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Chain Saw Chat

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  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    A rock, a hole and a hard place I reckon. Don't like any of those options really. Take no offence but I'll say what I'm thinking.

    If you're cutting old decking and floorboards, I wouldn't be using a chainsaw at all if there's a chance you're going to be running into nails or broken off screw heads, old electrical clips and whatnot. And there is, absolutely, more a likelihood in fact.

    If you're planning on using old deck boards for floorboards for firewood, that's not a great idea either depending on what soft of fireplace/stove and what they were treated with. Some right nasty stuff gone into those sorts of boards over the years. But you'll know yourself if that's a risk or not I suppose.

    I think I'd get rid of the boards and go buy some firewood ready to split and stack with the money instead, if that's what you need. Better way to spend time and money IMHO. And if you're asking about those saws, and forgive me if I'm wrong, I'd guess you don't have the fairly sensible safety gear to go with a chainsaw. If so then it's all a bit of a bad idea. You'll end up with a pain in the arse with all of it, a saw you won't get a lot for if you decide you've had enough, a few wasted days and wrecked chains or worst case an injury. All for a bit of ****e firewood.

    Live up to your name and don't be at it. There's better ways to get rid of some old boards and to get a bit of firewood going.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,246 ✭✭✭GY A1


    A chop saw be safer for that sort stuff
    Hi all, following on from previous discussion on a saw for ~€250. Have a shed full of old floorboards and decking etc for cutting up.
    On the Stihl/Husqvarna front there seems to be 3 options at that price level.
    Stihl MS 170 - €230
    Stihl MS 180 - €250
    Husqvarna 135 - €250.

    The 2 x Stihls have a chain gauge of 0.043", which I've read (on this forum and elsewhere) can be a little on the light side.
    The Husqvarna is 0.050", which is obviously better but still not the 0.063" you get on bigger saws. Also the Husqvarna has a bit more power in it.
    What are folks opinions on the above options?
    Cheers,


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,937 ✭✭✭SmartinMartin


    I use a chop saw for boards and stuff, mounted on a stack of pallets. Far safer hitting a nail with a clamped in blade than with a chain saw.


  • Registered Users Posts: 364 ✭✭Dont Be at It


    Thanks for the feedback, guys.
    The issue with the nails had crossed my mind alright. Plan was to mark the timber before cutting it (tedious, I know).
    Fair point re getting rid of it and buying firewood with the chainsaw money, but there's probably 2 skip's worth which would cost 5 or 6 hundred.
    Chop saw could be the way to go so..thought it'd be too much for one... Also, liked the idea of having a saw around the place for odd jobs, etc but maybe that's fanciful thinking.


  • Registered Users Posts: 446 ✭✭SCOL


    Chain saw is probably the quickest option, I cut up pallets for my stove with the Sthil 250 handy and light, I hit an odd nail with
    off cut but I can sharpen the blade.

    Cheap handy and quick.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 755 ✭✭✭stock>


    SCOL wrote: »
    Chain saw is probably the quickest option, I cut up pallets for my stove with the Sthil 250 handy and light, I hit an odd nail with
    off cut but I can sharpen the blade.

    Cheap handy and quick.


    If it has a blade it not a chainsaw................................chainsaws use a chain to cut that runs on a guide bar..................................................................


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,937 ✭✭✭SmartinMartin


    I beg to differ. The chain contains loads of little blades which can certainly be sharpened.


  • Registered Users Posts: 755 ✭✭✭stock>


    I beg to differ. The chain contains loads of little blades which can certainly be sharpened.


    referred to as cutters not blades.....................................


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,937 ✭✭✭SmartinMartin


    They're referred to as teeth. They are indeed blades.


  • Registered Users Posts: 446 ✭✭SCOL


    SCOL wrote: »
    Chain saw is probably the quickest option, I cut up pallets for my stove with the Sthil 250 handy and light, I hit an odd nail with
    off cut but I can sharpen the blade.

    Cheap handy and quick.

    Sorry lads, I should have said "sharpen my chain" you probably need to replace
    the blade on the saw.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 21 Beaubeau


    Hi

    Looking at a used stihl ms 341 are they any good
    Just gonna be used for firewood


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,542 ✭✭✭bassy


    hi all just bought a wee little stihl 181 chainsaw,anyone on here have one and so what do you think of it?.


  • Registered Users Posts: 243 ✭✭Thepillowman


    Beaubeau wrote: »
    Hi

    Looking at a used stihl ms 341 are they any good
    Just gonna be used for firewood

    Should be fine have used a ms361 a few times great saw think they are much the same.


  • Registered Users Posts: 243 ✭✭Thepillowman


    bassy wrote: »
    hi all just bought a wee little stihl 181 chainsaw,anyone on here have one and so what do you think of it?.

    Should be ok for small jobs have a 180 that I got for free very handy for fencing.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,542 ✭✭✭bassy


    wheres the best place for value to buy chain oil ?.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,191 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    bassy wrote: »
    wheres the best place for value to buy chain oil ?.

    Local place, Clarkes of Cavan, have it for sale at €15 a gallon, or two for €20.
    Probably not get it much cheaper than that?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,542 ✭✭✭bassy


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    Local place, Clarkes of Cavan, have it for sale at €15 a gallon, or two for €20.
    Probably not get it much cheaper than that?

    I live in kilkenny,so cavan no good to me lol


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,176 ✭✭✭Sami23


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    Local place, Clarkes of Cavan, have it for sale at €15 a gallon, or two for €20.
    Probably not get it much cheaper than that?

    Any good value website it could be got at that price I wonder ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,542 ✭✭✭bassy


    Glanbia Co op 5 litres oil for €16.95


  • Registered Users Posts: 243 ✭✭Thepillowman


    Any good motor factors should have it, last time I bought it think it was around 49 euros for 20 litres.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,542 ✭✭✭bassy


    guys is 100ml 2 stroke enough for 5 litres petrol.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,268 ✭✭✭Melodeon


    bassy wrote: »
    guys is 100ml 2 stroke enough for 5 litres petrol.

    That's 50:1, which is the standard mix for pretty much everything these days.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,109 ✭✭✭blackbox


    Melodeon wrote: »
    That's 50:1, which is the standard mix for pretty much everything these days.

    Older machines commonly require 25:1. i.e. 100ml in 2.5 litres. It's usually embossed on the filler cap.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,542 ✭✭✭bassy


    ive just bought a stihl 181 so I think the 50:1 ratio is ok with the 181?.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 4,980 Mod ✭✭✭✭Genghis Cant


    Sami23 wrote: »
    Any good value website it could be got at that price I wonder ?

    I got bar oil from Donegans in Bailebourogh in Cavan.
    http://www.donegan.ie/product_info.php?cPath=64_311&products_id=2223

    5l for €12. I've got it online off them , excellent service, and I've also collected it off them when passing, if I'm up that country.


  • Registered Users Posts: 23 hempel


    Any1 have a battery dewalt chainsaw thinking of buying 1 as spare saw have dewalt tools so can swap the batteries.


  • Registered Users Posts: 699 ✭✭✭niallam


    hempel wrote: »
    Any1 have a battery dewalt chainsaw thinking of buying 1 as spare saw have dewalt tools so can swap the batteries.


    Plenty of YouTube reviews.
    A few great reviews on the Husky battery saws by some climbers I have followed for years on IG


  • Registered Users Posts: 28 243bigbang


    Hi all. I bought a husqvarna 254xp with intention of fixing it if needed. I'm new enough to fixing saws so I brought it to a shop to find out what was wrong as I tried getting it going and failed. Was told the bottom end needs attention and the piston is slightly worn aswell. My question is does the crankshaft need replacing aswell as the bearings? If the crankshaft needs replacing where would you get one. Couldnt find one anywhere online. If you grab the clutch and wiggle it slightly you can see piston moving up and down which I was told shouldn't happen.? Does this mean crank is gone or would all the bearings need replacing.


  • Registered Users Posts: 243 ✭✭Thepillowman


    243bigbang wrote: »
    Hi all. I bought a husqvarna 254xp with intention of fixing it if needed. I'm new enough to fixing saws so I brought it to a shop to find out what was wrong as I tried getting it going and failed. Was told the bottom end needs attention and the piston is slightly worn aswell. My question is does the crankshaft need replacing aswell as the bearings? If the crankshaft needs replacing where would you get one. Couldnt find one anywhere online. If you grab the clutch and wiggle it slightly you can see piston moving up and down which I was told shouldn't happen.? Does this mean crank is gone or would all the bearings need replacing.

    Hard to answer that without going in deeper if bearings haven't spun on crankshaft it should be ok. Also outer race might be loose in the crankcase or might just be play in the bearings. If you move clutch sideways from front to back of saw is there much movement.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 28 243bigbang


    Hard to answer that without going in deeper if bearings haven't spun on crankshaft it should be ok. Also outer race might be loose in the crankcase or might just be play in the bearings. If you move clutch sideways from front to back of saw is there much movement.

    Yes if you move the clutch forward to backwards there is play. That's what the shop told me was the problem. They said there shouldn't be.


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