STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Devrobia

Thanks Brianne

You said that you need to leave the radiator on in the room that the stove is in...is it because the stove doesn't get hot enough to heat the room.

Sounds like the output to the rads and water is great

Thanks a million

Brianne

Devrobia wrote: »

Thanks Brianne

You said that you need to leave the radiator on in the room that the stove is in...is it because the stove doesn't get hot enough to heat the room.

Sounds like the output to the rads and water is great

Thanks a million

Yes great output to rads. Saying that if the fire in the stove is low then the rad would'nt be that warm and room is still nice and cosy. If you have a really good fire going it will throw out good heat. We also lined the chimney. We went to see this before we installed it to a guy who had way more rads than us and he was really pleased so going on his recommendation we went for it and we also used the same guy to install it. He was excellent and really knew his job. These are totally Irish made in Wexford.

Cathellen

Hi

Anyone out there got the Stanley Lismore stove. Would love to hear what people think. We have just installed one and feel we could/should be getting more out of it...heats the rads well but not throwing out a lot of heat to he room...we don't seem to have got the knack of pulling the heat from the rads and diverting it to the room....any advice would be aprepciated

Devrobia

Yea i suppose to heat the rads you would have to throw a bit of fuel into it. Good to know that there is good heat to the room also. Sounds really impressive and even better that they are an Irish company. Thanks a million, definitely going to look into these.

Blinderss

Hi all,
I'm looking for some advice on my newly installed stove as I seem to have a downdraft problem,once the fire gets going its ok there is a good draft but once it dies down again the problems returns.
Lastnite I turned the damper down when going to bed to have my carbon monoxide alarm wake me an hour later,so I want to get the problem resolved before
Lighting the stove again.
The stove is a Stanley Reginald with a flue length of 3750mm which 1500mm is single wall and the rest twin.
It's a newly built house with no vents as I plan to install a HRV system in the near future,when lighting the stove I keep a window slightly ajar to help create a draft as I dont have the external air supply connected yet.

Do I need additional height to the flue or will the external air supply keep a draft going up the flue.
I have tried to add pictures but can't get them working,think its because im on a mobile device will try on the laptop later.

Thanks in advance Darren

Robbie.G

Blinderss wrote: »

Hi all,
I'm looking for some advice on my newly installed stove as I seem to have a downdraft problem,once the fire gets going its ok there is a good draft but once it dies down again the problems returns.
Lastnite I turned the damper down when going to bed to have my carbon monoxide alarm wake me an hour later,so I want to get the problem resolved before
Lighting the stove again.
The stove is a Stanley Reginald with a flue length of 3750mm which 1500mm is single wall and the rest twin.
It's a newly built house with no vents as I plan to install a HRV system in the near future,when lighting the stove I keep a window slightly ajar to help create a draft as I dont have the external air supply connected yet.

Do I need additional height to the flue or will the external air supply keep a draft going up the flue.
I have tried to add pictures but can't get them working,think its because im on a mobile device will try on the laptop later.

Thanks in advance Darren

1-The flue should be a minimum height of 4.5mtrs.
2-Where does the flue terminate this has a massive effect on draw of chimney.
3-The stove needs air for combustion so a vent must be fitted ASAP.Your stove fitter should have done that he also should have addressed items 1 and 2 your installation doesn't comply with building regs or manufacturers instructions.
Don't use your stove until these items are addressed carbon monoxide detectors don't give false alarms and for a alarm to sound they measure the levels over a prolonged time as CO levels can spike for a minute or two and then settle down to normal levels

gomamochi1

Blinderss wrote: »

Hi all,
I'm looking for some advice on my newly installed stove as I seem to have a downdraft problem,once the fire gets going its ok there is a good draft but once it dies down again the problems returns.
Lastnite I turned the damper down when going to bed to have my carbon monoxide alarm wake me an hour later,so I want to get the problem resolved before
Lighting the stove again.
The stove is a Stanley Reginald with a flue length of 3750mm which 1500mm is single wall and the rest twin.
It's a newly built house with no vents as I plan to install a HRV system in the near future,when lighting the stove I keep a window slightly ajar to help create a draft as I dont have the external air supply connected yet.

Do I need additional height to the flue or will the external air supply keep a draft going up the flue.
I have tried to add pictures but can't get them working,think its because im on a mobile device will try on the laptop later.

Thanks in advance Darren

I concurr with the above post. You need to have a look at the hetac regs for the uk as a lot of Irish installers don't bother following them. Better to have a fixed open cent in the room with the stove. Good luck with sorting it out as its worth getting it right in the long run and much more enjoyable!

Blinderss

Robbie.G wrote: »

1-The flue should be a minimum height of 4.5mtrs.
2-Where does the flue terminate this has a massive effect on draw of chimney.
3-The stove needs air for combustion so a vent must be fitted ASAP.Your stove fitter should have done that he also should have addressed items 1 and 2 your installation doesn't comply with building regs or manufacturers instructions.
Don't use your stove until these items are addressed carbon monoxide detectors don't give false alarms and for a alarm to sound they measure the levels over a prolonged time as CO levels can spike for a minute or two and then settle down to normal levels

Thanks for your replies

I installed the stove myself so can't blame anyone.I could add another meter of flue no problem but I am worried about having over two meters of flue unsupported above the slates.
I would have the external air suppy connected but I am having trouble finding
75mm aluminium flexible pipe to suit the stoves vent size.

Blinderss

Forgot to mention ninety percent of the time
The wind comes from a southerly direction which is to my back as I took the photo.

Robbie.G

Blinderss wrote: »

Thanks for your replies

I installed the stove myself so can't blame anyone.I could add another meter of flue no problem but I am worried about having over two meters of flue unsupported above the slates.
I would have the external air suppy connected but I am having trouble finding
75mm aluminium flexible pipe to suit the stoves vent size.

The flue is to low it's it needs to be raised at least 1mtr that should help by right it should clear the ridge.The flexible duct is available from Stanley but anyway you still need to drill a 4 inch duct in external wall for primary air to stove.Dont use stove until it has an air supply either ducted or drilled in room

Blinderss

Thanks for your help Robbie,I priced the external air kit in my local Stanley agent and they are looking for €120 which is outrageous imo for some aluminium flexi pipe,cover and clips,and I don't think that included VAT.
Do you think the flue would need additional support when I add an extra metre?
I have it supported against the rafters in the attic.
I can't see how it could be supported externally anyway.

Robbie.G

It shouldn't be against any combustible material twin wall flue has a label on it.Most flue manufacturers state 60-80mm from combustibles.Take more pics of in tire flue and supports including rafter support also take pic of label on flue or box it came in and I will explain what distances are.Regarding bracketing different flue makers state different distances between supports I would need to know flue maker hope some of this helps also flue makers should have the Alu duct

Blinderss

Robbie.G wrote: »

It shouldn't be against any combustible material twin wall flue has a label on it.Most flue manufacturers state 60-80mm from combustibles.Take more pics of in tire flue and supports including rafter support also take pic of label on flue or box it came in and I will explain what distances are.Regarding bracketing different flue makers state different distances between supports I would need to know flue maker hope some of this helps also flue makers should have the Alu duct

It's a Hamco twin wall flue,I was reading the distances were 60/80mm somewhere alright.I could not get that clearance without cutting a ceiling joist out of the way which is a big no no with a truss roof.
I had the stove lighting all day Xmas eve and was in the attic in the evening time getting santas presents and the flue was Luke warm to touch,hardly a fire hazard ..
I'll get up a few more pics of the flue from the stove up later

Robbie.G

Just be very careful with the distances because it means the flue isn't fitted to building regs or manufacturers instructions so in the event of something going wrong with it you don't have a leg to stand on.The flue should have been marked out with the distances to combustibles taken into account and the stove fitted to that location not the other way around

Brianne

Brianne wrote: »

Devrobia wrote: »

Hi all...Does anybody know much about this stove and could they give me some info on it and is it any good. Thanks a million, it's a Yola 17kw Inset Boiler. Here's the link

http://yolastoves.wordpress.com/17kw-inset-boiler/[/QUOTE]

We have this stove installed with the past month and we're really happy with it. It has a fine large firebox and nice size window. We have a large double rad in the same room which we always need to leave on with it. Our room roughly 16 x 12 We have 5 other large single rads and a large double, these rads get really hot once a good fire is down and we have plenty hot water also. I took a long time to decide on a stove and I m really happy with this. Price 1,575 euro.

I 've just seen this stove on a website for sale today for 1100 euro. I could'nt believe it. What a massive price difference. It certainly pays to shop around. Its pretty annoying to think I could have saved so much on it.

tommyh1977

Hi all. just a quick question. I understand the pipework from stove has to constantly rise to create gravity flow. Would the following scenario be ok.

2.7 mtr from boiler to ceiling first floor, across the joists of first floor about 4 mtr, the rising again about .5 metre to coil in cylinder? Any help appreciated.

RandomPunter82

hi, im thinking of purchasing the stovax riva 40, the price i was quoted for the stove was €1550 which is a lot of money! is the riva 40 a safe bet? are there any other similar size cassette / inset stoves available? i was told that the plaster around the stove would end up cracking and i was advised to tile the surrounding wall. Thanks

ravendude

Hi there,
We're thinking about getting a Boru 600i installed in an existing fireplace. The existing surround will go, as it's made from wood, and stove may generate too much heat.

Does anyone have any experiences with this Stove, good/bad? Do they throw out a lot of heat in comparison to a stand alone stove, - we have a quite large area to heat.

Also, it's going into an existing fireplace, it all seems almost too straight forward, - it will apparently just require a flu kit connected to the chimney pot, and the existing fireplace opening will be widened slightly, and the stove raised several inches off the floor. He measured it all up etc and reckons its all good. Does this sound right? Is there anything wrt to the installation that i should be watching out for? House is approx 15 years old if that matters.
I would be installed by the stove vendor so I'd be a little concerned they might skimp on the installation somehow to get the sale, - I might be a bit over cautious in this regard though. The benefit I guess is at least we only deal with one party who takes responsibility, - no blaming the other guy.

Thanks for any info! We're a little freaked out as have read about a few horror stories with stoves now.

Casati

Looking for a 4/5kw room heater stove freestanding stove - needs to be wood burning only and not multi-fuel. My local stove selling tells me that wood burning stoves are all big money - so where as I can get a multi fuel stove that looks ok for 500 quid, I'm told that I need something like the Riva Vision- which is 1900 quid. Do I have any other options at reasonable money?

lostinashford

Casati wrote: »

Looking for a 4/5kw room heater stove freestanding stove - needs to be wood burning only and not multi-fuel. My local stove selling tells me that wood burning stoves are all big money - so where as I can get a multi fuel stove that looks ok for 500 quid, I'm told that I need something like the Riva Vision- which is 1900 quid. Do I have any other options at reasonable money?

Got a price on this Yola 6KW freestanding stove directly from Keith at Yola Stoves in Wexford yesterday, I think it looks great and good value at €695.

http://yolastoves.wordpress.com/yola-6kw/

emg74

We got a Stovax Stockton 3 for our sitting room a couple of years ago - no boiler freestanding stove, Very happy with the heat it produces. It has an output of 3.75kw so you might need to look at one of the bigger stoves in the range (http://www.stovax.com/stoves/traditionalstoves/wood__multi_fuel_stoves/stockton_stoves.aspx)

It is multifuel but we nearly always just burn logs in it but sometimes use smokeless coal too. Is there a specific reason why you are looking for wood only ? If you got a multifuel, you would have more options open to you regarding the type of fuel you can use.

It was around €500 at the time

Casati

lostinashford wrote: »

Got a price on this Yola 6KW freestanding stove directly from Keith at Yola Stoves in Wexford yesterday, I think it looks great and good value at €695.

http://yolastoves.wordpress.com/yola-6kw/

Thanks, but I see that one has a grate- so am I right in thinking its multi-fuel? I need a wood only stove for BER

Casati

emg74 wrote: »

We got a Stovax Stockton 3 for our sitting room a couple of years ago - no boiler freestanding stove, Very happy with the heat it produces. It has an output of 3.75kw so you might need to look at one of the bigger stoves in the range (http://www.stovax.com/stoves/traditionalstoves/wood__multi_fuel_stoves/stockton_stoves.aspx)

It is multifuel but we nearly always just burn logs in it but sometimes use smokeless coal too. Is there a specific reason why you are looking for wood only ? If you got a multifuel, you would have more options open to you regarding the type of fuel you can use.

It was around €500 at the time

My BER man has told me that the multi fuel won't help my rating, where as a wood only will as its deemed a renewable energy source. I will check out if I can get that Stovax in wood burning only format.

emg74

that probably makes sense, suppose it depends how important the BER rating is to you - Wonder how much of a difference it makes in the rating?

Casati

emg74 wrote: »

that probably makes sense, suppose it depends how important the BER rating is to you - Wonder how much of a difference it makes in the rating?

I'm not sure exactly what difference it makes but my BER accessor has calculated a rating which will only be achieved with a secondary renewable heating source- building regs require a certain minimum rating so it has to be wood only, multi-fuel won't count as renewable energy source

munsterkerryfan

Hi,

I am currently trying to decide between a Stanley Oisin and a Stovax Stockton 6. Has anybody experience of either/both and could recommend one above the other?

It is just going to be used to heat a sitting room so I don't need anything very big. I have been given a price of €900 to supply and fit the Stovax. I have a price of €499 for the Oisin but that does not include fitting/flue etc.

Any insights would be appreciated.

ovalfan1

high am looking for advice on which kind of stove to go for, i would like a stove which mainly heats the radiators ,the room were the stove is going is 15'*13' , its a 2 storey house 1750 sq feet and is built within the last 6 years and is generally easily heated, their is 12 radiators 6 with thermostat controls, ill be using mainly coal and slack,
their all 500mm in height
1200mm double in the room were the stove will go.
1400mm double
600mm double
3 * 500mm singles
1200mm single
3 * 1300mm doubles
900mm double
in terms of brand advice also needed , dont mind paying a bit extra for better brand.
would really apprciate advise .

deandean

I am hoping stove guy and his buddies are back soon to help!

SO, my query is:
I am looking at replacing an open fire with an inset stove.

And I am wondering how the 3kW or 4kW comes out of an inset stove seeing as it is about 75% efficient compared to an open fire which is rated as 20% efficient?
Is it all radiant heat heat from the front of the stove getting hot, and/or is there convection heating as well from airflow through the consumer side of the stove?
I've seen U.S. stoves with an electric fan for blowing air through the stove - which seems like a billiant idea - but no such setup on this side of the pond.

Dean

Seweryn

deandean wrote: »

I've seen U.S. stoves with an electric fan for blowing air through the stove - which seems like a billiant idea - but no such setup on this side of the pond.

http://www.ecofan.ie/

Robbie.G

deandean wrote: »

I am hoping stove guy and his buddies are back soon to help!

SO, my query is:
I am looking at replacing an open fire with an inset stove.

And I am wondering how the 3kW or 4kW comes out of an inset stove seeing as it is about 75% efficient compared to an open fire which is rated as 20% efficient?
Is it all radiant heat heat from the front of the stove getting hot, and/or is there convection heating as well from airflow through the consumer side of the stove?
I've seen U.S. stoves with an electric fan for blowing air through the stove - which seems like a billiant idea - but no such setup on this side of the pond.

Dean

What makes a stove efficient is the baffle arangement this slows down the flue gases and lets the heat out.A open fire is about 10 kw but as there is no baffles 75-80% of the heat goes straight up the chimney.
The majority of inset stoves are radiant heaters but convection are available in theory the convection give better heat dispersal. Fan assisted aren't that common here.I have seen fan assisted but they are connected to ducts that are run through the house and the warm air is dispersed through out the house.They are available but are expensive to retro fit.
I hope this might answer one or two of your questions