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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 532 ✭✭✭Mr. Cats


    Have been using the aerothans and no issue with valve for co2 (think it’s metal). They are pricey though.

    For me the main advantage is really in using them for spares due to the space saving. I’m not bothered about the weight saving overall but they are seriously small when packed down compared to a regular tube.

    Would using a metal valve extender on the plastic valve help with the co2 freeze?



  • Registered Users Posts: 215 ✭✭vintcerf


    aerothans are quality, the stuff I use ... well not so much lol. I'll try with a valve extender to see if it makes a difference. might be in my head but i just like the feel of tpu vs butyl.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,760 ✭✭✭cletus


    Right folks. Young fella has a second hand BMX bike. I need to open the lock ring on the rear cog, and it takes a pin spanner.

    How would I know which colour Park Tool pin spanner I need

    Here's a photo to help. It doesn't take the 4 prong freewheel tool


    Post edited by cletus on


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,760 ✭✭✭cletus


    So, to answer my own question, according to the Park Tool website, certain models of this freewheel don't have an adequate receiver for tooling to remove them.

    So you end up taking the thing apart to remove it, then replacing with a new one.

    Long story short, it's the red pin spanner I need.



  • Registered Users Posts: 51 ✭✭Bluejohn1


    So I'm thinking now to just get an 11-40 cs-m7000, new chain and potential wolftooth roadlink DM. Good few have gone this route.

    Just I'm a bit confused about the roadlink. My nuroad race dm hanger already seems to extend from the frame by a good bit. Would it not be huge with the roadlink? She's pretty dirty at the moment and mainly used for getting the oldest to school 😅




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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,760 ✭✭✭cletus


    Has my first puncture that required a plug today (running tubeless)

    Found it hard to get the strip into the hole I'd created. It's one of the thicker black strips. Would it be worth buying some of the brown ones, as they look thinner?

    Post edited by cletus on


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,153 ✭✭✭JMcL


    Not bike, but Garmin Edge 530.

    The barometric sensor has gone haywire, producing elevation profiles like:


    Whereas corrected it looks like:

    Garmin recommend running it under water and not to poke anything into the holes in the back, but I cant see anything blocking the 2 holes on the back, so while I haven't tried the running water yet (keep forgetting but will give it a go now). I had something similar happen intermittently with my old 520, but it always just seemed to go wonky for about 10 minutes, then sort itself out.

    Anybody had experience of similar and get it sorted? It's still under warranty for the next 5 months or so, so wondering if I should start arguing the toss with Garmin at this stage



  • Registered Users Posts: 483 ✭✭Antipathetic


    This is loosely bike-related, but where is the best place to stock up on reliable CR2032 batteries?

    I have a Stages smart bike that gives power readings from two independent power meters in the crank arms. Currently, I'm facing an issue with batteries draining quickly. I'm uncertain if it's a physical problem with the power meters, if they're misreporting the charge, or if I've accidentally purchased a bad batch of fake batteries from two different sources and manufacturers (Sony and Panasonic).

    For now, I can only eliminate one variable. Could someone recommend a reliable supplier or brand through Amazon?

    I'm heading to the UK later this week.

    Don't let the terrorists in Israel win. Please donate to UNRWA now!

    https://donate.unrwa.org/-landing-page/en_EN



  • Registered Users Posts: 14,561 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu




  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,223 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    The IKEA ones are dirt cheap but they burn through very quickly in my experience (n=1)



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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,814 ✭✭✭what_traffic


    Have a NEW e-bike, had to replace cable between motor and battery after it got damaged. Battery is also used for the bike lights. Motor is working again but lights are not. Any recommendations on a cheapish amp meter so can see if the current is been sent on the new cable?



  • Registered Users Posts: 483 ✭✭Antipathetic


    Probably the easiest way would be to use a multimeter such as this one where you place the wire in the middle and it should keep you a good estimation of the amount of amps flowing through the wire.

    You can use an ordinary multimeter although that is more complicated since you need to connect the battery and motor in a series where the current flows through the multimeter.

    Don't let the terrorists in Israel win. Please donate to UNRWA now!

    https://donate.unrwa.org/-landing-page/en_EN



  • Registered Users Posts: 323 ✭✭Drake66


    Has anyone ever had the rim separate on a rear campag zonda wheel? I have attached a picture of the damage. It happened suddenly yesterday on a spin and caused the tyre to blowout. I don't know what caused it. The wheel only has about 8 thousand kilometers on it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,153 ✭✭✭JMcL


    Wow. I'm assuming it's rim brake. Is there a possibility there was a small stone got embedded in the brake pad and ate through it? I did have something similar happen on a cheap beater with v brakes years ago when I didn't know any better (or less charitably to myself didn't pay enough attention) and let the brake pad wear down too much so that some metal bit of the caliper came in contact with the braking track and made very short work of it. I don't recall there being any telltale screeching



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,188 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Seen it happen before. It usually happens when the rim is worn too thin. Rim brake wheels will wear out over time and the rate of wear is accelerated in winter when grit gets caught in the brake pads. It acts like sandpaper and wears away the rim. Can you take a photo of the braking track? Is it an old wheel?



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,188 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Most rims have wear indicator holes in them. Once the rim wears down and the holes are no longer visible, that’s when the wheels should be replaced.



  • Registered Users Posts: 45 DrumcDub1


    Can anyone recommend a decent CO2 valve/pump? Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 323 ✭✭Drake66


    Cheers I brought it to the bike shop and he said the braking surface was fairly worn alright. The wheel was only 3 years old. I thought I would have gotten another season out of it



  • Registered Users Posts: 45 DrumcDub1


    Stripped the head of a bolt when adjusting brake calipers, any tips on how to address? Disc rubbing but can't get the bolt loose now 😭



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,760 ✭✭✭cletus


    Presume it's an Allen head? If you can get a torx bit that's slightly too big and (gently) hammer it in, you might be able to get it to turn.


    Otherwise, if you have, or can get, a Dremel tool, you can cut a slot for a flat head screw driver in the head of the fastener.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 45 DrumcDub1


    Thank you! Don't suppose you know how I could source a replacement bolt by any chance? Running DI2 160mm rotors



  • Registered Users Posts: 796 ✭✭✭devonp


    had same prob with my 830, contacted Garmin support , EU (not uk) by phone, got a refurb unit FOC after sending back old unit to their distributor here in ireland JDM? in bray. garmin will send you a link for a UPS label to do this .. u pack it up (just the head unit) and after about 3 weeks ur refub should arrive. that particular problem is well known ....support will ask for the serial number on the broken unit

    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058317002/contact-garmin-support/p1



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,153 ✭✭✭JMcL


    Cheers for that and the link to your original thread. I'll get on to them so



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,190 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    I'm planning a new gravel build and considering trying SRAM Rival AXS. I'm not sure if I want 1x or 2x yet but considering buying a 1x groupset to start off.

    Just wondering if I did buy a full 1x groupset, if a 2x conversion is possible in the future (with new FD and crankset), or if I would also need a new shifter?

    I'm not used to SRAM at all but for example with a Shimano GRX groupset, if you go 1x the left shifter doesn't shift



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,814 ✭✭✭what_traffic



    Simple connectors (took off the plastic casing) did the job - then wrapped with shrinking cable, cables were initially connected by rubbing the wires together and they were at right angles to the flow of current which I suspect was reason lights not working.



  • Registered Users Posts: 51 ✭✭Bluejohn1


    Little update, fitted a CS-M7000 on the bike. Still same chain and length 114 I think, but needed a longer b screw to push the derailleur for the 40. Bit ghetto and I'd only want to use the first 7 or so gears in the small ring the last last 7 or so in the big ring. Derailleur looks mad how far its out from the cassette on some gears but shifting is grand, maybe not as smooth as i'd like but could probably spend longer re-indexing.

    Have a new chain which would probs help with not needing a longer b screw...




  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,223 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    More an opinion than a maintainence thread, I want to get a fixed wheel for my commute. Is there anyone with any experience with the Gipiemme Track Wheels. I remember them as PXs budget buy ins but no sense of if they will be any use https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/gipiemme-pista-fixed-wheel-set/138881863/p?queryID=da65f4d8e4023a01b8fa996ae030cd15&buscador_search

    The other option is a set of DT Swiss 1800 but they are half the price of the bike. and it is only for commuting.



  • Registered Users Posts: 337 ✭✭McHardcore


    Just to close out on this, I contacted Giant Dublin about replacing the freehub when it failed less than a year old. They said that the inners of the freehub are not servicable. They suggested that it may have failed due to the way I washed the bike, i.e. using Muc Off and washing up liquid. They needed to see the bike in person. To get the job over and done with I just called into a local bike store and ordered a replacement freehub off a local Giant store for 40 quid. As its a commuter bike I couldnt go without it even for one day, which would mean repairing it myself.

    Thankfully, the bike is now back and running again after receiving the new freehub.



  • Registered Users Posts: 880 ✭✭✭nicksnikita




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  • Registered Users Posts: 926 ✭✭✭Utter Consternation


    Forgot to put the torque washer back on the rear wheel of the bike after fixing a puncture. Will i wreck it if i cycle it?


    I've an issue taking the bloody wheel off again, because i stripped a bolt holding another torque washer in place (electric bike).



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