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Cass wrote: »
Loving the bonnet struts. Cannot count the amount of times I've smacked my head of the bonnet because of how low it sits. May have to invest in a set.
BlakeS94 wrote: »
Cost €70 but well worth it. Only little issue is they tend to crush down on the weatherproof seal going across the firewall when the bonnet is closed
Top Dog wrote: »
€70?! :eek: I got the individual bits to do the same job on a Skoda off Amazon for less than €35 including shipping.
BlakeS94 wrote: »
Sure look, you pay for convenience, all in the one package, and in fairness, they gave me a bag of sweets aswell.
wandererz wrote: »
What in the world?
Weird oil drain valve?
colm_mcm wrote: »
but wanted the sensor display to not look too out of place on the dash
2 days ago i fixed
Passenger sun visor €20
Drivers electric window - free
Roof sunglasses holder pocket - free
And took off bonnet bra, tow hook, yellow fogs
Car - my daily driver avensis
Gave it a top up wash today, polished last week. Not sure if I prefer the dust that gets on your car from nice weather or the muck that gets on it from bad weather.
Put two new tyres on the back of the Lexus, it had Michelin cross-climate shite on it with one slow puncture so it was time I replaced them. 2 Hankooks for decent money, when I mentioned that one of the rears had a slow puncture the mechanic said that my gen Lexus wheels corrode terribly (evident from the flaking paint everywhere) and can leak air around the rim due to it. He did put some 'gunk' to better seal the tyre just in case that was the reason for my slow puncture before. So fingers crossed I don't have to go and source a new wheel. I could immediately feel the difference in the new rubber, less noise, better grip and generally better.
Swapped the Clutch , release bearing and flywheel on the V60 last week. Release bearing started making noise last month on any press of the clutch. Huge amount of effort to get in there so decided to swap out the whole hog whilst at it .
Fun job turned into a funner start as had to get off brake disk to drop the wishbone. Driver side disk absolutely welded to the bearing. Nothing for it but to cut if off with angle grinder.
So new disks and pads too.
Driving like new now , so happy with that.
Luk kit came in at 426 all in.
Pads and disks ordered seperate.
There was dedicated "what car related thing have you bought recently" thread, but since the downgrade I'm struggling to find it, so apologies.
Ms jou's ASX exhaust badly corroded, dealer wants an arm and a leg for replacement parts, second hand would more than likely be in similar condition to the current one.
Found a guy in Scotland making such things. Approx 450 notes incl. delivery to NI.
This one will definately not rust. ;-)
So I did replace my nuts, looks far better - can't seem to find a photo of them on the car
I also swapped the badge centre to a black one (forgot to take a before until I'd removed the old one but you get the idea)
Have to say I think it looks great - takes years off the car and it already looked pretty fresh.
I also did something about my faded r design badge which looked like the 'before' in this picture.
Its just sharpie & lacquer but looks fine from a distance.
I would like something proper along the same 'black edition' lines but any of the repros i can find are blue & grey.
Anyone know where I can get a single foil or gel sticker made up that won't cost the earth?
NCT failed me on rusty brake lines, which are far from rusty. What they missed is the rear chassis leg that looks less than fresh!
Cleaned the lines and gave them a coat of clear nail polish, let's see how we get on. I rarely replace anything when it's NCT time as I don't believe in waste.
I was failed on rusty brake lines too one time and all I did was wipe them down as they weren't even rusty just dirt on them and it passed.
Mine failed on a rusty rear subframe. A small hole developed on one side, about the size of the top of my pinky finger, but enough to fail. I was told a weld would pass, but if it starting to fail on one side then its safe to assume the subframe is beyond use, and so time to swap it out.
Got a great condition second hand frame (as the new ones are over €800) along with new Upper control arms, lower control arms, spring arms, ARBs, drop links, trailing arms, trailing arm bushes, spring arm bushes, and got to work.
First step was sandblasting, priming and painting the "new" subframe. I stripped it down and sent it off to get done. Once it was done I stripped started rebuilding the new frame with all the new parts. The only thing I reused from my own subframe were the hubs. Everything else is new.
Once done I set about removing my old one. Got it out without much grief and fitted the new one. Now I never took pictures of the new frame finished or mounted but all is nice nad shiny now. Good for another 17 years.
Old one out
New one before fitting all the parts but its nice and clean and well protected.
One tiny hole and it lead to four days of work. Good point was I managed to sort a handbrake issue that has been bothering me for 18 months as I had to remove the exhaust to fit the subframe so had easy access to the handbrake mechanism while it was off.
Good work. They are trickier than you think. Yes I know just a couple of bolts and nuts but they can still be tricky especially if you come across a stubborn rusted in bolt.
Every nut and bolt was original so I was sweating bricks. However I sprayed, literally, a can of easing/penetrating oil onto the bolts/nuts for three days about every 6 to 8 hours until I was ready to take it off. Even then there were a few squeaky bum moments but I gave a quarter turn with the elongated 1/2" pry bar, then back an 1/8, forward a half, back a quarter and once I was sure nothing was seized or going to ring I ran it out by hand.
Each bolt/nut was actuall in good nick so a thorough soaking to stop the rust, rust prevention, cleaning, painting and plenty of copper grease going back in and I got away lightly.
Everything on my subframe came off easly, having replaced the various rubbers and parts numerous times over the years, but the donor subframe (while in great condition) had seized bolts but as they were not needed I took of what would come off but anything that gave any grief was introduced to the mini angle grinder.
I nearly kicked myself when I got the report sheet fromt he NCT. Two months ago I considered doing this exact job as a mate had done his purely for preventative reasons. So I thought about doing mine but said I'd leave it till after the NCT.
In short don't tempt fate.
The last owner debadged it. I set that right yeterday.
I wasn't happy with the lacquer on my Prelude, it was very dull. So I did some horse trading with a friend of mine for some booth time.
I did all the stripping, scoching and covering. He took care of the gun work. It turned brilliant, well worth all the effort.
All put back together, for now.
Took the rocker cover off to try and manually adjust the tension on the timing belt.
It's a known issue with these engines and it's a devil to get right.
They whine like you wouldn't believe. It's mostly sorted and sounds a lot better now.
I found this guide online.
Gonna have to stop saying "I must check such and such" because everytime I do it seems to need replacing. First I said I'd "tidy up" the rear subframe then it failed on a hole the size of a ten pence piece so it had to be done. The timing belt and water pump has been on my mind for the last few months as its past due and with the number of threads about timing belts it was making me paranoid about changing it.
Out the other day and the coolant level light came on. Topped it up with about 200ml of water, but after a 25 minute drive it came on again. Opened the bonnet and heard water sizzling to the left side of the engine, half way down. Couldn't see the source and the only thing obscured is the water pump (it is behind the cam belt cover). It was last done at 109,000 and she is on 174,000.
So ordered new timing belt kit, aux/ belt, water pump kit which is due to arrive tomorrow so said I'd get a head start by doing all the stripping today. While I was at it I also ordered a new rocker cover gasket as there is slight weeping around the cover. The Z18xe has the aluminium head which i think is far better than the later vvti rocker cover which warp (some sort of plastic/polymer). So I stripped the rocker cover head bolts, and stripped all the auxillary stuff (air breather, coil pack, coolant pipe, sensors, etc), but DIDN'T remove the cover. Want to wait until I'm ready to do the actual gasket.
Everthing came apart easily as this is the third belt and pump service. Only problem, which I had last time, was the poxy torx head bolt off the timing belt tensioner. Its shallow and a T35 but soft metal which rounds if you look at it wrong. Wasn't in form for messing around with it and it already slipped/rounded partially so out came the mini grinder and ground off the head. Once it was ground smooth the tensioner simply pulls out and a vice grip breaks the bolt which is only set at 25nm.
Was checking online and I think I'll use a hack other lads have tried. An M8 bolt with 13mm hex head either 50mm o cut to 50mm long and use it in place of the torx head bolt that comes with the kits. All it does it tighten down the tensioner/adjuster for the cam belt so doesn't matter the type of head so long as it only covers the centre of the tensioner.
The water pump came out without a fight and my God, it didn't half need done. Bad rusting around the enitre unit both inside and outside. Will need a good scrubbing with some fine sandpaper and a dremel before the new one is fitted. The picture will tell you all you need regarding the condition of it.
Will head out in the morning to get all new coolant, some gasket sealant (I like to use a small bit along with the gasket, and a service kit in the form of oil, oil filter, air filter, pollen filter, fuel filter, and perhaps a new set of spark plugs seeing as how I've the coil pack out.
That should keep her right for the foreseeable future (he said tempting fate once more 😁 )
Got this pair of LED number plate lights from Skoda for the Octavia. They’re a pretty unknown part by the looks of it.
Better than paying €35 each for genuine Golf ones anyway.
Unsure how the light output is, seems good anyway.
Came with pretty comprehensive instructions including how to code them!
All back together now. Didn't bother with pictures but the timing is set, the rocker cover repaired (the old gasket was brittle, had snapped, and was a disaster), new oil, oil filter, etc. and away she went with the first turn of the key. Sounds much quieter and the "flutter" I noticed the last couple of months is gone so happy out.