Project bike

magicbastarder

i don't suppose there's a spare matching left crank lying around in anyone's shed? i have this available, but the non-drive side crank is missing. doesn't seem particularly worn, and is 170mm (short enough, given the bike its on is a 56cm or 58cm frame).

magicbastarder

i have to get me one of these laser jobbies. they'd make cleaning a frame so easy. (it's not about bikes, but would be so useful on one)
skip to 3:30 in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLGAMe_rYKQ

Cetyl Palmitate

magicbastarder wrote: »

i have to get me one of these laser jobbies. they'd make cleaning a frame so easy. (it's not about bikes, but would be so useful on one)
skip to 3:30 in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLGAMe_rYKQ

For someone so precise in the restoration he makes an awful job of pouring in the coffee beans.

Type 17

magicbastarder wrote: »

i have to get me one of these laser jobbies. they'd make cleaning a frame so easy.

Unless you're going to do it professionally, I'd recommend renting one (if that's possible) - they start around €4,000, and larger, industrial ones run well over €20k

Daroxtar

I found this guy down an internet rabbit hole. He's daft as a brush(exposure to solvents??) but some of his vids are really good too. Thought he might be of interest to people looking at painting their frames

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsPCQWJCHO0

magicbastarder

i have this wheel knocking about, and copped that it has what appears to be a spacer on it; it's too wide as is to fit the bike i've been fixing up; is it a case of removing or replacing the spacer to avoid having to cold set?
and yes, i do appreciate that i may have to re-dish the wheel, but that will be dipping my toe in wheel building without starting from the very start.

iwillhtfu

Is there a spacer on the opposite side? Could you remove equal amounts from either side to get the desired spacing?

magicbastarder

i guess there's a couple of mm possibly to be gained here, but i don't know if there's a standard offset between the smallest sprocket and the stays?

cletus

That's a big block of a spacer. Can you measure the width? It might be possible to make a series of smaller spacers that fill the same space, giving you a bit more play.

If you give me dimensions, and are willing to wait until schools are back in operation, I'll be happy to make up and send on whatever width spacers are required

magicbastarder

much appreciated! i'll measure tomorrow to try to figure out the tolerances i'm playing with (width?)

cletus

magicbastarder wrote: »

much appreciated! i'll measure tomorrow to try to figure out the tolerances i'm playing with (width?)

If you find the overall width of that single spacer, I can make 3, 4, 5 spacers that fill the same overall space. 2mm, 3mm, 4mm etc.

What is need it the overall width, o.d. and i.d.

Cetyl Palmitate

Daroxtar wrote: »

I found this guy down an internet rabbit hole. He's daft as a brush(exposure to solvents??) but some of his vids are really good too. Thought he might be of interest to people looking at painting their frames

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsPCQWJCHO0

Praise the lord for YouTube giving these mad scientists a platform.

This guy reminds me of the tg4 series, 'hands', where skilled craftsmen would explain how they work.

cletus

Cetyl Palmitate wrote: »

Praise the lord for YouTube giving these mad scientists a platform.

This guy reminds me of the tg4 series, 'hands', where skilled craftsmen would explain how they work.

Sorry, but hands is far superior to this, and if I may say so, about 92% of all of YouTube

Cetyl Palmitate

cletus wrote: »

Sorry, but hands is far superior to this, and if I may say so, about 92% of all of YouTube

Agree totally. Production values, historical significance and legacy are clearly far higher in something like the series referenced.

The comparison I was trying to make is more towards slightly obscure skillsets and/or characters being given a stage. Also the feeling that, after watching, you feel like you know a little bit about the details involved.

cletus

Cetyl Palmitate wrote: »

Agree totally. Production values, historical significance and legacy are clearly far higher in something like the series referenced.

The comparison I was trying to make is more towards slightly obscure skillsets and/or characters being given a stage. Also the feeling that, after watching, you feel like you know a little bit about the details involved.

Sorry, watching Brown Vs Condit, and unsure who I want to shout for.

Yeah, I was being a little facetious, to be fair, but there's something about the fact that those people were displaying their skills to the camera without any idea that it might result in views, likes, clicks, or any other aspect of social media

Cetyl Palmitate

cletus wrote: »

Sorry, watching Brown Vs Condit, and unsure who I want to shout for.

Yeah, I was being a little facetious, to be fair, but there's something about the fact that those people were displaying their skills to the camera without any idea that it might result in views, likes, clicks, or any other aspect of social media

Point taken once more.

'hands' was made in a time before YouTube was common place. I am not at all trying to directly compare them as that would only end up insulting the creators of one or the other.

I will say that before youtube, if I decided to build a currach, for eg, 'hands' would be a good source of info. Nowadays there are probably currach builders with step by step instructions on YouTube.

Edit: aside from actually going to a currach builder and learning the craft!

magicbastarder

i used to know (well, my dad did) one of the people around whom one of the 'hands' documentaries was made; he made dutch style spinning wheels. he died years ago but his son still does it; albeit that there's pretty much no demand for them now, except repairs and restorations.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zHRyY7cr1Y

also worth watching are the recent 'handmade' series on BBC4 should they be repeated.

magicbastarder

so i had a look at the locknuts on the axle on the wheel i have spare (the one set up for 130mm) and it seems the locknuts are simply about 3mm thicker than on the axle from the broken wheel set up for 125mm; so a simple swap of the locknuts might be enough to bring the 130mm axle down to 125mm:



now, that might leave the freewheel a little too close to the stays on the drive side, but it does seem the locknut on the 130mm wheel *is* sitting much further proud than on the 125mm one.
cept i've run into a minor issue - as you can see in the photo below, the dust cap on that axle seems to be attached to the cone rather than the hub (not a configuration i'm used to) but it seems to be the case on the drive side too - so i can't actually remove the axle to unbind the locknut and cone on the drive side as the dust cap is captured on the cone, inside the freewheel and i don't have that specific tool to remove that freewheel.



i *could* try clamping the axle itself but i risk damaging the threads. have left a bit of GT85 soaking into it overnight to see if that helps loosen things up.

magicbastarder

starting to some together now. few bits left to sort (the chain being an obvious one). i have brown leather effect bar tape to wrap the bars, but won't do that till i'm happy with the position of the brakes.

big thanks to 8valve for the chainwheel.

iwillhtfu

That's really clean, I like it a lot.

magicbastarder

just to put some costs together:
bike €50
saddle €50 (bought secondhand on here)
paint €15 (less, considering i only used a small fraction of the tin of primer)
bar tape €15
brake levers and derailleurs €35
handlebar €10
cables, housing and a few other bits'n'bobs from the LBS €15
so €190 so far, which doesn't include the chain. i think the mudguards which came with it are probably too grubby to use, and i want a chrome carrier for it rather than the black anodised one which it arrived with. so that'll be extra too.

the wheels came from a different rescue, the back wheel was split on the bike when i got it (didn't spot it till i started to clean it)
also, chainwheel was postage and a small bit of beer money for 8valve.

Peter T

Not bad. All for the cost of a night out

8valve

magicbastarder wrote: »

just to put some costs together:
bike €50
saddle €50 (bought secondhand on here)
paint €15 (less, considering i only used a small fraction of the tin of primer)
bar tape €15
brake levers and derailleurs €35
handlebar €10
cables, housing and a few other bits'n'bobs from the LBS €15
so €190 so far, which doesn't include the chain. i think the mudguards which came with it are probably too grubby to use, and i want a chrome carrier for it rather than the black anodised one which it arrived with. so that'll be extra too.

the wheels came from a different rescue, the back wheel was split on the bike when i got it (didn't spot it till i started to clean it)
also, chainwheel was postage and a small bit of beer money for 8valve.

That's a nice little project for a relatively small outlay.


Also, don't forget...the satisfaction of having done it all yourself is priceless.