Hyundai Ioniq 28kWh

this.lad

KaiserSochez wrote: »

Hi folks, looking a dipping the toe into EV ownership and considering the Ionic for this. Given that it’s been out a few years now I’m wondering from long term owners are you still relatively happy with your buying decision....do you still own your cars? Have you upgraded to anything else or plan too based on range, battery, price etc?

I have two of them. Great cars, both 28.

All charging at home except very occasional need for a top up if I'm a long way away.

I always tell people that electric won't suit everyone, look at your commute etc. you don't want to set yourself up for hardship.

fricatus

KaiserSochez wrote: »

Hi folks, looking a dipping the toe into EV ownership and considering the Ionic for this. Given that it’s been out a few years now I’m wondering from long term owners are you still relatively happy with your buying decision....do you still own your cars? Have you upgraded to anything else or plan too based on range, battery, price etc?

Disclaimer first: if you have largely predictable daily mileage that’s well within the range of the car and somewhere to charge it every day, be that work or a driveway at home, then electric is the way to go. If you regularly need to drive from Dublin to Cork and back again at 10 minutes’ notice and without stopping (loads of people in the comments section of EV-related YouTube videos seem to need to), then electric is not for you.

With that out of the way, I would highly recommend the Ioniq. I’ve had mine (the 28, “classic”) for two years now and I find it hard to find fault with it. If you pushed me for the negatives, I could only come up with stuff I miss from my Honda Accord, like leather seats (available on the newer model, but not on the older one if originally bought in Ireland) a sunroof (likewise maybe?) and a little storage area for coins below the steering wheel (the Ioniq has fuses!)

I commute in it and I’ve taken it on holidays up to NI and Donegal, as well as over to London, and it has performed just fine. Like a lot of people, I want a Tesla next, but if we go down that route, I’ll try to persuade my wife to get it and hold on to the Ioniq.

KaiserSochez

fricatus wrote: »

Disclaimer first: if you have largely predictable daily mileage that’s well within the range of the car and somewhere to charge it every day, be that work or a driveway at home, then electric is the way to go. If you regularly need to drive from Dublin to Cork and back again at 10 minutes’ notice and without stopping (loads of people in the comments section of EV-related YouTube videos seem to need to), then electric is not for you.

With that out of the way, I would highly recommend the Ioniq. I’ve had mine (the 28, “classic”) for two years now and I find it hard to find fault with it. If you pushed me for the negatives, I could only come up with stuff I miss from my Honda Accord, like leather seats (available on the newer model, but not on the older one if originally bought in Ireland) a sunroof (likewise maybe?) and a little storage area for coins below the steering wheel (the Ioniq has fuses!)

I commute in it and I’ve taken it on holidays up to NI and Donegal, as well as over to London, and it has performed just fine. Like a lot of people, I want a Tesla next, but if we go down that route, I’ll try to persuade my wife to get it and hold on to the Ioniq.

Great feedback. Cheers!

unkel

Bought a brand new Ioniq in 2017 and had it for 3 years until I bought my Tesla Model S

Ioniq is an excellent all round EV and great value for money. We're a family of 5 with a dog and there's enough space for all of us in the car. The hatchback makes it very practical too, I carried 9 full size solar panels in it last year, with the boot closed. Could also carry a big size fat bike in the boot, without having to take anything off, also with the boot closed

To get an EV better than the Ioniq, you will need to spend Tesla money. There really is nothing like the Ioniq in its price class

At some point there were over 50 Ioniq EV owners in this thread. And I've never heard anyone of them being unhappy about the car, except that some doing huge mileage will get frustrated if you have to drive beyond the range of the car regularly (commuting), but that's more the fault of the poor charging network in Ireland rather than the car.

prettyboy81

Kramer wrote: »

A thousand more would get you a 2019 with far less mileage, 2 years extra warranty, privacy glass all around, a heated steering wheel etc. :eek:.

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=113230643&postcount=654

.

Great Advert for stunning Ioniq.

adunis

As stated above the best ev everything considered Barr a Tesla

fricatus

fricatus wrote: »

Lads, I've a really weird problem that only started in the past week: I always use the preconditioning (departure time) feature, but one day it barely melted the ice on the windscreen and didn't clear the side windows.

It had clearly run though, because the display on the Zappi charger showed Charge Complete 0.19 kw/h. This was strange because normally it uses between about 0.9 and 1.4 depending on how cold it is.

When I got in the car, it was showing a/c on auto with the temperature set to 15 degrees. I assumed that my wife had set it that low to cool down the car and forgotten to put it back up, so I turned it back up to 21.5 and I thought nothing further of it. Obviously with a lower temperature setting, it would use less power to get to that level.

The same thing happened yesterday and the a/c temperature when I got in the car was 15 degrees, so I figured some setting was wrong. However I had a good look in the menus and nothing looked amiss. I deleted all the charging settings and set them up again, hoping that would fix the problem, but this morning it was the same: windscreen not cleared, only a small amount of power used, and temperature back at 15 deg when I got in.

Anyone ever seen this? Any ideas?

KCross wrote: »

Or just stick it on a 12V charger for 48hrs and that will likely bring it back to decent health.

If your issue continues to happen I would then hazard a guess that its not the 12V at all. So, might be better to try that first before shelling out for a new 12V.

Back to this one lads... I got hold of a multimeter to check the voltage, and it was 12.14V or thereabouts. It jumped to almost 14V once I fired up the car, and then settled back at 12.12V once I turned it off again. What do you reckon?

ELM327

adunis wrote: »

As stated above the best ev everything considered Barr a Tesla

+1
Had an Ioniq and now a Tesla MS90D.
I still miss the Ioniq from time to time. When we go to a 2 EV household the second car will be a classic Ioniq28

unkel wrote: »

Bought a brand new Ioniq in 2017 and had it for 3 years until I bought my Tesla Model S

Ioniq is an excellent all round EV and great value for money. We're a family of 5 with a dog and there's enough space for all of us in the car. The hatchback makes it very practical too, I carried 9 full size solar panels in it last year, with the boot closed. Could also carry a big size fat bike in the boot, without having to take anything off, also with the boot closed

To get an EV better than the Ioniq, you will need to spend Tesla money. There really is nothing like the Ioniq in its price class

At some point there were over 50 Ioniq EV owners in this thread. And I've never heard anyone of them being unhappy about the car, except that some doing huge mileage will get frustrated if you have to drive beyond the range of the car regularly (commuting), but that's more the fault of the poor charging network in Ireland rather than the car.

I was one of those, and the only reason I was unhappy was the delta in winter range to summer range. It was claimed by some on here that you could get 200km range all year round, before I bought. And I bought on that basis.
And you can't, as I had to do the last 10-15km of a 175km trip on turtle mode and rolling. Never again.


But if you're not pushing the range (or there's better charging options now too - theres now an Ionity charger at gorey about 20km before I hit turtle!) it's a brilliant car and I highly recommend it.

adunis

Standard ioniq behaviour,12.2 v equals f@#ked in lead acid land ,but will keep an Ioniq alive "most" of the time,your choice is ...
A)buy a battery
B)Buy a cheapy eBay jumpstarter and leave it in the glovebox.
Higher capacity battery will provide a bigger safety buffer, unfortunately the cars 12v maintenance regime will stay the same......

unkel

adunis wrote: »

12.2 v equals f@#ked in lead acid land

Well said

The only thing that really solves this is a software update. So that the 12V is constantly checked and topped up where necessary. This does mean that the car has to always be "on", so you will get a phantom drain, losing you range unless you are plugged in

Funny thing is that's exactly how Teslas work. They knew this stuff 10 years ago. You can power your house from a Tesla through the 12V battery, with the car "switched off" and the 12V will never run empty

KCross

fricatus wrote: »

Back to this one lads... I got hold of a multimeter to check the voltage, and it was 12.14V or thereabouts. It jumped to almost 14V once I fired up the car, and then settled back at 12.12V once I turned it off again. What do you reckon?

The jump to 14V and back to 12.1V is normal behavior as your multimeter is just measuring what the 12V is being given when the car is turned on as opposed to what the battery charge actually is.

I'd still say you need to put the 12V on a 48hr charge cycle with a smart charger and then see what state it is in after that. Did you try that?

Buying a new 12V battery might last a bit longer but may not solve your issue. Your 12V might be fine once it is given a decent charge session from a smart charger.

unkel

If I still had the Ioniq and it was time for a new battery, I'd stick in a lithium iron phosphate battery. 4 cells 3.2V nominal, so a drop in replacement at 12.8V total, but the good thing is that it will still work fine at a bit over 10V, unlike a lead acid battery which is fukced if even getting close to the good side of 12V as adunis so elegantly described it

Silent Running

unkel wrote: »

If I still had the Ioniq and it was time for a new battery, I'd stick in a lithium iron phosphate battery. 4 cells 3.2V nominal, so a drop in replacement at 12.8V total, but the good thing is that it will still work fine at a bit over 10V, unlike a lead acid battery which is fukced if even getting close to the good side of 12V as adunis so elegantly described it

So, is there anything to stop you making up a battery with 18650 cells to make up the required voltage and capacity? Would it charge from the car's system in normal use?

unkel

Nothing stopping you. I make batteries from lithium ion 18650 cells all the time with my favourite Vruzend kits, no welding or soldering needed. Perfect for my eBikes, electric scooters, powering my shed, running all sorts of appliances, electric air pump, etc.

DO NOT STICK ANY OF THESE BATTERIES IN YOUR CAR THOUGH!!!

I keep mine in the shed, well away from the house. Only charge them unattended in the shed too.

That said, a drop in LiFePo4 12V battery replacement for your lead acid 12V in the car is very safe. And of course my Tesla has >8,000 18650 cells too, but they are very well managed and very safe. Not something that can be said with 100% confidence about any home made battery...

KCross

unkel wrote: »

If I still had the Ioniq and it was time for a new battery, I'd stick in a lithium iron phosphate battery. 4 cells 3.2V nominal, so a drop in replacement at 12.8V total...

The unknown is how it will react to be charged everyday like it was a lead acid. Maybe it will be fine, maybe it wont. I dont think I'd like to be the first to try it on my €30k car!

unkel

LiFePo4 are extremely safe, far safer than lead acid

It will be perfect for a car as it will never be fully charged and never be almost empty. Fully charged is 14.8V, no alternator in the world would go that high :-)

Fully discharged is under 10V. Very unlikely to happen either...

Keep it in the normal 12V lead acid car battery zone and it will last longer than the car. Provided of course there are no issues with a severe winter and a battery of -10C

ELM327

Yeah, I'd imagine it's simply cost as to why cars don't have them now tbh

unkel

Ioniq PHEV does have a lithium 12V battery, no lead acid :cool:

Cost would add a few hundred to the price of a car. Not great for a budget car when weight doesn't matter much. But most performance motor bikes I believe have ltihium batteries these days...

KCross

unkel wrote: »

LiFePo4 are extremely safe, far safer than lead acid

It will be perfect for a car as it will never be fully charged and never be almost empty. Fully charged is 14.8V, no alternator in the world would go that high :-)

Fully discharged is under 10V. Very unlikely to happen either...

Keep it in the normal 12V lead acid car battery zone and it will last longer than the car. Provided of course there are no issues with a severe winter and a battery of -10C

What will you gain though? The problem isnt the tech (lead-acid vs li-ion)... its the lack of charging. The li-ion will also go below the threshold at which the cars actuators etc will work and you may not be any better off but you now have a more expensive li-ion battery that is being abused instead of a cheap lead-acid one.... basically, it doesnt really solve the problem and adds cost and unknowns.

KCross

These 12V issues are somewhat predictable in an EV...
- lots of short journeys
- start of cold weather
- car idle for extended periods

Just preemptively stick the 12V on a smart charger and problem "solved". Its not like its a daily occurrence.

unkel

Agreed the problem is with the software, not the hardware, I've said that all along. The only way to solve this is to have the car permanently "awake" and monitoring the 12V. Like Teslas do.

zg3409

adunis wrote: »

Higher capacity battery will provide a bigger safety buffer, unfortunately the cars 12v maintenance regime will stay the same......

Just beware the bracket holding the 12v only fits very small batteries. It locks on to the bottom of the battery so anything too big will not mount without making a bracket.

As others have said put your 12v on charge, or turn car on for 4+ hours and see what battery is like afterwards.

Due to lockdown I am leaving my 12v on a trickle charge. For peace of mind I would splash out on a new battery if you are getting issues.

fricatus

KCross wrote: »

I'd still say you need to put the 12V on a 48hr charge cycle with a smart charger and then see what state it is in after that. Did you try that?

KCross wrote: »

Just preemptively stick the 12V on a smart charger and problem "solved". Its not like its a daily occurrence.

I haven’t tried that yet but I do have access to a 4 amp smart charger and mains supply in the garage, plus I can drive the car half way in.

Dumb question: The charger instructions say to disconnect the battery to avoid alternator damage, but that would probably reset the various electronics, and an EV won’t have an alternator as such (presumably some DC converter or something), so what’s the best thing to do? Leave the battery connected and car powered off? Or something else? Sorry, I’m a bit clueless... or worse, I have a little dangerous knowledge!

KCross

fricatus wrote: »

I haven’t tried that yet but I do have access to a 4 amp smart charger and mains supply in the garage, plus I can drive the car half way in.

Dumb question: The charger instructions say to disconnect the battery to avoid alternator damage, but that would probably reset the various electronics, and an EV won’t have an alternator as such (presumably some DC converter or something), so what’s the best thing to do? Leave the battery connected and car powered off? Or something else? Sorry, I’m a bit clueless... or worse, I have a little dangerous knowledge!

Ideally disconnect the battery and then stick it on the charger.

It will likely result in you losing some of your charge settings etc in the infotainment system but you are already resetting some of those anyway with the issues you are having so that shouldnt be a big deal to reconfigure as a once off.

unkel

If the car is 2-3 years old, I wouldn't be pussyfooting around with any trickle chargers. Just replace the battery and be done with it. The software will have caused premature death of the battery, going anywhere even close to 12V regularly just kills lead acid. Just replace it.

KCross

unkel wrote: »

The software will have caused premature death of the battery, going anywhere even close to 12V regularly just kills lead acid. Just replace it.

That very much depends on what the software is doing. It’s not happening all the time so I wouldn’t agree that you replace it at the first sign of a problem.

It’s at least worth one trickle charge and take it from there. If you go replacing it at every sign of a problem you could be replacing it every year.

My own is still on its original battery and it’s 5yrs old!

unkel

The battery in your Leaf is unlikely to have seen the wrong side of 12V more than once or twice, if ever. A battery in an Ioniq, with this only known fault really, that has likely been far too low a few times (particularly if you have seen voltages like that, like I believe fricatus has? I have on mine) after 2 or 3 years - the first sign of any electrical issues, just replace it. It's 60 quid for feck sake, not 600 quid you are going to curse yourself if you have not done it, next time it will seriously inconvenience you or your other half and the car won't start and you're away from home. Believe me, I have been that soldier. Just take my advice and replace it.

If you really don't like bringing the old battery to the recycling centre, buy a cheap solar panel, charge controller and a movement or dawn / dusk sensor and use it in your shed. It will probably be ok for that for the next 10 years

KCross

unkel wrote: »

The battery in your Leaf is unlikely to have seen the wrong side of 12V more than once or twice, if ever.

The Leaf has the exact same design fault as the Ioniq so I don’t know why you think that.

My own went low a couple of weeks into this covid crisis and I stuck it on the charger. It was doing nothing else. Why would I go to the bother of buying a new battery!?

For a guy who doesn’t like wasting money your eager to waste fricatus’s!

unkel

60 to replace a 3 year old battery that is on its last legs is the least wasteful 60 he ever spent. Up to fricatus how he spends his money, but if he is smart, he won't be taking your advice

Old Jim

Have a question on the re-sale value of the Ioniq.
The last 3 cars I’ve bought have been 3yr olds and cost between 8 - 9.5K and two of those were from a garage.
Average asking price of a 2017 Ioniq seems to be around 20K private.
Is it simply the economics of supply and demand or have cars gotten a lot more expensive in recent years?
Looking back over this thread, the 2017 Ioniq could be bought from 26K (with scrappage) to 28k new. Seems extraordinary low depreciation on a new car.
I would be worried that the brunt of the depreciation will be felt by the 2nd owner as opposed to the 1st. How much will a 7 yr old Ioniq be worth, I wonder?
What do people think?