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The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,244 ✭✭✭ronanc15


    My CBR is mildly breaking my heart. Unloaded at Mondello on Monday but it wouldn't start :( running out of ideas so hoping someone hear might have some divine inspiration for me!

    Bike: 2005 CBR600RR

    Symptoms: Bike turns over but won't fire. Won't bump start. Lights are all coming on, fuel pump is priming but no dice. Started Sunday evening before it was put in the van. Next morning it started for 2 seconds, sounded ill and cut out. Hasn't started since.

    Action already taken: changed spark plugs, checked all the coils - no spark issues that I can see. Took off the fuel pipe at the fuel rail and primed it to make sure the pump was pushing fuel to the injectors, seems to be all good. Shook the absolute fcuk out of the tank in case there was any shite around the pump in the tank. Checked fuses etc, can't see any fried/blown. Changed the battery. I suspected the HISS immobiliser might be acting up but I believe (from youtubing) when HISS is triggered the fuel pump doesn't prime so that would rule that out.

    Things I haven't checked that I will checked tomorrow: bank angle sensor, kickstand sensor, neutral sensor.

    Anyone got any ideas outside of the above? I'm at a loss and probably at the end of my own abilities so next port of call is probably to drop it to a mechanic. Would hate to go to that hassle if it was something obvious I could have fixed though. SOS - SAVE MY SANITY!!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,923 ✭✭✭Wossack


    Smell of fuel out the exhaust when you crank it over?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,244 ✭✭✭ronanc15




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,923 ✭✭✭Wossack


    pretty comprehensive checks you done to date, and ruled out a lot

    I’d drain and replace the fuel at this stage. Then give it a few goes on the starter with throttle wide open try and blow as much of the suspect fuel through

    I was in a similar situation a few months back and had to lean on the starter a fair bit (4 or 5 good 20sec goes), but above got it going in the end, and running good since



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,475 ✭✭✭✭Esel
    Not Your Ornery Onager


    It might be flooded. Try starting it with the choke OFF and the throttle wide open.

    Not your ornery onager



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,244 ✭✭✭ronanc15


    Great minds. Drained and replace it yesterday. Alas, no luck. Tank was actually very clean internally and pump was in great nick, to the eye at least. I flashed the ecu to check for errors and got one relating to the MAP sensor. Thought HALLELUJAH! Checked the map sensor, cleaned it up, checked the vacuum hose, cleared the code. Still no luck :( it does make me wonder about the state of the contacts though, I have a haunting feeling a sensor is doing me over. Cant drop it to a mechanic for a few days so next up is a meticulous cleaning of all the electrical contacts. Lean angle sensor seems ok but im going to try bypass it out of desperation.

    Had tried WOT for 10-15secs at a time today but no luck. Even with starter fluid into the airbox, it barely sputters but makes no effort. I thought if it was a straight up fuel issue that it would at least run for a few seconds with the starter fluid.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,244 ✭✭✭ronanc15




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,923 ✭✭✭Wossack


    Love to know the solution when you get it 👍

    don’t think it’d be the MAP, bike should start and run (like shite, may not idle), but should start.. and sensors (sidestand, lean, neutral etc) I’d have thought would either cut spark or fuel pump, but both those ok by the sounds..

    check all your earths - the strap off battery, make sure is well snugged, and earth to the block (maybe multiple) doesn’t look green / eyelets frayed etc

    Did you check all your plugs after changing fuel? They may be pretty grotty at this stage and prob not helping things



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,923 ✭✭✭Wossack


    Sorry disregard my MAP sensor bit above - was thinking MAF.. unsure symptoms of a dodgy MAP sorry



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,068 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    To me it sounds like you have a connector, hose or something not fitted but how's the battery doing voltage wise at rest, and when cranking?

    Run another earth off the batt neg to frame.

    Have you checked your main fuse and wiring in and out of it, also the other safety circuits side stand and or clutch? Also kill switch wiring.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,068 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    New hoops inbound and noticed the chain side bearing was grumbly. My blind pullers failed, this was seriously fossilised in there.

    One M12 rawl, heat and some judicious force multiplication later....


    Reliance bearing to the rescue with dust seals wheel bearings front and rear (FAG) for under 50e. I figured if this one was bad the rest might be needing soon.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,068 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    Fox Mulder, cannot seem to figure out how to quote your previous post.

    Would never have though that part started out that shape. Flawless.

    This bike will have so many one off detail touches, fair play to you.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,244 ✭✭✭ronanc15


    Didn't check them after changing the fuel as they're brand new, only put them in a week ago and the sound when its turning over hasn't changed at all so I'm slow to pull them again. It still sounds like something electrical is fcuked somewhere but I've chased as many cables as I can and nothing looks fried or disconnected. Dropping it to a lad this weekend so fingers crossed.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,244 ✭✭✭ronanc15


    Yeah it stinks of a connector fcuked somewhere but I can't see anything disconnected or fried etc, have looked at as many wires and connectors as I can so far. Wiring to the kill switch looked good when I took it apart as did the sidestand. Can't remember if I checked the clutch one so I'll double check.

    Dropping it to a lad this weekend so fingers crossed. In the meantime I was reading the haynes manual (again) yesterday and it had a different reason for the fault code which was stored when I flashed it last week. Going by the Haynes code 15 is "Faulty No. 4 Primary Injector or wiring" which if accurate would cause exactly what's happening. BUT, I cleared the codes to see if it was an active fault or stored code and it's gone...so it looks to have been an old code. That being said I'm going to have another look specifically at that this evening. We live in hope :)

    EDIT: just tested the resistance on the 4 primary injectors, all within spec. DAYUM!

    Post edited by ronanc15 on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,489 ✭✭✭omerin


    Know very little about electrics, maybe someone could point me in the right direction.

    Have a new usb charger with the live and earth cable coming off it, no fuse, relay etc. attached. Is it ok to join it sae to sae, on to the sae cable used to connect to the battery charger? It has a fuse, no relay. Won't need the usb charger working all the time, assume if i left it connected it would drain the battery as it wont be hooked up to a relay. I guess sae cables are avaible online/halfords to crimp to the cables coming off the usb charger, and connect to the sae cable when required, or am I wrong? Thanks in advance



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,923 ✭✭✭Wossack


    Had to look up sae cables…! So sounds like they are the tails you attach direct to the battery for charging

    I think you’ve probably gotten the cons in your post above alright. If you connect the usb to the sae connector that’s coming direct from the battery, while it will at least be protected by a fuse, it will be always on. And it may be that the usb circuitry may have a constant drain (just by the nature of the voltage step down, or even if there is a led indicator), which is sort of no bueno, if you want your bike to start after a hiatus

    i don’t know if the cables are easily gotten from Halfords etc


    have a look into “fuse taps” and how they are used to wire dash cams etc. I figure it could be a pretty straightforward, non-invasive option here



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,937 ✭✭✭horse7


    Hope you get to the bottom of it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,244 ✭✭✭ronanc15


    So, a month later I'm happy to report I can close this off. Eventually I had to tap out and send it to a guy locally to have a look.

    Side note: finding someone in the Limerick area to do work in a decent lead time is like crawling naked through a field of broken glass. Some lads shouldn't be allowed speak to the public too. Pig ignorant. Luckily I got sorted with a decent contact.

    Anyway, back on topic. It turned out that whatever had made its way to the injectors had completely solidified, in all 4 injectors. Still unsure whether that was fuel and gunk that was in the system from sitting idle before I bought it or bad fuel that went in after. I'd imagine the former, as I've used petrol from the same container since in other stuff with no hassle. He said it was quite deceiving as there was no obvious evidence in the tank or pump of shite but that might be because I had already drained it. He took apart the fuel system and cleaned it all anyway; pump, lines, rails, injectors. It is starting on the button and running sweet now. Thank fcuk for that!

    Just the humpty dumpty piecing back of fairings to do and fingers crossed she'll see the track next weekend.



  • Moderators, Business & Finance Moderators Posts: 18,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭Henry Ford III


    This week I am rebuilding brake calipers. One of the fronts had a seized piston and slide. I'd been driving for 12 months on half a front brake!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 314 ✭✭robbie_63


    Let us know how you get on, I have to do the same myself, I ordered a cheap 2nd hand set from ebay so I can clean them up and just swap onto the bike



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,260 ✭✭✭Trigger Happy


    Removed the sissy bar and pillion seat and replaced with a back plate. Much more the look I am after.

    IMG_3931.JPG




  • Moderators, Business & Finance Moderators Posts: 18,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭Henry Ford III


    Will do. I ordered a 3 caliper rebuild kit from Crossan's. Due tomorrow and it shouldn't be too bad to put together I hope.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,923 ✭✭✭Wossack


    You might find bleeding the callipers again to be next to impossible using the regular top down bleeding process

    if you get yourself something to give a bit of vacuum on the bleed nipple to draw fluid down, you’ll have a much better time of it



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Time for new rubber.

    Il give it a clean and a once over while I'm at it.

    May as well give it the acf50 treatment while I'm at it.

    IMG_20210902_094327.jpg


    IMG_20210902_095524.jpg




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    One fork leaking so I made up a sealmate and it seems to have sorted it.

    IMG_20210902_140412.jpg




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Just a few photos of bike after a bit of cleaning/maintenance.

    I have this bike about 4.5 years and it needed some tlc when I got it.

    It's looking 10 times the bike now than when I bought it.

    IMG_20210904_104203.jpg IMG_20210904_103710.jpg IMG_20210904_103521.jpg IMG_20210904_103900.jpg IMG_20210904_103321.jpg IMG_20210904_103401.jpg IMG_20210904_104306.jpg




  • Moderators, Business & Finance Moderators Posts: 18,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭Henry Ford III


    All done and the front brake is transformed.

    Just needed to be thorough in the cleaning, and methodical too.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,266 ✭✭✭Richard tea


    I need to do this with my NC. I replaces the seals and oil last year but the right fork is leaking again. If memory serves me right a cut up milk carton will do the job?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    I've never used a milk cartoon but anything plastic packaging should do.

    You might be inclined to change seals but this works for me most times.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,923 ✭✭✭Wossack


    Used to be film negatives, but hard to find these days



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