More likely to be the cable outer if the OP didn't change it when he did the cable, chain, cassette and jockey wheels on the rear derailleur
Missed that in his post.
I'll have a look. Thanks.
Wondering if I can tweak this rather than take to the shop, knocking sound coming from the crank area, only when I pedal. Had a long ride yesterday with much elevation, really grinding the granny gear on the climbs, last flat 20k back to base I noticed this noise.
Put it up on the stand and turned the pedals, it seems like the pedal arm "jumps" a little bit, or falls forward (not sure how to describe) on each revolution, as the pedal arm gets to horizontal. There is no play in the crank arms themselves, I push them inwards and outwards and seems solid enough.
The groupset is shimano tiagra 4700
I'm at thus all day. The whole thing will go over the hedge shortly.
I think there might be an issue with the internal cable liners as, when the cable clamp is loose the derailleur moves fully across each side, limit screws okay.
When cable attached and indexed, it's shifting down the cassette that is causing issues. By hand, pulling the cable, I can't feel any resistance to speak of. Tye only part of the system that's not replaced at this point are the liners.
When you say the liners, are you talking about the outers? As in, the black sheathing that the steel cable goes into? I'd definitely be replacing them, per @nilhg
If you take the chain off the chainring, does the crankset spin smoothly?
Did you replace the complete cable or just the inner cable wire?
Yes it does. Also, just noticed the chain jumps upwards a bit in sync with the knocking sound. New chain needed? 4000km on this one.
do you have a chain wear tool?
how many miles on the chainrings?
I'm afraid I don't. Same 4000km on the chainrings.
All derailleurs seem to be shifting fine.
Probably a worn chain - a chain wear tool will easily tell you e.g....
Whereabouts in the country are you as someone here with one might be near you?
I'm not far from a Halfords I'll pick up one of those. I've done the non-tool methods of checking it, nothing too obvious yet, so we'll see. Thanks all.
I replaced the outers completely from thd shifter to thd downtime and from the chainsaw to the derailleur, the rest runs internally through a plastic sheath/liner down under the bottom bracket.
Can you take a video as it is hard to picture what you mean.
https://streamable.com/fv58tz
See how chains jumps upwards with the noise
Can you post a pic of the chainring? I can't see how the teeth would be worn after 4k but it might explain it.
Derailleur hanger is the next thing I'd check, so
Chainring is well worn, you can see it at the end of the video.
Just degreased it all and you're right. Good Lord 🙈 How tf did I manage that after just 4k?
Hows my rear sprocket looking?
Rear actually looks fine.
yeah, compare that to the squared off teeth on a new chainring; i think it'd just be best to replace chain, cassette and chainrings. if you're near decathlon, they also sell chain wear checkers - i do like them, they've 'if it fails on this side, replace the chain' and on the other side 'if it fails on this side, replace both chain and cassette'
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/shimano-tiagra-4700-chainring/137973654/p
Checked, looks perfect.
I've looked ai it again discovered that when the front derailleur is disconnected the shifting is fine I think that the cables must have crossed internally or something that the fd cable was impinging on the rd cable. Its shifting fine now.
ThThanks for all the advice. The whole lot nearly went over the hedge here yesterday!
After washing the bike recently, I try to keep on top of it at least once a week as I commute and do a weekend spin - I noticed that the disc had some oil/grease or where contaminated in some way. I rode the bike and its stopping completely fine and no squeaks. Do I need to worry about cleaning them and the pads? I've found it to be abit of a nightmare in the past and generally when I try and do something with the bike I leave it worse than when I start :(
if it ain't broke…
though the real test will be in the wet. might be worth testing that before you need it.
loose rivnut in a carbon fork - i guess epoxy is an obvious solution, but are there any products out there which are easy to inject into a very small area? or is it back to superglue again?
Would you chance doing a replacement? The process itself isn't that hard, but I'm not sure where you'd get the chemicals the guy uses here.
Identical puncture problem:
Hi there, hoping I can get some info/advice.
I was out for a cycle a few weeks ago, and at some point, I head the soft sound of two things rubbing together with each rotation of the wheel. I looked down to see that the tyre had bulged and the tube was visible. It popped almost at the same moment. When I looked at the tyre later, it had frayed and worn at a certain point. Ok, I thought, it's an old tyre, so I got a new one and a new tube and put them both on. I did a 30km cycle a few days later without any problems.
Fast forward to a couple of days ago, and I had my first chance since then to get on the bike, and I did a 30km cycle without any issues.
Then today, I was 50km into a cycle when I suddenly heard the pop, and when I examined it, the basically brand new tyre had frayed (at has the appearance of fraying) in a very similar way to the old one - I cannot tell if it was the same position on the wheel or not. This time I didn't hear any rubbing sound, just the pop.
Based on that info, is there anything that sticks out as a likely reason for this? I'm wary of buying a new tyre until I have some idea of what the problem is, as I don't want it to happen again.
Just from rubbing my finger along the inside of the wheel rim where the tyre frayed, I cannot notice anything that's any more rough than anywhere else.
it only frayed at one particular point?
In the case of both old and new tyre, just at one point. The damage itself is very similar on both tyres.
