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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 108 ✭✭Inforapenny




    Thanks both. Correct @at1withmyself there was another bolt (not showing in my original pic) that needed to be removed.

    I did remove the bars. Should that extra bit circled in red in the first pic still be there as part of the original handlebar? Just there is no foam on that section so not sure was it part of the bullhorn or not.

    I have attached a pic of the brake levers, do they need to be moved up or are they fine as is?

    Thanks




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,484 ✭✭✭at1withmyself


    You can move the brake levers and grips or leave them in current position.

    I'd prefer to move them out and utilize the full handlebars but perfectly acceptable as is too.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,482 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    one thing to bear in mind is that the handlebars may be wider than you would prefer - you've the option of cutting them if that's the case; try with the full width and the current width and see which you prefer.



  • Registered Users Posts: 108 ✭✭Inforapenny




    Thanks both ^^, I should probably cycle the bike first! Then see how it feels and make any changes for it to be more comfortable.

    If I find I only leave my hands on the foamy/grip part as is, I can look to maybe cut the edges of the handlebars? Otherwise, if I want to cycle with my hands wider then I should move the foamy/grip part out wider along with the brakes.

    Thank you



  • Registered Users Posts: 931 ✭✭✭nicksnikita




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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,216 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    I'm trying to fit a front mudguard but the fork mount seems too high on my bike to get as close as I would like to the tire. See photo below. SKS Bluemels 35mm on a Genesis Equilibrium Disc.

    Is there anything that I can do here or any other type of bridge I could get to mount to the fork?



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,216 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Now with photo




  • Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    If it was me, I would drill out the rivets holding the L bracket in place, then go to my local hardware and get a bracket with a longer leg, and rivet it in place.


    But that's just me



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,484 ✭✭✭at1withmyself


    I don't really use mudguards but am curious what benefits lowering it will do? Why not leave as is?



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,482 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    is there a 'standard' for whether the L bracket bolts on at the front of the crown, or behind it?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    I don't like the way these replies are going. We shouldn't be asking why, and we shouldn't be asking should you. Man wants to do a thing, the only response is "This is how..."😂😂😂



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,097 ✭✭✭Mundo7976


    Try bringing the bracket to the front instead



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,497 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle




  • Registered Users Posts: 890 ✭✭✭Statler


    Having trouble fitting a Shimano crankset, the little plastic tab (circled in green in the photo below) on the non drive side just will not close for me, I have the crank on and the pinch bolts tightened, but the tab is sticking up, if that makes sense... It's a bb386 bottom bracket, so it's got one of those wavy spacer rings, I've tried it on the drive and non drove side but no matter what I can't close the plastic tab. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!




  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,497 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Loosen the pinch bolts and then tighten your plastic bolt, the pinch bolts hold it and you have to use it first to hold the cranks in the right place, the pinch bolts will make it impossible to tighten.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    whats best way to set tubeless? I got a puncture and had to fit a tube. One tyre side is still pretty snug but side we removed to fit a tube is not setting as in even holding air..trying using footpump


    Is a compressor only option ??



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    Compressor is what I use. Other option is a floor pump with a reservoir on it.

    If you're stuck, and near South Kildare, pm me



  • Registered Users Posts: 890 ✭✭✭Statler


    Problem is I can't seem to tighten/close the plastic tab at all.... Just to confirm it's not the round tension loading plastic bolt, it's the small little plastic hinged tab that closes down when installing the crank...



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,497 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Sorry, that wasn't clear. Take it off, make sure all is clean, push down on the tab when you have it on and it should be fine. This said, if the tension bolt is tightened, and the pitch bolts are done, then that plastic clip means nothing.



  • Registered Users Posts: 890 ✭✭✭Statler


    Thanks, will try that... I did kind of figure that a piece of plastic isn't going to keep the crank on, the pinch bolts are tightened to torque and all seems ok so if all else fails I'll just ride it and forget it.



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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,497 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    It does an OK job of keeping it on when placing it. There is a slight concern that if its not clipping down that the crank isn't on right but it has happened to me in the past, think it was slightly bent and never had any issues



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,908 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    This is by some distance the easiest game for City that I've seen them play in the league for ages. Even fulham who got humoed 5-1 actually put on a better show.


    And that's no surprise. We made sheffield united, wolves, brentford and a few others seem like they were brilliant teams



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas




  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,908 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    I had 2 threads open it seems



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,981 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    So after a pinch flat in this weekends CX race I am thinking about swapping over to a pair of tubeless Griffos. My rims are TLR, I purchased second hand and they have a red BBB rimtape glued on but no model number only BBB/ RIMTAPE HP | High Pressure Rim Tape 25mm printed on it the whole way around. Does anyone know if this will be suitable for tubeless setup?

    I have tubeless valves already from a set of rims I binned recently so was going to reuse them and I have sealalnt, so just putting together an order for parts. Thanks

    EDIT: Pretty sure this is the tape https://bbbcycling.com/uk_en/bti-95-rimtape?color_combo=143739#more-information

    Post edited by 68 lost souls on


  • Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭Bluejohn1


    Looking to change up my 11 speed 105 nuroad race a little without spending a bomb. Am I correct that this is all I need if I wanted to get some extra gearing without doing the crank and front derailleur also.

    Dunno why it mentions 1x for the rear derailleur in the description.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,216 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    In theory that is only for a 1x system, the range is limited and on paper it won't work with a 2x. As always with Shimano, many people seem to have made it work though.

    It is the 810 rear derailleur that you need for a 2x but with a maximum of 34 or 36 largest cog at the rear.

    What are you trying to achieve and what is the current 105 set up? Smaller front chain rings could also be an option



  • Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭Bluejohn1


    Dad bod after 2 kids. Saw that lakelander event and would like to use it as motivation for training 😅. Probably want more gearing than my current 34-50 11-34. It's redo the groupset or get a new bike.

    If I went new crankset (30-46) then it would just be that, front derailleur yeah? Could probably keep my chain and 11-34 cassette.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,216 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    You could get a GRX 600 46-30 crankset and a new GRX front derailleur for less than you would be spending on the rear derailleur and cassette.

    Some people have made the 105 front derailleur work with the GRX crankset but I was never happy when I had it (chain lines are different) so I would go with the derailleur too.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 228 ✭✭vintcerf


    don't know where to post this but I ride tpu tubes (aliexpress) and have done so with no issues for about 9 months now. long story short - co2 cracks the plastic valve so if you're on tpus you might want to carry a pump. luckily I had a second extra tube and was only 400m from a bike shop.

    I rode all summer in some remote places solely relying on co2 😬

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