One of my bikes is a 12 speed and the chain seems to need replacing much quicker than on my 10/11 speeds. Is this normal?
I have to change it at around 3,500kms whereas it's around 5,000kms on the other bikes. Is it because the components are 'thinner'?
Thanks.
cheers - i'll have a fiddle around and see what i can do; as mentioned, the gap is too small to efficiently get epoxy in, but i have a couple of different tubes of CA glue of varying thicknesses so may need to experiment.
one issue would be there's probably crud in there which would impede a good bond from forming, but again, difficult to wash out.
You could try putting some two part epoxy between the lip of the rivnut, and the body of the fork, and then try tightening down the rivnut a little with a rivnut gun (if you have access to one)
A squeeze or two might be enough to make it seat while the epoxy sets.
I have a rivnut gun, but I don't think I'm very close to you, from memory. Feel free to pm if you want a loan of it, regardless.
ooh, not sure i like the idea of getting a drill near the fork! could be very difficult to get a replacement fork; it's a disc brake bike, but with traditional QR skewers, which is not standard at all anymore AFAIK.
the rivnut in question is one about halfway up the fork, one of the points for fastening the mudguard to. so doesn't carry a whole lot of weight.
A Shimano hub makes it easier as it has a little plastic plug (see picture below) that you attach to the end of the light wiring and slide it in. The only awkward thing will be running it through the fork but that's not tremendously difficult. If you are going to buy dynamo lights, buy decent ones, so they will have a shaped beam pattern and be pretty efficient. If money is no object, there are really good examples of the various beam patterns here but notice how on the good ones that the light doesn't go above the height of where the light is mounted: https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/headlights.php My favourite is the edelux II
Your dynamo hub should already have this for connecting the light:
Pull it apart, insert the wires where the wires from your current lights wires were, reassemble (push together) and push in to the dynamo.
Has anyone here changed a dynamo light on a bike? I bought a riverside touring from decathlon. Unfortunately it came with a 30 lux front light which I guess is okay to be seen with. However, I found that in order to be able to see ahead. Clearly, I have to point the light fully horizon rather than angled down the ground and I'm worried about dazzling oncoming drivers and pedestrians.
The bike uses a Shimano front dynamo hub and the cable is rooted from where the light sits on the front rack down through one of the front forks from the looks of it. I presumably it's fairly plug and play at the most complicated bit might be having to trim down the cable if it's too long.
The rim could be dipping slightly. at least imperceptibly while riding.
Check the inside of the rim, maybe? Just in case there's damage which causes a bulge just at the damage?
That actually makes a lot of sense as I changed the rim brakepads on that wheel not so long ago, and the new brakepads were bigger.
When I set them, I avoided any overshoot, but with my weight on the bike, I can see things happening as you describe.
Not sure why would affect just one spot though, but maybe all it takes is one strong application of the brake to set things in motion.
Had this on rim brake wheel, braking surface worn and brakpads were overshooting rim and cutting into wall of tyre, had to bin the wheelset as back wheel was only marginally behind front wheel wear wise. Lost a tyre with life in it and a spanking new GP5000.
Old tyre below. Might not be visible with older tyre, but the thin metal strips are exposed, as they are in the new tyre.
Disc or rim brake? I it's rim braked it's possible the pads are contacting the tyre when you brake, maybe only in one spot if there is an issue with the rim. That would be the first thing to check I think
Photos?
In the case of both old and new tyre, just at one point. The damage itself is very similar on both tyres.
it only frayed at one particular point?
Identical puncture problem:
Hi there, hoping I can get some info/advice.
I was out for a cycle a few weeks ago, and at some point, I head the soft sound of two things rubbing together with each rotation of the wheel. I looked down to see that the tyre had bulged and the tube was visible. It popped almost at the same moment. When I looked at the tyre later, it had frayed and worn at a certain point. Ok, I thought, it's an old tyre, so I got a new one and a new tube and put them both on. I did a 30km cycle a few days later without any problems.
Fast forward to a couple of days ago, and I had my first chance since then to get on the bike, and I did a 30km cycle without any issues.
Then today, I was 50km into a cycle when I suddenly heard the pop, and when I examined it, the basically brand new tyre had frayed (at has the appearance of fraying) in a very similar way to the old one - I cannot tell if it was the same position on the wheel or not. This time I didn't hear any rubbing sound, just the pop.
Based on that info, is there anything that sticks out as a likely reason for this? I'm wary of buying a new tyre until I have some idea of what the problem is, as I don't want it to happen again.
Just from rubbing my finger along the inside of the wheel rim where the tyre frayed, I cannot notice anything that's any more rough than anywhere else.
Would you chance doing a replacement? The process itself isn't that hard, but I'm not sure where you'd get the chemicals the guy uses here.
loose rivnut in a carbon fork - i guess epoxy is an obvious solution, but are there any products out there which are easy to inject into a very small area? or is it back to superglue again?
if it ain't broke…
though the real test will be in the wet. might be worth testing that before you need it.
After washing the bike recently, I try to keep on top of it at least once a week as I commute and do a weekend spin - I noticed that the disc had some oil/grease or where contaminated in some way. I rode the bike and its stopping completely fine and no squeaks. Do I need to worry about cleaning them and the pads? I've found it to be abit of a nightmare in the past and generally when I try and do something with the bike I leave it worse than when I start :(
Checked, looks perfect.
I've looked ai it again discovered that when the front derailleur is disconnected the shifting is fine I think that the cables must have crossed internally or something that the fd cable was impinging on the rd cable. Its shifting fine now.
ThThanks for all the advice. The whole lot nearly went over the hedge here yesterday!
yeah, compare that to the squared off teeth on a new chainring; i think it'd just be best to replace chain, cassette and chainrings. if you're near decathlon, they also sell chain wear checkers - i do like them, they've 'if it fails on this side, replace the chain' and on the other side 'if it fails on this side, replace both chain and cassette'
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/shimano-tiagra-4700-chainring/137973654/p
Rear actually looks fine.
Just degreased it all and you're right. Good Lord 🙈 How tf did I manage that after just 4k?
Hows my rear sprocket looking?
Chainring is well worn, you can see it at the end of the video.
Derailleur hanger is the next thing I'd check, so
Can you post a pic of the chainring? I can't see how the teeth would be worn after 4k but it might explain it.
https://streamable.com/fv58tz
See how chains jumps upwards with the noise
Can you take a video as it is hard to picture what you mean.
I replaced the outers completely from thd shifter to thd downtime and from the chainsaw to the derailleur, the rest runs internally through a plastic sheath/liner down under the bottom bracket.
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