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Today I did some detailing...

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Comments

  • #2


    PsychoPete wrote: »
    Some people still like applying wax but theres a lot of spray products out there that have better gloss,durability etc and are easier to apply

    Yeah there's a good car wash beside me and they washed the car a few weeks ago. Yer man asked did I want the super extra delux special wash with extra wax etc so I was like yeah grand.

    He did spray on a product near the end and the water was noticeably beading for days after. A whole lot less hassle than the wax I was using today. It's a nightmare esp in the cooler weather.

    I might look into something a bit easier. Sometimes I think a lot of this stuff is marketing over substance but does look like things have moved on.


  • #2


    vintagevrs wrote: »
    Is applying collinite 845 very old fashioned now.

    I washed, clayed, machine polished and then applied 845 today. It used to be well regarded but everything now seems to silica based.

    Should I buy some of the stuff mentioned above?

    The car was caked in tar and ****e, would some of these coating help prevent that.

    Here's how it came out today.....

    IMG-20210320-180050.jpg

    My opinion is not that they are old fashioned, but old technology.
    Some of the spray on sealants give similar gloss and similar length of protection or hydrophobic properties.

    Some people want the quicker process.
    Si02 technology and all nano costings have really taken off because of the ability to bond to the clear cost and provide unrivalled durability.

    I wouldn’t say dump what you have and go out and buy the new products, more so, use what you have and when that’s gone re-evaluate what products are available to achieve the same result.

    Also, some people enjoy the process of waxing.


  • #2


    I personally haven't applied a wax in years. The benefits of products like C2V3, CarPro Reload etc. are just too numerous to bother with wax any more. I never liked applying, waiting, buffing wax as it took up too much time. I often had to time it when I had 2 cars to get through in a day and it was just a PITA. When you consider that with a spray-on sealant it's an eighth of the effort to get a more durable finish it's a no brainer.

    Nothing will stop tar getting on the car apart from not driving it or only driving it on grass. No matter what coating you have, tar will find its way on. All you can do is make it easier to remove.


  • #2


    I got some new rims for the car and started to detail them. I struggled with getting a lot of the brake dust of one wheel. I was using auto wheel Bilt Hamber.
    Any other suggestions to get it off?
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  • #2


    That must be incredibly well baked on if AutoWheel isn't shifting it. Maybe try Korrosol or Gtechniq W6.

    Having said that, I think claying is the only way you're going to move it. Use LOTS of lubricant.


  • #2


    I got some new rims for the car and started to detail them. I struggled with getting a lot of the brake dust of one wheel. I was using auto wheel Bilt Hamber.
    Any other suggestions to get it off?
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    Acid will be your best bet for that, it's the best option when dealing with embedded brake dust like that.


  • #2


    Acid will be your best bet for that, it's the best option when dealing with embedded brake dust like that.

    I didn't actually think of that, good shout! It's been years since I used an acid-based wheel cleaner.

    duffman - turtle wax wheel cleaner or meguiars hot rims wheel cleaner are the two acid based cleaners I've used and they both work.

    Just be damn sure to wear a face mask and eye protection when applying it.


  • #2


    I didn't actually think of that, good shout! It's been years since I used an acid-based wheel cleaner.

    duffman - turtle wax wheel cleaner or meguiars hot rims wheel cleaner are the two acid based cleaners I've used and they both work.

    Just be damn sure to wear a face mask and eye protection when applying it.

    Cheers, ill give it a go. Its weird that one out of the 4 alloys were like that. Could have been a disk rubbing constantly or something to cause it. I did get 80% of it off, it was a lot worse than in the pic but ill try above


  • #2


    It could have been a seized caliper on that corner.


  • #2


    Cheers, ill give it a go. Its weird that one out of the 4 alloys were like that. Could have been a disk rubbing constantly or something to cause it. I did get 80% of it off, it was a lot worse than in the pic but ill try above

    I'd say you'll be happy to be shot of the old 17" rims, that design are a pig to clean with that groove behind the spokes.


  • #2


    I'd say you'll be happy to be shot of the old 17" rims, that design are a pig to clean with that groove behind the spokes.

    The main reason for a change was they are too common


  • #2


    The main reason for a change was they are too common

    Are you sure they will fit your car? Are they OEM G30 18s?


  • #2


    Are you sure they will fit your car? Are they OEM G30 18s?

    no they wont fit but i got adapter with them, just need to get longer bolts at the weekend and should fit fine


  • #2


    no they wont fit but i got adapter with them, just need to get longer bolts at the weekend and should fit fine

    Post a photo when you've it sorted. ðŸ‘


  • #2


    Today I did some metal polishing. I got soaked in the process but I had it started so I said I would finish it. It brings up the rear end quite a bit IMO.

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    The box is as shiny on the left, as the right. Whatever way the shadows are is making it look different.

    The process was:

    Hose down
    Scrub with Gtechniq W5 APC and Vikan stiff bristle brush
    Hose down and dry
    Grade 0000 steel wool and Autosol metal polish
    Wipe down and inspect
    Another pass of steel wool and polish
    Wipe down
    Tar spots and remaining residue removed with Gtechniq W7
    Wipe down with APC
    Wipe down with Gtechniq Panel Wipe
    2 coats of Gtechniq C2V3 (When I have the wheels done I might apply C5 to this area if I have any left over).

    I also replaced the rear badge which was corroded and I replaced both air diverters under the front bumper.

    Next week I'll be finishing off the paint correction (only the drivers door and C pillar to do) along with a wheel detail and Gtechniq C5 application and new centre caps, wheel arch detail, brake caliper detail with pad removal in order to remove all the caked-up brake dust followed by crystal serum application, disc hub detail.

    If I have time and energy after that I'll do an engine bay detail and properly clean the seats and apply Gtechniq L1.

    I got a new steam cleaner over the weekend so that might be of help with some of the above.


  • #2


    Ceramic Coating complete. The whole process took a good 18 hours ish. It was my first time doing a lot of the different phases.

    What I did and things I would do differently!

    Snow foam, 2 bucket wash, Red Ox decon and a soft claying. It didn't really need it, couldn't feel anything coming off the paint.
    Used a big drying towel to remove most of the water.

    I then moved it into the garage and taped up most of the trim. I'm not sure this was strictly necessary but I didn't want to directly hit the trim with the polisher but I think it would've been fine anyway. This took a good while.
    Single stage paint correction using Menzerna 3500 and a green finishing pad. (switched to a white hexlogic pad and it was much better). A different product may have been more suitable but it did turn out well. I had a Das 6 Pro machine polisher and a 5" backing plate, the car is very curvy in parts making it very difficult. I would recommend also getting a 3" pad too.

    I used many many microfibre towels for removing polish, I wish I had bought more high GSM towels for the process.

    I had a small inspection torch to make sure I was getting rid of swirls but there is a lot to be said for having really good lamps, I had to make do with not great indoor lighting.

    Carpro Eraser was used as the panel wipe for removing oils and residue from the polishing process. When I got to day 2 I had only 1 side left to polish.
    The Ceramic Coating (GTechniq Crystal Serum Light) was pretty easy to apply with the included applicator. I had 3 high GSM towels which made removal really easy. I used 1 to remove and then 1 to make sure everything was gone. I wish I had 3 times as many of these towels though. I also ceramic coated the aero covers and trim of the car. I didn't do the glass because I'm going to get something specific for glass.
    Once the CSL was applied, I left it an hour and then went straight into 2 coats of EXO. The CSL is hydrophobic on its own but this brings it to another level.

    I put autoglym tire gel on the tires.
    I left it about 18 hours before collecting it to let the coatings cure. I have to leave it another week before washing it.
    It certainly was a learning process and I have a new found respect for detailers, my back is broken!

    My guestimate cost ish is:
    65 for CSL
    60 for EXO
    40 ish on various towels
    Had the loan of the DAS 6 Pro
    15 for carpro eraser
    There were other bits and bobs, lets say 20 quid.
    All in all 200 euro and 18 hours work!
    I think I saw someone had a quote of 600 which included the 2 coats of EXO. Unless this is something you enjoy doing, I'd get someone else to do it.
    I'll update again in a couple of months to see if the coating is doing it's job!

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  • #2


    I dont know if I would call it detailing but I recently got a foam lance along with some different products for it. These spray on sealants are unreal, and completely new to me. Prob been on the market a long time and I'm late to the party but I'm nearly annoyed that I used to spend time waxing a car when these sealants work so well with zero effort....

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  • #2


    vintagevrs wrote: »
    I dont know if I would call it detailing but I recently got a foam lance along with some different products for it. These spray on sealants are unreal, and completely new to me. Prob been on the market a long time and I'm late to the party but I'm nearly annoyed that I used to spend time waxing a car when these sealants work so well

    Which sealant did you use? Looking into them myself with a new foam cannon purchase on the way


  • #2


    Austmcc wrote: »
    Which sealant did you use? Looking into them myself with a new foam cannon purchase on the way

    https://www.blok51.com/kkd-purity-x-polymer-concentrate-250ml.html


  • #2


    A few pics from the weekend. We removed, detailed and ceramic coated the wheels on conzy's F30. Some craic!

    https://flic.kr/s/aHsmW4sCE5


  • #2


    Has anyone applied Gtechniq products outside on their drive? I don't have a garage. Want to G1 the car windows.


  • #2


    A few pics from the weekend. We removed, detailed and ceramic coated the wheels on conzy's F30. Some craic!
    Nice.

    Love to see wheels that are cleaned inside and "out".

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  • #2


    myshirt wrote: »
    Has anyone applied Gtechniq products outside on their drive? I don't have a garage. Want to G1 the car windows.

    Metzger has probably applied gtechniq products to everything he owns, including his underpants.


  • #2


    The a6 got a bit of a cleanup

    Wash
    De Tar
    Wash
    Fallout
    Wash
    Claymit
    rinsh
    2 coats of penta wax

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  • #2


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  • #2


    Looking fantastic.

    Great write up. Lovely motor.


  • #2


    Metzger has probably applied gtechniq products to everything he owns, including his underpants.

    Nothing like a bit of beading on the jocks! :pac:


  • #2


    myshirt wrote: »
    Has anyone applied Gtechniq products outside on their drive? I don't have a garage. Want to G1 the car windows.

    I did polishing and G1 in my driveway. I covered all the glass afterwards with sheets to protect from bird droppings. G1 is more or less cured about 15 minutes after application. Maybe a bit longer after you remove the residue.

    I don't think rain would really bother it but bird droppings more than likely would until the official cure time has been met.


  • #2


    I did polishing and G1 in my driveway. I covered all the glass afterwards with sheets to protect from bird droppings. G1 is more or less cured about 15 minutes after application. Maybe a bit longer after you remove the residue.

    I don't think rain would really bother it but bird droppings more than likely would until the official cure time has been met.

    I have a glass sunroof to do too. Presumably same story. Any specific glass polish to use or did you stick to the Gtechniq product? I have Soft99 Glaco on the window, will need to strip somehow.

    I'm going to C5 the wheels another weekend.

    Then I'll move on to the underpants.


  • #2


    myshirt wrote: »
    I have a glass sunroof to do too. Presumably same story. Any specific glass polish to use or did you stick to the Gtechniq product? I have Soft99 Glaco on the window, will need to strip somehow.

    I'm going to C5 the wheels another weekend.

    Then I'll move on to the underpants.

    I used Gtechniq G4 glass polish on a mini dual action. You can of course do it by hand.

    In order to remove the Glaco, I'm not sure if G4 would do the job but I'd nearly be certain that CarPro CeriGlass would remove it.


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