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Arcade Talk 24/7/365

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,018 ✭✭✭Colonel Panic


    I'm delighted he's back in action!

    Mine was around €1000 two years ago before shipping but it was in much better condition.

    I'm close to giving up on another candy cab myself due to price increases.



  • Registered Users Posts: 34,533 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Mine was €675 back in 2015 before shipping, less than half the price. Different world 8 years ago though I suppose! It also came from that 'Granny's Arcade' haul so he had an absolute tonne of Aeros to unload.

    I'm sure there are plenty of folks happy to pay these prices (still better value than a lot of rubbish MAME cabinets you see for sale)

    I definitely couldn't justify spending that on an Aero though, as lovely as they are. €1000 would probably be my upper limit before feeling like I was being gouged.

    Yeah glad to hear he's back in action, I take it that means the surgery was a success :)



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,718 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Whats the going rate for a chopped Naomi these days (converted to Mame) ?



  • Registered Users Posts: 716 ✭✭✭80s Synth Pop


    If done correctly, converting to mame is "plug and play" so nothing to reverse to stock other than unplug the pc and put in the naomi. I'd say in Ireland 400-500 for good condition. Less than 400 for a fixer upper. Double that in UK (Shipping pallets from UK is a customs pain).


    If it's not already chopped consider not chopping it. The naomi cab is so versatile non-chopped with the wide range of control panels that as easy to swap out. Some can be played chopped but many are uncomfortable and better when standing:


    Light gun games

    Shootout pool

    Monkeyball

    Golf



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,018 ✭✭✭Colonel Panic


    Stupid question time: What's a chopped Naomi?

    Also, it is possible to get Naomi cabinets in Ireland at the moment?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,731 ✭✭✭geotrig


    Japan never really had the Naomi universal but net city& new net city, which is basically a sit down uni cab outside of monitor differences,there was spare legs available for years so easy conversion or most just chopped down the legs themselves



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,718 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    I much prefer mine chopped just more comfortable sitting down at it. Was rough and incomplete when I got it so no qualms about stripping it down and getting out the grinder.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,224 ✭✭✭KeRbDoG


    My Naomi cab when I bought it in 2011

    After a good bit of Dremel 'fun'

    For a house/games room, a stand up Naomi feels too big - converting it to a sit down is the only way to go.



  • Registered Users Posts: 34,533 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    A Naomi cut down to size to make it a sit down cabinet, looks more like a New Net City.


    Edit - didn't see Kerbdogs post, that's a lovely job!



  • Registered Users Posts: 716 ✭✭✭80s Synth Pop


    If you are joystick only then chopped/sit down is probably best but if you plan on getting a net-dimm and adding light gun games or non-joystick control panels for swapping around in the future then full height leaves all options open.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,731 ✭✭✭geotrig


    Yeah but adding sensors is a allache and all that, chop all Naomis and just hunt out a dedicated gun set up if needs be



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,773 ✭✭✭Jack burton


    If you think a stand up Naomi is big then check out a crazy taxi one. The footprint is almost doubled



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,851 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Would anyone know the correct name for these connectors? I've done a search for 12 pin JST and similar and am just finding the long 12 pin versions.

    Basically I was lazy and instead of making my own I ordered 2 new control panel harnesses for my Egret 3 as I'm doing a refresh on the machine. They came from Japan-Arcade on eBay who I've purchased from in the past. What arrived(and in fairness is what's listed in the auction after examining the pics) is 2 harnesses with the white connect seen in the pic, what I have and need is the red connector. I guess I'm going to have to rewire it, but I probably need different pins, so need the JST name.


    Anyone know the correct names?





  • Registered Users Posts: 2,919 ✭✭✭TechnoFreek


    Think thay might be JST YL 12 pin. Or VL. Possibly......

    Really plumbing the depths of the memory on this one steve!

    https://www.ebay.ie/itm/334552640086?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=5282-175127-2357-0&ssspo=3p4B-k2YRae&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=YLNv-UszQ8K&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY



    https://gateninety.com/product/jst-ylr-12v-12-female-contacts/



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,851 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Thanks for that. Yeah that ebay listing looks pretty close to the white one alright. And I think the term i was missing was AMP UP connector when searching. I found what looks like a 15 pin version of the red one, so the search continues for a 12 pin version.

    All fun and games :)



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,919 ✭✭✭TechnoFreek


    Did you go through that gateninety site I linked above. They seem to have a good selection of JST connectors.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,851 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    It turns out that red connector is Sega AMP connector(not standard JST?AMP UP). But what I didn't realise is the Egret 3(an probably the Atomiswave SD) is wired to accept that connector for P1 and P2,or the standard JST 12 pin that's on the new harness for P2. The only issue is alternative P1 is a 15 pin male connector, so I still have to rewire or rebuy.

    Still, I learned something new today about my Egret 3 which I've had since 2011 😀



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,851 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Went down to the garage and had a gander in my arcade bits boxes. Sitting at the very top of the first box was 2 of the exact connectors I need 😀

    I forgot just how much arcade stuff I picked up "just to have" and "just in case" over the years.




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,919 ✭✭✭TechnoFreek


    Great result. Do you have the pins then to go with them?



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,851 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    I have a load of pins, but they all seem a tiny bit too large for these connectors. I'll have a better look tomorrow, but I'll probably have buy some in.

    I think this is the correct one, but will confirm before buying.





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  • Registered Users Posts: 104 ✭✭tonyotonyo


    Big news for .00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000001 % of people.

    Fella in France has finally cracked the conversion problem for killer instinct. Not only can you get both ki games working on a single pcb now, but he's managed to get a much better diagnostic menu too instead of the dreaded blue or red bong that'd deafen you. More software than hardware and nearly finished.




  • Registered Users Posts: 816 ✭✭✭dav09


    I almost have PTSD from dealing with these PCBs, trying to find the exact voltage they will work on (some I've found need exactly 5 and others need 5.05ish and if the PSU allows any fluctuation it will not boot/blue screen). Sent PCBs for repair and HDD upgrades and still the same after a few weeks. But definitely the worst of the Midway's boards.

    If I could have one working PCB that would be a start haha. That's quite cool though. I'm honestly not a fighting game fan but KI2 is extremely cool as a game, underrated soundtrack too.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,731 ✭✭✭geotrig


    Midways sound bites and music was fairly on point... Pity about the flakey boards though😅



  • Registered Users Posts: 104 ✭✭tonyotonyo


    Delicate boards for sure. But I think it's like a lit of things, if a problem isn't made it should stay going without problems.

    Had one before and in transporting it I knocked the heat sink. The heat sink is attached to the main cpu, broke some of the legs. Dropped in to some place for a soldering job, got it back in terrible condition. These things steamroll.

    Knock on wood, no problems with the ones left, kid gloves all the way.

    Best intro ever though for killer instinct. Wrong name, wrong year, game never even released in the end. A real time capsule blaring at you every time.


    Might as well add this in, another odd curiosity. This is an actual promotional videotape that was sent around to operators and used at shows before the game was finished. You can see loads of differences between it and the finished product. Cabinet always looked great.




  • Registered Users Posts: 716 ✭✭✭80s Synth Pop


    Really hoping the diagnostics menu helps me fix mine when it's released. 95% sure it's bad ram as I get half a blue screen with static all over it and no bong. I just asked him how hard would it be to add the diagnostics for RAM, VRAM and HDD and he came back with it implemented the next day. The guy is a genius.


    https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/killer-instinct-dual-board.5929/page-14#post-365002



  • Registered Users Posts: 34,533 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Question for folks out there, how bright do you run your arcade monitors?

    I've been using my cabinets a lot lately with the MiSTer (1-2 hour sessions rather than 30 minute blasts) and noticed I've been starting to get headaches. Stood back from my cabinet and the picture looks absolutely gorgeous, but it's definitely irritating my eyes. As a frame of reference, my brightness and contrast pots are dialled to about 45%, so they're not even pushing out half as high as they can go.

    Played about with the brightness and contrast and have it down to a point where it doesn't cause that 'I'm looking at a bright light' feeling in my eyeballs, but now it's looking a tad dark which is making the colours less vibrant.

    Both my cabinets have tinted bezels on them, so it's taking a little bit of the glare away.

    I dunno, maybe I'm just getting a old, sunglasses might be needed 😂



  • Registered Users Posts: 104 ✭✭tonyotonyo


    He's flying through it, knows what he's doing. The amount of killer instinct boards that could be revived off this would be huge.

    If you're getting a blue screen at all, or red, there's a good chance it isn't serious. What you need to watch out for is the static screen of small, multicoloured stripes, almost bound to be the cpu toasted.



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,198 ✭✭✭MrVestek


    You're getting old dude. Probably time to get your eyes tested. You can get a free eye test, glasses and frames through Specsavers by simply using your PPS.

    Had to do the same myself recently and now I use reading glasses for monitors / my phone etc.

    Happens to the best of us!



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,198 ✭✭✭MrVestek


    Don't worry though... they'll look good on you I promise! :-P



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  • Registered Users Posts: 104 ✭✭tonyotonyo


    I keep them low enough so as to preserve the monitor, but not too dark that you're missing detail. Like you say, with tinted glass the screen is already running brighter than it looks.

    It's getting to that danger point now with monitors where the supply is drying up quick. I have a nintendo system that uses 18" Sanyo's, basically no chance of replacements without paying really stupid money, and that's not including shipping and chances of breaking.

    Having spares is the way the go because they will be needed down the road, no question. It'll be a hard sell getting rid of a cabinet in the future with no monitor, and no chance of replacement for a buyer.



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