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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,602 ✭✭✭Newtown90


    I have some Autoglym glass polish so I might put that on with the DA before hand so!

    Only 2 small bottles so lets hope I dont spill any :eek:


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,075 ✭✭✭markc1184


    I've somehow managed to get a crack in the bottom of the bottle off my snow foam lance. If someone could point me in the direction of were I might be able to pick up a replacement I'd appreciate it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    markc1184 wrote: »
    I've somehow managed to get a crack in the bottom of the bottle off my snow foam lance. If someone could point me in the direction of were I might be able to pick up a replacement I'd appreciate it.

    A 500ml fizzy drinks bottle should fit...get ye out of a hole!


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    Bottle of tk be grand :p.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,205 ✭✭✭ratracer


    Lads,

    Will kids hand prints polish out of black paint easily enough?

    Cheers


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    The only guaranteed way is to machine polish them.
    Sometimes they can be removed by a hand polish, and sometimes it will appear as though the hand polish has done the job only to re-appear once the hand polish has washed out of the paintwork.


  • Registered Users Posts: 468 ✭✭Gordy6040


    Orchard Autocare Speed Seal

    Has anyone used this?
    I have a basket ready to go with some clay, an applicator pad and some CG Butter Wet Wax.

    Speed Seal caught my eye, the bit in the description about liking a clean car but being short on time is really selling it to me. What do you reckon the results would be like V the the CG wax?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,935 ✭✭✭randy hickey


    markc1184 wrote: »
    I've somehow managed to get a crack in the bottom of the bottle off my snow foam lance. If someone could point me in the direction of were I might be able to pick up a replacement I'd appreciate it.

    If you want a HDPE bottle that's almost identical to the one that comes with the PA lance, then for around €2 you can pick up one of these spray bottles from Musgraves;

    [IMG][/img]IMAG0101-2_zpsxelzmpsf.jpg

    I've one on my lance for a good while now and she's still going strong.
    For that price you can pick up a couple and keep them as spares.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,855 ✭✭✭nd


    Long but interesting video. Makes it look easy!



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    Randy, you are a great man for good finds and good bargains. Fair play.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,001 ✭✭✭LawlessBoy


    Didnt want to make a new thread for this, and I'll probably have some of you lads pulling your hair out reading this.

    What's the best cloth to rub a car down with after washing. The wash would just be a rinse,snowfoam,rinse as the car doesn't get to dirty. But did it like this yesterday and the new car is black when it dried there were water marks everywhere! You wouldn't even think I washed it.

    Anything easy enough that I can do to stop this?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,966 ✭✭✭Theboinkmaster


    LawlessBoy wrote: »
    Didnt want to make a new thread for this, and I'll probably have some of you lads pulling your hair out reading this.

    What's the best cloth to rub a car down with after washing. The wash would just be a rinse,snowfoam,rinse as the car doesn't get to dirty. But did it like this yesterday and the new car is black when it dried there were water marks everywhere! You wouldn't even think I washed it.

    Anything easy enough that I can do to stop this?

    Get this:

    http://www.detailingshed.com/drying-towels-microfibres/14-microfiber-madness-dry-me-crazy.html

    I have it and find it brilliant.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,855 ✭✭✭nd


    So the ripple effect here. Is that is what is called orangepeel? Or is it something else? And would any cut polish make any difference?

    3ulehoE.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,504 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    LawlessBoy wrote: »
    Didnt want to make a new thread for this, and I'll probably have some of you lads pulling your hair out reading this.

    What's the best cloth to rub a car down with after washing. The wash would just be a rinse,snowfoam,rinse as the car doesn't get to dirty. But did it like this yesterday and the new car is black when it dried there were water marks everywhere! You wouldn't even think I washed it.

    Anything easy enough that I can do to stop this?

    That towel is excellent.
    But I am afraid your wash routine will destroy a black car.
    You really do need to wash it properly.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,670 ✭✭✭quadrifoglio verde


    nd wrote: »
    So the ripple effect here. Is that is what is called orangepeel? Or is it something else? And would any cut polish make any difference?

    Yep that's orange peel but doesn't look too bad although its always difficult to photo. Ian in elite did a job on 166mans 166.
    It came out stunning, it had to be wet sanded out.
    Might be worth messaging 166man to see if you can see it, the photos don't do it justice.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    nd wrote: »
    So the ripple effect here. Is that is what is called orangepeel? Or is it something else? And would any cut polish make any difference?

    Yeah, that's orange peel.
    The problem is with polishing, unless its done right, wont have any major effect on it. If you use the traditional method of foam pads and cutting polish, they are spongy and flexible and will form to the surface, so essentially you are polishing the peaks and the hollows of the orange peel. Hence, wet sanding is usually the pro detailer way to approach it. This method, means that the peaks are leveled down to the depth of the hollows, and then the whole surface is polished to a mirror finish.

    There are ways to do it on a machine, but they can be risky. CarPro make pads that replicate 2000 and 3000 grit sandpaper; the Denim and Velvet pads. There is little or no flexibility / sponginess, and thus the peaks are more heavily worked than the hollows. It is advised that you use a paint depth gauge when using them. Though, being very careful it is possible to improve the finish greatly without one. If you check how much you've removed regularly, you can see how much you need to work the surface. A light pass will flatten the peaks slightly, and thus some of the paintwork will dull down, there will be spots that look like the paint finish prior to the first pass, these are the hollows...it will appear like the image below. Working slowly and inspecting regularly, eventually all the paint will appear dull; at this point the paintwork is flat, and orange peel has been removed. You'll need to cut and jewel the finish to its original (actually much better) shine.
    Again, if its being performed by someone impatient, it will result in disaster.

    0ffb.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,001 ✭✭✭LawlessBoy


    vectra wrote: »
    That towel is excellent.
    But I am afraid your wash routine will destroy a black car.
    You really do need to wash it properly.

    Is it going to be some crazy 4 hour wash job though:pac::D

    Its a 99 civic paint is actually in good condition on it. What would you recommend.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Two buckets, a good quality microfiber wash mitt, pH neutral shampoo, and that recommended drying towel....no more than an hour to do a good job, that includes taking out the gear and putting it away! ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    Being slowly reading up on all this detailing craic. Had some turtle wax stuff and micro fibres taking up some space in the shed so have started with them. Someone on a barstool said that turtle wax will fade the paint?? Any truth in that.

    I have only used the zip wax, the wash and wax in one. Comes out alright after a rub when it's dry. There is a bottle of high gloss there too. Would it be OK to put it on over the zip wax or would it be better to put it on a clean car? The high gloss bottle says on it to use it with high gloss shampoo.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    The Zip Wash and Wax wont fade the paint. Poor wash techniques will; sponges, not using 2 buckets, etc. Its not the best shampoo, but use the rest as it will do no harm.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 14,721 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    Curran, I was reading your post about wet sanding last night I get that it's a long, difficult process, is it something you think an armature could tackle?
    Panels on my Mazda are barely faded, they'll come up niice with a detail but fade within a week, oxidated I guess?
    Worth a shot?


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Compounding and wetsanding are essentially the same thing; wet sanding will just remove more, and quicker than compounding.

    So you are not benefiting anymore by wet sanding; you're jist removing more paintwork, leave less to shine it up regularly.

    What are you applying to the paintwork, post polishing, to help delay the onset of oxidation again?


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,721 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    Curran wrote: »
    Compounding and wetsanding are essentially the same thing; wet sanding will just remove more, and quicker than compounding.

    So you are not benefiting anymore by wet sanding; you're jist removing more paintwork, leave less to shine it up regularly.

    What are you applying to the paintwork, post polishing, to help delay the onset of oxidation again?

    Pete's 53, generally two coats of it.
    The car as a whole will look great for a month afterwards but the rear drives quarter goes dull and cloudy in about a week, if not less. It driver me mad!

    I do have thought about just wrapping it but I hate wraps... :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    Curran wrote: »
    The Zip Wash and Wax wont fade the paint. Poor wash techniques will; sponges, not using 2 buckets, etc. Its not the best shampoo, but use the rest as it will do no harm.


    Grand! Just looking to keep it somewhat protected for a while. Was afraid of it oxidising the paint or something! Have plans to touch up a few rust spots on the paint and then polish the clear coat. Will spend a few quid on better quality products then.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,075 ✭✭✭markc1184


    Does anyone know were I can pick up a gallon container of Chemical guys Speed Wipe? My last lot I got from Cleancar but that bottle is finished now.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,855 ✭✭✭nd


    these seem to have it but shipping is expensive

    http://www.chemicalguysuk.com/Speed_Wipe_Spray_Wax_p/vintspdwg.htm


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Im sure there'd be an Irish supplier who would get it in for you on their next order!


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,845 ✭✭✭Noccy_Mondy


    Curran wrote:
    Im sure there'd be an Irish supplier who would get it in for you on their next order!


    Ya, get onto halfords nd, they'd sort you out :pac: :P


  • Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    markc1184 wrote: »
    Does anyone know were I can pick up a gallon container of Chemical guys Speed Wipe? My last lot I got from Cleancar but that bottle is finished now.

    There is this company called detailingshed, they carry a bit of CG range, probably they will be able to source it for you in the large size..

    http://goo.gl/th2Gdz


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Ya, get onto halfords nd, they'd sort you out :pac: :P

    When did Halford's become Irish owned!! :P
    That's the one bbari; couldn't remember the name of it! ;)


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