Machinery Photo/Discussion Thread II

blue5000

FintanMcluskey wrote: »

Mika Hannu?

https://fiatagri90-sarja.vilkasstore.com/epages/FiatAgri90-sarja.sf/fi_FI/?ObjectPath=/Shops/2017052904/Categories/Imprint

I don't think that's him, the lad I bought from only does hydraulics.

Found them, Metkoff, if anybody needs a spoolpack made up for themselves, good place to look.

https://metkoff.fi/about-us/

Nekarsulm

Great, thanks very much.
I'll email him a d see what we can do.
Yes, that's the same pump as mine, and the power steering is a separate pump but driven off the same gear in the front timing case.

Mooooo

Reading the journal there an article about a lad with a jcb skidsteer, fcuk me nearly fell off the seat when I saw the price, starting from 65k+vat!

Morris Moss

Mooooo wrote: »

Reading the journal there an article about a lad with a jcb skidsteer, fcuk me nearly fell off the seat when I saw the price, starting from 65k+vat!

Absolute madness, you'd get a serious loader for that money, never saw the appeal of a skid steer, any ones I drove you'd be broke up from after a few mins

ganmo

Morris Moss wrote: »

Absolute madness, you'd get a serious loader for that money, never saw the appeal of a skid steer, any ones I drove you'd be broke up from after a few mins

They have their uses, especially in concrete yards and sheds. Would love one here for cleaning out the sheds here.

kevthegaff

I have one I bought for 8k 5years ago, it feeds everything, scrapes all yards and cLean out all sheds. Its quicker than a normal loader at all those tasks, agree tho they are abit shakey..

Mooooo

Ah yeah they have their uses, but for 65k plus price point I'd find other things

kevthegaff

Mooooo wrote: »

Ah yeah they have their uses, but for 65k plus price point I'd find other things

You will get a 5 yr old skidsteer for 15-20k, for same age bracket of a pivot steer yer taking 50-60k. I'd argue skidsteers give less trouble and are miser on diesel

White Clover

kevthegaff wrote: »

You will get a 5 yr old skidsteer for 15-20k, for same age bracket of a pivot steer yer taking 50-60k. I'd argue skidsteers give less trouble and are miser on diesel

What size is yours Kev? Can it handle a bale of silage ok?

kevthegaff

White Clover wrote: »

What size is yours Kev? Can it handle a bale of silage ok?

It can but shes rocking, mines only 40hp. Very simple reliable machine

kevthegaff

Slurry coming up the shaft of the agitator and out where the PTO is. Is it a big job to change the seals, or should I just buy a new one. Shes a conor and around 9 years old

Reggie.

kevthegaff wrote: »

Slurry coming up the shaft of the agitator and out where the PTO is. Is it a big job to change the seals, or should I just buy a new one. Shes a conor and around 9 years old

Could be better just to get a new gearbox if slurry got into it

blue5000

kevthegaff wrote: »

Slurry coming up the shaft of the agitator and out where the PTO is. Is it a big job to change the seals, or should I just buy a new one. Shes a conor and around 9 years old

Not a Conor, but it happens an odd time here if the bottom of the spout gets blocked, up above the fins. Doesn't get into the gearbox though. At least it doesn't get in the back window. Has it come through the gearbox Kev?

kevthegaff

blue5000 wrote: »

Not a Conor, but it happens an odd time here if the bottom of the spout gets blocked, up above the fins. Doesn't get into the gearbox though. At least it doesn't get in the back window. Has it come through the gearbox Kev?

Dont think went into gearbox, fin abit loose so bearing I'd say

hopeso

I don't see how it could possibly get into the gearbox....

Shouldn't be a very big job if you need to change the bearing in the bottom. There's a ring of bolts holding on a plate at the bottom that need to come off. Then disconnect the shaft at the universal joint under the gearbox and pull the whole shaft out through the bottom. I'd say Connor would talk you through it, and tell you what you need to fix it, if you phoned them.

emaherx

kevthegaff wrote: »

Dont think went into gearbox, fin abit loose so bearing I'd say

The propeller at the bottom of a lot of agitators can feel a little loose at the best of times as normally it's not a bearing at the bottom but a plastic bush, as the plastic wears it gets looser but it's not a real concern until there is quite a bit of play. The plastic bush is a fairly straightforward replacement and after 9 years it's probably due, but definitely not a reason to consider a new machine.

Avns1s

kevthegaff wrote: »

Slurry coming up the shaft of the agitator and out where the PTO is. Is it a big job to change the seals, or should I just buy a new one. Shes a conor and around 9 years old

Did this recently on my Hi Spec agitator. Just 2 bolts secure a tube over the shaft to the impeller. Undo these and slide that tube up along the shaft. A bit of poking with a screwdriver and pliers to get out the old plastic bushing. Slide in the new one (Something around €20 ish) and replace the tube over the shaft. I'd say 15 mins had it sorted.

Not a Conor and I'm not familiar with the Conor but I'm sure it's not too dissimilar as these bushings are a wear item and need replacing fairly frequently.

westlander

Avns1s wrote: »

Did this recently on my Hi Spec agitator. Just 2 bolts secure a tube over the shaft to the impeller. Undo these and slide that tube up along the shaft. A bit of poking with a screwdriver and pliers to get out the old plastic bushing. Slide in the new one (Something around €20 ish) and replace the tube over the shaft. I'd say 15 mins had it sorted.

Not a Conor and I'm not familiar with the Conor but I'm sure it's not too dissimilar as these bushings are a wear item and need replacing fairly frequently.

Use plenty of washing up liquid when fitting the new rubber bearing. I was replacing one on an nc and the washing up liquid made a huge difference when fitting the new one

kevthegaff

Theres two holes a feet up from the propeller and there was rubber coming out, I'd say that's the rubber housing. I'll go at it tommorrow or thursday. Sound lads!

kevthegaff

Would I be as well off to replace all the bearings while I have it out..

emaherx

kevthegaff wrote: »

Would I be as well off to replace all the bearings while I have it out..

There is probably none to replace. Assuming the Conor is similar to others it's just the plastic bush at the bottom. Then a hardy spicer at the top of the shaft connected to the gearbox. Assuming you've kept it greased it should be perfect.

dzer2

emaherx wrote: »

There is probably none to replace. Assuming the Conor is similar to others it's just the plastic bush at the bottom. Then a hardy spicer at the top of the shaft connected to the gearbox. Assuming you've kept it greased it should be perfect.

Nearly sure the Conor is the same aa an Abbey it's a rubber bush with groves you will pick one up at any agri parts store. Wrap it around the shaft you might have to cut one piece off depending on the size of the housing

kevthegaff

emaherx wrote: »

There is probably none to replace. Assuming the Conor is similar to others it's just the plastic bush at the bottom. Then a hardy spicer at the top of the shaft connected to the gearbox. Assuming you've kept it greased it should be perfect.

What's grease? Lol

emaherx

kevthegaff wrote: »

What's grease? Lol

Well sure, if you can buy a new machine everytime a bearing rattles then you probably don't need grease

kevthegaff

emaherx wrote: »

Well sure, if you can buy a new machine everytime a bearing rattles then you probably don't need grease

Ah no it's funny, alas around here would be rough on machines. Was doing something one day with a mower and alad ask him about grease, and he asked what's grease lol

Nekarsulm

Some have a kind of rubber bushing around the bottom of the shaft, that's just a flat piece of rubber with deep ribs in it.
Wrapped around the foot of the shaft and pushed down into the housing, and a cap screwed down afterwards to keep it in place. When the impeller starts rattling, that bushing is wore out.

kevthegaff

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Some have a kind of rubber bushing around the bottom of the shaft, that's just a flat piece of rubber with deep ribs in it.
Wrapped around the foot of the shaft and pushed down into the housing, and a cap screwed down afterwards to keep it in place. When the impeller starts rattling, that bushing is wore out.

So.i should start opening at the propeller first?

emaherx

kevthegaff wrote: »

So.i should start opening at the propeller first?

Here's a manual for a Conor agitator, don't know if it's like yours but it's probably similar.

Page 14 has the instructions to replace the rubber bearing as they are calling it.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.conoreng.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Megamix-2016.-Manual-OB.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjP6PTBq7_tAhXLURUIHX3BC1AQFjADegQIBhAB&usg=AOvVaw27LGi4xPGwGAcrgnN1UW-Q

And the rubber bearing
https://www.dhfarmmachinery.com/products/bearing-rubber-slurry-pump-geg11043.html

kevthegaff

emaherx wrote: »

Here's a manual for a Conor agitator, don't know if it's like yours but it's probably similar.

Page 14 has the instructions to replace the rubber bearing as they are calling it.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.conoreng.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Megamix-2016.-Manual-OB.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjP6PTBq7_tAhXLURUIHX3BC1AQFjADegQIBhAB&usg=AOvVaw27LGi4xPGwGAcrgnN1UW-Q

And the rubber bearing
https://www.dhfarmmachinery.com/products/bearing-rubber-slurry-pump-geg11043.html

Ya that's the rubber that came out

cjpm

kevthegaff wrote: »

Ya that's the rubber that came out

Its always the case Kev, "If the rubber splits - you're fcuked"