, a redundancy.

That's exactly what a paint correction is but it works by polishing the paint to remove the layer of damaged lacquer. The "polish" is only a redundancy if it's not by way of refining/jewelling the paint after correction. Is this what you mean by polish?

Cass wrote: »

Speaking of which what would you recommend? I only have Menzerna medium cut. It done a decent job but did not fully remove it. It looks way better but i can see "residual" swirls under light when i check. Do i go heavier cut or keep using the medium and working it down "layer by layer" so as to avoid potential damage by going to strong, first time?

I use Scholl S3 or Scholl S20 Black for cutting and Menzerna 3000 for refining. The medium cut is fine but you won't get 100% results after one polish. For instance, I spent from 10 am until 6pm yesterday correcting and finishing a wheel arch and passenger door on my own car.

I do a cut, remove the polish, inspect with a torch, go over any scratches I missed and do this until the panel is perfect. Down the line I will be applying 2 coatings to it so at that stage I will be giving the whole car another light cut and a refining cut before application. This way I have all the hard work done now.

Cass wrote: »

The G4 C2V3. I done a google search as i've never seen it before. Its not ceramic coating, sure its not? I have ceramic coating here, but never had the nerve to try and use it. Where i live, even in my garage is not the cleanest place. Its rural and between farming machinery and a local small quarry there is perpetual dust. Funny thing is i went at the car yesterday as it would be quite being Patrick's day and all but the dust, while not as severe, was heavy outside the garage.

No, C2V3 isn't a ceramic coating as such. It's a very good "ceramic" sealant with good longevity. the word "ceramic" isn't just for a coating but it's now being applied to anything with si02 in it.

What ceramic coating do you have?

Cass wrote: »

Good advice again. Resist the urge to "belt on" and try cover multiple panels and end up messing it up myself.

I didn't get the car completely done yesterday. As i'm not completely satisfied with the results can you give a suggestion or process to remove the residue of the Menzerna so i can start fresh and also should i go for heavier cut, a different product, or just go once again with what i have?

Not even messing it up but when you work panel by panel you take your time to do a proper job and ensure that the panel is as good as you'll get it before moving on. Yes it will take longer but in the end it's worth it.

There's no point in trying to correct a car in a day because you'll put in all the work and then when you're finished you'll see scratches you missed as has happened in your case. Correcting a car is a lot of work so make it worth while by focusing on one panel at a time.

Cass · 18-03-2021 1:18pm

Gumbo wrote: »

C2V3 is not a ceramic as you mention. It’s a top coat/sealant/stand alone coating.

Thanks for clearing it up. It says so on the site i checked, but wanted to be sure.

You mention that you have a ceramic there, but have to got the indoor covered space to apply it and let it cure for the 12/24/48 hours as required?

Judging by the machinery and dust comments, I would say no so may be risky to apply there.

I've had the coating for a year now but as you said with the dust levels its just not doable. Even if i sealed the garage with plastic liner i wouldn't be confident of a "sealed" or "clean" environment so not taking that chance.

Are you planning a one step polish or 2/3 stage?

2 stage. The bodywork is not bad enough to warrant a 3 stage. I think my issues arise from not having the proper cutting compound. It works but is more suited to light work and on first glance i thought the body work was not too bad, and in fairness nothing is through the top coat let alone into the paint, but i could do with something a little more aggressive than what i have.

I'll solve that today with a trip to the local supplier, hence the recommendation request.

Cass · 18-03-2021 1:33pm

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Is this what you mean by polish?

Yes. The "shiney"

finish after the paint correction.

I use Scholl S3 or Scholl S20 Black for cutting and Menzerna 3000 for refining. The medium cut is fine but you won't get 100% results after one polish.

Thanks for that.

I spent months of constant washing and correction with my old car to get the finish i have on it now. I knew going into it that it wouldn't be a one day cure so i need to calm my heels and realise it took longer with my old car so not to expect miracles.

For instance, I spent from 10 am until 6pm yesterday correcting and finishing a wheel arch and passenger door on my own car.

I spent about 90 minutes or a little more on the bonnet alone. I have penty of products but realised i only have one cutting product. So i need to stock up on that end. The bonnet turned out well, but not good. IOW once i had half it done i stopped to compare to the other side and there was a noticeable difference but under alight inspection i could see subtle swirls.

So i'll take your advice and realise its a marathon, not a sprint.

I do a cut, remove the polish, inspect with a torch, go over any scratches I missed and do this until the panel is perfect. Down the line I will be applying 2 coatings to it so at that stage I will be giving the whole car another light cut and a refining cut before application. This way I have all the hard work done now.

I think where i fall down is my experience over knowledge. I know the processes, its the ability that lacks. Hence the reason i tend to go slower which requires continuous applications. IOW i'd rather go lightly and have to do it a few times that "jump in" and make it worse.

No, C2V3 isn't a ceramic coating as such. It's a very good "ceramic" sealant with good longevity. the word "ceramic" isn't just for a coating but it's now being applied to anything with si02 in it.

And what is the curing time, if any. While its not ceramic does it require the same curing time as say proper sealant. While my area is not great in terms of dust keeping the car secure of dust for an hour or two may be possible, but as said above not for a half day and definitely not longer.

What ceramic coating do you have?

C Quartz. Was bought for me, but never used it. Is it any good?

There's no point in trying to correct a car in a day because you'll put in all the work and then when you're finished you'll see scratches you missed as has happened in your case. Correcting a car is a lot of work so make it worth while by focusing on one panel at a time.

Good advice, again.

I apologise for all questions. As said above i have the process just not the technique down and i'm being overly cautious to avoid making a balls of things. I'm essentially a novice and if it came to something like ceramic coating i think i'd leave it to a professional, but the paint correction is something i feel i can tackle.

Thanks again for the help and advice.

MetzgerMeister · 18-03-2021 1:47pm

The shiny finish after cutting is indeed a polish but is moreso referred to as the refining stage to improve the gloss. For this stage I use the Menzerna 3000 and a Shinemate orange or red pad.

What I do for a bonnet is section it into 4 parts. This way you can see how well your method/chosen products and pads are doing and whether to swap to another if you need a more aggressive approach. Once you get this sorted you'll be on the best path to doing the job efficiently.

Paint correction takes a lot of experience and trying different combinations of pads and polish etc. before you'll get it right. We've all been there so don't worry about it, just take your time to see what works best for you. You're 100% right to not jump in and make a balls of it.

C2V3 is literally spray on, spread with a cloth and buff with a clean, dry cloth. It's as simple as that. No cure time as you'd have with the likes of Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light/EXO or C-Quartz. The reason for this is because C2V3 sits on top of the paint but Crystal Serum/EXO and C-Quartz chemically bond to the paint and become the sacrificial top layer of the paint. I haven't used CQaurtz myself but reports are good on it.

Don't apologise for asking questions - that's what this forum is for

vintagevrs · 20-03-2021 7:01pm

Is applying collinite 845 very old fashioned now.

I washed, clayed, machine polished and then applied 845 today. It used to be well regarded but everything now seems to silica based.

Should I buy some of the stuff mentioned above?

The car was caked in tar and ****e, would some of these coating help prevent that.

Here's how it came out today.....

punisher5112 · 20-03-2021 7:52pm

The helper in the car looks delighted....

PsychoPete · 20-03-2021 8:30pm

Some people still like applying wax but theres a lot of spray products out there that have better gloss,durability etc and are easier to apply

vintagevrs · 20-03-2021 9:23pm

PsychoPete wrote: »

Some people still like applying wax but theres a lot of spray products out there that have better gloss,durability etc and are easier to apply

Yeah there's a good car wash beside me and they washed the car a few weeks ago. Yer man asked did I want the super extra delux special wash with extra wax etc so I was like yeah grand.

He did spray on a product near the end and the water was noticeably beading for days after. A whole lot less hassle than the wax I was using today. It's a nightmare esp in the cooler weather.

I might look into something a bit easier. Sometimes I think a lot of this stuff is marketing over substance but does look like things have moved on.

Gumbo · 21-03-2021 9:49am

vintagevrs wrote: »

Is applying collinite 845 very old fashioned now.

I washed, clayed, machine polished and then applied 845 today. It used to be well regarded but everything now seems to silica based.

Should I buy some of the stuff mentioned above?

The car was caked in tar and ****e, would some of these coating help prevent that.

Here's how it came out today.....

My opinion is not that they are old fashioned, but old technology.
Some of the spray on sealants give similar gloss and similar length of protection or hydrophobic properties.

Some people want the quicker process.
Si02 technology and all nano costings have really taken off because of the ability to bond to the clear cost and provide unrivalled durability.

I wouldn’t say dump what you have and go out and buy the new products, more so, use what you have and when that’s gone re-evaluate what products are available to achieve the same result.

Also, some people enjoy the process of waxing.

MetzgerMeister · 22-03-2021 11:09am

I personally haven't applied a wax in years. The benefits of products like C2V3, CarPro Reload etc. are just too numerous to bother with wax any more. I never liked applying, waiting, buffing wax as it took up too much time. I often had to time it when I had 2 cars to get through in a day and it was just a PITA. When you consider that with a spray-on sealant it's an eighth of the effort to get a more durable finish it's a no brainer.

Nothing will stop tar getting on the car apart from not driving it or only driving it on grass. No matter what coating you have, tar will find its way on. All you can do is make it easier to remove.

duffman3833 · 22-03-2021 1:44pm

I got some new rims for the car and started to detail them. I struggled with getting a lot of the brake dust of one wheel. I was using auto wheel Bilt Hamber.
Any other suggestions to get it off?

MetzgerMeister · 22-03-2021 1:47pm

That must be incredibly well baked on if AutoWheel isn't shifting it. Maybe try Korrosol or Gtechniq W6.

Having said that, I think claying is the only way you're going to move it. Use LOTS of lubricant.

Foxhole Norman · 22-03-2021 1:47pm

duffman3833 wrote: »

I got some new rims for the car and started to detail them. I struggled with getting a lot of the brake dust of one wheel. I was using auto wheel Bilt Hamber.
Any other suggestions to get it off?

Acid will be your best bet for that, it's the best option when dealing with embedded brake dust like that.

MetzgerMeister · 22-03-2021 1:50pm

Foxhole Norman wrote: »

Acid will be your best bet for that, it's the best option when dealing with embedded brake dust like that.

I didn't actually think of that, good shout! It's been years since I used an acid-based wheel cleaner.

duffman - turtle wax wheel cleaner or meguiars hot rims wheel cleaner are the two acid based cleaners I've used and they both work.

Just be damn sure to wear a face mask and eye protection when applying it.

duffman3833 · 22-03-2021 3:08pm

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

I didn't actually think of that, good shout! It's been years since I used an acid-based wheel cleaner.

duffman - turtle wax wheel cleaner or meguiars hot rims wheel cleaner are the two acid based cleaners I've used and they both work.

Just be damn sure to wear a face mask and eye protection when applying it.

Cheers, ill give it a go. Its weird that one out of the 4 alloys were like that. Could have been a disk rubbing constantly or something to cause it. I did get 80% of it off, it was a lot worse than in the pic but ill try above

MetzgerMeister · 22-03-2021 4:15pm

It could have been a seized caliper on that corner.

Stallingrad · 22-03-2021 6:44pm

duffman3833 wrote: »

Cheers, ill give it a go. Its weird that one out of the 4 alloys were like that. Could have been a disk rubbing constantly or something to cause it. I did get 80% of it off, it was a lot worse than in the pic but ill try above

I'd say you'll be happy to be shot of the old 17" rims, that design are a pig to clean with that groove behind the spokes.

duffman3833 · 23-03-2021 11:21am

Stallingrad wrote: »

I'd say you'll be happy to be shot of the old 17" rims, that design are a pig to clean with that groove behind the spokes.

The main reason for a change was they are too common

CtrlAltDelete · 24-03-2021 1:25am

duffman3833 wrote: »

The main reason for a change was they are too common

Are you sure they will fit your car? Are they OEM G30 18s?

duffman3833 · 24-03-2021 3:40pm

CtrlAltDelete wrote: »

Are you sure they will fit your car? Are they OEM G30 18s?

no they wont fit but i got adapter with them, just need to get longer bolts at the weekend and should fit fine

CtrlAltDelete · 24-03-2021 4:03pm

duffman3833 wrote: »

no they wont fit but i got adapter with them, just need to get longer bolts at the weekend and should fit fine

Post a photo when you've it sorted. ðŸ‘

MetzgerMeister · 28-03-2021 8:22pm

Today I did some metal polishing. I got soaked in the process but I had it started so I said I would finish it. It brings up the rear end quite a bit IMO.

The box is as shiny on the left, as the right. Whatever way the shadows are is making it look different.

The process was:

Hose down
Scrub with Gtechniq W5 APC and Vikan stiff bristle brush
Hose down and dry
Grade 0000 steel wool and Autosol metal polish
Wipe down and inspect
Another pass of steel wool and polish
Wipe down
Tar spots and remaining residue removed with Gtechniq W7
Wipe down with APC
Wipe down with Gtechniq Panel Wipe
2 coats of Gtechniq C2V3 (When I have the wheels done I might apply C5 to this area if I have any left over).

I also replaced the rear badge which was corroded and I replaced both air diverters under the front bumper.

Next week I'll be finishing off the paint correction (only the drivers door and C pillar to do) along with a wheel detail and Gtechniq C5 application and new centre caps, wheel arch detail, brake caliper detail with pad removal in order to remove all the caked-up brake dust followed by crystal serum application, disc hub detail.

If I have time and energy after that I'll do an engine bay detail and properly clean the seats and apply Gtechniq L1.

I got a new steam cleaner over the weekend so that might be of help with some of the above.

Slaanesh · 22-04-2021 4:54pm

Ceramic Coating complete. The whole process took a good 18 hours ish. It was my first time doing a lot of the different phases.

What I did and things I would do differently!

Snow foam, 2 bucket wash, Red Ox decon and a soft claying. It didn't really need it, couldn't feel anything coming off the paint.
Used a big drying towel to remove most of the water.

I then moved it into the garage and taped up most of the trim. I'm not sure this was strictly necessary but I didn't want to directly hit the trim with the polisher but I think it would've been fine anyway. This took a good while.
Single stage paint correction using Menzerna 3500 and a green finishing pad. (switched to a white hexlogic pad and it was much better). A different product may have been more suitable but it did turn out well. I had a Das 6 Pro machine polisher and a 5" backing plate, the car is very curvy in parts making it very difficult. I would recommend also getting a 3" pad too.

I used many many microfibre towels for removing polish, I wish I had bought more high GSM towels for the process.

I had a small inspection torch to make sure I was getting rid of swirls but there is a lot to be said for having really good lamps, I had to make do with not great indoor lighting.

Carpro Eraser was used as the panel wipe for removing oils and residue from the polishing process. When I got to day 2 I had only 1 side left to polish.
The Ceramic Coating (GTechniq Crystal Serum Light) was pretty easy to apply with the included applicator. I had 3 high GSM towels which made removal really easy. I used 1 to remove and then 1 to make sure everything was gone. I wish I had 3 times as many of these towels though. I also ceramic coated the aero covers and trim of the car. I didn't do the glass because I'm going to get something specific for glass.
Once the CSL was applied, I left it an hour and then went straight into 2 coats of EXO. The CSL is hydrophobic on its own but this brings it to another level.

I put autoglym tire gel on the tires.
I left it about 18 hours before collecting it to let the coatings cure. I have to leave it another week before washing it.
It certainly was a learning process and I have a new found respect for detailers, my back is broken!

My guestimate cost ish is:
65 for CSL
60 for EXO
40 ish on various towels
Had the loan of the DAS 6 Pro
15 for carpro eraser
There were other bits and bobs, lets say 20 quid.
All in all 200 euro and 18 hours work!
I think I saw someone had a quote of 600 which included the 2 coats of EXO. Unless this is something you enjoy doing, I'd get someone else to do it.
I'll update again in a couple of months to see if the coating is doing it's job!

vintagevrs · 16-05-2021 8:50pm

I dont know if I would call it detailing but I recently got a foam lance along with some different products for it. These spray on sealants are unreal, and completely new to me. Prob been on the market a long time and I'm late to the party but I'm nearly annoyed that I used to spend time waxing a car when these sealants work so well with zero effort....

Austmcc · 17-05-2021 3:21pm

vintagevrs wrote: »

I dont know if I would call it detailing but I recently got a foam lance along with some different products for it. These spray on sealants are unreal, and completely new to me. Prob been on the market a long time and I'm late to the party but I'm nearly annoyed that I used to spend time waxing a car when these sealants work so well

Which sealant did you use? Looking into them myself with a new foam cannon purchase on the way

vintagevrs · 17-05-2021 4:11pm

Austmcc wrote: »

Which sealant did you use? Looking into them myself with a new foam cannon purchase on the way

https://www.blok51.com/kkd-purity-x-polymer-concentrate-250ml.html

MetzgerMeister · 24-06-2021 1:02pm

A few pics from the weekend. We removed, detailed and ceramic coated the wheels on conzy's F30. Some craic!

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmW4sCE5

myshirt · 25-06-2021 5:31pm

Has anyone applied Gtechniq products outside on their drive? I don't have a garage. Want to G1 the car windows.

Cass · 25-06-2021 5:41pm

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

A few pics from the weekend. We removed, detailed and ceramic coated the wheels on conzy's F30. Some craic!

Nice.

Love to see wheels that are cleaned inside and "out".

challengemaster · 26-06-2021 9:43am

myshirt wrote: »

Has anyone applied Gtechniq products outside on their drive? I don't have a garage. Want to G1 the car windows.

Metzger has probably applied gtechniq products to everything he owns, including his underpants.

tech · 27-06-2021 8:52pm

The a6 got a bit of a cleanup

Wash
De Tar
Wash
Fallout
Wash
Claymit
rinsh
2 coats of penta wax

[IMG][/img]

tech · 27-06-2021 8:58pm

[IMG][/img]

myshirt · 27-06-2021 10:36pm

Looking fantastic.

Great write up. Lovely motor.

MetzgerMeister · 28-06-2021 11:43am

challengemaster wrote: »

Metzger has probably applied gtechniq products to everything he owns, including his underpants.

Nothing like a bit of beading on the jocks! :pac:

MetzgerMeister · 29-06-2021 1:39pm

myshirt wrote: »

Has anyone applied Gtechniq products outside on their drive? I don't have a garage. Want to G1 the car windows.

I did polishing and G1 in my driveway. I covered all the glass afterwards with sheets to protect from bird droppings. G1 is more or less cured about 15 minutes after application. Maybe a bit longer after you remove the residue.

I don't think rain would really bother it but bird droppings more than likely would until the official cure time has been met.

myshirt · 29-06-2021 11:31pm

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

I did polishing and G1 in my driveway. I covered all the glass afterwards with sheets to protect from bird droppings. G1 is more or less cured about 15 minutes after application. Maybe a bit longer after you remove the residue.

I don't think rain would really bother it but bird droppings more than likely would until the official cure time has been met.

I have a glass sunroof to do too. Presumably same story. Any specific glass polish to use or did you stick to the Gtechniq product? I have Soft99 Glaco on the window, will need to strip somehow.

I'm going to C5 the wheels another weekend.

Then I'll move on to the underpants.

MetzgerMeister · 30-06-2021 10:07am

myshirt wrote: »

I have a glass sunroof to do too. Presumably same story. Any specific glass polish to use or did you stick to the Gtechniq product? I have Soft99 Glaco on the window, will need to strip somehow.

I'm going to C5 the wheels another weekend.

Then I'll move on to the underpants.

I used Gtechniq G4 glass polish on a mini dual action. You can of course do it by hand.

In order to remove the Glaco, I'm not sure if G4 would do the job but I'd nearly be certain that CarPro CeriGlass would remove it.

Today I did some detailing...

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Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County