Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

LED lighting General discussion, read here before posting a question.

Options
12021222325

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 6,288 ✭✭✭positron


    Thanks freddyuk. Any comments on where to find "good quality" LED lights for under counter use?

    I was thinking of getting 5050 LED strips and fitting it in a such way that if they fade / fail, I can easily change the strip (reusing transformer, switches and all other wiring) but open to suggestions on reliable alternatives.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,040 ✭✭✭gooner99


    Hi. Looking to replace a outside halogen pir light. From reading I guess led is the way to go. What should I be looking at?


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,668 ✭✭✭✭josip


    gooner99 wrote: »
    Hi. Looking to replace a outside halogen pir light. From reading I guess led is the way to go. What should I be looking at?

    I would suggest a Steinel sourced cheaper from Amazon.de

    https://www.amazon.de/Steinel-LED-Strahler-LED-Scheinwerfer-Bewegungsmelder-002695/dp/B0049OB7VY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473715326&sr=8-2&keywords=steinel


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,040 ✭✭✭gooner99


    josip wrote: »

    Thanks. That looks the business. Anything similar that not as costly?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,400 ✭✭✭evosteo


    gooner99 wrote: »
    Thanks. That looks the business. Anything similar that not as costly?

    led floods are fairly expensive, the best value ones i found were from lidl, 20w output and around €25 i think. i put them up to replace the old 300w halogen ones around the boundary of the house.

    the light off them is fantastic, like day light.

    no problems with them so far after nearly 2 years


  • Advertisement
  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 86 ✭✭Tom Hagen


    Guys, new build, want to put spot light in my kitchen/dining room? its a long room. prob take 10 spots at least.

    Will LED GU10 bulbs do this job for me? any info appreciated.

    I would like to put an outdoor light sitting low in my lawn and shining back against the house , any recommendations what would be useful for that job?


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,296 ✭✭✭✭salmocab


    Yeah GU10 led's will do the job, there are better fittings available but they tend to be all in one units so not as easy to replace in the future if you start having trouble where as the GU 10 is just a lamp and easily replaced. regards the light in the garden there are plenty of spots on spikes available again if you go for GU 10 ones its easy to fix in the future and a spare or two will cover both your kitchen and garden.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 86 ✭✭Tom Hagen


    Guys, low level lighting for a staircase.
    chasing walls soon for electrical.

    anybody recommend low level lights for a staircase?
    they will be mounted/chased onto the wall lighting across the step.

    and do I need an LED driver ?? any help appreciated


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,539 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Tom Hagen wrote: »
    Guys, low level lighting for a staircase.
    chasing walls soon for electrical.

    I saw some nice ones in Eurosales Sandyford beside the counter
    and do I need an LED driver ?? any help appreciated

    Depends on what you buy.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,296 ✭✭✭✭salmocab


    Tom Hagen wrote: »
    Guys, low level lighting for a staircase.
    chasing walls soon for electrical.

    anybody recommend low level lights for a staircase?
    they will be mounted/chased onto the wall lighting across the step.

    and do I need an LED driver ?? any help appreciated

    You might want to consider that once you put these in you are stuck with them, so 5 years time when one goes its bloody difficult to change. If you can do it in a way that they can be replaced you might save future Tom a lot of hassle.


  • Advertisement
  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 86 ✭✭Tom Hagen


    salmocab wrote: »
    You might want to consider that once you put these in you are stuck with them, so 5 years time when one goes its bloody difficult to change. If you can do it in a way that they can be replaced you might save future Tom a lot of hassle.


    What do you suggest? is there easier lights to replace. I see your point thanks for the tip off


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,296 ✭✭✭✭salmocab


    Tom Hagen wrote: »
    What do you suggest? is there easier lights to replace. I see your point thanks for the tip off

    Don't know which lights but if you could get 240 volt ones that don't need a driver and you had a bit of space behind the riser of the stair then in the future you may be able to pull out the fitting cut the cables join onto the new fitting and push the connection back into the void. If under your stairs is a big cupboard this might not matter but I have installed lights over the years that would be pretty tough to replace without wrecking walls or woodwork, all you can do is advise clients in those circumstances.


  • Registered Users Posts: 644 ✭✭✭cichlid child


    Hi is there any shop in Dublin that has a good range of Phillips Hue lighting. I was in woodies that has 2 different bulbs and that's it. I would like to go and see a full range of the Hue range.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭Sconsey


    Hi,
    I had my house completely rewired about a year ago, electrician did a great job overall, but I made one mistake which I only spotted recently. In the kitchen he fitted LED down lights in ceiling, connected to a dimmer switch. I asked him to also wire up another switch in the wall and run to the location where I was getting new kitchen presses fitted. I told him I would install and connect some LED's under the new presses.
    Recently I finally got round to trying to install the LED's under the presses. I purchased some LED strips which have a plug and (I believe) a transformed embedded in the plug. I wired up a socket from the cable in the wall left by the electrician. The problem is the socket will not power the LED's when I plug them in. The socket will not power anything I plug into it but there is power in the cable (tested using one of those pen devices that detect current). I believe the problem is that the cable I am working with is same as the cable running the ceiling downlights, no need for the transformer.
    So what are my options (my capability's don't go beyond wiring a plug!), is it possible to get LED strips the can be plugged into the socket that don't have a built in transformer?
    Thanks


  • Moderators, Social & Fun Moderators Posts: 15,017 Mod ✭✭✭✭AndyBoBandy


    I'd wonder are the LED lights he installed 12v, and is the supply to your new socket only 12v?

    it sounds like your LED strip needs 230v supply to work properly.


  • Registered Users Posts: 203 ✭✭ptogher14


    It's unlikely that the cable ran to the press lights from the ceiling lights is on the load side of the transformer so it should have 230v available.

    It's possible the sparks hasn't terminated the other end of the cable for safety reasons. (If he had you'd have a live cable hanging down at the press)

    However you have said you've tested this cable and it is live. (I personally don't find voltage pens reliable and don't like using them)

    If this cable is live yet still won't power anything it sounds like a broken neutral. Either way it sounds like an easy fix for a qualified sparks and it may be safest to get one to sort it out for you.


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,322 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    Sounds like a broken neutral. Kill the main breaker open the socket and check it's it's connected correctly.

    If the above confuses you get a sparks


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,322 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    I'd wonder are the LED lights he installed 12v, and is the supply to your new socket only 12v?

    it sounds like your LED strip needs 230v supply to work properly.

    Very unlikely


  • Moderators, Social & Fun Moderators Posts: 15,017 Mod ✭✭✭✭AndyBoBandy


    ted1 wrote: »
    Very unlikely

    I was thinking that, some flow but not enough to run anything, and then copped what was mentioned about the neutral.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,919 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Sconsey wrote:
    Hi, I had my house completely rewired about a year ago, electrician did a great job overall, but I made one mistake which I only spotted recently. In the kitchen he fitted LED down lights in ceiling, connected to a dimmer switch. I asked him to also wire up another switch in the wall and run to the location where I was getting new kitchen presses fitted. I told him I would install and connect some LED's under the new presses. Recently I finally got round to trying to install the LED's under the presses. I purchased some LED strips which have a plug and (I believe) a transformed embedded in the plug. I wired up a socket from the cable in the wall left by the electrician. The problem is the socket will not power the LED's when I plug them in. The socket will not power anything I plug into it but there is power in the cable (tested using one of those pen devices that detect current). I believe the problem is that the cable I am working with is same as the cable running the ceiling downlights, no need for the transformer. So what are my options (my capability's don't go beyond wiring a plug!), is it possible to get LED strips the can be plugged into the socket that don't have a built in transformer? Thanks


    You should test with a multi meter so you know what you are dealing with, 12v or 230v. Another option is to phone the electrician & ask him is it low voltage or 230v


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 23,322 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    You should test with a multi meter so you know what you are dealing with, 12v or 230v. Another option is to phone the electrician & ask him is it low voltage or 230v

    Could a sparks sign off and issue a cert where he connected a 12v supply to a 3 pin 10A socket that is on a lighting ring?


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,919 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    ted1 wrote:
    Could a sparks sign off and issue a cert where he connected a 12v supply to a 3 pin 10A socket that is on a lighting ring?


    Could he? Yes. Should he? No
    I know it's not likely but I just thought the simplest option is to test it or ask the guy who installed it.

    My sister converted a gym into 3 self contained apartments around 10 or 15 years ago. Builder provided the sparks whole in turn provided the reci cert. She later had issues with the electrics (I can't remember what). The electrictrican was at first unable to sort it & then unwilling to sort it. She got in touch with reci. Turns out the electrictrican bought the cert. Reci made the guy who issued the cert rewire the 3 apartments.
    It's a long story but it shows that you never really know


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭Sconsey


    Thank you for the replies. I think the fault is mostly mine in not clearly describing what I wanted to the electrician. Just to clarify some of the questions/comments:
    The electrician did not attach a socket to the lighting loop, I did. I didn't realize it was on the lighting loop, or rather I didn't realize the lights are on a different voltage and probably a converted to DC, so he didn't do anything dodgy.
    He did leave the cable out of the wall live but he wrapped the end of cable in tape and sealed it in a small plastic box so it was not left in a dangerous state. The cable is live though and connected back to the light switch on wall.
    I think the scenario AndyBoBandy described is where I am, remembering that I, not the electrician, connected a socket to a cable that was probably never meant to have one. I will test with a mulitmeter. I think the socket has to go, that was my mistake.


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,322 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    Sconsey wrote: »
    Thank you for the replies. I think the fault is mostly mine in not clearly describing what I wanted to the electrician. Just to clarify some of the questions/comments:
    The electrician did not attach a socket to the lighting loop, I did. I didn't realize it was on the lighting loop, or rather I didn't realize the lights are on a different voltage and probably a converted to DC, so he didn't do anything dodgy.
    He did leave the cable out of the wall live but he wrapped the end of cable in tape and sealed it in a small plastic box so it was not left in a dangerous state. The cable is live though and connected back to the light switch on wall.
    I think the scenario AndyBoBandy described is where I am, remembering that I, not the electrician, connected a socket to a cable that was probably never meant to have one. I will test with a mulitmeter. I think the socket has to go, that was my mistake.

    It could also be AC


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,584 ✭✭✭ronan45


    Probably really silly question BUT

    Can anyone tell me the difference between the power usage Wattage between these?

    One is incandescent Bulb the other an LED.. But what I cant figure out is they are the same size yet, same Voltage, same wattage....both 5 Watt.... I thought the LED Equivalent uses less watts/ electricity?:confused:


    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ultra-Vision-Number-Interior-Festoon/dp/B01GJYRAXA/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1478280868&sr=1-2&keywords=festoon+5+watt


    https://www.amazon.co.uk/BargainBitz-Festoon-Bulbs-Interior-Number/dp/B007OUVSHI/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1478281324&sr=1-1&keywords=festoon+5+watt+38


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,322 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    ronan45 wrote: »
    Probably really silly question BUT

    Can anyone tell me the difference between the power usage Wattage between these?

    One is incandescent Bulb the other an LED.. But what I cant figure out is they are the same size yet, same Voltage, same wattage....both 5 Watt.... I thought the LED Equivalent uses less watts/ electricity?:confused:


    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ultra-Vision-Number-Interior-Festoon/dp/B01GJYRAXA/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1478280868&sr=1-2&keywords=festoon+5+watt


    https://www.amazon.co.uk/BargainBitz-Festoon-Bulbs-Interior-Number/dp/B007OUVSHI/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1478281324&sr=1-1&keywords=festoon+5+watt+38

    The LED is a brighter and whiter light. So same power but different light output


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,584 ✭✭✭ronan45


    ahhh ok yes defo brighter ! i though maybe reduction in electricity bill but thats fine. cheers mate:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,322 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    ronan45 wrote: »
    ahhh ok yes defo brighter ! i though maybe reduction in electricity bill but thats fine. cheers mate:)

    5w left on 24 7 costs 7.84c for a year

    17 c a kWh 365*24/200


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,296 ✭✭✭✭salmocab


    Sconsey wrote: »
    (tested using one of those pen devices that detect current).

    those pens don't generally detect voltage less than 200 volts or so it should have a rating on it


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 34,104 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    ronan45 wrote: »
    ahhh ok yes defo brighter ! i though maybe reduction in electricity bill but thats fine. cheers mate:)

    Bill? Those bulbs are for cars.
    ted1 wrote: »
    5w left on 24 7 costs 7.84c for a year

    17 c a kWh 365*24/200

    That works out as 7.45 EURO per year.

    Fingal County Council are certainly not competent to be making decisions about the most important piece of infrastructure on the island. They need to stick to badly designed cycle lanes and deciding on whether Mrs Murphy can have her kitchen extension.



Advertisement