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My Well Built Shed Project

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  • Registered Users Posts: 31,025 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    https://www.goodwins.ie/dpc-damp-proof-course/c-1820.html



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,057 ✭✭✭TimHorton


    Have you seen his latest project, They have sold the house and moved to a farm, He is building a Temp Home on 2x Steel Chassis back to back that can be separated - They are legally Mobile Homes as they have wheels...No Planning required - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-79ig1o8aU



  • Registered Users Posts: 31,025 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I don't know about the UK, but in Ireland planning permission is required to live in a mobile home.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,057 ✭✭✭TimHorton


    Wonder is it enforced, There is a Mobile Home in a field near me for over 3 years - No house under construction just a Mobile Home plonked in a field and people living in it full time.



  • Registered Users Posts: 791 ✭✭✭CreadanLady


    the cute hoor get out of that is if you are the subject of an enforcement case from the planning authority, if you move the mobile home to a different location then it is a different "development" and the clock goes back to the start and they would have to open a new case against you.

    I know of a fella who had a house built similarly on a chassis and it was all done nice and well thought out. Council came on to him for a planning enforcement. Eventually they called out. He removed some covers and things, hitched on a tractor and moved the house 3 feet on its wheels, and then moved it back to original position. The council officers went away. They knew they were had.

    He had the house designed with this in mind and so set it up so that it could move back and forth a small distance without any major work.

    The MFV Creadan Lady is a mussel dredger from Dunmore East.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 31,025 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Sure, there's loads of stuff you can do once you relieve yourself of the burden of the law.

    I've a load of bodies under the patio and not a single visit from the gardai! If they start sniffing around I'll just move them. 😂



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,057 ✭✭✭TimHorton


    Not a great analogy, The Mobile home is in plain sight with constant activity, with No planning details on County Planning Map.



  • Registered Users Posts: 15,871 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB


    Well the wood has arrived for the walls

    need to check my measurements now again before I start cutting.

    so I’m working real job tomorrow so will take a bit of time to also work out which lengths to cut and where.

    im not sure if I need to plan for a panel roof at this stage? Ie. Will I need to angle my tie in beams across the top (front and back) or will I just put a second beam on top? I’m not sure if I will even be doing this type of roof but Just seen a few videos on you tube and it looks the bizzo, but no idea where to get it or how and if it will work for me. Poster above who recommended, have you any more information please

    also, not sure how to install my door, I might do separate thread on that. I think I might need some sort of plate for it to sit on. Also i guess I need to work all that out before I frame the space for it to go….. any tips?

    im off then for the weekend so have 4 days (hope rain stays away) to get started with the cutting and assembling framework.

    with little to no room at the back and side, I plan to basically built each of those walls on the ground and then stand the finished product up into position.

    after that, I think I will just build the rest of the frame in position.

    I reckon I should be able to get most of the back and side wall built and into position by Sunday evening.

    lets see………



  • Registered Users Posts: 15,871 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB


    So quick update. Been busy earning the crust but got a few hours work in last weekend between the showers (and I did manage to sneak off to play golf on Monday before the heavens opened)


    so I’ve built the back wall in 2 sections. 1 section would have been way to heavy to get into place. Framework in 75*42, 11mm OSB, A breather membrane and then clad with shiplap.

    Sorry but new boards is shite and keeps flipping the photos on me.

    I’ve stood the panel up there just to see what it’s like but it’s now lying back on the ground. I’ve moved on and built the adjacent section.

    I had not used a proper design, had it all in my head and tried getting it into sketch up a few times, but it was to hard…. Lol. Anyway, when I got to side wall I didn’t really know how to approach the pitch. I knew what height I need at front, it’s high and door quite big so with a pencil and paper and ruler I tried drawing a scale to see what it would be and using a protractor from my kids school bag work out the angle required……….. I got 9.5 degrees ish! it was never gonna be right was it!!! Close but I couldn’t risk it. So the last week has also been a learning curve on sketch up again and rather than using approximate angles I decided to measure properly at a 10 degree angle and work back from the front. A good job because my back wall needed to be slightly adjusted. Arrghhhhhhh I’ve already started cutting, but not to much and thankfully it was going to be slightly shorter than originally planned so I just had to nip a couple of cm’s more of the cuts. Thank F it wasn’t to short ! Lol

    so onto the first side and that’s done and dusted now.


    the track saw was very handy to trim the edges.

    Bought a mitre saw, well worth it for this job. I do have a table in which I can mount my track saw in and could have used it, but it would have been much more time consuming.

    oh and I think I spoke last year about screws and nails and impact drivers and hammers! Well 75mm nails and I’ve realised a good framing hammer makes so much difference to the piece of sh1t I used to have. Actually it’s fun hammering the frames together.

    one more tool I bought was a good staple gun, a fantastic help for getting the membrane in place before cladding goes on.

    so here’s where I’m at now. Have the guts of 3 days now to work on it. Hopefully get a bit of assembly done tomorrow and will crack on with the rest of the walls over the weekend. I will not be assembling the visible walls on the ground, it will be much easier to do them in situ. I only did the sides like this as I have no room to get behind to clad them.




  • Registered Users Posts: 15,871 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB


    Assembly started.

    unfortunately down to 1 battery for my impact driver and it just died so back on charge. Could make it a slow day, but not a lot planned as am out this evening.

    Feckin boards and their spinning the photos! That took 4 goes, I rotated because it was uploading sideways. Then it still kept it sideways!

    anyway got it up.

    all that’s planned for today is to get the back 4 sections up and secure. Hopefully will manage that if the battery behaves itself and charges reasonably quickly.

    I do have another new toy on order. A brand spanking new impact driver and combi drill set, with 2 batteries 4&5am I think so longer drilling time, just unfortunately won’t be here till Monday when I need them most this weekend haha



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  • Registered Users Posts: 827 ✭✭✭raxy


    Is the cladding a good option for the back wall? Would you not have used some sort of pvc cladding that won't need maintenance?

    How long will the wood cladding hold up without being treated?



  • Registered Users Posts: 117 ✭✭GalwayMan74


    I was just about to say that he posted 3 hours ago and nobody has told him he's doing it wrong.

    Must be a new boards record 🤣



  • Registered Users Posts: 791 ✭✭✭CreadanLady


    You should have done the whole thing out of insulated cladding panels. They are very rigid and you would only need minimal framing to which could be done in timber. Framing on the perimeter of each wall, and one vertical half way along and a cross member half way up would be plenty. And you'd have it done in a fraction of the time without all the bolloxing around with noggins and studs and you'd have a long lasting, warm structure that won't rot and will be practically maintenance free for life.

    What you have there with the wood cladding is something that requires continual maintenance and will ultimately rot in the end. Especially the back and side that are up against the fence. The cladding and the fence will rot in no time.

    Timber clad structures in ireland are just a bad idea. They just rot in the damn environment. You'll be painting that thing with cuprinol or some other barely effective shite from woodies year in year out until the rot sets in from some inaccessible corner.

    The MFV Creadan Lady is a mussel dredger from Dunmore East.



  • Registered Users Posts: 117 ✭✭GalwayMan74


    Why would you make it out of cladding panels when you could make it out of blocks?



  • Registered Users Posts: 27,121 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    I would deffo be spraying the back timbers with something expensive and waterproof before installing them.



  • Registered Users Posts: 15,871 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB


    Jaysus yiz are all a fountain of knowledge now that I’m half way through!

    shoulda done this, that and the other!

    I enjoy woodwork and wanted to build it out of timber.

    the cladding is pressure treated, I’m aware it will require maintenance.

    anyway, good to see ya GreeBo, hope the golf is going well.

    here’s where I’m leaving it for today, off out shortly. I’ll get a bit more done over weekend


    covered with some DPM to protect from the elements till I get a roof on

    Post edited by Seve OB on


  • Registered Users Posts: 31,025 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Timber clad structures in ireland are just a bad idea. They just rot in the damn environment. You'll be painting that thing with cuprinol or some other barely effective shite from woodies year in year out until the rot sets in from some inaccessible corner.

    I disagree.

    Given appropriate choices of timber, good design and correct detailing, there's no reason why a timber structure can't last decades with little or no treatment.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Agree that timber structures & cladding work perfectly well in similar European climates (lasting hundreds of years in some cases), so I can't for the life of me understand why they couldn't also perform perfectly well here. No construction method is foolproof, as many owners of firetrap apartments and pyrite & mica infested houses can no doubt attest.

    That said, shouldn't there be a ventilation gap between the OSB/breather membrane and the cladding itself?

    And also that breather membrane looks suspiciously like a vapour membrane? Or at least some kind of membrane other than a breather membrane?



  • Registered Users Posts: 31,025 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I think technically a membrane allows selective diffusion, usually by blocking liquid and allowing vapour.

    So we have "vapour barrier" (non permeable) and "breather membrane" (permeable to vapour).

    Internal membranes (and impermeable vapour barriers) are airtight, external membranes are not (but are windproof, i.e. they will allow air through, but at low flow rates)).

    The purpose of an external membrane is to prevent cold air blowing through the structure and "stealing" the heat by convection.

    The purpose of an internal membrane is to prevent moist air diffusing though the insulation and condensing in the building fabric.

    The utility of either depends to some degree on the choice of insulation.



  • Registered Users Posts: 827 ✭✭✭raxy


    Apologies, didn't mean to start a chain reaction. I'm mulling over doing similar myself so have been going over it in my head. Your pictures so far have been motivation to actually do it *eventually)

    My post wasn't so much saying paneling is wrong, just trying to see your approach.

    My brother made a play house for his son & used a particular paint, cant remember now, to make it waterproof & wouldnt have to re-treat it. If you're interested I can check what he used



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  • Registered Users Posts: 15,871 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB




  • Registered Users Posts: 15,871 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB


    So you mentioned earlier on about insulated roofing. Thanks for that. I’ve looked at some of it on you tube and it looks good but it’s hard to find decent information on costing and more so where to buy it.

    I’ve asked you if you can please point me in the right direction already so maybe you missed it?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,803 ✭✭✭Tow


    About 20 years, the real problem is leaves and stuff getting stuck between the two walls. I speak from experience 😢

    When is the money (including lost growth) Michael Noonan took in the Pension Levy going to be paid back?



  • Registered Users Posts: 827 ✭✭✭raxy




  • Registered Users Posts: 15,871 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB


    So it seems if you take a photo in portrait mode what you need to do is flip it sideways, then save it. Then flip it back. Then save it again. Then upload it to boards 🤯


    anyway, this might explain why my build is like it is. A small lean to shed I built about 6 or 7 years ago. Similar style, similar process, though this time done a lot better.



  • Registered Users Posts: 15,871 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB



    Progress report.

    happy with how it’s going. Schoolboy error earlier and I put the OSB on the wrong side…… wasn’t a disaster but just meant that I had to lift a heavier piece into place.

    wife helped other day but had to rope a pal in earlier as these were a good bit heavier





    tired, looking forward to having to go to work tomorrow for a day off 😂🤣



  • Registered Users Posts: 791 ✭✭✭CreadanLady


    The most common manufacturers of this stuff are Kingspan and Tegral. If you wanted to buy it is small quantities you might be best getting it through a builder's providers like DPL, Chadwicks etc.

    It might be worth your while contacting Tegral or Kingspan to see would they sell you a few seconds.

    The MFV Creadan Lady is a mussel dredger from Dunmore East.



  • Registered Users Posts: 15,871 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB


    Thanks. I’ll look them up.

    can I ask you about overhangs with this stuff.

    my building is (or at least the roof should be when the walls are all up 🤣🤞) 298cm wide. it looks like this roof option comes in 1 meter widths. Will 3 be enough for me?

    I’ve a 4 meter span, would want it as close to the back wall as possible. Obviously will need to run a gutter there.

    I’ve a support beem @ 2 meters which from what I read should be enough to support any weight it’s ever likely to receive (a bit of snow really).

    I wouldn’t mind overhanging by about a foot out the front. And here is the big question, would love to put a few spot downlights into it to shine on the front of the building. Is that even possible?



  • Registered Users Posts: 791 ✭✭✭CreadanLady


    Everything is possible.

    The manufacturers also provide a plethora of flashings, fixings, and gutters and so on that go with each type of cladding profile.

    You'd have to check the spec sheet of each type of cladding profile to see what the maximum allowable clear spans between purlins would be. These are usually available from the manufacturer's website. I'd say you might even be able to find a panel that has a clear span of 4m, meaning you'd need no intermediate supports. However, the logistics of getting a 4m+ long panel into your back garden might dictate that you'd need a shorter one. But you should go for the one-length panel if you can because it'll mean you have no joints across the roof, which will be a bonus.

    Panels are often 1 or 1.2m wide. So you could make one or two of them skylight panels. And you have great skylights that are pretty much guaranteed to be watertight if install correctly, with no time gone on messing around with joinery.

    The MFV Creadan Lady is a mussel dredger from Dunmore East.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 15,871 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB


    Skylights are not necessary.

    ill be definitely going for a single length panel, won’t be an issue getting into the garden

    ive sent 2 emails other day to suppliers (not manufacturers ) one reply but it was basically €x per square meter and didn’t answer the questions I asked ☹️



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