STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Jonnykitedude

Well the heat exchanger would pump air into the room 24/7 but the draw was never a problem until now.

Really? It was installed about 3 years ago when we built, I think the chimney flue is too close to the wall to use the vertical flue from the stove, if that makes sense?

I did notice that the flue going from the 90degree bend narrows to another part thats tied into the chimney but its impossible to get anything up it because the access from the stove and the 90 degree bend.

Thanks for the info, ill get the guy back.

Barry walsh

Hi All, I was on earlier and I think I have sourced a stove and a flue.
However the flue is single wall the whole way up (its a handmade flue welded heavy steel) The flue has to go through my back wall of my shed.
The shed is corrgated steel with spray foam insulation. Can I just cut a hole in the shed wall and fill with spray foam or should i cover this section of this pipe in some special material??

Robbie.G

Barry walsh wrote: »

Hi All, I was on earlier and I think I have sourced a stove and a flue.
However the flue is single wall the whole way up (its a handmade flue welded heavy steel) The flue has to go through my back wall of my shed.
The shed is corrgated steel with spray foam insulation. Can I just cut a hole in the shed wall and fill with spray foam or should i cover this section of this pipe in some special material??

The spray foam has to be cut 5 times the diameter if the single wall flue so if its 6 inch flue you have to cut back 30 inches all around flue.
If you use single wall outside your going to have problems with smoke and draw as the flue gases will not heat the flue enough for good draw as the cold air outside will cool the flue.
You should have no horizontal flue longer than 150mm and no 90 degree bends
And last of all make sure you fit a carbon monoxide alarm for your and anybody else's sake

Barry walsh

Hi Robbie cheers for all the advice

here is the link below it was a good price so if i have to cut and put twin wall on i will do so

http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/heating/4230262

what do you think?

Robbie.G

Barry walsh wrote: »

Hi Robbie cheers for all the advice

here is the link below it was a good price so if i have to cut and put twin wall on i will do so

http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/heating/4230262

what do you think?

Mulberry stoves are decent enough just be careful with the flue personally I would recommend anyone to use that flue.Contact a flue supplier and get price and advise on it.Check out flue manufacturer websites they have installation guides.

fuerte1976

Hey all,

Quick one. Can someone advise of a good sealant to use on an insert stove where the outlet from the stove goes up the chimney. Aul fella used heat cement but nearly poisened us when smoke billowed out through all the cracks when it dried.

Cheers in advance

Robbie.G

fuerte1976 wrote: »

Hey all,

Quick one. Can someone advise of a good sealant to use on an insert stove where the outlet from the stove goes up the chimney. Aul fella used heat cement but nearly poisened us when smoke billowed out through all the cracks when it dried.

Cheers in advance

Fire cement and fire rope to fill the gap are the proper thing to use

illionman

Hi all

I am looking at installing an insert boiler stove in the existing fireplace in my living room and I would like to know are there any stoves that are 450 or 500mm wide at the back. All the ones I have seen are only about 400mm, I presume to fit any fireplace 16" or 18". I burn mainly wood (mostly hardwood and get it free from my neighbour) so I would like a stove with a big fire box. My wife is not keen on removing the fireplace so I am limited to insert stoves and anyway the room where I am fitting the stove is very small. Also I would like a high capacity stove 3 - 5kW to the room and the remainder to hot water. The house has 15 radiators although I don't expect the stove to work miracles just help to keep down the oil bill. I am currently burning wood in the open fire - beautiful fire and very hot in the small living room but think that alot of heat is getting wasted. Also some of the plumbing remains from when a back boiler was fitted in the house so I imagine installation wouldn't be too difficult. Although I only burn timber I would prefer get a multi fuel stove so that I have the option to burn coal to generate more heat. I looked at Charnwood and the man in the shop said Stanly were bringing out a new insert boiler stove in the new year. What I really want to know is what is the biggest insert stove I can get. Big firebox and big capacity. I understand people have to be careful about specifying brands etc. but any help would be appreciated.

Qualitymark

Robbie.G wrote: »

Fire cement and fire rope to fill the gap are the proper thing to use

This is what was used in my old stove, and it was very fumey, and I have no doubt absolutely dangerous. I'd never use anything again but an actual flexible steel flue going up the inside of the chimney and well sealed and separate, with vermiculite insulating it.

longgonesilver

Jonnykitedude wrote: »

Hi All

Had a look over this tread and couldn't find anything similar to my problem.

We have a small mulberry stove with back boiler and 90degree bend in our living room, the house is airtight with heat recovery system in place, we had the chimney swept yesterday and after we lit a fire smoke pours out of the door when opened. This never happened before, the draw was unreal before we had the chimney swept.

Today I took off the steal plate on top of the stove to have a look and all seems fine but the smoke is still coming out so much we cant light it!

Any suggestions?

Sounds like the sweep left something blocking the bend of the flue. An ash hoover might shift it otherwise a flexible tool or a small hand and scrape it out You should be able to feel the draw when the chimney is clear.
Try to make sure that there is nothing solid there, like a bit of broken cement.

Brianne

illionman we've just fitted a Yola inset boiler stove. First night lighting tonight. 14 to Rads and 3 to room If you google Yola Stoves, I can't post a link. Totally Irish made in Wexford and came highly recommended to us by a guy in whose house we went to look at it in action. The rads were roasting and he had a lot of them. As we can only light small fires for the first few turns it will be a few nights before we ll get the full benefit of it.

Qualitymark

Brianne wrote: »

illionman we've just fitted a Yola inset boiler stove. First night lighting tonight. 14 to Rads and 3 to room If you google Yola Stoves, I can't post a link. Totally Irish made in Wexford and came highly recommended to us by a guy in whose house we went to look at it in action. The rads were roasting and he had a lot of them. As we can only light small fires for the first few turns it will be a few nights before we ll get the full benefit of it.

http://yolastoves.wordpress.com/17kw-inset-boiler/

Brianne

Thanks Qualitymark, thats the one. illionman forgot to mention this stove has a fine big firebox and also lovely size window.

illionman

Thanks for that Brianne and Qualitymary, I have never heard of that make. Good to hear they are made in Ireland. The output seems impressive. I would be interested to hear Brianne how it performs when you get it up and running properly. Thanks again,

Brianne

I ll post back here in about a week and let you know illionman.

fuerte1976

Robbie.G wrote: »

Fire cement and fire rope to fill the gap are the proper thing to use

Cheers for all the replies folks. Gonna go with the flex pipe to the top.

jamescc

hi all been skimming through this thread,

I have a question , I have a large stove that burns coal,logs etc. I am going to pull that out and get a smaller stove that will fit into where the fire should be , in the wall. the large one needs to be taken away to clean the chimney every year and it is too dangerous when the children come down.

question is I have an oil burner, can there be a duel system put in and what would I need.

thanks James.

if this has already I am sorry

hatch03

emg74 wrote: »

No exp of the Stratford EB20He but we installed the EB12HE during the summer and I am really happy with it. It is heating our rads really well. Seems to be fuel efficient and looks good. The glass is easy to keep clean and once cleaned it stays clean all day which is important to me.... I like to be able to see my fire

We got our walls pumped recently and upgraded the attic insulation last year (12 Yr old bungalow) and between that and the stove, I don't anticipate having to use the oil this year. The house seems to hold the heat well and I think the fact that the rads are warm for a long time, the house just doesn't seem to get cold at all.

I don't have any personal experience of the Stanley only that my in-laws have the Stanley Erin (I think, the big one with the pattern on the door) and to me it doesn't feel as solid as ours when ever I have to open and shut the door on theirs. I think a lot of people have great faith in them as they are a long established brand name but I don't know if they are as good as other stoves on the market. Also the glass on both my parent-in-laws and brother-in-laws stove never seems to be clean. I know MIL cleans her glass every day but to me it seems to be blackened all the time.... Only a small thing I'm sure but as I said earlier I like to be able to see the fire!!

Hello emg74,
Just a quick update, we have finally put in our stove a week ago and its been a complete success so far, we went for the Stratford EB20He, couldnt be happier with it, a nice tidy stove, putting out lots of heat to rads and room, house is nice and toasty.
Hopefully it will stand the test of time!!
Thanks for the help,

PadraigMc

I would like to fit an inset stove to this fireplace. Any recommendations? The width is 410mm by height 600mm

emg74

hatch03 wrote: »

Hello emg74,
Just a quick update, we have finally put in our stove a week ago and its been a complete success so far, we went for the Stratford EB20He, couldnt be happier with it, a nice tidy stove, putting out lots of heat to rads and room, house is nice and toasty.
Hopefully it will stand the test of time!!
Thanks for the help,

Glad you are happy with it. We have ours in about 6mths now, I really like it. It is heating the rads great. The house just seems to be warmer overall this winter. I suppose it is because there is heat in the rooms for a longer length of time as the oil would never be on all day. Even if the stove isn't making the rads really hot (eg when the fire has died down a bit) there is still low level heat in the rooms all the time. We are delighted, Haven't used the oil at all so far this year which is great, we turned it on last Sunday for 1/2 hour to make sure all circulating pumps etc were working.

We are mostly burning timber, smokeless coal (got a tonne of "rejects" in Arigna - mixed bags of Ecobrite & cosyglo) & some turf.

raglan

Hi hatch03 and emg74,
Regarding the stratford stove, we have a EB20 installed the last 2 months. We are very happy with hot water and heat to upstairs rooms with it, but feel there could be more heat to the actual rooming is in from the stove itself. We have tried burning anthracite as recommended by stove supplier but this itself was hit and miss and have since discovered a lot of people have problems burning anthracite. We are now burning ecobrite which seems to be much easier to handle and a mix of logs. But unless we have a good big fire on of logs and coal and dials open at 5, there doesn't seem to be a fantastic amount of heat to the room as I would expect from the volume of fuel. A lot of the time you can still place your hand on the top of the stove as its not raging hot, where as we had a small Stanley Oisin stove before which you couldn't touch the outer body because of the heat. I suspect it may be the different type of metal used for each stove, as Oisin seems to have a cast iron body. Just wondering have you experienced any difficulties with room heat, heat off the stove itself, any advice would be great. As I said apart from this problem, very happy with it.mmay also require experimenting more with different coals etc.....

emg74

raglan wrote: »

Hi hatch03 and emg74,
Regarding the stratford stove, we have a EB20 installed the last 2 months. We are very happy with hot water and heat to upstairs rooms with it, but feel there could be more heat to the actual rooming is in from the stove itself. We have tried burning anthracite as recommended by stove supplier but this itself was hit and miss and have since discovered a lot of people have problems burning anthracite. We are now burning ecobrite which seems to be much easier to handle and a mix of logs. But unless we have a good big fire on of logs and coal and dials open at 5, there doesn't seem to be a fantastic amount of heat to the room as I would expect from the volume of fuel. A lot of the time you can still place your hand on the top of the stove as its not raging hot, where as we had a small Stanley Oisin stove before which you couldn't touch the outer body because of the heat. I suspect it may be the different type of metal used for each stove, as Oisin seems to have a cast iron body. Just wondering have you experienced any difficulties with room heat, heat off the stove itself, any advice would be great. As I said apart from this problem, very happy with it.mmay also require experimenting more with different coals etc.....

Hiya, I amn't having a problem with the heat in the room, Lit the fire about an hour ago with just blocks of timber - temp when I came into the house was 20.4 in livingroom where stove is, temp now is 22.6 - It normally gets up to around 25degrees in the room. When the pump is sending the hot water to the rads, I normally leave the dial at the left of stove at about a 2, close off the bottom vent and have the air wash open. We upgraded the insulation in the walls and attic about 18mths ago and I think this is making a huge difference to the house. Hope this helps

walsheliz

Hi Guys,
Bought a Morso 1416.
I have. 16 year old house with a chimney in the living room where I am fitting the morso.
My plan is to fit a reducer from the clay pipe to an enamel flue that connects to the stove.
My questions Are as follows:
How do I seal the 8in reducer to the clay down pipe in the chimney? A step by step guide as well as full list of material please would be brilliant.

If i don't install the stove the way described above I have read that the ideal way is to install a flexible liner. Is this that much better than a normal flue that is reduced.?

Many thanks.

Qualitymark

walsheliz wrote: »

Hi Guys,
Bought a Morso 1416.
I have. 16 year old house with a chimney in the living room where I am fitting the morso.
My plan is to fit a reducer from the clay pipe to an enamel flue that connects to the stove.
My questions Are as follows:
How do I seal the 8in reducer to the clay down pipe in the chimney? A step by step guide as well as full list of material please would be brilliant.

If i don't install the stove the way described above I have read that the ideal way is to install a flexible liner. Is this that much better than a normal flue that is reduced.?

Many thanks.

It's also important to insulate the flexible flue correctly, otherwise (I'm told), dangerous fumes can back up and return into the room.

walsheliz

I wasn't planning on installing the flexible flue. My post was querying how to seal the reducer to the clay down pipes and if I install it that way is it a goodi job.

Robbie.G

walsheliz wrote: »

I wasn't planning on installing the flexible flue. My post was querying how to seal the reducer to the clay down pipes and if I install it that way is it a goodi job.

Using a clay adaptor is ok but the proper way is to fit a flexible flue liner.The stove will work more efficiently with a liner as with a adaptor your puting a small flue into a very large one and the flue gases will cool before they reach the top of the chimney causing cresotes and tar build up in the chimney this wont happen with a liner as its the same diameter as the stove flue.Also make sure you have a permanent vent in the room and your hearth has to project 225mm in front of your stove to meet building regs

Qualitymark

Here's the Chimney Sweeps' Association of Ireland page with some scary stuff on carbon monoxide poisoning http://csai.ie

(Apart from needing a proper steel flue *which must be insulated between it and the chimney with something like vermiculite*, you should have carbon monoxide alarms (regularly tested), ventilation in the room where the stove is, and you mustn't have a stove in a room where there's an extractor fan, for obvious reasons.)

I wouldn't myself have a stove without a well-insulated steel flue-liner, after living in a cottage with one vented into the chimney which gave off shocking fumes.

I see Dublin Fire Brigade now have a €500 call-out fee for chimney fires. Insanity! How many houses burn down because people try to save the fee and let a chimney fire turn into an inferno?

BhoscaCapall

We have this stove installed, with the pipe coming out the back rather than the top. The handle on the bottom left is obviously to shake the grate, but what is the top right one for? My first thought was a chimney dampener but it barely moves left-right and seemingly has no effect on the fire at all. It looks like there is no dampener which is annoying as it means the fire burns itself out really fast, and I think it might affect the heat output if it's all being sucked up the chimney?

Qualitymark

BhoscaCapall wrote: »

We have this stove installed, with the pipe coming out the back rather than the top. The handle on the bottom left is obviously to shake the grate, but what is the top right one for? My first thought was a chimney dampener but it barely moves left-right and seemingly has no effect on the fire at all. It looks like there is no dampener which is annoying as it means the fire burns itself out really fast, and I think it might affect the heat output if it's all being sucked up the chimney?

Does it pull in-out? It may be a damper?

cordni

Daz1973 wrote: »

Looks great cordni.I have the same fire place as you had.did fire place come out easy and did you retain your old hart and how much trouble was it to enlarge opening,once again looks great

Sorry Daz only seeing your post now. I didn't do the work myself, but the builder didn't report any issues. Unfortunately I couldn't keep the old hearth as it was just going to shatter with the knocking out of the fireplace. If I remember correctly I think it was also glued which wouldn't help matters. To cut down on cost, for my new hearth they build it up with bricks and I then used large tiles to tile it. Would have loved to get a new granite one but the stove and it's installation was costing me enough .