Arcade Talk 24/7/365

Inviere

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120497314#Comment_120497314

That's odd. I've a duratool desoldering station, and have used it extensively. No issues whatsoever with it. Obviously won't be as good as the Hakko, but for ~€100 it's worth it's weight in gold for retro repairs etc.

I use the smallest nozzle most of the time, set the station to between 330c and 360c depending on the job, and it just works. It's not uncommon for me to add fresh solder to a joint before removing the solder, it helps in the case of really old/dull solder joints, but I've never had an issue of it damaging a trace or the pcb itself.

KeRbDoG

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120497314#Comment_120497314

I'd easily recommend the Hakko, the only negative is the price. If we lived in 100/110V land it would be cheap but in 220/240 land it is expensive. The cheapest I found it was from Eleshop.eu

I didn't need to use any new solder on any pins/components, 99% of them all the solder cleared in the first 2~3 second heat up and a click of the trigger.

Inviere

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120497923#Comment_120497923

Most of the time I find adding fresh solder to old solder for removal just means a cleaner extraction, and less time with the gun on the board. I really only do it where plastic is concerned, say the Amiga keyboard connector removal job etc. It can also work very well on old solder contaminated with capacitor gunk, that stuff can be quite stubborn.

The Hakko looks to be the bees knees though. You mention it doesn't need to be cleaned much, how does it get around that?

KeRbDoG

My non scientific thinking - I found with the cheaper units, solder would need to be cleared within the desoldering gun with the 'poking wand' every so many components removed. I think that was more to do with needing to use the suction more as it couldn't effectively push the heat into the joint/board so you continue to heat the joint as you are hitting the trigger, temp drops of the solder you are removing so it would solidify too soon while being drawn up.

The Hakko seems to be able to push the heat into a connection really well and able to keep the temp very stable. Less suction attempts needed etc. It will still need to be cleaned, but didn't let me know mid job... at least not yet 😃

Inviere

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120497976#Comment_120497976

Ah, makes sense. No doubt they've a massively more efficient method of thermal transfer. The mistake people tend to make with the more affordable stations I find, is they're not letting it heat up correctly. You're supposed to leave it heating up for 10 to 15 minutes BEFORE you even use it. This ensures that not only is the nozzle up to temp, but the vacuum chamber, and collection cylinder are all at a temp that won't cause that horrible instant solidifying of solder (which is what causes the blocks.)

I clean the gun with the rod every few components anyway, just out habit. Wiping the nozzle then every few uses helps with heat transfer too.

80s Synth Pop

It's probably me so :D

I've found china de-soldering pumps are fine on the few CRT chassis I've recapped/repairs (all hantarex) as they have good sized "through holes" on the caps/transistors and the pump nozzle tip is a perfect fit touching all solder around the pin.

The arcade PCBs I've worked on (late a 80's, early 90's) though is another story. All the LS and ram chips have smaller through holes than the nozzle diameter.

The "proskit" pump smallest nozzle is 1mm and that's too big. The smallest tip on the other ZD-915 pump says it's 0.8 but is still too big. Half the nozzle is touching the solder and half is touching the bare PCB board causing that small ring mark on the PCB around the hole.

Had a look at the Hakko: Is this it: https://eleshop.eu/hakko-fr-301-desoldering-gun.html ?

KeRbDoG

Thats the one - it was a Christmas present to myself last year :)

Jack burton

Need some advice for one of my cabs

I have a HoTD2 with mobo graphic chip damage, so garbled graphics. It's like a beta naomi style motherboard so hard to replace. There's one gun with a broken trigger and another gun from a different game that works.

Last time I checked it worked but I remember having to hold the gun close tthe screen so I'm not sure how the light sensor is holding up.

Going to tackle it this summer hopefully so wondering what's the best route to take?

I know there's emulation available for the arcade version now, so do I build a PC to emulate it? Or is it possible to another console in there? Maybe the Dreamcast?

What do ye reckon is my best option?

geotrig

I'm fairly sure you can netboot hotd2 now ,i know there was issues around before but i'm sure i saw that it was fixed ... ,but i would try and get the board fixed or pick up another board stack if you cant get the board stack fixed.

my opinion will always be fix it first --> burn it with fire :P ill never pick emulation willingly

KeRbDoG

Seems to be some chat on Arcade-Projects on NetDIMMing HOTD2 - https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/house-of-the-dead-2-netboot.5901/

Doesn't look clean cut

geotrig

best try neo arcadia as they were more up to date on this stuff, but i'm still fairly sure i saw somewhere that it was working on netdimm now.

80s Synth Pop

HOTD2 definitely works for normal naomi's on the netboot now. Write the latest multibios from mathieulh for a standard naomi (Search: naomi multi bios fixed with proper bootstrap) then use Chunksins wipi netbooter image (search: Naomi Pi WiPi Netbooter).

The original cart/gdrom might work on a regular naomi with that new bios.

If you need to go emulation, it works very well. I've an old video on the subject here (skip ahead to around 20 mins in):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8w2MXsq2l6I&t=1196s

Using aimtrak guns in the video above but could just as easily be gun4ir, sinden; sonik's guncon2/3 driver etc (although I'd say you could even get your Naomi guns interfaced with the PC using a u-hid for an even better experience)

On the other hand if you want to use your naomi but the original lightguns are faulty then you can interface regular PC lightguns to naomi using an "openjvs" add on board (enable openjvs in the WiPi Netbooter software)

KeRbDoG

Wonder if someone might be knowledable about coin mechs used in Sega Naomi cabs and others (Dinos used them also), they are a C120 type. Seem like they can be programmed for different coints. Curious if anyone has ever played around with them or found a way to replace them with a generic type 'switch' mech.

Yup, you can just wire the service switch to a button for coin and for the generic coin mechs you can replace with a 3D printed funnel type thing - but I'm just curious if anyone knows anymore about the C120 mechs.

This interest is after I picked up those MVS/Yen coins mentioned earlier on here :) work great in the Atomiswave cab. Some thing nice

80s Synth Pop

Any Time Crisis 2 fans? It's fully playable start to finish in the latest MAME released today.

dav09

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120530269#Comment_120530269

Oh fantastic! I've been waiting for this for a long time, would love a cab but have been putting it off due to Super System 23 being a big pain when I've worked on it, that's great news.

o1s1n

Just had to buy myself a new PSU for the Pony cabinet. Only place I could source a good quality SuzoHapp switching one was from Arcade World UK.

44.99 GBP for the PSU

25.84 GBP for postage/VAT

82 euro all in for a power supply. 😮 madness.

Once it's installed I'll be moving on to the even pricer endeavour of buying another DE10 Nano!

The Last Bandit

Yep prices of stuff has got insane, I was on Farnell earlier ordering parts and a single power supply capacitor I need is almost 20 euro :(

geotrig

bought a suzo happ one in Jan from arcade xpress(Think they are spanish )for €50 and was gauled at that price ,spent ages looking as well as I just didn't want the hassle of ordering from the UK !

need a few chips for board repairs and its horrendous just looking at postage and all that ,30 quid for a few ram and another 30quid elsewhere to get the others if needed.something that was quickish and easy before is just a pain.

o1s1n

Arcade Express! I knew there had to be a website in Europe that I didn't know about, seems to be a real lack of places to get good arcade parts in the EU.

Usually end up just going to Paradise Arcade shop but they only seem to have Wei Ya PSUs which I've been told are shite.

eddhorse

Did you get stung for customs on Arcade World too?

geotrig

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120668146#Comment_120668146

this was from them a while back

Shipping to EU Member States - IOSS (Import One-Stop Shop)

B2C (Business 2 Consumer Only)

We use IOSS (Import One-Stop Shop) for shipping parcels to customers in the EU member states. This applies to B2C only (Business 2 Consumer).

We display the Tax and relevant duties at the time of shopping on our website and the price you pay includes tax and duties. There will be nothing else to pay once your order arrives in your country. Business customers based in the EU members states will be shipped using DDU (Delivery Duties Unpaid) and will be responsible for paying their own taxes/duties once their parcel arrives in their country.

o1s1n

Yeah when I paid for it I had to prepay the import taxes but they did deduct the UK VAT price so that was good to see.

Won't be landing until next week so we shall see how it goes!

o1s1n

Arcade PSU arrived today, no additional import duties to argue with customs about so that was great.

Fecking wreaked after work but I had to try installing it as I've been wondering if my Pony's issues have been the PSU for a year and a half now.

Basically the issue is that the 5v fluctuated all over the place and PCBs were loading with garbled graphics and a mad loud static noise through the speaker. Monitor also had crazy rolling interference over it too. My MiSTercade wouldn't boot with it at all.

Funnily enough though my cheapo Chinese multi boards were booting (still with some sound issues). Seems they don't have as much of an issue with variable 5v.

Annoyingly the PSU set to 230v and the jumper to change it to 110v was almost impossible to get to. Just could not get it lifted with a pliers so I'd to remove the casing get access to it. Managed to sort it in the end but it was an absolute pain in the ass.

Now to actually get the thing installed.

I'd two things that had me worried about installing this.

1 - everything installing correctly first time and nothing being fried. Bloody expensive cabinet so I don't even want to hazard a guess at the potential cost of further fixes.

2 - the new PSU not solving my issues as I really was unsure where to go next if it didn't.

Out with the old, in with the new:

This was also an absolute pain in the ass. The cables are only so long so I'd to stick my head inside a very very small machine with a control panel that sticks out a mile and then screw down those little terminals almost blind.

Got them all in, double checked everything.. wired up Raiden 2 with a 5V meter on the jamma edge, held my breath and...

Game booted perfectly! No high pitched static buzz from the speaker, just beautiful music from the PCB. Monitor has no interference on it at all. So it was a dodgy PSU after all.

Replacing a PSU really isn't a big deal, but I've had a bit of a block in giving it a go, I think partially out of fear that it wouldn't solve the problem.

Next step now will be to finally get a vertical MiSTer setup going. In the meantime there will be a lot of Raiden 2 booming out of it.

eddhorse

Amazing, great result, they look super.

Inviere

Nice work, love it when you have a concisive fix like that. Vertical Mister setup will be sweet alongside the hori one.

tonyotonyo

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120683776#Comment_120683776

https://ibb.co/9wQCDjT

Yessum

o1s1n

Cheers lads! Yeah im over the moon.

Curiosity got the better of me this evening and I just had to try out the MiSTercade in it.

And she boots!

I was assuming the controls would need to be remapped with a vertical mister profile but no, they're all set up for Tate orientation already.

So basically the menus you've to navigate with your head side ways but all the games play as they should.

I'll still get another DE10 for this cabinet but it's pretty amazing that you can just switch it between cabinets with only the menu being a slight annoyance.

I was actually going to get my Mercs board down out of the attic before it dawned on me to try this out, apparently I don't need to now :D

Inviere

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120684388#Comment_120684388

I'm 99% sure I spotted, while digging around in the Mister.ini file, the flag to rotate the on screen menu controls....

Inviere

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120684806#Comment_120684806

Yep, I knew I seen somewhere:

osd_rotate - Rotate the OSD. Useful for when you rotate your monitor for certain Arcade cores. 0 - no rotation, 1 - rotate right (+90°), and 2 - rotate left (-90°).

https://mister-devel.github.io/MkDocs_MiSTer/advanced/ini/#menu-settings

o1s1n

Excellent! I completely forgot you could actually edit the Mister.ini from within the OSD itself without having to do it on a PC. Will give that a go this evening.