Project bike

magicbastarder

cheers! that's useful - as you mention, whether the hubs are shot (as yet unknown) is potentially going to kill the idea dead.

CoBo55

Looks like this thread has become a wheel building tome, pity as I was enjoying it.

iwillhtfu

CoBo55 wrote: »

Looks like this thread has become a wheel building tome, pity as I was enjoying it.

Tough crowd in here.

It's just one aspect of a build and imo the most difficult to undetake.

magicbastarder

magicbastarder wrote: »

note the nut welded to the right tine. also i've not thought fasr enough ahead about what's involved with removing the chrome (or if it's necessary).

haven't started to tackle the fork yet - the chrome is way past the 'scrub it with some balled up tinfoil' approach - not sure how well trying to abrade it off would work?

iwillhtfu

magicbastarder wrote: »

haven't started to tackle the fork yet - the chrome is way past the 'scrub it with some balled up tinfoil' approach - not sure how well trying to abrade it off would work?

Did you try the tinfoil? I'm always amazed at how well it works.

I haven't used these guys but they seem to cover all bases if needed. http://www.wechrome.com/

magicbastarder

i haven't tried it yet - as you can see, the rust is coming through quite pronounced on the left tine and i'd assumed it was terminal for the chrome. will give it a shot in the morning though. also have a good supply of 0000 steel wool, is that something i should let near chrome?

iwillhtfu

magicbastarder wrote: »

i haven't tried it yet - as you can see, the rust is coming through quite pronounced on the left tine and i'd assumed it was terminal for the chrome. will give it a shot in the morning though. also have a good supply of 0000 steel wool, is that something i should let near chrome?

I'd try the tinfoil first if that doesn't clear the rust the chrome is shot anyway and will need to be redone or painted. You might need to use a few balls of tinfoil but I'd say it'll clean up but the left leg does look pretty bad.

8valve

tallaght powder coating do chrome finish powdercoat, which is quite presentable, but obviously not as durable as genuine chrome plating.

magicbastarder

got the non-drive side of the BB out with less fuss than expected, just waiting for some oil to penetrate the drive side before i tackle it. i would be very surprised if it's italian thread (given it's a british brand) but was just checking - the width of the non-drive side threads is just a shade under 35mm (i assume this is the dimension i should be measuring) which would confirm it's english. i think.

obviously i have visions of sweating over the frame trying to get the thing out by turning it the wrong way.

Type 17

magicbastarder wrote: »

...the width of the non-drive side threads is just a shade under 35mm (i assume this is the dimension i should be measuring) which would confirm it's english...

English thread is 1.37" diameter which is about 34.8mm. Chances of a Reynolds 531 Falcon frame not being an English BB thread are miniscule.

cletus

magicbastarder wrote: »

got the non-drive side of the BB out with less fuss than expected, just waiting for some oil to penetrate the drive side before i tackle it. i would be very surprised if it's italian thread (given it's a british brand) but was just checking - the width of the non-drive side threads is just a shade under 35mm (i assume this is the dimension i should be measuring) which would confirm it's english. i think.

obviously i have visions of sweating over the frame trying to get the thing out by turning it the wrong way.

Hmm, uses precision measuring device. Result? 'a shade under 35mm'

magicbastarder

Got it out anyways. I would hesitate to call an electronic vernier calipers (with dead batteries) bought in lidl 'a precision instrument'!

cletus

magicbastarder wrote: »

Got it out anyways. I would hesitate to call an electronic vernier calipers (with dead batteries) bought in lidl 'a precision instrument'!

Off topic, but I've always wondered about the accuracy of those Lidl Vernier calipers in comparison to a good one

iwillhtfu

cletus wrote: »

Off topic, but I've always wondered about the accuracy of those Lidl Vernier calipers in comparison to a good one

Like everything else in Lidl, not quite the same but close enough.

magicbastarder

i'm making all these mistakes so you don't have to. don't cut the spokes til *after* you've removed the freewheel and broken the hub down.

8valve

magicbastarder wrote: »

i'm making all these mistakes so you don't have to. don't cut the spokes til *after* you've removed the freewheel and broken the hub down.

oooooooooh.



some lessons in life are learned the hard way.


I feel your pain.


I finished painting a frame today.


Then dropped it.


FML, as the kids say.

Blanchy90

I finally got around to drilling a small hole in the bb to stop the crack getting any worse. Next step is to paint it and start reassembly.

At this rate I might have it done for xmas

magicbastarder

there's a chap i know to say hello to near me who was telling me a few years ago he has a mercian pro in the attic for the last 30 years, with a busted chainstay. i told him mercian pro will repair any frame they've ever made, must stop him if i see him again to see if he did anything about it.

magicbastarder

Blanchy90 wrote: »

Next step is to paint it and start reassembly.

what approach are you using for painting?

Blanchy90

magicbastarder wrote: »

what approach are you using for painting?

Probably just car spray cans. I have some primer left in the shed so I'll see how that goes on. it it turns out ok I'll get a couple of cans in halfords and go that route. If it turns out crap I'll sand it back and go for rustoleum or something similar.

magicbastarder

i have to yet figure out how to deal with the chrome on the fork i have (which turns out to be a tange one). it's too far gone to rescue, but it's not the sort of thing paint stripper can remove.

cletus

magicbastarder wrote: »

i have to yet figure out how to deal with the chrome on the fork i have (which turns out to be a tange one). it's too far gone to rescue, but it's not the sort of thing paint stripper can remove.

You've a couple of options, none of which are particularly easy. The safest way is to media blast it

Other options are hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid), but its very corrosive, or sodium hydroxide (lye). Do not use this with aluminium

You could try using chromic acid and electrolysis, much like the rust removal I've posted here before.

Lastly, I've heard brake fluid will strip chrome if left overnight, I've never tried it, but if you do, wear gloves, that stuff is unplessant to deal with


edited to add: all the above chemicals are unpleasant to deal with, so take proper precautions if you go that route

magicbastarder

yeah, i was wondering was it even just a case of creating a key in it for paint to adhere to.

cletus

magicbastarder wrote: »

yeah, i was wondering was it even just a case of creating a key in it for paint to adhere to.

Dunno, to be honest. Never tried. I'd imagine you could, but you'd need a good keyed surface, and you'd want to clean it really well before priming it. Good quality primer too (anti rust, so you don't rust from underneath the paint)

Make sure you wear some sort of mask or respirator, can't imagine chrome dust is any too good for your lungs

8valve

magicbastarder wrote: »

yeah, i was wondering was it even just a case of creating a key in it for paint to adhere to.

Proper chrome plating is harder than Vinnie Jones in a bad mood.


Find a local blasters and get it back to bare metal; then paint.


Alternatively, Tallaght powder coating do a chrome finish powder which isn't bad.

iwillhtfu

magicbastarder wrote: »

yeah, i was wondering was it even just a case of creating a key in it for paint to adhere to.

As far as I recall a lot of colnago frames are chromed entirely and then painted over so I can't see paint not adhering being an issue on a prepared surface.

Alternatively there's a company call wedochrome or something like that, they chrome a lot of bikes and vintage car parts so should be a good finish.

jimm

iwillhtfu wrote: »

As far as I recall a lot of colnago frames are chromed entirely and then painted over so I can't see paint not adhering being an issue on a prepared surface.

That would be chromovelato. Battaglin do it also. "Painted" with colored laquer!

https://officinabattaglin.com/video-how-a-cromovelato-steel-frame-is-actually-made/

I am currently restoring an Olmo Competition. The fork was originally chrome plated but is in poor condition. I sanded it as best I could with 400 grit wet & dry paper and applied 2 coats of etch primer and will apply finish coat(s) to match frame colour. Primer and finish colour obtained from Vinny Byrne. Keeping fingers crossed that primer will adhere properly.

magicbastarder

when did dunlop stop making inner tubes in ireland?

cletus

Dunlop shut up shop in Cork back in '83

magicbastarder

well, there's your answer to how long inner tubes last. it still holds air.