Today I did some detailing...

got Lidl's new pressure washer over the weekend for €99 and i have to say it did a fantastic job.
Along with Bilt Hamber snow foam and shampoo, the car turned out nice and shiny.
Does anyone have recommendation for removing tar from bottom of car??
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punisher5112

duffman3833 wrote: »

got Lidl's new pressure washer over the weekend for €99 and i have to say it did a fantastic job.
Along with Bilt Hamber snow foam and shampoo, the car turned out nice and shiny.
Does anyone have recommendation for removing tar from bottom of car??

Tar X if you can get it, spray on, do not rub, jet off repeat if necessary.

Truckermal wrote: »

Trying to keep on top of keeping the Car well so quick machine polish followed by a coating of C2V3 to keep the shine up!

The C2V3 is an excellent product and can be applied every other month as part of your maintenance for the ceramic range too, so it’s supposed to be very good. Have you noticed how long you get out of it as a stand-alone product?

Truckermal

It normally lasts months but I use a lot of it! I even use it on the windows of the House to keep them clean!

Truckermal wrote: »

It normally lasts months but I use a lot of it! I even use it on the windows of the House to keep them clean!

I done the wife’s car with the G1 glass coating last week and I said my next batch, I’m gonna do the house windows too

Truckermal

Gumbo wrote: »

I done the wife’s car with the G1 glass coating last week and I said my next batch, I’m gonna do the house windows too

I cleaned mine first with Cleaner Car Glass cleaner from D&D Detailing... It's absolutely amazing and for Windows that looked clean I took some amount of dirt off them!

Truckermal wrote: »

I cleaned mine first with Cleaner Car Glass cleaner from D&D Detailing... It's absolutely amazing and for Windows that looked clean I took some amount of dirt off them!

Agree. I used G4 to polish the glass first too.

Got a new, to me, car the other day. The bodywork is in good condition with no scratches, dents or even stone chips, but needs a serious paint correction. Lots of swirls and signs of poor washing.

However the car was not well looked after by the last owner (i knew and spoke to the previous/first owner). It was not abused just used as a car. The inside is very dirty and will receive a thorough detailing in the coming days but i decided to start on the outside.

I spent 6 hours de-taring, de-ironing, and getting the wheels back to their original colour from the lovely rust brown they were. :rolleyes:

Never got picture of the car before but below is a picture of the car during the final contact wash and rinse.

I fixed a few small jobs today and tomorrow is quick wash, clay barring, paint correction and all going well polish.

Polish after a paint correction is a waste of time Cass. A paint correction is a polish so you're gaining nothing. If I were you I would do the paint correction, remove polish residue with panel wipe and then apply a layer of something like Gtechniq C2V3.

I would advise you do it a panel at a time.

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Polish after a paint correction is a waste of time Cass. A paint correction is a polish so you're gaining nothing.

Oh. I got the terminology/process wrong so. I thought a paint correction was just the cutting back to remove swirls and light scratches. Suppose the polish won't do any harm, but is, as you said, a redundancy.

Speaking of which what would you recommend? I only have Menzerna medium cut. It done a decent job but did not fully remove it. It looks way better but i can see "residual" swirls under light when i check. Do i go heavier cut or keep using the medium and working it down "layer by layer" so as to avoid potential damage by going to strong, first time?

If I were you I would do the paint correction, remove polish residue with panel wipe and then apply a layer of something like Gtechniq C2V3.

Thanks for the advice.

The G4 C2V3. I done a google search as i've never seen it before. Its not ceramic coating, sure its not? I have ceramic coating here, but never had the nerve to try and use it. Where i live, even in my garage is not the cleanest place. Its rural and between farming machinery and a local small quarry there is perpetual dust. Funny thing is i went at the car yesterday as it would be quite being Patrick's day and all but the dust, while not as severe, was heavy outside the garage.

I would advise you do it a panel at a time.

Good advice again. Resist the urge to "belt on" and try cover multiple panels and end up messing it up myself.

I didn't get the car completely done yesterday. As i'm not completely satisfied with the results can you give a suggestion or process to remove the residue of the Menzerna so i can start fresh and also should i go for heavier cut, a different product, or just go once again with what i have?

Thanks in advance and apologies for all the questions.

Cass wrote: »

Oh. I got the terminology/process wrong so. I thought a paint correction was just the cutting back to remove swirls and light scratches. Suppose the polish won't do any harm, but is, as you said, a redundancy.

Speaking of which what would you recommend? I only have Menzerna medium cut. It done a decent job but did not fully remove it. It looks way better but i can see "residual" swirls under light when i check. Do i go heavier cut or keep using the medium and working it down "layer by layer" so as to avoid potential damage by going to strong, first time?

Thanks for the advice.

The G4 C2V3. I done a google search as i've never seen it before. Its not ceramic coating, sure its not? I have ceramic coating here, but never had the nerve to try and use it. Where i live, even in my garage is not the cleanest place. Its rural and between farming machinery and a local small quarry there is perpetual dust. Funny thing is i went at the car yesterday as it would be quite being Patrick's day and all but the dust, while not as severe, was heavy outside the garage.

Good advice again. Resist the urge to "belt on" and try cover multiple panels and end up messing it up myself.

I didn't get the car completely done yesterday. As i'm not completely satisfied with the results can you give a suggestion or process to remove the residue of the Menzerna so i can start fresh and also should i go for heavier cut, a different product, or just go once again with what i have?

Thanks in advance and apologies for all the questions.

C2V3 is not a ceramic as you mention. It’s a top coat/sealant/stand alone coating.

You mention that you have a ceramic there, but have to got the indoor covered space to apply it and let it cure for the 12/24/48 hours as required?

Judging by the machinery and dust comments, I would say no so may be risky to apply there.

Are you planning a one step polish or 2/3 stage?

Cass wrote: »

Oh. I got the terminology/process wrong so. I thought a paint correction was just the cutting back to remove swirls and light scratches. Suppose the polish won't do any harm, but is, as you said, a redundancy.

That's exactly what a paint correction is but it works by polishing the paint to remove the layer of damaged lacquer. The "polish" is only a redundancy if it's not by way of refining/jewelling the paint after correction. Is this what you mean by polish?

Cass wrote: »

Speaking of which what would you recommend? I only have Menzerna medium cut. It done a decent job but did not fully remove it. It looks way better but i can see "residual" swirls under light when i check. Do i go heavier cut or keep using the medium and working it down "layer by layer" so as to avoid potential damage by going to strong, first time?

I use Scholl S3 or Scholl S20 Black for cutting and Menzerna 3000 for refining. The medium cut is fine but you won't get 100% results after one polish. For instance, I spent from 10 am until 6pm yesterday correcting and finishing a wheel arch and passenger door on my own car.

I do a cut, remove the polish, inspect with a torch, go over any scratches I missed and do this until the panel is perfect. Down the line I will be applying 2 coatings to it so at that stage I will be giving the whole car another light cut and a refining cut before application. This way I have all the hard work done now.

Cass wrote: »

The G4 C2V3. I done a google search as i've never seen it before. Its not ceramic coating, sure its not? I have ceramic coating here, but never had the nerve to try and use it. Where i live, even in my garage is not the cleanest place. Its rural and between farming machinery and a local small quarry there is perpetual dust. Funny thing is i went at the car yesterday as it would be quite being Patrick's day and all but the dust, while not as severe, was heavy outside the garage.

No, C2V3 isn't a ceramic coating as such. It's a very good "ceramic" sealant with good longevity. the word "ceramic" isn't just for a coating but it's now being applied to anything with si02 in it.

What ceramic coating do you have?

Cass wrote: »

Good advice again. Resist the urge to "belt on" and try cover multiple panels and end up messing it up myself.

I didn't get the car completely done yesterday. As i'm not completely satisfied with the results can you give a suggestion or process to remove the residue of the Menzerna so i can start fresh and also should i go for heavier cut, a different product, or just go once again with what i have?

Not even messing it up but when you work panel by panel you take your time to do a proper job and ensure that the panel is as good as you'll get it before moving on. Yes it will take longer but in the end it's worth it.

There's no point in trying to correct a car in a day because you'll put in all the work and then when you're finished you'll see scratches you missed as has happened in your case. Correcting a car is a lot of work so make it worth while by focusing on one panel at a time.

Gumbo wrote: »

C2V3 is not a ceramic as you mention. It’s a top coat/sealant/stand alone coating.

Thanks for clearing it up. It says so on the site i checked, but wanted to be sure.

You mention that you have a ceramic there, but have to got the indoor covered space to apply it and let it cure for the 12/24/48 hours as required?

Judging by the machinery and dust comments, I would say no so may be risky to apply there.

I've had the coating for a year now but as you said with the dust levels its just not doable. Even if i sealed the garage with plastic liner i wouldn't be confident of a "sealed" or "clean" environment so not taking that chance.

Are you planning a one step polish or 2/3 stage?

2 stage. The bodywork is not bad enough to warrant a 3 stage. I think my issues arise from not having the proper cutting compound. It works but is more suited to light work and on first glance i thought the body work was not too bad, and in fairness nothing is through the top coat let alone into the paint, but i could do with something a little more aggressive than what i have.

I'll solve that today with a trip to the local supplier, hence the recommendation request.

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Is this what you mean by polish?

Yes. The "shiney"

finish after the paint correction.

I use Scholl S3 or Scholl S20 Black for cutting and Menzerna 3000 for refining. The medium cut is fine but you won't get 100% results after one polish.

Thanks for that.

I spent months of constant washing and correction with my old car to get the finish i have on it now. I knew going into it that it wouldn't be a one day cure so i need to calm my heels and realise it took longer with my old car so not to expect miracles.

For instance, I spent from 10 am until 6pm yesterday correcting and finishing a wheel arch and passenger door on my own car.

I spent about 90 minutes or a little more on the bonnet alone. I have penty of products but realised i only have one cutting product. So i need to stock up on that end. The bonnet turned out well, but not good. IOW once i had half it done i stopped to compare to the other side and there was a noticeable difference but under alight inspection i could see subtle swirls.

So i'll take your advice and realise its a marathon, not a sprint.

I do a cut, remove the polish, inspect with a torch, go over any scratches I missed and do this until the panel is perfect. Down the line I will be applying 2 coatings to it so at that stage I will be giving the whole car another light cut and a refining cut before application. This way I have all the hard work done now.

I think where i fall down is my experience over knowledge. I know the processes, its the ability that lacks. Hence the reason i tend to go slower which requires continuous applications. IOW i'd rather go lightly and have to do it a few times that "jump in" and make it worse.

No, C2V3 isn't a ceramic coating as such. It's a very good "ceramic" sealant with good longevity. the word "ceramic" isn't just for a coating but it's now being applied to anything with si02 in it.

And what is the curing time, if any. While its not ceramic does it require the same curing time as say proper sealant. While my area is not great in terms of dust keeping the car secure of dust for an hour or two may be possible, but as said above not for a half day and definitely not longer.

What ceramic coating do you have?

C Quartz. Was bought for me, but never used it. Is it any good?

There's no point in trying to correct a car in a day because you'll put in all the work and then when you're finished you'll see scratches you missed as has happened in your case. Correcting a car is a lot of work so make it worth while by focusing on one panel at a time.

Good advice, again.

I apologise for all questions. As said above i have the process just not the technique down and i'm being overly cautious to avoid making a balls of things. I'm essentially a novice and if it came to something like ceramic coating i think i'd leave it to a professional, but the paint correction is something i feel i can tackle.

Thanks again for the help and advice.

The shiny finish after cutting is indeed a polish but is moreso referred to as the refining stage to improve the gloss. For this stage I use the Menzerna 3000 and a Shinemate orange or red pad.

What I do for a bonnet is section it into 4 parts. This way you can see how well your method/chosen products and pads are doing and whether to swap to another if you need a more aggressive approach. Once you get this sorted you'll be on the best path to doing the job efficiently.

Paint correction takes a lot of experience and trying different combinations of pads and polish etc. before you'll get it right. We've all been there so don't worry about it, just take your time to see what works best for you. You're 100% right to not jump in and make a balls of it.

C2V3 is literally spray on, spread with a cloth and buff with a clean, dry cloth. It's as simple as that. No cure time as you'd have with the likes of Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light/EXO or C-Quartz. The reason for this is because C2V3 sits on top of the paint but Crystal Serum/EXO and C-Quartz chemically bond to the paint and become the sacrificial top layer of the paint. I haven't used CQaurtz myself but reports are good on it.

Don't apologise for asking questions - that's what this forum is for

vintagevrs

Is applying collinite 845 very old fashioned now.

I washed, clayed, machine polished and then applied 845 today. It used to be well regarded but everything now seems to silica based.

Should I buy some of the stuff mentioned above?

The car was caked in tar and ****e, would some of these coating help prevent that.

Here's how it came out today.....

punisher5112

The helper in the car looks delighted....

PsychoPete

Some people still like applying wax but theres a lot of spray products out there that have better gloss,durability etc and are easier to apply

vintagevrs

PsychoPete wrote: »

Some people still like applying wax but theres a lot of spray products out there that have better gloss,durability etc and are easier to apply

Yeah there's a good car wash beside me and they washed the car a few weeks ago. Yer man asked did I want the super extra delux special wash with extra wax etc so I was like yeah grand.

He did spray on a product near the end and the water was noticeably beading for days after. A whole lot less hassle than the wax I was using today. It's a nightmare esp in the cooler weather.

I might look into something a bit easier. Sometimes I think a lot of this stuff is marketing over substance but does look like things have moved on.

vintagevrs wrote: »

Is applying collinite 845 very old fashioned now.

I washed, clayed, machine polished and then applied 845 today. It used to be well regarded but everything now seems to silica based.

Should I buy some of the stuff mentioned above?

The car was caked in tar and ****e, would some of these coating help prevent that.

Here's how it came out today.....

My opinion is not that they are old fashioned, but old technology.
Some of the spray on sealants give similar gloss and similar length of protection or hydrophobic properties.

Some people want the quicker process.
Si02 technology and all nano costings have really taken off because of the ability to bond to the clear cost and provide unrivalled durability.

I wouldn’t say dump what you have and go out and buy the new products, more so, use what you have and when that’s gone re-evaluate what products are available to achieve the same result.

Also, some people enjoy the process of waxing.

I personally haven't applied a wax in years. The benefits of products like C2V3, CarPro Reload etc. are just too numerous to bother with wax any more. I never liked applying, waiting, buffing wax as it took up too much time. I often had to time it when I had 2 cars to get through in a day and it was just a PITA. When you consider that with a spray-on sealant it's an eighth of the effort to get a more durable finish it's a no brainer.

Nothing will stop tar getting on the car apart from not driving it or only driving it on grass. No matter what coating you have, tar will find its way on. All you can do is make it easier to remove.

I got some new rims for the car and started to detail them. I struggled with getting a lot of the brake dust of one wheel. I was using auto wheel Bilt Hamber.
Any other suggestions to get it off?

That must be incredibly well baked on if AutoWheel isn't shifting it. Maybe try Korrosol or Gtechniq W6.

Having said that, I think claying is the only way you're going to move it. Use LOTS of lubricant.

Foxhole Norman

duffman3833 wrote: »

I got some new rims for the car and started to detail them. I struggled with getting a lot of the brake dust of one wheel. I was using auto wheel Bilt Hamber.
Any other suggestions to get it off?

Acid will be your best bet for that, it's the best option when dealing with embedded brake dust like that.

Foxhole Norman wrote: »

Acid will be your best bet for that, it's the best option when dealing with embedded brake dust like that.

I didn't actually think of that, good shout! It's been years since I used an acid-based wheel cleaner.

duffman - turtle wax wheel cleaner or meguiars hot rims wheel cleaner are the two acid based cleaners I've used and they both work.

Just be damn sure to wear a face mask and eye protection when applying it.

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

I didn't actually think of that, good shout! It's been years since I used an acid-based wheel cleaner.

duffman - turtle wax wheel cleaner or meguiars hot rims wheel cleaner are the two acid based cleaners I've used and they both work.

Just be damn sure to wear a face mask and eye protection when applying it.

Cheers, ill give it a go. Its weird that one out of the 4 alloys were like that. Could have been a disk rubbing constantly or something to cause it. I did get 80% of it off, it was a lot worse than in the pic but ill try above

It could have been a seized caliper on that corner.

Stallingrad

duffman3833 wrote: »

Cheers, ill give it a go. Its weird that one out of the 4 alloys were like that. Could have been a disk rubbing constantly or something to cause it. I did get 80% of it off, it was a lot worse than in the pic but ill try above

I'd say you'll be happy to be shot of the old 17" rims, that design are a pig to clean with that groove behind the spokes.