Project bike

8valve

Bike shops will stock packs of bearings held in a 'cage'; much handier than flootering about with loose balls.....oooooh matron!

Bring your headset cups and one of the old bearings with you and they should be able to sort you out.

dave_o_brien

I thought I'd contribute with my own project here. Inspired by the above, I picked up a modern(ish) steel frame and decided to personalise to a larger degree than I normally would:









Happy so far. Plan is to build in mostly Ultegra 6800 from current bikes and rebuild them another day.

magicbastarder

nice!
where did you get the frame?

dave_o_brien

magicbastarder wrote: »

nice!
where did you get the frame?

I got it through adverts.ie 2nd hand. A load of them were made in around 2012 for a shop in London, but the brand seemed to fade from view shortly thereafter.

dave_o_brien

Quick update below

cletus

Looks great so far

dave_o_brien

cletus wrote: »

Looks great so far

Thanks! Happy so far. Not as light as my TCR but far from heavy. Besides, I'm no featherweight myself!

iwillhtfu

Duck tape was probably not the best idea for the bands but it kind of worked out. If you haven't cleared coated it yet you could wet sand to smooth that transition a bit. Taking the tape off while it's still wet will help also.

A nice colour though, well done.

dave_o_brien

iwillhtfu wrote: »

Duck tape was probably not the best idea for the bands but it kind of worked out. If you haven't cleared coated it yet you could wet sand to smooth that transition a bit. Taking the tape off while it's still wet will help also.

A nice colour though, well done.

Yeah, I'd do a few things differently now alright! I did sand the transitions a bit and clear coated alright. It's imperfect in terms of the finish but it's not bad at all.

dave_o_brien

It's functional! Still a few bits to finish but it works

cletus

Lovely job, really like that colour

dave_o_brien

cletus wrote: »

Lovely job, really like that colour

Montana Tennessee, if you're ever tempted

jimm

dave_o_brien wrote: »

It's functional! Still a few bits to finish but it works

Bar tape, a few cable end crimp thingies and switch your front qr skewer to the opp side . Does everyone put both on the LHS, or is it only the rear one that needs to be on the left?

magicbastarder

I always set mine to match the back wheel.

Type 17

Rear skewer levers were on the non-drive side to keep hands away from sharp/oily bits, and the front is traditionally kept the same for orderliness, but there is no technical or safety reason for the front to be on the left.

Disc brakes and some thru-axle designs may now mean a right-side front on some bikes, but even then, they probably could have been designed the other way if required.

dave_o_brien

jimm wrote: »

Bar tape, a few cable end crimp thingies and switch your front qr skewer to the opp side . Does everyone put both on the LHS, or is it only the rear one that needs to be on the left?

Haha! I know! I actually can't remember spotting it when installing the wheel but then looked at the photo and cringed!

Also needs bottle cages and a garmin mount. Stem may be 10mm short too, but we'll see.

dave_o_brien

Tape, cages and garmin on.

Fugs!!

That's lovely.

magicbastarder

picked up brake levers and a front and rear derailleur for my bike today. the rear derailleur was utterly caked in long dried crud, but i have it clean now; but have run into a problem in that the bolt for the cable clamp is stuck tight. it started to round when i tried a spanner on it and similar when i tried a screwdriver. i guess it's just oil and time i need?
the chap who sold it to me is happy to take it back if there are any problems but i don't want to give up easily on it.

Effects

Would you try a vice grips rather than a spanner?

Type 17

A good-quality 6-point spanner (not an open-end or 12-point spanner) or 6-point socket is what is needed for a (relatively) soft-metal bolt with a shallow head like that.

Lube it with thin lubricant, leave it a few hours or overnight, and then jerk it open, rather than just applying continuous force.

magicbastarder

Forgot to post - got it out last night. Left some oil soaking in for about 12 hours then got a vice grips at it.

cletus

A good tip to go along with type 17's advice, once you have a good fitting spanner on the bolt, take the slop out of it, and give the end of the spanner a good tap with a soft faced mallet/hammer*. The impact is often enough to free the fastener.





*If you don't have soft baby hands from working in an office all day, the heel of you hand will probably suffice

magicbastarder

yep, i gave it a quick jerk rather than leaning on it; figured it was galvanic corrosion which needed to be broken. main concern was shearing the head too much and making a mess of it.

Type 17

cletus wrote: »

...The impact is often enough to free the fastener...

That's the key - jerking or impacting a fastener is more effective - that's why car tyre/repair shops use air driven impact wrenches - the rapid clattering you hear is a rotary hammer inside the tool striking the chuck/socket to jerk the bolt open.

Using a continuous force (pulling hard on a long bar, etc) is more likely to cause the metal of the bolt to stretch/tear and then shear off (especially on smaller and non hi-tensile rated stuff, like on bicycles).
You can still use a long bar on the bigger stuff on a bike, but remember to jerk it, rather than just pulling hard continuously.

In the absence of an impact gun, but with a stuck pedal or BB cup, I've found that leaning on a long bar/spanner with a foot and then hitting the tool with a hammer near your foot (careful!) is more effective than just hitting the tool, as it increases the peak torque of the hammer-strike.

8valve

Type 17 wrote: »

In the absence of an impact gun, but with a stuck pedal or BB cup, I've found that leaning on a long bar/spanner with a foot and then hitting the tool with a hammer near your foot (careful!) is more effective than just hitting the tool, as it increases the peak torque of the hammer-strike.

Massive amount of foul language also helps.

Type 17

8valve wrote: »

Massive amount of foul language also helps.

I never said that it didn't

magicbastarder

where i am now with the bike. really only two things left to sort, but they're the bigger ones. wheels and crankset. it's 125mm at the rear dropouts, so i'd have to cold set to put a modern wheel on so i'm really wondering about making trouble for myself and seeing if i can rebuild a new rim on the rear hub myself.

Mark in the rediscovery centre in ballymun sold me the derailleurs and brake levers (suntour and weinmann) and clamp to get a rail mounted saddle onto the seatpost.

cletus

Looking great MB.

Love the Vernier caliper just creeping into the bottom of the picture

8valve

great progress.