STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

maradonas

Any idea when the stove phenomenon will be over

samuelj

can anyone recommend a budget insert solid fuel stove? doing up sitting room and looking to put in an insert stove (dont need it connected to heating as room is tidy insulated and warm).

cheers

babystrawberry

Hi
I recently went looking for quotes on installing stove in the house. I have gas central heating though and the guy I rang said that it is not advised to have a stove in a house with gas, think it was for safety issues??

Is this true or am i being taken for a fool?!

chelbi

babystrawberry wrote: »

Hi
I recently went looking for quotes on installing stove in the house. I have gas central heating though and the guy I rang said that it is not advised to have a stove in a house with gas, think it was for safety issues??

Is this true or am i being taken for a fool?!

My neighbor had the stove installed and still has his gas connected not sure if it is the safest thing to be done but it is doable I had the solid fuel stove installed in June but I had my gas disconnected and boiler and meter taken out, 1. because the gas company intended to keep charging me a daily rate just for having the meter there and 2. because I feel safer having it disconnected while I have the solid fuel.

Have to say it was the best decision I ever made I have heat in all my rooms now when the fire is lit for a fraction of the cost!

Markcheese

babystrawberry wrote: »

Hi
I recently went looking for quotes on installing stove in the house. I have gas central heating though and the guy I rang said that it is not advised to have a stove in a house with gas, think it was for safety issues??

Is this true or am i being taken for a fool?!

Ok no expert but why would a solid fuel stove and gas central heating be mutually exclusive...maybe linking a back boiler in could be more difficult ( pressurised system ??) but hey get a second or third opinion...

mickydcork

Hi

Would anyone know where I could get Vermiculite (mycafil), fire cement and fire proof silicone somewhere in south dublin?

Also do you have to have a register plate where your flue pipe enters an existing clay flue or could you just secure it with fire cement and then backfill with vermiculite?

Cheers
Mick

The Stove Man

babystrawberry wrote: »

Hi
I recently went looking for quotes on installing stove in the house. I have gas central heating though and the guy I rang said that it is not advised to have a stove in a house with gas, think it was for safety issues??

Is this true or am i being taken for a fool?!

No reason not to install a solid fuel stove in a house with gas heating, by that reasoning you would not be allowed to light a candle either for safety reasons

However it is probably cheaper and easier to run your central heating on gas than with a solid fuel stove, maybe that is what was meant.

mark17j

babystrawberry wrote: »

Hi
I recently went looking for quotes on installing stove in the house. I have gas central heating though and the guy I rang said that it is not advised to have a stove in a house with gas, think it was for safety issues??

Is this true or am i being taken for a fool?!

my stove was installed 5 + years ago and I also have gas central heating - never had any issues. I don't have the stove connected to the water or rads though which i'd like to change in the future.

The Stove Man

GaryCocs wrote: »

Thanks for the update, might look at changing it to a 45 coming out the top instead so, hopefully that'll improve it enough to get the draw right. There'll still be a bend but out the top rather than at the back. Does anyone have any experience with this?

Looking at it now I dont know how I'd clean the bloody chimney the way it's set up now anyway??

Bringing the flue out the top will help the chimney draught greatly and make it much easier to clean the chimney

Going at 45 directly from the back would also help as the maximum horizontal length of the pipe out the back should be 150mm/6inches

The Stove Man

SmithySeller wrote: »

Folks, small bit of advice. Im trying to size a stove. I will have at least 3metres of uninsulated flu pipe in the room rising from the stove before it hits the insulated part. Should I bear this mind when sizing the output of a stove? How much heat would 3 metres give out approx?

one and half lengths of uninsulated pipe of the top of the stove is the maximum permitted by nearly all manufacturers, reason is that these pipes allow the flue gases to cool too much and therefore reduce the draught in the chimney.

You will have to change to twin wall insulated for the rest of the height

The Stove Man

Links234 wrote: »

so, can anyone tell me if the Henley stoves are good?

Henley stoves are fine similar build quality and design to stanley but a bit cheaper.
I have fitted many and not had an issue with the build or design

The Stove Man

lucillel wrote: »

Hi, been looking for some reviews on this stove, how are u finding it now?? the fire basket looks small do u have to refuel alot ?? is it worth the buy. i have a small sitting room and think this would be idea, just worried re size of fire box. and lack of reviews.. thanks..

Dimplex stoves are well built and this stove is identical to the firewarm insert, the green insert and the tr4 insert, in fact i suspect they are all the same stove with different bits and door designs, so check out reviews on the others as well

The fire box is tiny and takes a while to get used to building tiny fires, forget about logs 50% will not fit in. Coal fire will last an hour or two between refueling

Heat output is ok but i would say 4.3kw is optimistic more like 3kw but ok for small well insulated room

The Stove Man

amytomjerry wrote: »

What do you think of this....my cottage(one storey) is 80 years old, chimney isn't lined of course...so I am planning in putting in a Oisin stove. The chimney has to be lined and insulated with vermiculite....fireplace redone with brick, brick work supplied and done, flue etc supplied and fitted, slate fitted....1700euro...

Can someone explain to me the purpose of the lining & vermiculite.....is it really necessary if a flue is used......thanks!

The lining is needed as the stove will operate best with a five inch flue\liner from stove to chimney, this is also recommended by stanley.
The vermiculite around the liner keeps the flue gases\smoke inside the chimney warm and hence rising quickly giving better up draught, it also keeps the liner away from the sides of the existing brick chimney which will protect the brickwork from the heat of the liner

Guideline price is €50 per meter for good liner and €30 per 100 litre bag of vermiculite

Installation of stove and liner should be no more than €300 labour, bricks are no more than a euro each to supply,you should get an itemised quote explaining the cost of each item and then decide if the labour cost is too high or not

Cathellen

We're knocking down a wall between a kitchen and dining room and intend to put in a boiler stove to heat 6 to 8 rads. We have been advised that we need a 12Kw stove. I have been looking round and there are so many stoves available that I am totally confused. Most of the stoves that meet the criteria seem to be about €850 and then there are others which are twice the price - Stovax, Yeoman and Straford Eco stove - are they really that much better and how are they better?
All the stoves we looked at seem to have efficiencies between 77% and 85%....not necessarily related to price.
Would appreciate any advice.

Seweryn

Hi Guys,

I have been thinking about the idea of a Stove for a long time, but need do the first step finally. Below are photos of my existing fireplace. I would like to remove the existing insert to see how much room there is for a freestanding stove. Can you please guide me how to simply remove the timber frame and then the insert to make as little mess as possible.

brop

Hi just looking for some advice, decided to get a stanley oisin stove after alot of investigation, got our fireplace removed and the opening made wider and taller, replastered and slate hearth put in. Wanted to purchase the stove today and the flue coming out the top outlet and connecting to existing flue which would leave the stove half in the fireplace opening half out on the hearth. However the man in the shop told me i would need 200mm clearance all around the stove so i would have to use a back connection instead of the direct one from the top and my stove would have to sit out almost proud. Very disappointed to hear this as i have the building work completed on the opening and the hearth cut quite narrow(not much room left for a proud oisin) I was searching this thread and there seems to have been a previous post stating that waterford stanley say 100mm is required all around as clearance, can anyone tell me if this is the case because if so i can go ahead as planned as the oisin is 380 wide and my opening is 590 wide. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as i dont know who to listen to.

Robbie.G

brop wrote: »

Hi just looking for some advice, decided to get a stanley oisin stove after alot of investigation, got our fireplace removed and the opening made wider and taller, replastered and slate hearth put in. Wanted to purchase the stove today and the flue coming out the top outlet and connecting to existing flue which would leave the stove half in the fireplace opening half out on the hearth. However the man in the shop told me i would need 200mm clearance all around the stove so i would have to use a back connection instead of the direct one from the top and my stove would have to sit out almost proud. Very disappointed to hear this as i have the building work completed on the opening and the hearth cut quite narrow(not much room left for a proud oisin) I was searching this thread and there seems to have been a previous post stating that waterford stanley say 100mm is required all around as clearance, can anyone tell me if this is the case because if so i can go ahead as planned as the oisin is 380 wide and my opening is 590 wide. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as i dont know who to listen to.

Taken from Stanley Oisin manual

CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLES
Side wall to stove
Back wall to stove non-boiler model Back wall to stove boiler model Ceiling to horizontal connector Corner
Mantle clearance
Side trim, which extends less than 2” from the face of the fireplace
20” 510mm 15” 380mm 12” 305mm 18” 460mm 13” 330mm 25” 635mm
14” 355mm
It is recommended that this appliance is sited next to and on a non-combustible surface. A minimum all round clearance of 100 mm will allow air circulation and not impede the performance of the stove.

robertxxx

Seweryn wrote: »

Hi Guys,

I have been thinking about the idea of a Stove for a long time, but need do the first step finally. Below are photos of my existing fireplace. I would like to remove the existing insert to see how much room there is for a freestanding stove. Can you please guide me how to simply remove the timber frame and then the insert to make as little mess as possible.

The frame is fixed in with brackets behind the plasterboard, so you would have to cut it first, id say about a foot down from the top.

Seweryn

robertxxx wrote: »

The frame is fixed in with brackets behind the plasterboard, so you would have to cut it first, id say about a foot down from the top.

Thank you Robert,

The wall is not plasterboard, just blocks (traditional older build). I understand the timber frame is fixed on the sides with some brackets?

biffo19

Hi guys,

We recently moved into a house which had a stove installed in the kitchen area which also has a sunroom attached. When we have the stove lighting it just about warms some of the rads but only to the point of taking the cold off them and they are not giving out any heat as such. We also find that we have to constantly top up the stove and can see it being quite expensive to run. I think the make of the stove is a waterford stanley erin and has a thermostat that goes from 0 to 4 at the side. The stat in the hotpress is set at 60deg so I think thats right. Overhead the stove where the pipe goes doesnt look finished to me and I thnk we could be loosing heat that way. I've attached some pics to see what I mean. What setting should I have the stat at the side of the stove to heat the rads? Should I get someone to look at the pump( maybe its too small for the amount of rads it has to heat which is about 12 ). So many questions!!

Any help would be appreciated.

SmithySeller

The Stove Man wrote: »

one and half lengths of uninsulated pipe of the top of the stove is the maximum permitted by nearly all manufacturers, reason is that these pipes allow the flue gases to cool too much and therefore reduce the draught in the chimney.

You will have to change to twin wall insulated for the rest of the height

Wow, another point completely ignored by the three reputable dealers I have gone and spoke to. I really am losing faith here.
I asked about external air supply. All three said I dont need it.
I asked about flue length with regard to building regs. All three were willing to put in a flue over 1m shorter than buliding regs requirement.
One guy even told me 7Kw is perfect without asking me the room size :mad:

GhanGee

looking to buy a 5 inch pellet stove flue pipe, my idea would be
1x 1000 mm
1x 500 mm
1x 90 degree elbow

diameter: 5 inch (cca 12cm)
single-walled stainless steel

Can anyone advise on where to buy? Price matters, please comment. Thanks.

The Stove Man

robertxxx wrote: »

The frame is fixed in with brackets behind the plasterboard, so you would have to cut it first, id say about a foot down from the top.

If your house is built after approx. 1970 then there will be a flue gather\lintel right behind the metal insert and a concrete ope or approx 600mm wide which is too narrow for a stove

This gather holds up the clay liners and takes the weight of the chimney above and is therefore costly to remove, you should be able to feel\see the edge right above the metal opening of the metal insert.

Most common option in this type of fireplace is to place stove in front of the current insert and extend the hearth out to suit.Approx €200 for hearth extension piece. Or get a new fireplace insert which will be square and flat and fit an insert stove instead. All good stove shops have these inserts and Boru stoves make them to suit their inset stoves approx €200 for new fireplace insert

Seweryn

The Stove Man wrote: »

If your house is built after approx. 1970 then there will be a flue gather\lintel right behind the metal insert and a concrete ope or approx 600mm wide which is too narrow for a stove

This gather holds up the clay liners and takes the weight of the chimney above and is therefore costly to remove, you should be able to feel\see the edge right above the metal opening of the metal insert.

Most common option in this type of fireplace is to place stove in front of the current insert and extend the hearth out to suit.Approx €200 for hearth extension piece. Or get a new fireplace insert which will be square and flat and fit an insert stove instead. All good stove shops have these inserts and Boru stoves make them to suit their inset stoves approx €200 for new fireplace insert

Thank you Stve Man.

I made a deal this evening for a new stove, but it looks like it is going to be a tricky job to fit it. I am going to get this stove:



The house was built in mid 1970's, so I believe the chimney is built the way you described it.
Personally, I would like to make the ope larger and fit the stove into it. How big of a job would it be and who could get this done properly?

lucozader

Does anybody have any opinions and advice on this stove.

I think it might do the job for a small living room is a small house.

The house has oil central heating and this will supplement it.

Thank you.

sorry about posting a stand alone thread

i was in a rush

thanks

biffo19

Anyone??

eamonndo

Hi Stove Fan.

I'll be honest I have spent quite a bit of time reading through this thread and am still a little confused.

I'm looking at installing a multi fuel boiler stove to supplement my oil fired central heating. My aim would be to fire up the oil for an hour in the morning and then light the stove during the day and this would heat the house for the remainder of the day. The house is detached and circa 2100sq feet and moderatley insulated built in 2002. I do plan to replace the front door and add additional insulation in the attic. I have 7 rooms in the house and the sizes are as follows in meteres...

5 x 3.3
4 x 4
4 x 4
4 x 4.5
4 x 4.5
4 x 4.5
8 x 4

There are 2 additional bathrooms and one en-suite.

I have 14 radiators mostly double. Most are aprrox 89cm x 50cm although there are a couple bigger and smaller depending on the room size.

I have used the following to work out the amount of heat required -

http://www.waterfordstanley.com/stanley-stoves/room-heat-calculator.aspx

Now adding up all the rooms I get 26KW. I undertsand that all that is not necessary as some rooms are not used that much and some are bedrooms etc...

I have an open fireplace that we rarely use and it only heats one room (4m x 4m). I currently dont have a back boiler so would need to get plumber in to take a look at what is needed and cost it. My prefernce would be for a high effeciency boiler to focus on heating the water/rads. All rads have termostats fitted.

Now I'm looking for some recommendations on Boiler make/size. I understand you cannot cost this but I'm budgeting for 4K for the bolier, the plumbing work and additional attic insulation. The front door will be extra of course. Currently we spend between 2-2.5K on oil per year. My hope would be to cut this in half and the payback will be in 3-4 years.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Eamonndo

banie01

Looking at a TR4 Insert Stove, Any other suggestions?
Hiya folks!
I'm currently trying to source an insert stove solely for the purpose of heating my sitting room.
After some google searching and some advice from pro's I decided on a Tripp/Heat Design TR4 stove along with the arched sectional insert to suit my current fireplace.

Now here's where the fun starts.
Tripp/Heat Design don't do direct sales, so after contacting their listed suppliers in my area I am getting big price variance for supply only!
Lowest price quoted is €575 complete against a top price of €750!

I've decided on this particular stove because its output gives me a nice excess margin for the room I'll be putting it in and its look combined with the adapter plate will round off my fireplace nicely....
But given the price variance I'm running into, I'm hoping someone here can suggest similar performing stoves that are available with adapter plates before I decide to drop the cash?
Thanks in advance

Officer Giggles

Hi all,

I have an open fire in the sitting room which I want to replace with a non boiler stove. The room is approx. 6m x 4m. As far as I can make out that means I require a stove with a room output of 4kw. The Waterford Stanley Oisin seems to fit the bill. Can anyone recommend any other good quality alternatives for me to consider.

Cheers

Joe10000

Officer Giggles wrote: »

Hi all,

I have an open fire in the sitting room which I want to replace with a non boiler stove. The room is approx. 6m x 4m. As far as I can make out that means I require a stove with a room output of 4kw. The Waterford Stanley Oisin seems to fit the bill. Can anyone recommend any other good quality alternatives for me to consider.

Cheers

I am trying to do the exact same thing in a similar sized room. My question is on the output, 4kw is also what i've been told but does this mean a roaring fire in this size stove or would a smaller fire in a 7kw do the same job ? In other words can i regulate the output by the size of the fire rather than the advertised output of the stove ?

I wouldn't mind having the additional capacity in case in was undersized in terms of kw output, thanks.