STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

cavan4sam

have ordered the blacksmith forge so i'll update on its performance soon , now i'm looking for a 36x36 heart stone curved at the front , preferably in black slate

The Bull

Was lookin at this stove online and wondered if anyone on here has bought one of these. This one I am interested in is offered at 675 euro with 25 euro for delivery. I wonder what they are like if anyone has any feedback on one like the 16kw listed below?

http://www.stovedeals.ie/16kwboiler-single.html

Also came across this blog about them online

http://wood-pellet-ireland.blogspot.ie/2012/03/bargain-price-multi-fuel-stoves.html

minirolo

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi, if you can afford the extra for the woodwarm fireview then do that as it has good power to the water and low 3.7kw to room.

Your next best option is the Aarrow EB16HE stove as like you say 2.5-8kw to room. Your room probably requires around 5kw now as I only quoted it at 2.4m ceiling height. You have the double doors too the main rooms so leaving them open should let the heat escape to other areas:)

I personally would't go with the stanley reginald as to be honest there is no advantage in boiler performance, may as well have a higher rated boiler the EB16. the stanley reginald is virtually the same as the Aarrow EB12HE stove. If going lower output buy the EB12 although would heat less rads than the EB16.

None of them will heat all the rads but the higher the boiler output the more rads they will heat. You may decide to go for a lower heat output like the EB12HE and just heat about 5 double rads. If more output needed the EB16.

Stove Fan:)

STOVE FAN thanks for all your help! Just to let you know we ordered a woodwarm fireview 16kw !! Can't wait to use it!

chughes

I have an open fireplace and I'm thinking of having a stove installed. I've more or less decided on a Stanley stove but my final decision is to get an insert stove or a standard type stove.

The insert will fit my fireplace (18 inches) and it looks like a neat job with nothing sticking out into the room. The standard type stove sticks out a bit but I wonder does this increase the amount of heat radiated into the room.

Basically, I'd love to hear of people's experiences of both types to see which would be the better one to go for.

bigburd

Can someone advise me if I want to install an insert stove do I need a fireback in the fireplace?

My current fireplace does not have a fireback, there are just cement blocks from the house wall behind the fireplace. The fireplace was for a gas fire.

Thanks

tinofapples

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi, yes it is quite a big job as the boiler stove can't heat the underfloor heating direct. You would need to use a thermal store/buffer tank. This would be sized for the system and could range from anywhere 500-1500+ litres. Ideally if your oil boiler all leads to the hotpress the thermal store would replace the existing hot water cylinder in the hotpress.
This is of course the floor could take the additional weight if upstairs.
The thermal store would then feed the underfloor circuits and if you have any rads/towel rails these would be fed from the hotter water from the top.

It really depends how the plumbing routes and how the underfloor manifolds are run/plumbed, but if they all lead from the hotpress then much simpler.

The only way to find out if it's feasable is to get several quotes.
If you want the best stove then it's clearview with woodwarm second. Just make sure the plumber sizes the boilers room heat properly as you don't want to roast:eek:
You may after receiving the quotes go for a non boiler stove:eek:

Stove Fan:)

We have underfloor heating in kitchen/dining/sunroom and hallway and we think it's rubbish, only certain spots seems to be heating properly. The plumber is a waster and we are only a matter of time away from kncoking it off and fitting a room heating stove somewhere in the area. Ideally I'd like to fit a stove with a back boiler but I can imagine the costs would be HIGH. We are heating the house with wood pellets boiler atm and may decide on a wood pellet stove as well alothough they are expensive.

We have a Stanley Oisin bought to fit into our fireplace in the next few days/weeks.

Stove Fan

minirolo wrote: »

STOVE FAN thanks for all your help! Just to let you know we ordered a woodwarm fireview 16kw !! Can't wait to use it!

Hi, glad I could help:D Woodwarm are a really nice quality stove, I think you will love it:D

Let us all have a photo when installed:)

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

chughes wrote: »

I have an open fireplace and I'm thinking of having a stove installed. I've more or less decided on a Stanley stove but my final decision is to get an insert stove or a standard type stove.

The insert will fit my fireplace (18 inches) and it looks like a neat job with nothing sticking out into the room. The standard type stove sticks out a bit but I wonder does this increase the amount of heat radiated into the room.

Basically, I'd love to hear of people's experiences of both types to see which would be the better one to go for.

The inset stove is the best for installation simplicity unless your existing hearth that the new freestanding stove will sit on is very deep.

If you have a freestanding stove the hearth has to project 12 inches in front of the stove for building regs/manufacturers instructions.
Depending on your room depth this could look out of proportion.
The other thing to remember is you have to add the depth between the wall to the stove. This will be mentioned in the installation manual.
Stoves cant be placed straight against a wall, it must have the correct distance from the wall.
Also if your fire surround is wooden then any stove must be the specified clearance to combustibles. Stanley installation instructions are online, so could view before buying if a self install.

So long as it's well installed and of good manufacture they should both work equally well. If you mentioned the inset model someone might have that model:) It would be great to see one lit.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

bigburd wrote: »

Can someone advise me if I want to install an insert stove do I need a fireback in the fireplace?

My current fireplace does not have a fireback, there are just cement blocks from the house wall behind the fireplace. The fireplace was for a gas fire.

Thanks

Hi,

Some insert stoves have to have the fireback removed and some can be installed with the fireback in place. Not sure if you haven't a fireback but if you must replace it before installing the stove.
I would advice reading the installation manual online if a well known make and If they don't specify you could email them.
Check that the chimney is a class 1 ie suitable for solid fuel and not just gas. If it's all masonry it's all good. A survey/quote by a stove installer would verify.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

tinofapples wrote: »

We have underfloor heating in kitchen/dining/sunroom and hallway and we think it's rubbish, only certain spots seems to be heating properly. The plumber is a waster and we are only a matter of time away from kncoking it off and fitting a room heating stove somewhere in the area. Ideally I'd like to fit a stove with a back boiler but I can imagine the costs would be HIGH. We are heating the house with wood pellets boiler atm and may decide on a wood pellet stove as well alothough they are expensive.

We have a Stanley Oisin bought to fit into our fireplace in the next few days/weeks.

Sorry to hear of your heating dissapointment:( I have no idea how much it could cost but it sounds as if you may be best to install new rads downstairs in some rooms.
If after getting quotes to sort out the heating installation and installing a boiler stove you may find that a non boiler stove is your cheapest option.
Good luck with it,

Stove Fan:)

Daisy M

Hi stove fan just after a little info if you would be able to oblige. We have an open fire in living room which has a back boiler. From what I understand if we were to install a stove we would have to rip out existing backboiler, would it be a good alternative to not get a stove and install fire doors on the open fire?

Stove Fan

Daisy M wrote: »

Hi stove fan just after a little info if you would be able to oblige. We have an open fire in living room which has a back boiler. From what I understand if we were to install a stove we would have to rip out existing backboiler, would it be a good alternative to not get a stove and install fire doors on the open fire?

Hi,

Yes you would need to remove the backboiler and buy a boiler stove to heat the rads/water.
If your not going to use the backboiler it should be removed anyway for safety.

If money is tight installing a door front would increase the efficiency to the boiler. There has been a few people discussing them on this forum and people seem to give them the ok as more controllable and give better heat to the boiler. Although may still let quite a bit of heat out the chimney.

Saying that though the boiler stove or inset boiler stove would be better efficiency as designed at the outset as a heating stove.

Stove Fan:)

chughes

Stove Fan wrote: »

The inset stove is the best for installation simplicity unless your existing hearth that the new freestanding stove will sit on is very deep.

If you have a freestanding stove the hearth has to project 12 inches in front of the stove for building regs/manufacturers instructions.
Depending on your room depth this could look out of proportion.
The other thing to remember is you have to add the depth between the wall to the stove. This will be mentioned in the installation manual.
Stoves cant be placed straight against a wall, it must have the correct distance from the wall.
Also if your fire surround is wooden then any stove must be the specified clearance to combustibles. Stanley installation instructions are online, so could view before buying if a self install.

So long as it's well installed and of good manufacture they should both work equally well. If you mentioned the inset model someone might have that model:) It would be great to see one lit.

Stove Fan:)

Thanks for that Stove fan. I sort of fancied the standard type stove but the wife prefers the insert type so it looks like we'll go with the insert. There is no wood in the fire surround so there should be no issues regarding installation.

We are getting a solar panel system installed as well and I have asked them to install a triple coil boiler to cater for the insert boiler as well as the solar panels and gas boiler. Are there any issues that might cause me problems with this setup?

Daisy M

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi,

Yes you would need to remove the backboiler and buy a boiler stove to heat the rads/water.
If your not going to use the backboiler it should be removed anyway for safety.

If money is tight installing a door front would increase the efficiency to the boiler. There has been a few people discussing them on this forum and people seem to give them the ok as more controllable and give better heat to the boiler. Although may still let quite a bit of heat out the chimney.

Saying that though the boiler stove or inset boiler stove would be better efficiency as designed at the outset as a heating stove.

Stove Fan:)

Thank you, I will have a look through the thread for that. In fairness we seem to be lucky with our back boiler as it does work quiet well so maybe for now a door on the fire would be a good option. Thanks again:)

eamonndo

FAO Stove Fan.

This has probably been asked before so apologies up front.

I live in a 2100 sq ft two storey house heated by oil fired central heating built circa 2002. We have one fire place used during the winter to heat main living room. We also have a fire place shutter to close off fire during summer/when fire is not lit. It has no back bolier so only heats one room. We have 12 rads and immersion tank is upstairs.

I'm loooking at the possibility of integrating a boiler stove (preference multi-fuel) with our existing oil fired boiler/heating system. This stove would sit in the fireplace and heat all/most of the 12 rads when the stove is lit. We only light the fire from say 4-5pm so would need something to heat the rads/rooms within 1-2 hours of fire being lit.

I'm not sure how difficult/costly it would be to integrate the boliler stove into the existing system or if what I'm looking to do is possible.

Can you provide me some suggestions and approximate costs for stove + plumbing work for this and any other tips please.

Many thanks in advance

Brianne

Daisy we thought of going that route also as our very old back boiler is very efficient. We did see one of these in operation in a house and they were very pleased with it altogether. I just wonder maybe Stovefan can add anything to this but is there a danger to the flue as you cannot use liner with these doors as theres nothing to attach liner too. Don't know if I explained that right. We're thinking about a boiler inset stove all the year but even in stove shops you get varying advice about these stoves, some will tell you that they will not throw heat into the room. I've been told that lately again so I'm waiting to see if I can find somebody has any of these insets in operation that I can go and see it lighting.

Stove Fan

chughes wrote: »

Thanks for that Stove fan. I sort of fancied the standard type stove but the wife prefers the insert type so it looks like we'll go with the insert. There is no wood in the fire surround so there should be no issues regarding installation.

We are getting a solar panel system installed as well and I have asked them to install a triple coil boiler to cater for the insert boiler as well as the solar panels and gas boiler. Are there any issues that might cause me problems with this setup?

Using a 3 coil cylinder is an option although the heat would be lost through inadequate insulation on the cylinder.

The better but more expensive option would be a highly insulated thermal store/ buffer tank. These are super insulated and loose very little heat. They work well with boiler stoves too.

Get some quotes on both setups and discuss with your plumber to see whats possible in your property:)

Out of the two the thermal store would work best.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

eamonndo wrote: »

FAO Stove Fan.

This has probably been asked before so apologies up front.

I live in a 2100 sq ft two storey house heated by oil fired central heating built circa 2002. We have one fire place used during the winter to heat main living room. We also have a fire place shutter to close off fire during summer/when fire is not lit. It has no back bolier so only heats one room. We have 12 rads and immersion tank is upstairs.

I'm loooking at the possibility of integrating a boiler stove (preference multi-fuel) with our existing oil fired boiler/heating system. This stove would sit in the fireplace and heat all/most of the 12 rads when the stove is lit. We only light the fire from say 4-5pm so would need something to heat the rads/rooms within 1-2 hours of fire being lit.

I'm not sure how difficult/costly it would be to integrate the boliler stove into the existing system or if what I'm looking to do is possible.

Can you provide me some suggestions and approximate costs for stove + plumbing work for this and any other tips please.

Many thanks in advance

Hi, the first thing that needs to be established is if your heating system is open vented or sealed/closed system. The majority of solid fuel boiler stoves need an open vented system. Sealed/closed system is possible but very few stoves with this are made and quite expensive.

You would need to change the hot water cylinder to a twincoil cylinder. One coil for existing boiler other for new boiler stove. If solar as well a 3 coil cylinder or thermal store/buffer tank.

Your cylinder needs to ideally/ best practice to be installed no more than 4 metres from the stove and higher than the stove, ie upstairs or in loft if a bungalow. Yours is upstairs so thats good but depends on if the cylinder can be plumbed to work on gravity circulation.

Provision in the system should ensure a suitably sized gravity radiator is installed.

I have no idea on cost but the cylinders are about 200euro but it really depends on how complex the installation is and what plumbing is involved.

I can only really advice to get quotes but as a total guess budget anything from at least 2,500euro upwards for a basic stove and a very simple straightforward installation. It really depends on so many factors, lining chimney/ fireplace alterations, plumbing in complexity etc.

Have a look at the Aarrow ecoboiler range if wanting a reasonable stove at a reasonable price. But please get plumber to size the boiler and room heat required.

Stove Fan:)

Daisy M

Brianne wrote: »

Daisy we thought of going that route also as our very old back boiler is very efficient. We did see one of these in operation in a house and they were very pleased with it altogether. I just wonder maybe Stovefan can add anything to this but is there a danger to the flue as you cannot use liner with these doors as theres nothing to attach liner too. Don't know if I explained that right. We're thinking about a boiler inset stove all the year but even in stove shops you get varying advice about these stoves, some will tell you that they will not throw heat into the room. I've been told that lately again so I'm waiting to see if I can find somebody has any of these insets in operation that I can go and see it lighting.

Hi Brianne, I amstarting to think we should leave it and start saving for a proper stove. I like the look of inset stoves but I also like what fox shooter post 1125 has done with his fireplace. This is a stupid question I know but if you get an inset stove do you still need to remove the back boiler?

Brianne

Yes Daisy the back boiler must go. Yes that stove you mentioned looks very well and sits in there nicely.

Hootanany

Hi
Sorry for butting in I am now looking for a 8 to 12 kw non boiler stove.
Any recommendations would be appreciated, are Firewarm any good cost is an issue.

Many thanks in advance.

stephen_k

Stove Fan wrote: »

If you have a freestanding stove the hearth has to project 12 inches in front of the stove for building regs/manufacturers instructions.
Stove Fan:)

Hi Stove Fan,

Just wanted to clarify as it may affect their decision but by building regs and Hetas recommendations your hearth has to only be in excess of 225mm (9") from the front of the stove (if it's a closed appliance)...

Rob_talisman

Well ive been able to lit my fire a couple of times now

Ill post some photos later.

Only thing im finding is that after a while im getting a haze in the room, doesnt smell smokey, hasnt set off the carbon monoxide detector.

Is this normal for a "new" fire ie is it the paint from the fire itself burning off.?

Stove Fan

stephen_k wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,

Just wanted to clarify as it may affect their decision but by building regs and Hetas recommendations your hearth has to only be in excess of 225mm (9") from the front of the stove (if it's a closed appliance)...

Hi, in some stove manufacturers instructions they say a 225mm hearth infront is ok but in other manufacturers they state that 300mm is the required distance.

It really depends on the manufacturer but myself I would recommend to go for 12 inches infront.


See here. http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove-hearth-size.html

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan

Rob_talisman wrote: »

Well ive been able to lit my fire a couple of times now

Ill post some photos later.

Only thing im finding is that after a while im getting a haze in the room, doesnt smell smokey, hasnt set off the carbon monoxide detector.

Is this normal for a "new" fire ie is it the paint from the fire itself burning off.?

Yep, totally normal on a new stove as the paint cures, it may take a few fires to get rid of the smell. It's just that you have been increasing the heat output and hence the hotter the fire the more it's curing.:D Just open the windows and it will clear after the stove is up to a nice hot temp.
Looking forward to the pictures:D

Stove Fan:)

moy83

Hi folks I want to put a solid fuel stove in the parents house but there is no chimney in place .
I want to bring a meter of single wall flue up from the top of the stove (to throw a bit more heat out) then turn it out through cavity wall with a 45 degree bend into a twinwall flu with an adaptor .
The fella in the shop told me to spray the adaptor black to match the single wall flu and that it would look fine in the room but i put it together for a dry run and i think the 45 bend going into the adaptor will look very butch where it goes through the wall on the inside .
Is there any tidy way to have just one sized flu showing on the inside of the wall ? Thanks in advance for any help

Stove Fan

moy83 wrote: »

Hi folks I want to put a solid fuel stove in the parents house but there is no chimney in place .
I want to bring a meter of single wall flue up from the top of the stove (to throw a bit more heat out) then turn it out through cavity wall with a 45 degree bend into a twinwall flu with an adaptor .
The fella in the shop told me to spray the adaptor black to match the single wall flu and that it would look fine in the room but i put it together for a dry run and i think the 45 bend going into the adaptor will look very butch where it goes through the wall on the inside .
Is there any tidy way to have just one sized flu showing on the inside of the wall ? Thanks in advance for any help

Unfortunately not really, but you can get a taper fitting to make it look better internally, but really for the vertical flue section, some tapered adapters are short though. You would have single wall length, 45degree elbow, short tapered fitting. (This tapered fitting is twinwall but joins single wall pipe to twinwall) This tapered adapter would be installed after the 45degree bend but before going through the wall.
It depends if your manufacturer makes one as you can't just use any other manufacturer unless the joining method is compatible:(
The tapered adapters look something like this.
http://www.fluesystems.com/shop/MD_Plus_150mm_Adaptors.html
http://www.stovecentre.ie/category.php?id_category=176&n=20&orderby=name&orderway=desc
Basically a length of pipe that increases from the single walled flue to the twinwall flue rather than a step.

Stove Fan:)

moy83

Stove Fan wrote: »

Unfortunately not really, but you can get a taper fitting to make it look better internally, but really for the vertical flue section, some tapered adapters are short though. You would have single wall length, 45degree elbow, short tapered fitting. (This tapered fitting is twinwall but joins single wall pipe to twinwall) This tapered adapter would be installed after the 45degree bend but before going through the wall.
It depends if your manufacturer makes one as you can't just use any other manufacturer unless the joining method is compatible:(
The tapered adapters look something like this.
http://www.fluesystems.com/shop/MD_Plus_150mm_Adaptors.html
http://www.stovecentre.ie/category.php?id_category=176&n=20&orderby=name&orderway=desc
Basically a length of pipe that increases from the single walled flue to the twinwall flue rather than a step.

Stove Fan:)

Thanks Stove Fan ,its the stanley oisin stove . The tapered flu would be a bit of an improvement , but still i think its not brilliant to look at . Ill check tomorrow if they have tapered adapters and twin wall flue in the black but I dont think they do .
Its also an option to go through the ceiling and out the roof as there is only about 3ft between the bottom of the ceiling and the slates , would the adapter still have to be seen under the ceiling or is there a neater way if I go straight up ? Thanks

Stove Fan

moy83 wrote: »

Thanks Stove Fan ,its the stanley oisin stove . The tapered flu would be a bit of an improvement , but still i think its not brilliant to look at . Ill check tomorrow if they have tapered adapters and twin wall flue in the black but I dont think they do .
Its also an option to go through the ceiling and out the roof as there is only about 3ft between the bottom of the ceiling and the slates , would the adapter still have to be seen under the ceiling or is there a neater way if I go straight up ? Thanks

Yes unfortunately the adapter would have to be seen below the ceiling. It's usual to have 1.5 metres max length of singlewall and then adapter into twinwall. It would look neater going vertical though.
You can paint it black though as you know.

Most installers now though in the UK run the twinwall directly off the stove as then the fluepipe can be nearer to the wall. A singlewall 5 inch fluepipe needs to be 3 times the diameter away (15 inches) from a flammable wall. ie plasterboard etc. unless heat shielded or non flammable.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/flue-distance-to-combustibles.html

Stove Fan:)

moy83

Thanks Stove Fan after looking at it again this morning I'm going to go through the ceiling and roof .
Will the twin walled flue need to be boxed when going through the attic (bout 3ft) or is it safe to leave it exposed ? Thanks again